Posts Tagged ‘Petite Sirah’

#Harvest2012: The Rhones Are Coming!

October 8, 2012

If you were visiting the Monte Bello Tasting Room on Sunday, and you happened to be up on our knoll at about 2pm in the afternoon, you would have gotten quite the visual treat. Looking down on the road below, you would have seen a grape truck making its way to the Monte Bello Winery carrying a delivery of Grenache and Petite Sirah from Sonoma; quite a journey, to say the least!

As to myself, I headed up to the winery just behind the grape truck, and was able to catch the fruit as it was being delivered from gondola to conveyor; first up was the Grenache …

The fruit came down from a section of the Lytton Springs Estate known as Lytton West, seen here via our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Nestled in between the East Bench Vineyards and Lytton East (where the Lytton Springs winery is located), Lytton West is a singularly weathered and uniquely diverse planting that features a fantastic mix of varietals; two acres of which are devoted to Grenache …

Here are winemakers Eric Baugher and Shun Ishikubo, patiently pitchforkin’ the fruit onto the belt …

The day’s other delivery was Petite Sirah from Geyserville …

Even from my distant vantage point high atop the gondola-laden truck bed, overlooking  David Gates (VP of Vineyard Operations), Shun Ishikubo (Assistant Winemaker), and Joshua Smith (Harvest Intern) at the belt, I could clearly see the knockout intensity of the grape color; no mistaking this fruit for anything BUT Petite Sirah!

There are over 8 acres of Petite Sirah planted at Geyserville, as can be seen here in a still image for our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Last week’s heat continues to impact the vineyards, as #Harvest2012 pushes ever-onwards, ever-faster. It’s been a decade at least since we’ve seen a year like this, an the excitement borders on overwhelming as everyone races to bring the fruit in on time.

I was in a meeting with Paul Draper this morning, and in discussing the quality of this year’s fruit, he repeatedly used the word “exceptional.” Be excited. Be very, very excited.

#Harvest2012.

Feel it.

The Academy of Saint Ridge in the Fields

August 3, 2012

Vineyard people are funny. They have very unique senses of humor.

Some people send you an e-mail with the word “funny” in the subject line, and you open it, and you get a picture of a kitty with an uzi (a Kuzi?).

Not really that funny.

More the sort of thing you’d find taped to a wall in the back room of a doctor’s office. Taped up with an old piece of scotch tape. An old piece of scotch tape that has a sad strand of secretarial hair trapped under it.

But then you get e-mails with subject lines like “Inversion Layers are Funny.”

Take today, for example. Today, I got an e-mail from vineyard people. And the subject line was “Inversion Layers are Funny.” That’s vineyard people humor.

Today’s e-mail was from William The Conqueror Thomas, our Viticulturist at Lytton Springs.

He was on an early morning sojourn up Spring Mountain, to the York Creek vineyards. The Burger Knoll, specifically, which is adjacent to where our Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah comes from. At the base of the hill, the temperature was 54 degrees. And it was foggy. Up at the knoll? 84 degrees. At 8:15am.

Now THAT’S funny. Vineyard people funny.

Inversion Layers are Funny.

For those who may be unaware of the term, “inversion” in this case is a deviational atmospheric occurrence in which cooler air is held to lower altitudes, with heat rising with height. In a “traditional” climatic environment, the lower region, near the earth’s surface, is warmer than the air above it, because it’s being heated from below, courtesy of the sun’s radiation warming the Earth’s surface, which in turn then warms the layer right above it. This happens via a process called convective heat transfer. However, in an inversion, this model is “inverted,” such that heat increases with altitude, leaving the lower layer as the colder by comparison. In Northern California, this phenomenon occurs courtesy of coastal ocean upwelling, an oceanographic phenomenon which essentially drops a warmer layer on top of the cooler layer. Probably the most notable visual cue that all this is happening is the fog layer; this is essentially the bifurcation point between the lower and upper layers. You can see it in the photo above quite clearly.

