Posts Tagged ‘Tasting Notes’

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Wine Blogger’s Tasting: The Monte Bello Vertical!

March 22, 2010

 

Well, it was a heck of a tasting. Pardon the colloquialism, but it was a heck of tasting …

Last Thursday was the debut of our new Wine Blogger’s Tasting Series, and if I do say so myself, I think we got off to a rather fine start!

I would very much like to thank our special guests for attending, and bringing their respective realms of expertise to bear on our offerings. A number of them have already posted their responses, and needless to say, I’ve been thrilled to hear how positive an experience it seems to have been for everyone. You can visit these posts by clicking on the following links:

Kitchen Worthy

Santa Cruz Mountains and Santa Clara Valley Wines

Wine Book Girl

And as to what I’d like to say next, well, how about “Wow!”? I mean, what a tasting flight! Essentially, and as noted previously (found here), what we did was look at the same flight of wines that were recently reviewed by Robert Parker for the Wine Advocate, which means not only did we taste mini-verticals of three of our primary zinfandel designations, but we also tasted an extraordinary spectrum of Monte Bellos, including a barrel sample of the 2008! (There were a few other little treats thrown in as well, as you’ll see from the above posts …)

And at this point, I’d like to offer a profound thank-you to Eric Baugher, VP of Winemaking here at Monte Bello, for pulling the barrels sample. Cheers Eric! What a special treat for all …

So, all that said, I’d like to dive into some tasting notes. I’m going to relay my thoughts on the Monte Bellos first, with the zinfandels to come in a follow-up post timed around their release the first weekend of April.  (See here for more on that …)

So, here goes!

2008 Monte Bello (barrel sample; not yet bottled)

Extremely succulent aromatics; ripe, concentrated, rich with blackberry and blueberry sweetness, mitigated by a pleasantly non-herbal leafiness; more forest than garden, and just a touch of decadent cassis …  Loads of minerality at point-of-entry, plus tremendous organic-matter-presence: skin, seed, stem, etc.; accordingly, a gloriously “old-world” front-palate … Tannins chalky but powdery through the mid-palate, only showing adhesion towards the finish; lots of bramble and briar fruit notes, and one of the more elegant displays of youthful acidity I think we’ve seen from a Monte Bello in recent vintages … A slightly darker layer starts to emerge towards the close; bits of cocoa, leather, and perhaps most notably, bittersweet chocolate, all making their presence felt, in what is currently still an appropriately short finish, but one that promises rich rewards down the line …

2007 Monte Bello (Fall 2010 Release)

By comparison to the above, the aromatics exhibit a stronger sense of herbality; mint, eucalyptus, etc. … Hints of cocoa as well, plus cool spearmint, all counterbalanced by strawberry leaf and even a hint of red licorice … Lean at point-of-entry, and exhibiting a poignant expressiveness from the acidity, this wine begs for the table at this point; higher-fat dishes, heavily and earthily-herbed cream sauces, gamy meats, deeply marinated and fleshly sexy mushrooms …  Fruit tones start to emerge mid-palate; strident cherry, brightly fresh yellow-flesh plum, even a trace of pickled radish … which leads us to the back-palate, which starts to hint at a singularly fascinating display of exotic spices … in the end, however, youth and power rule the day at this early date, and while all above are tantalizing, this is still very structure-forward; beams and girders, elbows and knees …

2006 Monte Bello (Current Release)

Aromatics here make for a notable parade of juxtopositional diversity; southern tropicality against northeastern blue-black sweetness; west coast eucalyptality against southernly hemispheric savoriness; eastern seaboard herbality against valley-alley central-coast heat … in short, a parade of all that is, in fact,  California … The approach concentrates immediately, delving into viscous waters and sweet fruits; acid takes a back-seat at this point, and adhesion rules the day on the tannin-side of the aesthetic equation … Gates to the castle once traversed, however, a surprisingly buoyant display of harvest-berry tones chime through the tannins that otherwise hold the youthful palate somewhat in reserve … Finish-wise, essentially more of the same, with the tannins being still reasonably obfuscatory at this juncture; glimpses of the future on offer seem to foreshadow a rather more genteel Monte Bello; seamless, supple, and elegant …

2005 Monte Bello

If 2006 was the poet, 2005 is the boxer; meaning, this vintage offers just a tremendous display of muscularity and fruit-forward power … The front is immense; absolutely gobs of fruit on offer; ripe, succulent, fleshy, utterly mouth-seducing. A lot of girth, certainly, but also positively one of the most approachable, generous, opulent Monte Bellos we’ve ever seen. That said, despite all that hospitality up front, no quarter is given on structure; tannin, acidity, herbality, fruit, alcohol, all of it is there, and it’s all there at levels necessary for longevity. And perhaps even more miraculously, given all the heft and vivacity, the wine is most definitely balanced; acid against tannin, fruit against spice, etc. If the holy grail for Monte Bello, as we look towards the future, is an increase in approachability and pourability without any sacrifice of longevity, then this may be the definitive proof-of-concept.

