Posts Tagged ‘Zinfandel’

From Grape to Glass: The Journey

February 23, 2012

That a grape undergoes a transformative journey en route to its incarnation as a bottle of wine is reasonably self-evident; wine could of course not be possible without said journey taking place.

But in fact, there is more than meets the eye afoot, and more than one journey underway.

The original magic of the vine-to-wine transubstantiation resides in the overlapping concentrics of history. A vineyard is a journey unto itself; soil to seed, plant to fruit; year in and year out, the ever-deepening Samsaric encirculation of life, the poetry of the perennial:

The vineyards crews
don’t dare mention drought.
The rain is going to come this weekend.

Already I have seen
three snowflakes prancing lightly
like young reindeer in the air.

Back from holidays, they start in
on the pruning of the slopes, repeating
mantras to their dogs, laughing in Spanish.

From the gun club by the quarry
comes the shots
that we all hear on a delay.

We amaze ourselves, reminded
that the stars we beg to weep
have died already.

There is nowhere
for the last year to go,
but to the ground.

Already
every day
is growing larger.

Spindling out from this ever-in-rotation  inner agrarian hub, like spokes of some great metaphysical wheel, are the revelations of vintage; each season a season of imagination, impossibility, and faith.; new journeys all; from the grape, to the glass.

This is what we taste when we taste honest and authentic wine; the history of the vineyard, the history of the harvest, the histories of the living and the dead, the biology of sweet human endeavor, in forever soulful congress with the earth, with the sky, with the gods.

The  Old World. The New World.

The Journey.

(The following film short is a pictorial chronicle of a grape’s journey from vineyard to bottle, featuring Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, set to the music of Antonín Dvořák’s ”From The New World” symphony; a work composed back in the era when Geyserville’s “Old Patch” was just being planted.)

Zin Monk

February 17, 2012

As today is the day the world mourns the anniversary of the passing of the great Thelonious Monk, I want to talk about Monk.

And because I work for, and write for, Ridge Vineyards, I want to talk about zinfandel.

There was, some months back, the temporary electrification of the interwebosphere over the question of zinfandel’s identity.

Was it — as the low-brow funky, populist sweaty, good-timin’ egalitarian, country mouse side would have it — the people’s grape? Approachable, affable, not puttin’ on airs? Good for a laugh, great to have at a party, a friend to everyone?

Or is it — as the high-brow uptown, austere elitist , uptight classist, city mouse side would have it — a noble grape? Serious, important, elusive, complex? Not for everyone?

The debate was, in all honesty, surprisingly intense; each side battling for the soul of the grape.

To which I say, Thelonious Monk!

Why? Because you can be deadly serious about creating that which is, at heart, fun.

There is, in jazz, no musician, no composer, no performer, more mysterious, elusive, intense, and noble than Thelonious Monk. Nor are there melodies more playful, more delightful, more perfect.

Monk was deadly serious about creating that which is, at heart, fun. His songs swing, they bounce, they prance about light as air, then collapse in the grass, laughing their little heads off.

And this is Ridge. Forgive me my bias, but to my mind, there is no producer more devoted, more meditative, more intense, more serious, about the production of zinfandel than Ridge.

And again forgive me my bias, but to my mind, there are also no zinfandels more buoyant, more lively, more playful, more magic, more fun, than the zinfandels Ridge produces.

Ridge is the Monk of Zin. Zin is the Monk of Ridge.

Who Likes Zinfandel? Google Likes Zinfandel!

January 27, 2012

Who likes Zinfandel? Google likes Zinfandel!

So much so that Google & ZAP got together to stage an event for Google’s Wine Tasting Club (yes, they have a Wine Club!) in advance of the big annual ZAP event.

And who was there? Ridge was there!

GoogleZap!

GoogleZap!

 I yell, you yell
we all yell for Zinfandel!

ZAP!

January 27, 2012

That’s right folks, ZAP! Not Shazam, not Wonder Twin Powers Activate (form of an Ah So, shape of a Zinfandel bottle!), but ZAP!

Not familiar? ‘Tis an acronymn, and it stands for Zinfandel Advocates & Producers. From their Mission Statement:

ZAP and its members revel in Zinfandel’s mysterious history and its evolving story fuels the embers of discovery, entrepreneurship and agriculture that are truly American. ZAP is the only organization that has established and provided funding for education and research to study the history, genetics and propagation of a wine varietal to ensure its future. ZAP and its members not only enjoy growing and drinking Zinfandel, but they also value its character and its heritage.

