Posts Tagged ‘Winemaking’

#Harvest2012: Pump It Up!

October 14, 2012

I work at Monte Bello. Accordingly, much of my material for this blog has, as its point-of-origin, the mountain.

That said, my colleagues to the north — at Lytton Springs — are wonderful about feeding me images, videos, and stories.

Given that the teachers/tutors/mentors I am most regularly in contact with, however, are at Monte Bello, the resulting peculiarity is that I am often relying on Monte Bello talent to helps expand on Lytton Springs content!

So this time around, I’m going to flip the paradigm; I’m going to share some Monte Bello content, with some Lytton Springs comment!

The subject of “pump-overs” came up recently on our Facebook page, and in the interest of expanding on the topic, here’s a bit of perspective from John Olney (our Lytton Springs winemaker), followed by a quick and hopefully informative bit of video footage of a pump-over in action at Monte Bello.

From John:

With few exceptions, all grape juice is clear. All the color and structure in a red wine comes from the grapes and seeds. Therefore, to make red wine, the clear juice must make contact, or macerate, with the skins and seeds. To accomplish this, we carry out pump-overs twice daily. During a pump-over, the juice is pumped from the bottom of the tank over the floating cap of skins and seeds above.

A pump-over serves two functions:

*First, it is the primary means by which phenolic compounds are extracted from the skins and seeds. Phenolic compounds include all those components of color, tannin, and aroma that make red wine red wine.

*Second, pump-overs introduce oxygen – critical to the survival and function of the yeast – into the fermenting must.

Additionally, pump-overs help regulate the temperature of the fermentation by mixing the cooler juice at the bottom of the tank with the cap of skins above where heat is trapped and builds up.

Video of a pump-over in action:



Sam Howles-Banerji began his tenure at Ridge Vineyards as a Harvest Intern. He is now a treasured full-time member of the Monte Bello Retail Sales & Hospitality Staff …

you can take the intern out of the winery

… and t is to Sam we owe a debt of gratitude for the great imagery in this post (and to Eric Baugher, Shun Ishikubo, and the whole Monte Bello winemaking team!).

In addition to the video footage above, dig this remarkable compendium of pump-over pics:

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#Harvest2012.

Feel it.

From Grape to Glass: The Journey

February 23, 2012

That a grape undergoes a transformative journey en route to its incarnation as a bottle of wine is reasonably self-evident; wine could of course not be possible without said journey taking place.

But in fact, there is more than meets the eye afoot, and more than one journey underway.

The original magic of the vine-to-wine transubstantiation resides in the overlapping concentrics of history. A vineyard is a journey unto itself; soil to seed, plant to fruit; year in and year out, the ever-deepening Samsaric encirculation of life, the poetry of the perennial:

The vineyards crews
don’t dare mention drought.
The rain is going to come this weekend.

Already I have seen
three snowflakes prancing lightly
like young reindeer in the air.

Back from holidays, they start in
on the pruning of the slopes, repeating
mantras to their dogs, laughing in Spanish.

From the gun club by the quarry
comes the shots
that we all hear on a delay.

We amaze ourselves, reminded
that the stars we beg to weep
have died already.

There is nowhere
for the last year to go,
but to the ground.

Already
every day
is growing larger.

Spindling out from this ever-in-rotation  inner agrarian hub, like spokes of some great metaphysical wheel, are the revelations of vintage; each season a season of imagination, impossibility, and faith.; new journeys all; from the grape, to the glass.

This is what we taste when we taste honest and authentic wine; the history of the vineyard, the history of the harvest, the histories of the living and the dead, the biology of sweet human endeavor, in forever soulful congress with the earth, with the sky, with the gods.

The  Old World. The New World.

The Journey.

(The following film short is a pictorial chronicle of a grape’s journey from vineyard to bottle, featuring Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, set to the music of Antonín Dvořák’s ”From The New World” symphony; a work composed back in the era when Geyserville’s “Old Patch” was just being planted.)


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