2004 Monte Bello

Fantastic spread of autumnal spice right out of the aromatic gates, particularly driven by nutmeg and clove …  lots of cedar and mid-tone tobacco as well, plus a touch of Rooibos tea (with the emphasis placed squarely on the “red leaf” factor) … The longer and deeper the sniff, the more I found strains of persimmon, kumquat, and a rather unexpectedly mentholated version of blueberry’s sweet-meets-stem fruit-and-wood profile, making for an enticingly jumbled entreatment …  As a long-anticipated kiss might, however, the front-palate banishes all romantic doubt to the past; the point-of-entry here is so sublime, so integrated, so forcefully convincing yet gallantly unobtrusive, it’s almost a relief to swallow … Far less structure-forward than its predecessors, this is a subtly fruit-driven offering that speaks quietly, but carries tremendous force… Put another way, this is a rather more pretty rendition of the Monte Bello aesthetic, but don’t let the grace and elegance fool you; this one will tame you, given half the chance …

2003 Monte Bello

Heavily concentrated aromatics: leather, spice, cassis, clove …  in certain respects, all the usual suspects … But boring accordingly? Not likely! Add the layers of cocoa and currant, the chocolate-zuchini-cake and teriyaki okra, the deeply, deeply-aged sweet-and-treacle taste of a true Modena Balsamic … then match this up against the peerless forestation of mountain-fruit, the wild-yeast wildness, the dry-farmed dryness, the limestone minerality, the valley-meets-the ocean dichotomy, and you’ve got the 2003 Monte Bello … Not a muscle-wine by any means, this is probably the most unassuming point-of-entry of all in the flight; a polite Monte Bello early on, that only begins to flex its seriousness and depth with time … Put another way, it’s a writer who arrives early at the release party for another writer’s book; who stays mostly in the background, who drinks just enough for loquaciousness, but not enough for spectacle, yet somehow finds themselves garnering more and more attention as the night goes on; for days afterwards, no one in attendance can recall what the party had been for, but all involved find themselves repeating quotes from the unassuming mystery guest. The 2003 Monte Bello is that guest, a wine that doesn’t call attention to itself, but can’t be forgotten once experienced.

And that’s the story! If you’re a California Wine Blogger, or a Wine Blogger who might be in our area for the next of these events, then please let me know if you’d be interested in attending. And again, thanks to all who joined us, you made it an extraordinary happening!

(photographs by Darren Gardner)

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Posted in Events & Photographs, Monte Bello, Press Reviews, Tasting Flights, Tasting Notes, Tasting Rooms, Viticultural Salmagundi, Wine Blogs, Wine Tales | 2 Comments »

375 ml Tasting Notes: 1992 Monte Bello & 2002 Monte Bello!

October 26, 2009

02CMB1-L92CMB1-L

2002 Monte Bello (375 ml) 10.23.09

Appearance:

Deep black ruby with a rich, strawberry limn. Fairly notably viscous, with short, thick, slo-to-medium speed legs ….

Aromatics:

Surprisingly generous offering of mid-tone red fruits, cherry and red plum in particular. Strong sandalwood presence, with a little bit of bark thrown in as well. Hints of spices such as coriander and clove, and a touch of white pepper.

Front:

Quite elegantly weighted, with a firm dose of tongue-top tannin and tingling cheek acidity.

Mid-Palate:

A touch of youthful tanginess mixes with some sweet & savory dried fruit notes, layered over a healthy stripe of minerality spreading across the taste buds.

Finish:

Still emerging and developing both heft and grace; the complexities are beginning to show, but the movement is still somewhat adolescent.

Summary:

As noted above, surprisingly generous given the youth of the vintage (the smaller format obviously makes a difference here), with great potential for becoming one of those Monte Bellos whose pendulum swings toward the side of favoring elegance, structure, and spiciness, with a seamless integration of sweet and savory characteristics, underladen with low to mid-tone fruit characters and a subtle wood presence.

 

1992 Monte Bello (375 ml) 10.23.09

Appearance:

Deep black cherry belly, moving outwards towards Saturn-esque rings of pomegranate , to finally a fine and lovely salmon pink limn. Nearly impenetrably thick and concentrated in appearance, with a full-blown bowl glaze worth of viscosity …

Aromatics:

Sweet and concentrated fruit succulence in spades on the nose, with a strong combination of fig, quince, and walnut infusing the aromatics with a very pleasantly darkened carpet for the fruit to laze about on. Blackcurrant jam, black pepper, and a bit of pipe tobacco also permeate. A certain mature woodsiness weaves about as well …

Front:

A dazzling display of acidity in the cheeks, with a tender touch of sweetness at tongue-tip to counter … Strong mineral content, with an unexpected influx of an almost almond-paste-like smooth nuttiness …

Mid-Palate:

Elegant mouthfeel, with a wide spread of components across the palate; decidedly mouth-watering tannins, bouncingly life-full acids, warm and integrated alcohol, all supporting a holiday offerings’ worth of dried fruit and sweet bread. This is holiday dessert, with rich and creamy espresso, warm and chest-filling brandy, and the sweet smell of the fireplace … chestnuts roasting on an open fire, anyone?