Meaning, in short, these folks LOVE Zinfandel.

Chances are, if you’re reading this blog, you’re probably already aware of ZAP, and quite possibly, you’ve actually attended their legendary Zinfandel Festival.

We’re huge supporters, and we participate every year. The highlight of the lovefest is of course the Grand Tasting. This is essentially Tantric Oenophilia.

We’re believers, and accordingly, we like to bring a really special roster of wines every year to share at the Grand Tasting. This year is no different. Dig the list:

1. 2009 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel –

2. 2009 Lytton Estate Zinfandel –

3. 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel –

4. 2010 East Bench Zinfandel –

5. 2010 Geyserville – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

6. 2010 Lytton Springs – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

7. 2010 Lytton Estate Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

8. 2010 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

As is hopefully evident, we like to put on a show. Come see us. We’ve got lovely wine to pour for you.

“Holy Ah So Wineman, it’s Zinfandel!”

 

The Old School Is New Again …

January 26, 2012

You know it’s coming, yet somehow you won’t admit it to yourself. It’s inevitable, of course, but it’s impossible survive the days if you’re in conscious embracement of the facts. Somehow, we have to psychically suspend our realities in order to keep on keepin’ on. But all things must pass.

The news came yesterday. They’d pulled it.

The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School was removed from the website. It was over.

Fortunately, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School ain’t too far down the road!

I’ll be sure to let you know when it’s released, but in the meantime, here are some tasting notes, just to keep you going through these tough times …

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School

As you may or may not know, the Old School designation is actually part of our Geyserville estate, but as it’s a group of vines that traditionally provide fruit that ripens to a greater degree of intensity, the juice is traditionally bottled separately in small amounts under the Old School name, and released as a special winery-only offering.

Stylistically, because of the selection criteria, the Old School favors a flavor profile that can run the gamut from sweet in character (a ripe quality that presents the illusion of sweetness without any actual real and significant amount of residual sugar) to actual sweetness (featuring actual residual sugar).

The 2009 is definitely of the former ilk; while the wine is certainly rich and intensely flavored and fruit-driven, a combination of notable water-stress and early ripening during the growing season, and an aggressive and disciplined selection process at the winery (made possible courtesy of a new receiving and sorting system), have made for a wine of surprising integrity and balance.

In addition to the voluptuousness of the fruit and the generosity of the bouquet, there are strong hints of that classic Geyserville spiciness that creep into the flavor profile at just the right moments. These notes primarily come courtesy of the vineyard-blend model deployed for the assemblage of this wine; the zinfandel (at 78%) is structurally rounded out and enhanced by the inclusion of carignane and petit sirah, two classic “mixed blacks” that also form the architectural backbone of the Geyserville.  

The 2007 Old School was one of our top-selling winery-only wines last year, and while it was a sweeter, riper rendition than the 2009, I think the ’09 is poised to not only keep the ’07 fans very happy, but also accrue a whole new set of believers as well. It’s got the fruit for the ’07 set, but it’s also got the complexity, structure, and spice that should win over some converts who may not normally find themselves on the ripe side of life.

If I may say so, it’s a perfect February wine; it’s got Valentine’s Day written all over it …

Picking Lytton West: The Movie!

September 29, 2011

My time experiencing #Harvest2011 up at Lytton Springs this past weekend concluded with an extraordinary opportunity; the chance to tag along with the vineyard teams as they picked at Lytton West!

My phone started ringing at about 5:30am. It was Will Thomas, viticulturist at Lytton, rousting me out. In 15 minutes, I was outside the hotel, shrouded in the damp morning mist, coffee cup in hand, awaiting the arrival of his truck. He pulled up, and I got in. In the dim light, he pointed out on his vineyard map the blocks getting picked that morning: Block 33 (Carignane) and Block 45 (Zinfandel).

We drove past the Lytton Springs winery, turned off the main road, and began to wind through the vineyards. We pulled up and stopped at what I can best describe as a compound of sorts; the epicenter of the vineyard crew’s lives during the harvest, where they eat and sleep, and the jumping-off point for a new morning’s picking.

When we got to the blocks to be picked, Will hit the ground at a quick pace, prowling the rows like a hungrily alert panther, eyes darting this way and that, seeing all.

Acutely aware of my interloper/outside status, I went off on my own as soon as possible, in hopes of both observing unawares, and staying out of everyone’s way. Picking began in the Carignane block.

It was a  fantastically beautiful morning, and dewdrops shivered in anticipation of the sun’s light beginning to seep into the vinerows.

