Posts Tagged ‘Thomas Keller’

The Geometry of Oenophilism: Why Our Imaginations Matter, & Why Wine Matters

November 24, 2012

I was listening to the radio today — NPR, if you must know — and a sports report came on.

As you may or may not know, sports coverage on NPR can be slightly different than perhaps other iterations of the form. As but one example, one of the main NPR Sports correspondents opens and closes his program not with something from Black Sabbath, Motley Crue, or Guns n’ Roses, but with the following rather fine slab of athleto-centric gospel from Sister Wynona Carr:

Life is a ballgame

Bein’ played each day

Life is a ballgame

Everybody can play

Jesus is standin’ at home plate

Waitin’ for you there

Life is a ballgame,

But you’ve got to play it fair.

 

Amen Sister Wynona, amen!

Anyhow, as I was saying, sports coverage on NPR can be a tad different at times, and this morning’s effort was no exception. The correspondent on this morning’s program was discussing the impending arrival of Rutgers and Maryland to the halls of the Big Ten, and was in fact rather bemoaning the circumstance. In fact, he described the situation a tad starkly, in that he referred to it as being symptomatic of “a big money grab.”

Which is an altogether cynical stance, it seems to me, to say the least.

Which is really neither here nor there, as far as I’m concerned. What interested me far more was what he next said, which was essentially that, if sports matter at all, it’s because they matter in our imaginations, and accordingly, anything enacted that disabuses our imaginations of their passions cannot be a good thing.

Meaning, essentially, that overt and transparent displays of commercialism and profiteering in college sports are deeply disappointing, because they rather harshly puncture the elevated zeppelins of our imaginative lives.

So, to reiterate, he said that sports matter in our imaginations.

And mind you, he did not say this cynically!

Which accordingly makes his statement, then, a rather extraordinary statement; one clearly in defense of — nay, in praise of! — our imaginations.

Because what he actually said was, in effect, that our imaginations matter.

Which is exactly why wine matters.

Wine matters in our imaginations, and our imaginations matter, thus, wine matters.

This is the geometry of oenophilism. Wine matters in our imaginations, and our imaginations matter, thus, wine matters.

You see, seen from the cynical side, it’s actually just fermented grape juice, right? Just another alcoholic beverage? Isn’t it just another product, sold at a profit, in just another store, to just another consumer?

Isn’t it?

Or is it?

Ask the father who bought Monte Bello from his daughter’s birth year. Ask the sister and brother who return to Monte Bello every year to toast the anniversary of their mother’s passing with a bottle of Estate Chardonnay. Ask the new fiancé why he proposed over a glass of Geyserville. Ask Thomas Keller why, if it was his last meal on earth, he’d want it served with Lytton Springs.

Thomas Keller

Ask your imagination.

Old Vine To Table

June 6, 2011

Monte Bello is a storied locale. There is no getting around it. It’s where Ridge began. The first vintage was 1962. It’s 2011 now. That’s a lot of years to be making wine, and a lot of years to be hosting people for tastings. Talk to the old timers. They remember when it was just Paul Draper, sitting on a bench, ladling Monte Bello out of a soup tureen while feral dogs ran wild through the vineyards. (Disclaimer: Paul never used a ladle.)

Seriously though, things have changed a bit, and also not so much. But the point is, Monte Bello has a lot of history notched into its belt when it comes to tasting wine.

Lytton Springs is the diamond in the rough. History for days (can you say 115+ year-old vines?), a stunning legacy of Single-Vineyard Estate Wines (anyone notice that bit from Thomas Keller –French Laundry– about how he would choose Lytton Springs if it was to be his last wine on earth?) but a wee youngun’ when it comes to tastings.

Have you been there? If you have, then you don’t need no stinkin’ convertin’. But if you’ve not yet made the pleasure of acquaintance with all that goes on up there, I am here to help you dig it to the fullest extent of your cranial-emotive capabilities.

The staff at Lytton Springs? Amazing. The location? Amazing. The wines. Amazing.

But I am telling you, they also know how to put on an AFFAIR! I mean, a Top-Shelf, Grade A, USRDA approved, #1, Top of the Pops, Presidential Seal of Approval, HAPPENING.

