Posts Tagged ‘viognier’

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 22, 2012

I am an admittedly idiosyncratic traditionalist, in that I am rarely much for traditional traditions, but am conversely rather boffo for my own rather less-than-traditional iterations thereof; which makes it all the more of a personal revolution in the offing that I am posting these words today.

This is, of course, the rambling preambling to the preamble of my annual “Things I’m Thankful For” post; which I traditionally, per the terms of my own tradition, post on the 23rd of November. Which I was dead on track for doing again this year. Except here it is, Thanksgiving, and I’m feeling all thankful-laden, and it simply feels odd not to commit these lines to the blog-o-web on this most gratitudinous of days. Yet it’s the 22nd, a proposition that defies convention. But blast it all, tradition be damned, what? On with the show! Pip Pip!

When I ponder the word Thankful, I see my wife’s face. As I do when I ponder the other following words:

Fortunate, Blessed, and Grateful.

These are of course self-referential. When I simply ponder her, as opposed to how I feel when I consider the blessing upon me that is she, these then are some of the words that come to mind:

Wise, Beautiful, Magical, Powerful, Amazing, Fragile, Astounding, Tender, Perfect, and Love.

I am so thankful for my wife. My friend, my lover, my partner, my wife. I am so thankful for my wife. One can define the almighty in whatever ways one wishes, of course; but if the definition of God has something to do with that which gives life to life, that which governs all, that foundational being that is the alpha and omega of all things, then she has dominion over all my world. She is the Bodhisattva come to help me, the Savior come to save me, the God come to raise me. I am so thankful for my wife.

And I am so thankful for my daughter, before whom I am a positively helpless puddle of mush. What hasn’t this small, beautiful creature given to me? There is no shade of blue in the sky, no streak of green in the sea, that she has not alerted me to. No whisper of wind in the night, no chirp of bird in the day, that she has not called my ears toward. There is no tear duct in my eye she has not drained of its feeling, no cavity of my heart that she has not filled. What hue of autumn leaf, what scent of springtime blossom, has she not drawn me to? What a thing, to have a daughter! I am so thankful for my daughter.

For my wife, and my daughter, I am so thankful. A Love Supreme.

Which reminds me that I am also distinctly grateful for John Coltrane.

And wine glass sizes drawn in fractions. Like 19.75 oz. glasses.

And the wines that inhabit them.

Like, perhaps, the 1981 Monte Bello, which tasted so fine just this past Sunday.

Which would also taste so fine in, for example, a flat-bottom glass.

I am so thankful for people who drink red wine from flat-bottom glasses.

And grandparents. There is no insanity like the insanity of grandparents. That my little family of three – Papa Bear, Mama Bear, Baby Bear – has two hearty and hale sets of grandparents, is a blessing beyond compare. To watch our little girl in their blissful company is a gift unimaginable. I am so thankful for our parents; grandparents to our wonderful daughter. I am so thankful for this.

As I am for the knoll at Monte Bello. Such a place to stand and contemplate the void, to be temporarily one with the ancestors staring at the walls and seeing truth.

I am thankful for poetry, and the wines that have, through time, lubricated its fragile and complex gears.

Like, for example, the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, which tasted so fine just … yesterday.

There are few moments greater than the moment when your father and your wife bring to their respective lips the wine you have poured for them. I am thankful for these moments.

I am thankful for Haiku.

I am thankful for people who do not ask me to throw away their chewing gum upon their arrival at the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

In fact, I am thankful for people who do not chew gum.

I am thankful for wooden canes, and limping through vine rows relying on one.

I am thankful for Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson. If you’ve ever come to Monte Bello, and accordingly felt a bit of magic enter your soul and there take up permanent residence, there to be called upon whenever your worry and care threaten to overwhelm you in the pursuit of your conventional happinesses, it is likely because you were moved by Amy and/or Sam and/or Kirsten. They are in the practice of providing memories that will last forever, and they are rather excellent at this endeavor. They have given me so much to be thankful for, and are to me canonical saints in the pantheon of Monte Bello magic.