Finish:

Not the widest or warmest finish I’ve seen in a Monte Bello, but very elegant, very streamlined, and very harmonious. Flawless, if not obvious.

Summary:

A mature Monte Bello with all the trimmings; if this were your holiday table, you wouldn’t be missing a single side dish, entrée, or dessert, and you wouldn’t be stuffed afterwards either. You’d just be happy, healthy, and at peace.

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Posted in Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello, Tasting Notes, Varietals & Blends | 2 Comments »

1993 Geyserville: Tasting Notes

September 21, 2009

I can’t exactly tell you why I’m doing this, but you’d certainly be swimming in safe waters if you decided to trust me that there is a VERY GOOD REASON why I’m posting my tasting notes for the 1993 Geyserville today. Hint: check your e-mail inbox tomorrow morning!

93ZGY1-L

1993 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Unquestionably a dark knight sort of character (in terms of aesthetic range as regards metaphorical “coloration”), this very enjoyable vintage expresses aromatic notes running the gamut from the perhaps the more familiar plum, licorice and cedar, to the rather more obscure fudge, brownies, and blood orange. It has a beautiful dark cherry hue with undertones of ripe plum, and a deep crimson limn in the glass. As the wine moves from front to back of palate, it leaves in its elegant wake sparkles of sweet cherry succulence, and a counterbalancing eucalyptal spice. The mouthfeel is soft and supple, yet quite fleshy, almost plush, and the warm spicy second-tier layers are nicely counterbalanced by a slightly sandal-woody nose.

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Posted in Carignane, Mataro, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Tasting Notes, Varietals & Blends, Zinfandel | 2 Comments »

1977 and 1988: Through The Eyes Of A Double-Barrel Bello …

July 10, 2009

Let me just give you a little context for this particular Monte Bello tasting.

In 1977, women dressed like this:

1977-pre-washed-denims

Men dressed like this:

1977_Men

We listened to this:

Led_Zeppelin_on_stage_1977

or this:

bee-gees

 

This man was president:

jimmy_carter_300px

And this man:

wine_advocate_logo-256x256

who would go on to practically single-handedly reinvent the rules for modern wine tasting, released the first issue of The Wine Advocate.

Fast forward to 1988:

250px-Plymouth_Reliant_Station_Wagon_lateSonny_Bonokidnplaydukakis-tank-717905cocktailAnd it was clear we were in a different era. For those of you to whom these images might be unfamiliar, by the way, that’s a Plymouth Reliant, which debuted in 1988, that’s Sonny Bono, who assumed the mayorship of Palm Springs in 1988, that’s Kid n’ Play, who hit the charts with “2Hype” in 1988, that’s Michael Dukakis, who ruined his bid for the presidency in 1988 by having himself photographed in this helmet, in this tank, and that’s  Tom Cruise, showing us how cool bartenders could be in “Cocktail,” which opened in 1988.

And just as different as these two eras were, that’s just how different these two vintages of Monte Bello taste today! The 1977 Monte Bello, as expected, will play to the palates of those who prefer austere, serious, mature wines; the sort of serious, mature wines that should be drunk by serious, mature individuals, in austere, serious settings, to the sounds of mature classical tones. Something like this perhaps:

masterpiecetheater

Just add wine. 1977 Monte Bello perhaps. With its appearance of orange-tinted garnet, its aromas of chocolate-covered raisins, fennel, dried embers (as in smoky, but not savory per se), dried fruit, and the unmistakable whiff of autumn leaves raked after a rain; with its fine, chalky, baby-powder-esque tannins and its terse acidity, its hints of Worcester sauce and apricot, and its warm, almost cognac-like chest-filling finish, this is a wine to be savored over canonical literature, by a fire, in a library full of leather-bound books that is heavy with the somberness of deep, dark rugs and low candle-light.

The 1988 Monte Bello, on the other hand, is a young person’s game, a spring person, a green-thumbed person; this is a wine for gardens and gazebos; picnics and rowboats; blankets in the grass and the twinkling eyes of couples contemplating love.  Don’t let the deep, dark plum appearance fool you, nor the firm legs and viscous glaze. Skip to the dried herb bouquet, the notes of quince and persimmon, the dried sweet cherries. And take a sip, then bask in the elegant and palate-coating mouthfeel, the subtle warmth, the supple tannins, the long and graceful length of the finish. Then lie back in your field, gaze up at the clouds, and find in them the lost shapes of childhood.

77_88_MBUnmasked

1977 and 1988. Those were the days, my friends.

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Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, History, Monte Bello, Tasting Notes, Viticultural Salmagundi | Leave a Comment »

RIDGE In The Round: The RIDGE Round Table Reviews The New 2007 Buchignani Ranch Carignane!

July 6, 2009

So, it’s time for another edition of RIDGE In The Round, and in keeping with my currently obsessive focus on Carignane, the RIDGE Round Table reviews the new 2007 RIDGE Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane, which was the ATP Wine Program release for June. My compatriots for this tasting were Zani Nesvacil, Sam Howles-Banerji, Karen Cai, and Darren Gardner.