If you’ve never seen a vineyard crew at work, it’s quite remarkable. You’d be utterly and completely astonished at how rapidly they work. I’ve experienced it countless times, and I am still flabbergasted every time. Almost before it started, it was over. Block 33 was picked.

And the sun had barely crested the hills.

I got back into the truck with Will, and we drove to the next block; zinfandel.

And suddenly again, with a rapidity impossible to describe, it was over. Block 45 had been harvested.

For the crew, their day was over, but for David Gates (Vice President, Vineyard Operations) and Will Thomas, the day was only just beginning. The math, science, and technology of harvest is a whole other game altogether, and it begins with entering vital information into our systems; varietal, block, tonnage, etc. Without this info coming in on time, the winery can’t be prepared for the arrival of the fruit. David and Will put their heads together, and did the math.

When Will finally dropped me off back at my hotel, I was tired. Not physically tired (after all, I hadn’t actually been picking!), not sleep-deprived tired (5:30am isn’t all that bad after all!), but brain-tired; exhausted by all I’d witnessed, and weighted down by all I’d learned. I felt wonderful!

My challenge then was to try and assemble all the raw photographic material I’d collected into something that would do justice to the experience, but as I sifted through it all, I found it nearly impossible to fully create anything that could accurately express my admiration for our team’s performance in the vineyards; they work so extraordinarily hard, pick so masterfully clean, and consistently deliver such outstanding fruit. I was at a loss. So I did very little. I simply strung together my series of mini-vids, and let them speak for themselves. I hope you enjoy this!

To drink a Ridge wine has always been, for me, an intensely experiential event; my future experience of our wines has been immeasurably enhanced by my time in the vineyards. I offer my sincere gratitude for having been granted the opportunity. To all on the crews, to Will, and to David Gates, I say thank you!

10 Questions with Paul Draper: #5!

August 19, 2011

The question seems almost inevitable, and today Paul addresses it; the question of alcohol levels in zinfandel. Enjoy Q & A # 5 in our special ten-question series with Paul Draper!

5-    Your Zinfandel based wines such as Geyserville and Lytton Springs have low alcohol levels as compared to other wines made with Zinfandel. Why is it so and how can they age so gracefully for so many years?

 Zinfandel must be grown in warmer climates like Napa, Sonoma or Paso Robles to develop the fruit flavors that give it its character.  As with the over-ripe Cabernets of Napa today, Zinfandel only needs to be fully ripe, not over-ripe, to produce the most complex, age-worthy wines.  It does ripen quickly if days of very warm temperatures come during harvest; however, if you are sampling carefully and are determined not to make over-ripe wines, that can usually be avoided.  We have worked with over fifty old-vine Zinfandel vineyards over the last forty years.  The Geyserville we first made in 1966 and it has proven to be one of the most consistently fine wines. Likewise we first made the Lytton Springs in 1972 and it has rivaled the Geyserville in its consistency of quality and ageability. We took over the Geyserville vineyard in 1990 and purchased Lytton Springs in 1991 because of the quality of those terroirs.  All but a few of the others were dropped after a year or after ten years.  These wines come from particularly great sites.

***Do you have a question for Paul? Let us know! wine@ridgewine.com***

(“10 Questions for Paul Draper” questions composed by Rodrigo Mainardi of Mistral, Brazlian Distributor for Ridge Vineyards)

Paul Draper grew up on an eighty-acre farm in the Chicago suburb of Barrington. After attending the Choate School and receiving a degree in philosophy from Stanford University, he lived for two years in northern Italy. Later he attended the University of Paris and traveled extensively in France, gaining practical experience in traditional winemaking. In the mid-sixties, with a close friend, he set up a small winery in the coast range of Chile and produced several vintages of cabernet sauvignon. He joined Ridge Vineyards in 1969, and presently resides atop Monte Bello Ridge with his wife Maureen and daughter Caitlin. He is known for his crafting of fine cabernets and chardonnays from the Monte Bello estate vineyards, and as a pioneer in the production of long-lived, complex zinfandels.

Monte Bello Calling …

June 20, 2011

GREAT article today from Geoff Last (a longtime Calgary wine merchant and writer, and a regular contributor to City Palate magazine and other publications) about Zinfandel entitled “Edgy Zinfandel Rocks On.”

Why do I like this article so much? Because it starts like this, “If I were to cast California Zinfandel as a rock band, I might equate it to a group like the Clash …”

Nice!

Plus, Mr. Last includes a very fine review of our East Bench offering, and also writes lines like, “In my quarter of a century in the wine business, I have never had a bad wine from Ridge …”

But mainly, I like this article because it mentions us and The Clash together.