I am thankful for the word canonical.

And the word Vertical. And the thing that is, in winespeak, a Vertical.

And the Estate Cabernet Vertical, which will not be available for much longer. I am thankful it is still available, because the 2004 Estate Cabernet, is, in particular, one of the best wines I’ve ever had. It was also one of my first loves upon joining the family at Ridge, and in it, I taste my good fortune.

I am thankful for P.G. Wodehouse, for having given to the world Jeeves and Bertie Wooster, of whose exploits with the cow-creamer, last night, were so delightful to read.

I am thankful that I do not believe in decent-tasting “entry-level” wines costing $10/bottle, any more than I believe in decent-sounding “entry-level” Telecasters costing $100.

I am thankful for windows that lock and unlock with ease.

I am thankful for wines that taste especially fine whilst standing at windows gazing out at trees in autumn. Like the 1992 Monte Bello, which, out of a 375ml bottle, tastes especially fine whilst standing at a window (open or closed, whatever, it’s easy to lock and unlock) gazing out at a tree in autumn.

I am thankful for candles.

I am thankful for bow-ties, which, perhaps come the New Year, I shall resolve to wear more of.

I am thankful for champys, and the people who use the term.

And for the people who drink champys.

I am thankful for champys.

And Bodhisattvas.

I am thankful that Ridge has found a place in its heart to place me.

I am thankful that, in lieu of a manpurse, I wear sportcoats.

I am thankful for everyone who comes to Monte Bello in the summertime, and doesn’t comment of the fact that I am wearing a sportcoat.

I am thankful for Aaron, Antonio, Barry, Emma, Jane, Jenny, Karen, Kathryn, Kim, Lori, Michael, Nancy, Peter, Samantha, Sonja, and Tara. Because Hospitality is holy, and they are the true keepers of the faith. The foundational saints. The canonical hosts. To truly “host” a guest is an essential act of love, compassion, empathy, sympathy, faith, and kindness. I am thankful for these wonderful human beings, and for the generosity of spirit they so consistently offer.

I am thankful for the XTC song “Dear God.”

I am thankful that the new 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch is such an absolutely excellent contribution to the Mazzoni canon.

I am thankful for high-quality buff cloths, and the wine hosts that know how to use them.

I am thankful for ritual, and what it teaches us, and I am thankful that the world of wine is so ritualized.

I am thankful for people who, when confronted by those who know a bit more than themselves about something, think first, “Wonderful!” as opposed to “Snob!”

I am thankful that I know so little, because I look so forward to learning.

I am thankful that a great deal of my “work” at Ridge is “learning” more about wine.

Learning more about, for example, the 2007 Monte Bello. For reasons soon to be revealed!

I am thankful for things that are soon to be revealed, as I do not enjoy surprises or secrets, though I am thankful for them. Thankful that they offer the opportunity for revelation.

I am thankful for Son House.

I am thankful for anyone who can figure out a way to work wine into a tattoo without looking like a rather foolish sort.

I am thankful for Syrah co-fermented with Viognier.

I am thankful that part of my “job” at Ridge involves sitting at table with people like Kathy and Ingrid, and “working” on food & wine pairings.

I am thankful that I very often have occasion, while at work at Ridge, to deploy the term “culinarily companionable.”

I am thankful that I get to write this blog. Not only is it a still-very-overwhelming honor, but it also allows me to make up a great many words; a great many made-up words that, when discovered and subsequently called out as being made-up, become the springboard for me to deliver my patented lecture on the true value of language and its purposes. Which no one needs to hear anymore.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for trumpet mutes, and the jazz players who deploy them.

I am thankful that Ridge makes wine like Thelonious Monk made chords.

I am thankful that Sumano’s bakery makes Watsonville Sourdough.

I am thankful for drinking wine, eating bread and cheese, and riding ferries.

I am thankful that Bellwether Farms makes San Andreas. And I am thankful for being able to taste it while sipping on 1978 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for harvest videos, and the opportunity to make them.

I am thankful for #Harvest2012.

I am thankful that I do not dream in hashtags.

