Posts Tagged ‘The New Yorker’

Freshness, Energy, and Balance: In Pursuit of Zinfandel

December 21, 2012

I lived in New York once, and then left, and then moved back and lived there again. That should tell you something about my feelings for New York.

That said, I lived in Northern California once, and then left, and then moved back, and I am now here to stay. That should also tell you something about my feelings for New York.

That said, my missus and I have maintained our subscriptions to The New York Times and The New Yorker.

Meaning, I read Eric Asimov.

Because, as the great and wise Tom Hill says, he has original thoughts. And because, as I say, his heart and his palate are in the right place.

So when Eric wants to talk Zinfandel, I want to listen.

Particularly because Eric doesn’t normally much like Zinfandel.

Fortunately, it turns out he likes ours.

It was an odd quest Mr. Asimov recently set out on; a search for Zinfandels evidencing restraint.

Zinfandels that exhibited freshness, energy, and balance.

Fish in a barrel, or Nessie in the Loch?

They searched, they selected, they tasted. The results?

You could say we were mildly disappointed by our tasting. Certainly, lower alcohol levels by themselves are no guarantee that a wine will be lively and energetic. Yet we hope that more zinfandel producers will embrace the notion that wines can be both agile and intense rather than aiming simply for blockbuster power.

Ok, sounds like it didn’t go very well, right?

Not so!

They did indeed find the wines they were hoping for, just not a great many of them. But the ones they did love, they really loved. And they weren’t even surprised to be loving them. Dig this:

Our No. 1 wine was no surprise. For decades, Ridge has been making great zinfandels from its old-vine vineyards in Sonoma County, and the 2010 from Lytton Springs in Dry Creek Valley was yet another. It was hefty enough at 14.4 percent but beautifully structured, nuanced and refreshing.

I knew I admired Eric for a reason!

In all seriousness, I do indeed admire what he’s done here, because he is raising vital questions relevant not just to the world of wine, but to the world in general. Inadvertently perhaps, but he is  raising them just the same.

What he is really doing, is asking us to face our definition of power.

What is power?

Buson

As a species, we’re pretty feeble in many ways. We cannot fly like birds fly. We cannot “breathe” under water as fish can. Our eyes are weak, and we cannot see in the dark. Our ears are weak, and we cannot hear long distances or wide pitches. We cannot hibernate like bears, nor run as fast as cheetahs. Our skin is fragile; it protects us from neither heat nor sun. We do not live as long as turtles.

What we can do, or should I say, what we do have, is brains. Big brains, with big thoughts in them. And by virtue of our brains, we have achieved a unique sort of power in the world.

But what is important, what is so very important to remember, is the origin of this singular power. It is not a power rooted in physical strength. It is not a power rooted in size, or velocity, or scale. It is not a power of oppression, or violence. It is a power of nuance, and complexity. It is a power of responsivity; compensational in nature, conciliatory in spirit. It is a power of compromise, humility, and respect.

It is a power of observation, a power born from the act of seeing the world, and striving to find a place in it. It is an integrative power.

Misused, it becomes all the things it is, in fact, not. It becomes violent. It becomes oppressive. It becomes ugly. It becomes destructive. Eventually, it ceases even to be power. It becomes merely a weapon.

There is power in a haiku. There is violence in a gun.

Drink freshness, energy, and balance.

Drink haiku.

Before the white chrysanthemum
the scissors hesitate
a moment.

(Yosa Buson, translated by Robert Hass)

To read Eric’s full article, please click here:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/26/dining/exploring-zinfandels-that-hold-back-on-power.html?emc=eta1&_r=0

Notes from Assemblage Monte Bello: The 1999 Monte Bello

April 29, 2011

Those of us of a certain age lived through the Clinton-era PC years, and digested our requisite dose of political correctness accordingly.

The wine industry did so as well, and one of the conventions to largely go the way of the dinosaur was gender’d analysis of wine; you rarely see wines described as “masculine” or “feminine” any longer.

As far as I am concerned, I am not too bothered by this, as I have to confess, the deployment of these terms was never an approach I was particularly fond of to begin with. There are far more imaginative and poetic ways to linguistically wrestle the intangible into coherence.

All of which makes it all the more strange that I should find myself thinking about gender when contemplating the 1999 Monte Bello. I can’t possibly say why, but for some reason, I have always had the sense that this wine is male. But no longer.

What follows is a completely true  ”I woke up in the middle of the night and wrote this on a scrap of paper by my bedside before immediately falling asleep again” story …

Which is to say, I woke up in the middle of the night last night, and wrote the following:

99cmb1
bulgarian
girl
in
Casablanca

And if you don’t believe me, here is the paper (I scribbled my note, oddly enough, around a poem entitled “Snails”, by John Witte, in The New Yorker!):

Anyhow, the point is, for some reason, it occurred to me that the 1999 Monte Bello is very much like the young Bulgarian woman trying to procure exit visas for herself and her new husband in Casablanca! Duh!

Meaning; as Annina Brandel (as played by the then 17-year-old Joy Page) is both so very young and yet so possessed of a certain gravitas, so too is the 1999 Monte Bello.

The 1999 Monte Bello ...

In the movie, Annina is asking advice of Rick (played by Humphrey Bogart) about whether or not she should do a “bad thing” in order to receive said exit visas from Captain Renault, the prefect of police (played by Claude Rains). She then speaks of her husband Jan, “He is such a boy. In many ways I am so much older than he is.”

And that is the 1999 Monte Bello! Young, beautiful, exotic, passionate and desperate in equal measures, and yet somehow, wise beyond its years.

Casablanca ...


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