Before I commence with a round-up of our Round Table, I want to pass on a link to some backround information on the new Carignane. You can click here to read Winemaker John Olney’s notes.

Ok, on to the show!

Right out of the gate, everyone got very excited by the stunningly complex color of this wine. Oddly enough perhaps, one taster described it as being “light ruby in color” while another deemed it “crimson; deep & rich,” clearly indicating the degree of hue complexity this wine offers in  the glass. Still another described it as “blackberry purple,” and another as “ruby red with a hint of purple/blue.” Personally, I took a slightly different approach, describing it as being roughly the same shade as the stains on one’s fingers after going blackberry picking in Maine. But that’s just me … Mainly, it was really impressive to see this range of characterization regarding color; that’s not usually a realm of much debate! In addition to discussions of color two tasters commented on the relatively slender and rapidly-moving legs, which seemed to bespeak a reasonably less-than-weighty mouthfeel, which indeed proved to be the case.

Aromatics proved to be a very interesting set of discussions. Everybody got on the berry train, but there wasn’t a lot of agreement about just what sort of berry notes we were experiencing. Some felt a blackberry character, which I was in agreement with, though others got stronger notes of blueberry, which I didn’t so much experience. One taster chimed in with dried cranberry, and while no one else had noted that originally, all immediately agreed there was a strong showing of this in the bouquet. There was general agreement on a certain sweetness to the aromatics as well, probably most unifiedly described as a lightly oak-derived waft of caramel; interesting, given that the wine was only in barrel for 12 months, and with only 10% of those barrels being new oak. But it was there! I personally felt there was a certain herbality to the nose, almost but not quite eucalyptal, more of a grassier character, not dissimilar from chamomile tea leaves. I also got a tremendous amount of cherry strains, though apparently more so than the rest of the gang did. Two tasters felt there was some smoke to the aromatics, but only in minute strains. With that last disclaimer in place, I was inclined to agree, but only slightly!

Front-palate invited a near-universal response; what acidity! Tip of  the tongue, sides of the tongue, back of the tongue, inside the cheeks, on the roof of the mouth; we were all pretty much salivating right away; this wine redefines mouth-watering! In a good way certainly, which a slew of food pairing suggestions coming up immediately: lamb chops, traditional autumnal turkey and stuffing, grilled chicken, herbed alfredo sauce pasta, baked brie, grilled bacon-wrapped apples, etc. Color-as-metaphor-wise, the references were all red all the time: red plum, red raspberry, red cherry, red, red, red (but no strawberries!). Probably the most interesting facet, as we moved into the mid-palate discussions, was the interfacing of some unexpectedly sweet fruit notes juxtaposed up against the more expected tart characteristics (notably, some ever-so-slightly tart yellow plum flesh strains). One taster made the rather spot-on notation of dusty bay leaves, which all were pleased to discover upon having been alerted … The sweet/tart balance probably found its most effective reference in the yellow-flesh plum, in that the wine seemed to both evidence qualities of sweet plum skin and tart plum flesh …

To the collective RIDGE In The Round palate, the finish showed two key characteristics; a certain warmth (not alcohol heat, mind you, just warmth), and intensely mouth-watering tannins across the back of the tongue/taste buds; again, we were all salivating!

Overall, everyone appeared very positive about this wine, finding it to be both a classically lean, acidity-driven carignane with an unexpectedly supple mid-palate, and a surprisingly buoyant fruit offering; it’s every so slightly tart in a perfectly culinary companion sort of way, it’s bright with loads of red fruits, it’s mouth-watering and saliva-inducing, it’s warm but not hot, and its exceptionally approachable, particularly given that it’s a 100% solo varietal carignane.

Which is all well and good, but the real key, according to one taster, is that this wine is a “baby making wine!” Or, as the significant other of said taster has apparently put it, it’s “liquid excellence!”

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Posted in Carignane, Tasting Notes, Viticultural Salmagundi | 1 Comment »

The 1996 Monte Bello, Some Quick Tasting Notes …

June 29, 2009

I just had a quick but lovely chance to take a nice taste of the 1996 Monte Bello out of a 375ml; something I’ve not had the opportunity to do for a while, and let me tell you, it was quite a treat; one of the finer showings I’ve had the pleasure of sampling recently. At the 750ml size I’d definitely still recommend flexing some patience, but if you’ve a 375ml on hand of the ’96, you certainly don’t need to feel guilty if you pop it tonight!

Anyhow, my notes, with some others to follow:

Appearance:
A black plum middle with a double-banded halo of inner blood-orange pulp and outer salmon-raspberry. Thick bowl glaze indicating supple and rich viscosity…

Aromatics:
Teriyaki and Soy Sauces right out of the gate, followed by parallel strains of ketchup and fried green tomatoes on one side, and cinnamon, clove, pepper steak, white pepper, and tarragon on the other, making for an intensely complex and hunger-inducing bouquet…

Front:
Bright, vivacious acidity, softly granular tannins, mouth-watering cranberry skin characteristics, tanginess of fruit pectin, and the sweetness of cherry pastries…

Mid-palate:
Still a little youthful warmth on the roof of the mouth, but otherwise a nice balanced spread of acid against tannin, fruit against spice …

Finish:
Long, warm, chest-filling, and deeply satisfying. A quick whiff of the glass ten minutes after emptying it reveals nice sweet fruit and lingering caramel undertones …

Summary:
As noted above, one of the most pleasurable Monte Bello tastings in my recent memory!