I am thankful that if one Googles “Generation X Characteristics,” the very first entry that appears lists the following:

• Cynical

• Skeptical

• Independent

• Problem-solvers/resourceful

• Defy Authority

• Reality driven

• Distaste “touchy feely”

• Technology Competent

• Resist Hierarchy

• Multitasker

I am thankful that I still manage to rarely use the word “Google” as a verb.

I am thankful for walking cities.

I feel thankful when I go walking in a city, and the person I am walking with says, “My, that looks like a nice wine shop!”

I am thankful for Christopher Robin, Winnie the Pooh, and all the denizens of the Hundred-Acre Wood.

I am thankful for the poet Sharon Olds, because she writes about woman things in ways that can truly move a man.

I am thankful that as soon as we were installed in our little post-birth “hotel” at the hospital, my very exhausted and triumphantly beautiful wife called for Cava and Monte Bello.

I am thankful that when my wife calls for champys, she calls for Coupe glasses.

I am thankful for coupe glasses.

I am thankful for trains.

I am thankful for movies made before 1970.

I am thankful for music made before 1980.

I am thankful for wine made before 1990.

I am thankful for balsamic vinegar made before 2000.

I am thankful for books made before 2010.

I am thankful for wonderful exceptions to the above.

I am thankful for wine poured before I wrote “I am thankful for wine poured …,” like, for example, any of our Syrah/Grenache blends.

I am currently thankful for the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache, and I am previously grateful for all the other vintages.

I am thankful that my daughter just announced that her Grandpa “stinks like Thanksgiving.”

I am thankful that some people still roller skate.

I am thankful for limousine drivers that do not park in spaces reserved for the disabled.

I am thankful for wine drinkers that are not drunkards.

I am thankful that calm, clear-headed, self-possessed, serious, alert, concerned, cool, exacting, rigorous, thoughtful, vigilant, and pure are all synonyms for “sober.”

I am thankful that, while it’s today in the news that it’s going to happen, Nikki Sixx’s “Heroin Diaries” is not yet, in fact, a Broadway Musical.

I am thankful that, for the fourth year in a row, I have the opportunity to praise Haig’s Hummus. I am thankful for Haig’s Hummus. And I am thankful for the way Haig’s Hummus tastes when it’s in your mouth, wrapped up in a big balloon-size swallow of Ridge chardonnay.

I am thankful for Ridge Chardonnay. Especially the 2010 Monte Bello Chardonnay, which, when released, will F%*&KIN blow your mind.

I am thankful for %*&.

I am thankful that we have a President who likes wine.

I am thankful for Zen.

I am thankful for the Monterey Bay, and how it makes Carignane taste. Especially Ridge Carignane. Which always tastes so nice, but tastes especially nice when sipped next to Monterey Bay.

I am thankful for John Olney, and I am thankful for the Carignane that he makes.

I am thankful for everyone at Lytton Springs, and for the opportunity to make this appreciation public. I am especially thankful for my counterpart Sandy Johnson, because her greatness humbles me daily, and it is good to be humbled. And I am thankful for her friendship, because it is good to have friends. And I am thankful for her colleagues that I get to, albeit infrequently, work with, namely Jason and Eliot. I wish I got to see them more, because I am always thankful for the opportunity. And it’s good to be thankful.

I am thankful that I rarely see myself in the mirror making air quotes.

I am thankful for Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney, David Gates, Kyle Theriot, Will Thomas, Shun Ishikubo, and Muiris Griffin, for the absurdity of how much they’ve taught me, and how patient they’ve been with me.

I am thankful for when Petit Verdot gets ripe. Because if swampy and funky can become fragrant and floral, then beauty is forever possible.

I am thankful for every moment there is not violence.

I am thankful for funny instructions on fading paper, push-pinned to dirty corkboard, that say things like, “If  you see a mountain lion, don’t bend over,” because who bends over when they see a mountain lion? And I am thankful that this is based on a true story.

I am thankful for true stories. And made up ones as well.