We get a pretty dramatic version of the inversion here at Monte Bello as well. For those of you who’ve picnicked here before, you might recognize this scene:

Monte Bello Fog: Before

Though by the time you arrived, things probably looked more like this:

Monte Bello Fog: After

And that, is Vineyard People Funny.

Legit Veraison!

July 16, 2012

“Legit Veraison.”

That’s the phrase David Gates, our VP of Vineyard Operations, just used for the subject line of a VERY EXCITING E-MAIL that I just received: Legit Veraison.

Which looks like this:

Petite Sirah at the Whitten Ranch (Geyserville) Vineyards

Veraison is a French viticulture term essentially meaning “the change of berry color.”

Physiologically, what this color change indicates is a transition from the growth of the berry, to the ripening of the berry, and a switch in focus from the dedication of the vine’s resources towards its whole growth (leaves and canes) to its berries specifically.

With this focus on the berry comes a change in how the berries are managed by the vines; prior to veraison, the focus is on ripening the seeds. Post-veraison, the focus is on the whole berry, which includes, among other physiological changes, the browning of the seeds and the progressive softening of the skin.

Vine stress comes into play here as well; lack of water to the vine means that vegetal growth (leaves and canes) slows — ideally completely by the time of veraison — which also intensifies the focus on berry ripening, and ideally results in more, (and more naturally achieved!) concentration of flavor.

What all this means as regards the actual production of wine is that, with the onset of veraison, acidity begins to decrease, and sugar levels start going up. And this, combined with a decrease in water intake, means the overall ratios shift in favor of sugar.

Which is good, because eventually, when the berry is properly ripe, it can be harvested, and then fermentation can commence. And fermentation, which is yeast acting upon sugars, results in alcohol. Sweet, sweet alcohol …

So, probably needless to say, the timing and arrival of veraison is a vitally important barometer of progress as regards the rhythm and pace of the ripening season. Late veraison, and/or uneven veraison, can be potentially disastrous for a vineyard. But a well-timed and even veraison means that we’re ideally looking forward to great rest of the growing season, with a well-timed harvest, and a successful vintage overall.

Fortunately, as Mr. Gates notes in his e-mail, today’s Legit Veraison means we are currently right on time.

So as Mr. Gates also writes, Let The Games Begin!

The Old School Is New Again …

January 26, 2012

You know it’s coming, yet somehow you won’t admit it to yourself. It’s inevitable, of course, but it’s impossible survive the days if you’re in conscious embracement of the facts. Somehow, we have to psychically suspend our realities in order to keep on keepin’ on. But all things must pass.

The news came yesterday. They’d pulled it.

The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School was removed from the website. It was over.

Fortunately, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School ain’t too far down the road!

I’ll be sure to let you know when it’s released, but in the meantime, here are some tasting notes, just to keep you going through these tough times …

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School

As you may or may not know, the Old School designation is actually part of our Geyserville estate, but as it’s a group of vines that traditionally provide fruit that ripens to a greater degree of intensity, the juice is traditionally bottled separately in small amounts under the Old School name, and released as a special winery-only offering.

Stylistically, because of the selection criteria, the Old School favors a flavor profile that can run the gamut from sweet in character (a ripe quality that presents the illusion of sweetness without any actual real and significant amount of residual sugar) to actual sweetness (featuring actual residual sugar).

The 2009 is definitely of the former ilk; while the wine is certainly rich and intensely flavored and fruit-driven, a combination of notable water-stress and early ripening during the growing season, and an aggressive and disciplined selection process at the winery (made possible courtesy of a new receiving and sorting system), have made for a wine of surprising integrity and balance.

In addition to the voluptuousness of the fruit and the generosity of the bouquet, there are strong hints of that classic Geyserville spiciness that creep into the flavor profile at just the right moments. These notes primarily come courtesy of the vineyard-blend model deployed for the assemblage of this wine; the zinfandel (at 78%) is structurally rounded out and enhanced by the inclusion of carignane and petit sirah, two classic “mixed blacks” that also form the architectural backbone of the Geyserville.  