Take the very recent Old Vine to Table event as but one example. And then hire a detective, who is able to travel through time and space, in a rocket ship, to go find your mind. Because it will be blown.

Put another way, what an event!

Just a little something Lytton Springs threw together for some members. Just a little somethin’ somethin’ …

Meaning, a gourmet four-course meal amidst the backdrop of our century-old vines. With featured wines including the following:

–1987, 1994, 2003, 2004 & 2008 Lytton Springs 

–1995 Monte Bello

–2007 Geyserville Essence

And did I mention that dinner was prepared from ingredients entirely sourced from Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma? Or that Farm owner Tara Smith and her husband Craig were on hand to host? 

And if that’s not enough, did you also know that Winemaker John Olney, President Mark Vernon, Vice President of Vineyard Operations David Gates, and Vice President of Sales David Amadia were also there?

I mean, hell’s bells, this thing was interstellar on fire magnificent!

Alright, dig, I know, you want to know more about the food. Well, menu up yourself!

Passed Hors d’ Oeuvres

House Cured Wild Pacific Salmon

Spring Pea Blini, Flowers & Bell Creme Fraiche

Pickled Beef Tongue Crostini

Farm Egg, Maple, Brioche

1st Course

Chicken Crepinette, Maitake, Pickled Grapes

2nd Course

Slow Roasted Pork Tenderloin

Spoon Bread, Cilantro, Hibiscus, Charred Pineapple

3rd Course

Braised Brisket

Redwood Hill Cheddar Fondue Potatoes, Fava Beans, French Onion Broth

(cheffed up by the very great folks at Feast!)

Oh yeah, that’s the stuff.

I’m just sayin’, this was some kind of special event, and do you really want to know what made it the special-est? Not the century-and-then-some- old-vines, not the roster of Ridge principals on hand, not the Fondue Potatoes (though good lord, that sounds good!), not even the wine. It was the guests in attendance. Just really fine, fine, folks. The best.

On behalf of us all, thank you for attending this very special event. It was such a pleasure to have you.

And to everyone out there, while we can’t promise an event like this every day, we do really want you to visit us, because we love what we do; we love these wines,we love the how, where, what, why of how they’re made, and more than anything else, we love to share them with you, to talk about them with you, and perhaps best of all, to hear from you later, when you tell us all the amazing stories about the how, where, what, why of how you ended by sharing the wine you took home from us.

Old Vine to Table? Certainly. But event more than that? Us to You.

Outliving Longevity Projections: The 1973 Geyserville

March 24, 2010

Today was another one of those great days when into my inbox comes a heartfelt and wondrous story about one of our wines, and how it found its way through the mists of time into someone else’s life. These moments are always a reminder of just how far a wine can travel, how significant a role it can play, and how even more magical it can make an already magical moment. And sometimes, it’s just plain great news to hear that a wine has simply withstood the trials of time. Add to the latter an excellent food pairing suggestion, and you’ve got in a nutshell the letter I’ve just received.

It begins:

“We had our last bottle of the ’73 Geyserville last night at a dinner party and it was great. Still plenty of fruit, good color and all the satisfaction that comes with drinking a well made mature wine.”

Mind you, I received this letter TODAY, and the letter references LAST NIGHT, meaning this was a 36+ year-old-wine! Astonishing for any wine, but all the more so for … gasp! … A California Zinfandel! Our writer actually has quite a little fun at Paul’s expense, who wrote the label notes in 1975, and gave a rather humble projection of longevity:

“The label said that we should wait at least three years before drinking the wine, but the extra 33 years didn’t hurt.”

Excellent! I love it!

The letter continues with a reference to what was had at table as a companion to this wine, and if ever a finer pairing was offered for a vintage Geyserville, I’d like to hear it!

“We had the wine with onion soup and steak frites maitre d’hotel from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook.”

The letter concludes with quite a touching line meant for Paul Draper, and it’s a sentiment I’d like to second:

“Thanks for making a great wine.”

Thanks indeed Paul, and thanks to you-know-who-you-are for writing us such a wonderful letter!


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