I am thankful for the opportunity to read poems that were written by people who were drinking wine while they were writing.

I am thankful to Ryan Moore, because he is my boss, and he seems to kind of like me. Which really feels good.

And I am thankful that the fates and powers that blessed Ryan with a wonderful wife have now blessed him with a beautiful, wonderful child, because I am very happy for him, and it’s good to be happy for other people.

I am also happy for myself, and am thankful that I have been blessed with a wonderful wife and a beautiful, wonderful child.

I am thankful that the obvious similarities between myself and my boss obviously continue.

I am thankful for the days when my boss calls and says things like, “Have you tasted the 2007 Dynamite Hill recently?” And I say, “No.” And he says, “Can you pull a bottle and taste it, and tell me what you think?” And I say, “Yes, boss.”

I am thankful for, in no particular order: Love, and the Lack of Hate.

Also for Charlie Christian, Sonny Rollins, Bud Powell, Lester Young, Bill Evans, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Django Reinhardt, Miles Davis, Wes Montgomery, Zoot Sims, and Grant Green.

I am thankful that Duke Ellington is the Monte Bello of Jazz, and that Monte Bello is the Duke Ellington of Wine.

I am thankful for what localism teaches us about being peaceful with one another.

I am thankful that wine from our estates makes people feel peaceful.

I am thankful for peace.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for the certainty that this list will never end, and that, when confronted with all the wonderful things I’ve inadvertently omitted from this iteration of this list, I will have another opportunity at some future time to make amends.

I am thankful for ancient Mountains-and-Rivers Poetry.

I am thankful that I work on a mountain.

I am thankful to Ridge, for forever altering my life in momentous ways I could have never imagined, for, above all else, affording me the means to support my family.

I am thankful to Ridge for trusting me to speak for Ridge.

I am thankful for Merlot.

I am thankful for pine cones.

I am thankful for rattlesnakes, and the ones that don’t bite me.

I am thankful to Penske, for renting me the truck that carried me from New York to California, for helping to prove in yet one more way that Northern California is indeed the promised land, for stopping when I needed it to stop, at that truck stop where I first got on the phone with Nicole and inaugurated the process that would eventually culminate in my being hired by Ridge, and for starting again when it was time to start driving again to California.

I am thankful for my parents. And your parents.

I am thankful for anyone who buys a fine bottle of wine for their parents.

I am thankful for parents who buy Monte Bello from the birth year of their children.

I am thankful for the poetry of Dylan Thomas.

I am thankful for every moment, in every corner of the world, in which someone eats a slice of pizza, then takes a rather healthy swallow of really good wine.

I will never admit it to her, but in truth, I am thankful that my wife did not allow me to name our daughter “Pizza” as I wanted to, because even though this would guarantee I would spend my life saying, “I love you, Pizza” over and over, it wouldn’t have in fact been particularly fair to our daughter, and if there’s one thing that being a parent teaches you, it’s that love means someone else.

I am thankful for pizza.

I am thankful for pizza and wine.

I am thankful for, not Chivas Regal in a $5 room (as Tom Waits had it), but pizza and a $400 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for art, and those who mean to make it.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good day.

I am thankful you read this.

I am thankful for that which you feel thankful for.

I feel thankful for you, whoever you are.

I feel thankful.

I am thankful.

Thank you.

#Harvest2012: Pressing Viognier …

October 22, 2012

As the intensities of Harvest begin to fade into the now-falling rains, time affords a new exhilaration of contemplation; time to think, to ponder, to reflect …

Time to sort through a furor of chronicle for the esoterica that slipped through un-memorialized …

Time to shine a light on the rarities, the wonders, the unexpecteds …

As for example, my completely unexpected stumble into a press session for that most elusive of grapes; Viognier …

Elusive, in that it can only be found in two small geometries within the great quilt of vineyards we call home …

Lytton West. 157 acres all told; a mere .5 of it Viognier …

You’ve seen it, perhaps, when looking closely at a label of our Syrah …

Perhaps you’ve read of our approach to its co-fermentation …

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/05/28/some-follow-up-on-the-viognier-question-co-fermentation-and-the-2005-ridge-vineyards-california-syrah-lytton-west/

But have you seen it being pressed?