The 2007 Old School was one of our top-selling winery-only wines last year, and while it was a sweeter, riper rendition than the 2009, I think the ’09 is poised to not only keep the ’07 fans very happy, but also accrue a whole new set of believers as well. It’s got the fruit for the ’07 set, but it’s also got the complexity, structure, and spice that should win over some converts who may not normally find themselves on the ripe side of life.

If I may say so, it’s a perfect February wine; it’s got Valentine’s Day written all over it …

On How The Reigning Dark Viticultral Prince Of All The Lands Of Cyber Monday Is Roaming The Forest Of My Palate, Slaying All Pretenders To The Throne

November 28, 2011

On How The Reigning Dark Viticultural Prince Of All The Lands Of Cyber Monday Is Roaming The Forest Of My Palate, Slaying All Pretenders To The Throne

–or–

Check your e-mail inbox, because there is a VERY GOOD Cyber Monday offer from Ridge Vineyard waiting for you there!

Coincidentally (or perhaps not!), I wish to offer some tasting notes on the 2005 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah. But first, winemaker Eric Baugher’s notes, from back in 2007:

2005 Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah
100% Petite Sirah
Bottled August 2007

A long growing season allowed the York Creek grapes to achieve intensity at modest (by today’s standards) ripeness. We picked in late September; the tight, mature, brown-stemmed clusters were perfect for a natural-yeast, whole-cluster fermentation. Extraction of color and tannin was ideal by day six, and we pressed. The natural secondary (malolactic) fermentation was complete by late November, and the wine racked to air-dried american oak barrels for aging. These fifteen barrels–one-third new, one-third three years old, one-third four years old–were combined for a special, limited petite sirah bottling, something we have not done since 2000. After twenty months in oak, the wine has gained additional richness and spice, and tannins have softened. Remarkably complex, it is approachable now, but will continue to improve with five to seven years of bottle age. EB (5/07)

And as to my thoughts today …

If you’ve had the Ridge Vineyards York Creek before, then you’ve tasted Dynamite Hill petite sirah; it’s the block on York Creek that provides the petite sirah for this long-running Ridge zinfandel. On its own, I’ve always found it to be a sort of kinder, gentler petite sirah; it’s always had the varietally correct squid-inkiness, intense tannin architecture, and deep berry profile one would expect, but it’s always come wrapped in a fairly lively and multi-colored bow.

Digging into the nose of this particular vintage, I am immediately taken in by the array of complexities on offer; most notably, the distinct note of caraway. Fascinating! Add to that the singular appearances of buckwheat flour pancake batter, blackberry preserves, and a touch of Irish Stew, and you’ve got a truly provocative bouquet on your hands, and one that leans distinctly autumnal in its overall profile.

Front-palate hits full parade mode right away; nothing is reserved, the show is on, the trumpets are blaring, drums are thumping, legs are kicking. There is a wealth of tannin architecture laid out right away, between the girders of which hangs a dense tapestry of deep blue-to-purple-to-black fruit threads.

Mid-palate shows a little of that American oak-derived dill tone , and this actually tributaries its way nicely into the caraway stream hinted at in the aromatics; in these rushing rapids is also a wealth of black herb and woody stemness; black licorice and blackstrap molasses are most prevalent as well.

The finish is still youthful to say the least, and tannins are still dominant, though there is a trickle of acidity that bobs and weaves around the pure rope of richness that runs straight down the center palate stripe.

All in all, a deeply unusual and complex spin on petite sirah, and clear proof this is a varietal capable of much more complexity that it often gets credit for. Your autumn-to-winter table will certainly be enhanced by the presence of this wine, and should you happen to go for something like, oh, I don’t know, duck cracklins and blackberry gastrique (more on this soon!), you might just achieve gourmand nirvana.

P.S. I Love You!