And here are some other thoughts:

Paul Draper, writing back in 1998, had this to say:

“Sensuous and complex, with layered fruit and beautifully integrated tannins, this is among the loveliest of the ‘90s. Accessible as a young wine, it will develop further with twelve to fifteen years of bottle age.”

And Stephen Tanzer, my oft-quoted personal wine-reviewer favorite, wrote this in 2000, which I think is particularly spot-on:

“Good full bright ruby. Wild, super-ripe aromas of cassis, plum, cocoa, soy sauce, leather, roasted game and plum sauce, all lifted by a floral note. Lush, thick and dense, but the currant, black cherry and menthol flavors are still austere. The slight green note repeats on the long finish, which features faintly gritty tannins. In an awkward stage today, but has all the elements to make a superb bottle.”

And here’s perhaps the most unexpected kicker; James Laube, who’s occasionally been known to be ever so slightly tough on us every once in a while, gave this vintage a 96 point rating in Wine Spectator!

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Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Monte Bello, Petit Verdot, Tasting Notes | 1 Comment »

RIDGE In The Round: The RIDGE Round Table Reviews The 2004 California Zinfandel Oltranti!

May 28, 2009

So, this edition of RIDGE-In-The-Round owes a debt of strategic gratitude to the good folks over at the wine blog “Two Days Per Bottle,” where the tasting MO is predicated on the notion that wines should be tasted and analyzed over the course of two days, as opposed to just one sitting. This is at least sort of exactly what we did for our new review subject, the ’04 Ridge Oltranti. We tasted different bottles on Saturday and Sunday, and I also tasted a “carry-over” bottle.

04ZOL1-L

My compatriots in the RIDGE Round Table differed slightly across the two days; unavoidable given weekend scheduling. I personally remained constant across both days, as did Zani Nesvacil. On Saturday, we were joined by Barry Campbell, Tara Einis, and Karen Cai, and on Sunday by Kyle Kurani, Amy Monroe, and Darren Gardner.

So, let’s begin!

First, appearance, specifically the belly, or middle (Engagingly referred to by one of our tasters as “The Meniscus!). Oddly enough, perhaps, cranberry came up more than once; in fact, it came up 5 times! Raspberry was also noted a couple times, as was amber. The limn (or “halo”) got “salmon” “pink,” and “strawberry,” and two tasters noted its seemingly expanded width. As to my notes, I have it “husky burgundy hues with a pale raspberry limn — fairly rapid legs and a medium-weight glaze” on Saturday, and on Sunday gave it “striated shades of raspberry-to-salmon meet dark cranberry, with a fairly wide limn and a clear edge beyond — thin but confident legs.”

Aromatics was where conversation really took off! It was amazing the array of references and descriptors that poured forth. Here is just a sampling: pipe tobacco, cigar box, cedar, humidor spice, light tar, dried dark fruits, dried strawberry, and from my notes: pipe tobacco, cedar, toffee, blackberry seeds, cigar box wood, pomegranate, blood orange rind, salted dried prune candy (Saturday) and tobacco, cedar, cigar box, English plum pudding, and Orange Pekoe tea (Sunday). There was a fair amount of debate about the citrus character in the nose, and although no one could totally agree, we all conceded it had something to do with oranges and tea!

Everyone was in total agreement on acid placement at the Front of the wine; there was no acid to speak of showing on our tongue tips, rather, it was firmly located along the sides of the tongue. Tannins were equally and equitably analyzed, in that we all pretty much agreed that they were most present across the back of the tongue along the taste buds, with a slow-developing but strong residual presence between inner lips and teeth.

Cherry, plum, and fig were the three most common descriptors to emerge as regards the mid-palate fruit, but all seemed to concur that acids and tannins were still holding the majority court as far as flavor profile, which seemed to suggest to most participants that either the fruit is a) not yet to emerge, or b) not going to emerge. Given that this wine has only just been released, I think it’s pretty safe to say that A should be the case. That said (and this was noted during our tasting) we’re also somewhat judging against the last Oltranti release (which was actually the ’05), which comparatively was probably a slightly more fleshy, plump, mouth-filling offering. The ’04 is certainly leaner, and accordingly, probably far more of a food wine than a sipper, which was definitely the case with the ’05. Personally, I wasn’t seeing a whole lot of fruit during my Saturday session, but on Sunday I noted everything from orange peel and dried cranberry to fried green tomatoes and fruit tea! (One participant also noted Fig Newton, which I agreed with as far as the fig part, but less so the sweet bread … And another taster noted açaí berry, which I thought was absolutely spot on!)