#Harvest2012.

You can still feel it.

#Harvest2012: Final Crush

October 20, 2012

Eric Baugher & David Gates, examining the final arrivals from Sonoma …

Grapedate 10.20.12. Final Crush. Monte Bello Winery.

At the end of the day, every single decision is still driven by taste …

With today’s arrival of viognier, zinfandel, and petite sirah, we officially come to Final Crush at the Monte Bello Winery.

Uva no mas.

The United States of Syrah: Red, White, and You

March 23, 2012

If you’ve ever had a bottle of Ridge Vineyards Syrah, you’ve probably checked out the label. And when you checked out the label, you probably saw this …

And when you saw this, you probably did a bit of a double-take, scratched your head, and went, “Wha?”

Ok, maybe not. Maybe you’re already familiar with the wines and processes of Côte-Rôtie, in the Northern Rhone. Or maybe you’ve caught onto some of the contemporarily tradition-minded Rhone offerings from Australia, or Santa Barbara. Or conversely, maybe you aren’t familiar with Viognier at all, and just didn’t know it was a white varietal.

But for most of us, when first we see this label, the inclination is to wonder at the unexpected  juxtaposition of red and white grapes in the same bottle. It just doesn’t seem … right, somehow.

There are, however, very good reasons behind why these two do reside together so well. Briefly and colloquially, it’s a triumvirate:

1. Texture. Viognier’s viscosity makes for a brilliantly smoothing and rounding counterbalance to the tannin-forward granular rusticity of Syrah.

2. Aromatics. Viognier’s perfumed floralilty makes for a deliciously decadent interweave with the darker, inkier, earthen aromatics of Syrah.

3. Color & Preservation. Aspects of the chemistry of Viognier serve to keep the parallel tines of fruit and tannin at an even pace along the developmental trajectory of cellar-worthy Syrah. Put another way, Viognier helps keep the fruit, color, and aromatics intact over the long process of tannin-softening.

It’s this last rationale, #3, that is truly at the core of the Syrah-Viognier co-fermentation construct. It can get a bit heady when you dive full bore into the chemistry of it all, but it’s fascinating stuff, so let me please introduce winemaker Eric Baugher, as he arrives to spelunk you through the caverns of co-fermentation:

The approach we take with co-fermentation of Syrah with Viognier, is to first de-stem the syrah and open the crusher rollers.  This allows a high percentage of whole berries to travel through to fermenter uncrushed.

Next, based on calculated weight, we will destem and crush the anywhere between 5-10% viognier on top of the syrah in the fermenter. 

We then wait for natural yeast fermentation to begin, and pump-over and irrigate the cap to extract color and tannins. 

The typical maceration time (crush-to-press) is 7-8 days total, with twice a day pump-overs given. 

The viognier contains colorless flavanols from the skins that extract and conjugate with the extreme concentration of syrah’s anthocyanin color molecules.  Basically, the theory is that viognier helps stabilize syrah’s color; the condensation reactions between viognier’s flavanols and syrah’s anthocyanins form highly stable polymerized molecules that stay with the wine for life.   Once these polymers form, they don’t degrade through normal oxidation reactions. 

There is also a shift in the color spectrum of a syrah that has co-fermented with viognier.  Normally, syrah has a deep ruby color.  Once viognier is thrown into the mix for the complex reactions to form, the color will shift from deep ruby to saturated purple/blue.   This has a lot to do with light absorption/re-emission quantum chemistry of the anthocyanin complex with the viognier flavanols altering the polarity and electron flow of the multi-six carbon phenol ring that forms the anthocyanim molecule, thus altering the molar extinction coefficient.  The absorption of green spectrum light (520nm) by these condensed molecules causes re-emission of red spectrum 700nm plus a stronger re-emission at 420nm (deep purple/blue).  That’s why the co-fermented syrah/viognier blend works magically, creating an inkier wine.   It’s strange how this all works, taking a dark grape and cutting it with a white variety, and end up making a wine that is even darker.   That’s the complexity of quantum chemistry, which I had the pleasure of studying many years ago while obtaining my biochemistry degree.  