July 26, 2011

It’s the Ninth Annual Petite Sirah Noble Symposium today, and to celebrate, PS lovers all over the globe are tasting their favorite offerings, and tweeting their thoughts and observations. Wanna slip into the jetstream? Use #PSLove when you tweet, and use your favorite tracking method to follow the convos; Twitterfall and Tweetdeck spring to mind as good options …

Anyhow, here in my own private Ridgeland, I’ve got two bottles of wine, a loaf of Watsonville Sourdough, and my laptop; must be tasting time!

This afternoon’s performance will commence with a short set from the opening act, followed by our headliner. The 2005 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah will go on at … um … 1:23pm! Meaning, now!

2005 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah

To describe the hues of this wine as being inky and concentrated is perhaps a tad redundant, given the varietal in question, but I will say there are some lovely and shimmering bright purple highlights dancing all ’round the limn, lending an appearance of play oft missing from the juice of this notoriously squid-inky grape …  Bottled in 2007, 4 years of bottle age have definitely done some good work on the aromatics; loads of blue and black fruits, of course, but also a nice lavender and lilac layer, some berry pie sugar, a touch of cocoa powder, and a bit of anise … nicely resolving tannins at point-of-entry, pretty much devoid of the grippier, more adhesive characteristics that can sometimes plague younger renditions … a healthy if not overwhelming dose of acidity along the tongue-sides, and a jam-and-jelly viscosity down the middle make for an expansive mid-palate … the finish plays a little dirtier, with some mineral and chalk snowflaking the juice; a fair amount of flavor holds in the cheeks well after the swallow, and while the finish isn’t the lengthiest I’ve experienced, the lingering smoky notes are quite pleasant. Plus, at a polite 13.5% ABV, there is no residual heat to obfuscate the primary fruit, of which there is still a good abundance, at least of the darker sorts, particularly blackberry.

And now, the main event! This is a wine of extreme distinction, and one certain to go down in Ridge history as a legendary release. Why? Well, it’s certainly delicious (full confession, I’ve been tasting this wine for days!), but beyond that, it’s also our VERY FIRST NATIONALLY RELEASED PETITE SIRAH!

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Petite Sirah

Tremendously viscous in the bowl; virtually legless; meaning it’s all glaze and no run-down … as above, a deep, deep, deep dark belly, with just a hint of dancing mulberry highlights in the limn and on the surface … Definitely young on the nose, with just a hint of funk still needing to blow off, but below that lives an utterly ambrosial, paradisiacal bouquet ripe with bubbling blueberry slump fruit (I think you’d have to be from Maine — which I’m not, by the way – to get that reference!) abutting some decadent caramel cremes and a hickory stick’s worth of bark and woodsiness … God, this is going to be a good wine! It’s awful young though, no doubt about it; the tannins, while exquisitely drawn and acted, are certainly prominent; it’s a testament to their refinement that they don’t in fact feel stickily exposed, but rather, already manage to lay comfortingly on the tongue like a favorite winter duvet … Just a wealth of fruit information in the mid-palate; all of it dark and robust, but astonishingly complex all the same: I’m talkin’ fig, plum, mulberry, currant, black cherries, etc. Code name: Delicious. Drinking this wine is like going back in time to a room above a Haight-Ashbury Head Shop; there are black light posters on the wall, someone is working a really big bong for all it’s worth, Hendrix is on the stereo, there is some funky Indian incense burning, and you’re chilled out on the coach with an acoustic guitar that has a black lacquer finish, and you’re fingerpicking something doleful and southern while you watch your friend make out with a very groovy chick of some sort of compendial and indescribably alluring and cocoa-y ethnicity, thinking to yourself that if the sun never comes up again, you’re going to be ok, because swimming by yourself below the cliffs at the edge of the Richmond District in the dark is as zen-pure as your mojo-hungry soul can handle … and you’re picking that black git-box, and your friend and his galpal are now fully pretzled, and the incense is done but lingering, and Hendrix fades away, and the first tinkling gypsy piano notes of “Love Street” trip fantastic from your long-player, and nobody spilled the bong, and you have a waking dream about black plums, and somewhere in the future, I understand you.