The finish was collectively noted for being highly spice-driven, as well as the strong vibrancy of the acidity. I think it’s safe to say everyone agreed that both the Petite Sirah and the Carignane really make their presence felt on the finish in particular. And although I didn’t note it until the Sunday tasting, I definitely agreed when it was pointed out that there was some Umami presence emerging as well.

To summarize, I think we all felt some version of the same thing, which is that this wine evidences a somewhat singular dichotomy, in that it smells older, and drinks younger, than it actually is. Does this make it deceptive? Discordant? I don’t think so at all. To borrow a great phrase from one of our Saturday tasters, the ’04 Oltranti is rather a “wolf in sheep’s clothing!” To be sure, it’s fascinating, and personally, I think some bottle age is going to settle this wine into a highly quaffable offering; one that evidences great and exotic complexity, making it perfect for the table. I was about to write “if not for the picnic” but even as I thought that, I remembered that it was the #1 seller last weekend, with a great number of the bottles going out to the picnic area! Anyhow, per winemaker Eric Baugher’s projections from 2005, this wine is still 1-3 years from being “fully developed”; so be on the lookout; delicious wine on the horizon!

And that’s the latest from the RIDGE Round Table!

Have you tasted this wine? If so, comment! Send us your thoughts, observations, tasting notes, etc., we’d love to hear from you!

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Posted in Carignane, Petite Sirah, Rhone varietals, Tasting Notes, Varietals & Blends, Zinfandel | 2 Comments »

2008 Monte Bello: Final Assemblage Tasting Notes

May 23, 2009

I’ll confess two things:

1) I was not able to taste the new (and most likely final)  assemblage at the actual Monte Bello Collector Event; I was just too busy.

-And-

2) Having now tasted it, I’m REALLY excited … I do try to be objective when I assess our wines, but I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t love Ridge, so of course there is a fair share of love coming from my corner of the ring, but I have to say, I’m feeling particularly loverly after tasting this offering today …

I’ll backtrack here a bit and note that there has been alot of discussion about the fact that the blend is currently a two-varietal construction; after the component tasting in March, there was a tangible degree of excitement about both the co-fermented Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and especially about the Petit Verdot. Conversation about the Petit Verdot continues, and Monte Bello winemaker Eric Baugher has said he’ll be keeping some separate and in barrel for a final look in the fall; but all that said, we may very well be looking at the first two-varietal Monte Bello in some two decades … Exciting? I think so, though not necessarily just because of the architecture per se, but rather, because the wine is currently showing … well … deliciously! Im particularly happy with the heightened presence of merlot in the new blend, as I think it is bringing a tremendous amount to the aesthetic table; the blend is currently seventy-one percent cabernet sauvignon and twenty-nine percent merlot.

When I first set out to really analyze the ’08 sample, I tried to hew to my “standard” methodology of assessing appearance, aromatics, front, mid-palate, and finish, and despite my somewhat giddy travails, I did manage to maintain at least that degree of methodological consistency. That said, restraining my “standard” prose proved far more difficult; much as I would have loved to keep my winespeak within the realm of the accepted aroma-wheel world of descriptors, I found myself instead writing the most goofily euphoric lines; some embarrassing, some nonsensical, most at least hopefully informative (if not for tangible accuracy than at least in spirit), and in the end, I decided to go ahead and stick with the “raw” version; meaning, I’ve decided to include the early and perhaps rather more surreal drafts of my attempts to craft tasting notes on this ’08 Monte Bello assemblage.

So here goes (and one last disclaimer, this is essentially the first-wave lunatic visceral reaction to this wine; no pretense to accuracy or objectivity is implied, rather, this should only be construed/received/interpreted as a record of one taster’s reveries in mid-taste …)

2008 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello
(“Final Assemblage” as of 5.15.09, tasted 5.22.09)

Appearance:Beautiful inky blackness, squid ink blackness, black grape grapeness, dark plum rolled in ashes, a black grape dropped in hot tar … such a glaze, a Karo glaze, molasses legs!

Aromatics:Pecan pie and street vendor pralines? Nutty sweetness? Certainly baked and herbed poultry, meaning clove. And Calimyrna fig, naturally. And how many shades of smoke here? Campfire smoke mostly, but also fireplace, firepit, and just plain smoke. What kind of smoke? Smoke smoke. Umami smoke. Pipe smoke? No! Cocoa smoke! Is there such a thing? There is here! Woody as well, the wood without the smoke, perhaps even cedar-y …

Front:INTENSE acidity! And an unexpected gardens-worth of herbs both fresh and dried. And pistachio nuts! Cassis and anise, obviously, and even brandy’d apples … Naturally there is blackberry as well, and some black currant …

Mid-palate: Toffee notes, and just completely mouth-covering tannins. And pressed flowers. And more nuttiness, but now the sweet and roasted nuts are giving way to roasted almonds, but dry-roasted, and most definitely not candied. And again the anise, or is it now licorice? Well, no doubt about the chicory …

Finish: Tannins and acids to spare, but all in balance, so excellent accordingly! Fruit becoming herb, earth becoming spice, intricate to the Nth, and quite a long, three-hundred-and-sixty-degree’d circumference of components; put another way, an oenologic erector set painstakingly crafting an esophageal passageway from taste buds to tummy, clinical in its precision. I stand humbled, submissive, mastered.