Now, I should say that this co-fermentation phenomena has been a very traditional winemaking approach taken in the northern rhone valley of France.  Through centuries of trial-and-error with many other varietals of the region, the combination of syrah with viognier became the standard.  This was decided by making better wine, not by having knowledge of the complex chemistry.  The chemistry came along much later to explain why it worked so well.

And that, my friends, is, in a nutshell, not only a mini-dissertation on co-fermenting Syrah and Viognier, but also, an excellent explanation of the relationship between Ridge Vineyards, and technology. Yes, we are pre-industrial at heart, and we still do, for the most part, things the old-fashioned way. But that said, we do have a very sophisticated technical side to us; the distinction is how we deploy it, and to what purpose.

I call your attention to something Paul Draper wrote, in an essay entitled “Pre-Industrial Winemaking at Ridge”:

In a synthesis of past and present, we have taken the pre-industrial techniques and applied them in conjunction with the best, least intrusive modern equipment. We’ve been told that we have the most sophisticated analytical laboratory of any winery our size.

Combine this with Eric’s words above:

Through centuries of trial-and-error with many other varietals of the region, the combination of syrah with viognier became the standard.  This was decided by making better wine, not by having knowledge of the complex chemistry.  The chemistry came along much later to explain why it worked so well.

And what you get is a lovely lil’ distillation of the Ridge philosophy on technology. In short, we essentially rely on technology to ideally confirm what we already knew by instinct.

For example, that Syrah and Viognier taste REALLY GOOD together, when co-fermented.

The next incarnation? The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah. Coming to a tasting room, or a cellar, near you. Soon. Very soon. Sooner if you’re an ATP member.

And if you can’t wait even that long (i.e. when your shipment arrives), you might want to consider coming to the annual Rhone Rangers event, held this coming weekend in glorious San Francisco. We’ll be pouring it there.

Come see Ridge Vineyards, at Rhone Rangers, to enjoy the benefits of citizenship in the United States of Syrah. Three cheers for the Red, White, and You!

Huzzah!

Huzzah!

Huzzah!

New Day, New Wine!

December 3, 2010

It’s the 5th day of Ridge Vineyards holiDAYS, and how fitting that on a day oft sung of in long, drawn out vowels, espousing that which is golden (on the fifth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me, five golden rings …), we should be making a little golden contribution ourselves …

And what a contribution! It’s the debut release of a wine we’ve NEVER, EVER made before! Sure,  you’ve seen it co-fermented in our Syrahs, but in 100% solo varietal form? Never!

Until today.

Today, the day when we make available the first ever Lytton Estate Viognier! That’s right folks, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Viognier (375ml) drops today, and as part of our 15 of holiDAYS, you can get it right now! Just click here.

I’m just sitting down now to pen some tasting notes …

As noted, a beautiful pale gold in the glass, and as expected, rich viscosity showing bowl-side …a veritable explosion of sweet peach, tangerine, lemon, and honey on the nose, and delightfully lacking in any overtly perfumed notes; the emphasis is clearly on the fruit … not quite as viscous on the palate as might be suggested by the legs, and good acidity present; there is a hint of almost Riesleing-like petrol character, mingling with an utterly singular minerality … the finish is a pleasing juxtaposition of tart and sweet, and is refreshing where it might be cloying, structured where it might be flabby, and in the end, tremendously unique; if you’re a fan of solo-varietal viognier, this may throw you for a bit of a loop, but I think it’s bound to win you over, and if you’re hesitant about this grape on its own, this may just be your new point-of-entry!

Some Follow-Up On The Viognier Question: Co-Fermentation and the 2005 Ridge Vineyards California Syrah Lytton West

May 28, 2009

You may remember a post from a couple weeks ago regarding Syrah and Viognier:

http://ridgewine.wordpress.com/2009/05/07/hurrah-syrah-or-to-blend-or-not-to-blend-the-viognier-question/

The post was sparked by a comment on WestCoastWineNet indicating that someone felt that one should never blend Viognier with quality Syrah.