The Beet Generation -or- We Got The Beet -or- Bestill My Beeting Heart -or- Grilled Beets And Petite Sirah, Oh My!

June 19, 2009

So there I was, standing in the kitchen, trying to decide what to make for dinner, and my missus said, “That reminds me, I need to use those beets …” But her particular and special treatment of beets is a more autumnal dish, so I pondered a bit, and then asked out loud, “Can you grillbeets?” It seemed rather unlikely. So I googled “grilled beets.” Turns out, it’s been done! So I went to work. (Photo at the end!)

First off, these were golden beets, fresh from the Santa Cruz Farmer’s Market. I chopped the greens off, and put them in boiling water. Then I put butter and olive in a skillet, and hit the heat to medium. When it was good and hot, I tossed in walnuts, and gobs of chipotle powder. Ummm, pan-fried chipotle walnuts … Next, I turned the oven on to 350, then got out some herbed Silver Goat chevre, sliced it into thick discs, and laid the discs in a pie dish. When the oven was ready, in went the discs of herbed chevre. Ummm, baked herbed chevre discs …

The beets took forever to soften up a bit, but once they did, I brought them out, rinsed them in cold water, and used a towel to rub the skins off. Beautiful! Then I sliced them into thick discs, roughly the same size as the chevre, and tossed them into a mixing bowl. I poured in a double-dollop of olive oil, and a fistful of herbes de provence salt, and tossed away. When they were good and slathered up, out they came, and on to the panini grill, which was set to medium.

While I waited for the beets, I took out of the oven the baked herb chevre, and put in the oven an oval of garlic-and-Parmesan flatbread (whole wheat dough, minced garlic, and shaved Parmesan). Checking the beets, I decided the temperature was too low; they weren’t getting properly charred. But soon enough, things were cooking! I turned them halfway, to of course achieve the cross-hatch (but then I got impatient and hungry, so the second cross was admittedly faint by comparison) …

Last step was the dressing; I went for a creamy mustard vinaigrette of sorts; I say of sorts because, consistency-wise, it was almost to a hollandaise level of creaminess, less of a dressing really. Anyhow, I used spicy french dijon, a vegetarian mayonnaise (I prefer the vegetarian over “traditional” for both consistency and acidity), rice wine vinegar, white wine (yes, the ’07 Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay!), olive oil (plus the olive oil and chipotle residue from the walnut skillet!), and herbes de provence, all heavily whisked.

Don’t forget about the flatbread! (I said to myself then, and to myself now …) Out it came, browned, but with the crust still soft enough to cut. Which I did. With a pair of kitchen scissors, I cut the flat bread into long thin strips.

Time to plate the dish. First, a bed of chopped organic romaine and shredded green cabbage. Then, the pan-fried chipotle walnuts, scattered. Then two overlaid concentric circles of baked herbed chevre and grilled beets. Then, around the perimeter, the garlic and Parmesan flatbread strips. Over all this, a plush drizzle of the dressing. Excellent …

Now, the weird bit; what wine do you suppose we paired this with? Petite Sirah! Specifically the Ridge Vineyards 2002 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah. Not normally a wine I would think of for this sort of a meal; the dish would seem to beg white wine, or perhaps an elegant pinot. But a big, inky, chalky, muscular Petite Sirah? Heavens to murgatroid … The thing is, we just really wanted to drink this wine. I mean really … So we single-decanted, and let it aerate about half-an-hour … When it was ready, out came the plates, in went the wine (Riedels …), and down sat we. The consensus? They co-existed perfectly, if somewhat independently, meaning the dish and the wine didn’t, as my missus likes to say, do that thing;that thing that happens when a pairing magically becomes more than the sum of its parts. But the meal stood up quite well to the wine, and it actually brought out some florality and spice that I hadn’t previously noted in the Petite Sirah before. This was probably the best thing about the pairing, that the dish actually engaged the wine in a way I hadn’t seen before. And despite seeming like lighter fare, the dish was actually a rather hearty offering, courtesy of the creamy drizzle, the cheese, and the umami savoriness from the charr on the beets. So they made a great couple, this dish, and that wine, with one particularly informing the other. We finished the wine down to the last drop, and scraped the plates clear (I’ll confess to finishing my missus’ flatbread; she was full!)