Man, I think I really love this wine …

I read this to my missus just now, and I asked her, I said, “What do you think, is it too weird?” And she said, “I don’t know, but I just poured myself some more!”

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Posted in Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Monte Bello, Tasting Notes, Varietals & Blends | Leave a Comment »

Crystal Ball Persuasion: This Weekend’s Flights …

May 7, 2009

We’ve got a great selection of wines on our tasting flights this weekend, and I thought I’d just run through a few of the wines on offer that I’m particularly looking forward to tasting and to showcasing:

2007 Geyserville

“As we blind-tasted, Geyserville’s unique character seemed clearest in thirty-nine of the lots. The exceptional quality of carignane and petite sirah argued for their full inclusion; percentages are comparable to the superb 1991 vintage. By year’s end, the blend was aging in air-dried american oak barrels. Sensuous structure and opulent fruit give this fine wine immediate appeal. Firm tannins and acidity assure its longevity over the next ten to twelve years. EB (10/08)”

(Both internal and industry respone to this vintage has been almost preposterously positive to date; this could be one of the all-time classic Geyservilles! –cw)

2004 Oltranti

“In 1987, Niccolo and Flora Oltranti purchased the old Mazzoni Home Ranch. Above the surviving nineteenth century vines were several abandoned hillside vineyards, which Niccolo and son Paul restored, replanting to zinfandel. These young vines have now matured, and make up eighty-five percent of the 2004. Oltranti is an exceptional site. Despite the vines’ relative youth, they have produced a wine redolent of exotic spice and rich, dark fruit. Enjoyable now, this excellent, full-bodied zinfandel will develop fully over the next five to seven years. EB/PD (11/05)”

(April’s ATP release, this will be the first weekend that this wine is available to the general public! — cw)

2005 Syrah Lytton West

“Pressed at six days on average, the free run wines completed a natural malolactic fermentation and were racked to barrel. Assemblage was determined in late spring by blind tasting of the eight possible components. The oldest parcels produced wine of exceptional depth and density; the younger yielded focused fruit and soft, balanced tannins. Five lots were chosen for this fine syrah, and aged for a total of twenty-one months in air-dried american oak. Enjoyable now for its forward, spicy fruit, it will develop greater complexity over the next ten years. EB (5/07)”

(see my previous post! — cw)

2005 Monte Bello

“Pressed at 8 days on average, 40% of the wine went through natural malolactic in barrel, the rest in small fermentors. Assemblage began in February. After several weeks blind tasting, we made a barrel each of 3 different blends. Petit verdot and cabernet franc were added immediately, another merlot and 3 cabernets in May, some rich first-press wine in December. 17 months in new air-dried american oak—from French and American coopers—has contributed spice and texture. This is a superb vintage. Beautifully balanced, it will continue to develop over several decades. EB/PD (3/07)“

(Undeniably still a baby at this point, but double-decanted out of a 375ml first thing in the morning allows for a pretty delectable sneak preview! — cw)

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Flagship Fandango: A Geyserville Vertical

May 4, 2009

To put it mildly, today was a great day. Today was a great day. There. That was nice. It just felt good to affirm it one more time. Why was today a great day? Because I got to engage in an 8-vintage vertical of Ridge Geyserville. That’s why. And it was great. Thus, making it a great day.

Now, I’ll disclaim the notes that follow by saying this wasn’t a particularly languid and relaxed tasting; rather, I moved through it pretty quickly, and accordingly, rather than trying to capture an over-arching full-blown profile of each vintage, I’ll instead be striving to identify the characteristics that, to my palate at least, differentiated one vintage from another; put another way, I’m after the mole on a woman’s lip (Marilyn Monroe?), the spice in a fusion noodle dish (Tarragon?), the one-note solo that somehow works (Neil Young’s guitar solo on “Cinnamon Girl”?).

So, let’s get down to business, starting with the earliest vintage in this particular vertical:

1992 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Remarkably intact for its age, with a full-bodied profile; plush fruit, still-vibrant acidity, and very supple tannins. Oddly enough, my first draw of the bouquet conjured up something along the lines of a home-cooked Minestrone soup! Meaning, I got some richly integrated, wine-infused, slow-cooked tomato sauce notes (nothing vegetal or stewed mind you, just a deep, rich, warm and sweet rusticity), along with the crisp snap of fresh peas, the slightly rooty spryness of unpeeled carrots, and a darkly burnished wheatiness. And that was just the aromatics! On the palate, the acids are currently reigning over the tannins, making for a vibrant yet elegant mouthfeel that has some excellently mouth-watering food-pairing potential, and the spices are in a close race with the fruit, with the virtuous ripeness of the fruit taking the tale of the tape at the back of the palate, leaving an almost sweet quality lingering down the finish. Overall, highly drinkable, right here, right now!