 Which makes it a punky kind of day for Ridge! Because this article comes right on the heels of a FANTASTIC tweet that came across the wires today from our good friend Wayne at the very excellent wine blog A Long Pour:

 wkelterer: Fugazi is the @RidgeVineyards of indie rock. Still the coolest thing out there after all these years of inspiring others!

Original Tweet: http://twitter.com/wkelterer/statuses/82681815260864512

Nice! Ridge Vineyards, The Clash, Fugazi, and You.

The Seriousness of Zinfandel?

February 4, 2011

You may have read Jon Bonne’s recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle entitled “Is Zinfandel a serious wine?” If you did (or even if you didn’t!), you may have noticed that this article sparked a rather fierce debate in the aftermath of its publication; it seems the topic touched quite a collective nerve! If you didn’t see the original article, you can click here to read it.

I watched most of the arguments from the sidelines, content to enjoy all the kind words about Ridge Zinfandel that cropped up in the various conversations. And thanks to all for that!

But I did wade into one thread, and with great pleasure, as it meant I was among the comments following an article by Steve Heimoff. If you’ve read anything by Steve, particularly on his blog, you’ll know he has a fantastic knack for not only provoking great responses, but attracting an astonishing caliber of respondents. No disrespect intended to Steve, but there are times when reading the comment feed is almost more instructive than reading the original article!

Anyhow, Steve took on the topic of Zinfandel’s seriousness, and I eventually threw my rhetorical hat into the ring. I reprint my initial response below, but I encourage you to visit Steve’s site and read both his posting, and the 40+ comments that followed. You can find it all here:

http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2011/01/31/is-zinfandel-a-serious-wine/comment-page-1/#comment-166960

As to my original comment, here ’tis:

I wonder if I might address the question of serious vs. fun (for lack of a better way to frame the debate as it seems to be shaping up) by positing that one can be quite serious about one’s fun. I find that both Ridge, and Zinfandel, have fascinating histories specifically because of the way they have historically lived at some unique juncture point of high and low brow tendencies; when they succeed, they perform a marvelous integration of funk and sophistication, head and heart, technique and instinct.

Many if not all of our greatest artists throughout history were deadly serious about producing that which would ideally be entertaining to us; comedians who rehearsed jokes for 10 hours a day, composers who brought themselves to the brink of exhaustion at the piano, painters who drove themselves to the edge of madness at the canvas, writers who labored over every punctuation mark in every poem. As recipients of their artistry and dedication, we revel in the sensual enjoyment of their creations, be they light or heavy, fun or serious, playful or ponderous.

The point being, one can be serious about making a zinfandel that is flat out fun to drink. I am a proud employee of Ridge Vineyards because I think that’s exactly what Ridge does, and it’s something I wanted to be a part of. And we are certainly not alone in doing this. All the accolades, devotions, and praises evident in this comment feed alone attest to it. Cheers to zinfandel, and cheers, as always, to Steve for producing such effectively provocative writing. It’s serious work he does, but it’s alot of fun to read!

Ridge In The Recent News!

January 18, 2011

I do my best to generate “original content” on this blog with as much frequency as I can muster, but every once in a while, I come across something out there in the world beyond my mountain that I just really want to share; in the past week or so, three such articles have appeared, and I would very much love to share them with you:

The first is a fantastic article in the Wall Street Journal (WSJ.com) by Jay McInerney on Zinfandel; my favorite part? It’s where Mr. McInerney spills the beans (spills the grapes?) that he served Ridge Geyserville at his wedding! You can find the article here. Check it out, it’s a great read, and it’s great history.

The second is an article with an absolute genius title:   “The “Somewhere-ness” of California’s Santa Cruz Mountains.” Love it!  This is also a great bit of history, and an excellent opportunity to learn a bit more about our beautiful and special region. You can find the article here.

The third is from a great blog called “Matching Food and Wine”; certainly a deliciously vital topic, and the blog’s author, Fiona Beckett, does a great job with the subject at hand. The title of the article in question is: “What to match with the world’s best Bordeaux-style reds.” Ridge is of course happy to be included under such a banner, and the particular reference is an enticing one:

Some specific great recent matches include Ridge Monte Bello 1999 with a superb Cote de Boeuf cooked by Racine, Chef Patron, Henry Harris and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1982 with roast Pauillac Lamb (Blanche du Massif Central) at a private dinner party in Bordeaux.

You can find the full post here.


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