And that’s the scoop …

All in all, a very, very pleasant repast. See below (please click for full size) …

GrilledBeets

An Extraordinary Picnic -or- What Was The Last Year Ridge Made A Barbera?

June 4, 2009

Ok, in the service of full disclosure, I’ll admit that I strongly considered titling this post “A Picnic Partaking Of Particularly Pleasing Petite Sirah, Breathtakingly Buoyant Barbera, and Captivatingly Contemporary Cabernet That Confounds One’s Considerations Of Chronology And The Calendar!”

But I didn’t, because although I happen to enjoy the oft-maligned deployment of alliteration, the link was simply too long to be practical …

Anyhow, on to the subject at hand, which was a delightful picnic area tasting of some extraordinary wines; a tasting that emerged from my burgeoning friendship with William Powell and his lovely wife Joan. (You may remember William as the provider of so many of the vintage RIDGE labels that have adorned past posts on this blog.) William offered to pledge a couple significant offerings to the endeavor, and I quite happily agreed to “match” him as best as I could.

By the way, if you’ve not been to the Monte Bello picnic area, here’s a shot:

IMG_3591

Anyhow, this all began when the discussion of whether RIDGE had made Barbera before came up; not only has RIDGE made Barbera before, and not only does Mr. Powell have the labels in his collection, but he actually had a bottle in his cellar! It was the 1996 Barbera, from our Lytton West designation. So that was the beginning of the tasting. As we were just about to release the 2004 Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah (which Mr. Powell very much wanted to taste!), it was decided that he would bring in a vintage bottle of York Creek Petite Sirah to “match” the pre-release 2004 that I offered; he came up with a bottle from 1978! So I had to go to the well one more time, and came up with a 1977 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, and these four bottles became our tasting. Here are shots of the three out-of-the-cellar bottles:

Hopefully needless to say, all the wines were showing fascinating qualities, though each with its own idiosyncrasies. The 2004 Ridge Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah is, to me, “classic” Petite Sirah from this designation, with all the muscularity this implies; the tannin architecture alone bespeaks a long, long future for this deep, inky, dark berry-driven wine. The 1996 Ridge Barbera was perhaps the true treat of the bunch, for its rarity and scarcity certainly, but also courtesy of the tremendous buoyancy this wine showed; loads of fruit, outstanding vibrancy from the acidity, and a full panoply of aromatic floralities. The 1978 York Creek Petite Sirah was proof-in-the-bottle of just how strong, how firm, and how long-lived these wines can be; the tannins alone could soften for another decade still! (This is EXACTLY the sort of wine my Dad loves to drink …) The 1977 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon was probably the great challenge of the bunch, at least right out of the bottle; not a ton of fruit emerging, fairly soft tannins, and a fairly strong presence from the acidity. Aromatically, it was mostly mature fruit and a pronounced rusticity. That said, after 1-2 hours in the decanter, the earth blew off, some lovely dark fruit emerged, and the acidity moved into harmonic balance with the tannins, making for a wonderful offering! (Note to self, always decant this wine 1-2 hours before serving!). It’s certainly a decidedly mature wine, but very much still in the range of pourability.

Thank you to William and Joan Powell for their graciousness in sharing these wines with us (as well as the home-baked bread!), and I especially want to thank them for being so accommodating with our entire staff; each member was able to go out one-by-one to the Powell’s table and enjoy an “audience” with both the Powell’s and the wines, and I believe it’s safe to say everyone enjoyed the experience immensely!


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