1993 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Unquestionably a dark knight sort of character (in terms of aesthetic range as regards metaphorical “coloration”), this very enjoyable vintage expresses aromatic notes running the gamut from the perhaps the more familiar plum, licorice and cedar, to the rather more obscure fudge, brownies, and blood orange. It has a beautiful dark cherry hue with undertones of ripe plum, and a deep crimson limn in the glass. As the wine moves from front to back of palate, it leaves in its elegant wake sparkles of sweet cherry succulence, and a counterbalancing eucalyptal spice. The mouthfeel is soft and supple, yet quite fleshy, almost plush, and the warm spicy second-tier layers are nicely counterbalanced by a slightly sandal-woody nose.

1994 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Notable for having the least alcohol of these first three vintages (I tasted this wine alongside 1992 and 1993 vintages), yet showing comparatively slightly more heat, or should I say warmth, essentially in the form of a long, warm, chest-filling finish. Not obstreperously so, not by any means, and I think I probably wouldn’t have noted it at all, save for the fact that I was tasting in context. But again, I did notice it as a structural component. As to the other architectural contributants, I would say that tannins have receded to a point of extreme subtlety, dare I say, gentleness, while the vibrancy on offer from the acidity is still youthfully prevalent; quite pleasantly so, in fact. And as is often the case with Geyserville, I find that the fruit is taking somewhat of a comparative backseat here, with the aesthetic emphasis being more on the secondary and tertiary layers of herbs, spices, and a fundamentally tempered rusticity . Overall, this makes for a slightly leaner, more elegant offering than either the ’92 or the ’93, but conversely, this vintage also begs for food pairing in perhaps a more insistent fashion than do either of the other two vintages; higher-fat-content dishes in particular will benefit from pairing with this wine: cheeses such as triple cream bries or goudas, cream or butter-based sauces, meats such as duck or sausage, or coconut-milk-based curries.

1996 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

At first sniff, I was hollering “Umami!” with this vintage; yes, there are a great many other components at work here, commonalities that thrive across all the vintages, but what really struck me about this particular offering was the savoriness of the aromatics; I got bacon, teriyaki, and tobacco right out of the gate. All this was counterbalanced with some nice cocoa notes on the palate, and definitely some raisin and currant characteristics as well. Can one say a wine is discordant in a good way? If so, that’s what I’ll say; I found this wine fascinating, if somewhat uneven, for its singular combination of ripe, mature fruit, and pleasantly youthful acids and tannins, all reconciled by the unmistakable yet intangible presence of the umami factor.

1997 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Ok. If I HAVE to, and I mean I don’t really WANT to, but if I HAVE to, I think, at least for today’s edition, this was probably my, and again, I don’t REALLY want to do this, but probably, this was my favorite. It’s ripe, it’s full-bodied, it’s supple, it’s smooth, it’s warm, it’s hot but not HOT, it’s complex but integrated, etc. There is a certain woodiness at work that escaped me in terms of trying to capture its relationship to the rest of the components, and the viscosity in the glass bowl is somewhat mysteriously intense for a wine that hits the palate in a decidedly medium-weight way, but overall, a very exciting wine to taste.

OK. That’s the 90′s. Now for a trio of 21st century offerings …

2001 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Such a deep, deep purple coloration! And what a beautiful raspberry limn! Just beautiful to look at … The aromatics are certainly notable for a sneaky little strain of smokiness, a little bit of char-grilled character, and a slight hint of tar. Oddly enough though, it’s elegant, and I couldn’t help but think that I ought to get myself home and grill some salmon for my missus! Meaning, it’s deep, but it’s gentle. A boxer with a heart of gold? Something like that … It’s also got some lovely sweet fruit, LOTS of chocolate tones, and the tannins are admirably intact.

2002 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Want to open a younger Geyserville tonight? This is your choice, I swear it! Try it, and if you don’t like it, bring the bottle in, and I’ll finish the rest for you! It’s got deep, red plum notes, gracefully applied hints of leather and black licorice, and there’s just a preposterously “pretty” layer of candied fruit on offer as well.  I’d like to note that our president and COO Mark Vernon tasted this wine recently at Evvia (in Palo Alto, CA) in the company of rotisserie lamb, and he was, to say the least, rather infectiously enthused about the pairing! It’s just gorgeous, pure and simple, in that bright, playful sort of way; it’s ever-so-slightly exotic (mango chutney?), ever-so-slightly-on-the-edge-of-being-cloyingly-sweet (beautifully enticing viscosity on the early palate in particular), and yet it holds its own as a classically refined example of what makes Geyserville so unique.

2003 Geyserville

The baby of the bunch, to say the least. The vintage would lead you to think so,  the taste will confirm it. One can almost FEEL the layers that are due to emerge over time, but they’re just not quite there yet. There is certainly one great dimension already on offer, and it’s a fine, fine dimension, but if you, like me, and like so many others, look to Geyserville for its masterful conflagration of multiple dimensions, then I would recommend patience with this vintage; the true rewards are yet to come.

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