I had the opportunity to correspond with Monte Bello winemaker Eric Baugher recently about these two varietals (which I was very eager to do, as Ridge doesn’t actually “blend” the two per se; rather, we co-ferment …), and he very kindly put some thoughts down for me, and accordingly, for you!

“The idea of co-fermentation isn’t new, we see greater complexity and color develop when zinfandel co-ferments with field varietals such as petite sirah, carignane, alicante bouschet, mataro etc.   In the northern Rhone valley, viognier has been used in small percentages to co-ferment with syrah to aid in stabilizing the abundant color of syrah and to temper tannin extraction.  This has been successfully done for hundreds of years.  I would also say that viognier has a few extra weeks of ripening ahead of syrah, so in the northern Rhone valley, on a cold year, the viognier might bring ripeness to the wine.

Now, in Dry Creek Valley, the weather is much more favorable for bringing syrah to full ripeness. The challenge for us is that the viognier can become extremely overripe by the time syrah is harvested.  Fortunately, we have two small parcels of viognier that have northeast exposure to help moderate the rate of ripening so in the fermenter the brix doesn’t increase significantly. 

Chemically, there are non-pigmented phenolics within the viognier skins that have a strong affinity for bonding to side-groups of the anthocyanin pigment of syrah.  Once these bonds are formed, they remain soluble and stable within the wine and provide a deep blue/purple spectrum of color.  Viognier also has a beautiful pungency of apricot, peach, and white flower which helps lift the total aroma of syrah which tends to be dark and gamey.” -EB

My original post referenced a specific Ridge wine, the 2005 Lytton West Syrah, which features 6% co-fermented viognier, and my experience with this wine (we have been pouring it in the MBTR with some degree of regularity lately as it’s very much moving into an exquisite stage of early optimum pourability …) very much jibes with Eric’s assessments above; to me the viognier performs three very key roles here: 1) Intensification and preservation of coloration, 2) Enhancement of viscosity/silkening of mouthfeel, and 3) Counterbalancing of aromatics. Put another way, the viognier does wonders for the color, and accordingly the aging and development of this wine; it also soothes and rounds out the mouthfeel, taking the oft-times rough, even granular chalkiness of syrah and giving it a far more luxurious palate encasement; and it delivers a brilliantly floral and lively counterbalance to the deep and dark syrah aromatics.

05YLW1-L

I am a tremendous fan of the ’05 Lytton West Syrah, and although syrah from the Lytton property is of extraordinarily fine character and quality, this wine most certainly benefits from the addition of the co-fermented viognier.

RIDGE In The Round was unable to schedule a tasting session for this wine the last time we poured it, so I’m going to get it on the menu again this weekend, and hopefully, I’ll be able to post a RIDGE Round Table Report next week!

Hurrah Syrah! -or – To Blend Or Not To Blend: The Viognier Question

May 7, 2009

So, I was doing some reading on West Coast Wine Net recently (which, if you’ve not yet had a look at this site, is something I highly recommend doing!), and I fell into reading a series of comments and observations debating the merits and qualities of Californian syrah:

(http://www.westcoastwine.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=351251#Post351251

In one of the comments, someone made mention of the fact that they felt it was a very bad thing (I won’t quote directly, as I don’t know the individual) to blend viognier with high quality syrah. Given that Ridge has made any number of syrahs (and all of a very high quality, in my opinion) over the years that include a percentage of viognier, I was inspired to have a close and contextual look at one. Accordingly, we’ll be pouring our 2005 Lytton West Syrah in the Monte Bello Tasting Room this weekend; this syrah features 6% viognier.

If you’ll be in the area, I encourage you to join us at Monte Bello to try this fascinating blend, and if you’ve tasted this wine before and have some thoughts, I encourage you to send in your comments! I’ll be posting a new version of RIDGE IN THE ROUND after the MBTR staff has had a chance to re-visit this wine.


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