Posts Tagged ‘Kim Korupp’

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting In Pictures, Praise, and Prose …

March 22, 2013

We don’t do a great many events in any given year up here on our mountain, so when we do stage them, we try to thoroughly imbue them with all the passion and gravitas our four-sizes-that-day wine-hearts can muster.

Our annual trio of Monte Bello Collector events are as special to us as anything we do, and of the three, the Component Tasting is quite possibly the most magical of all.

It is as unique a wine happening as I can imagine, and I believe it affords our Monte Bello Collector members one of the rather more singularly experiential ways by which to get to know the wine that will one day be theirs.

The Monte Bello is essentially what is oft-referred to as a Bordeaux blend; meaning, it is composed of an assemblage of varietals traditionally associated with the famed Bordeaux region in France; in our case, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

As tasters and collectors of our Monte Bello know, the percentages in the assemblage vary year to year, depending primarily on the mercurial contributions of a nuanced and complex panoply of sub-microclimatic blocks within the larger vineyard borders of our mountain estate.

What the Component Tasting afford collectors the opportunity to do is experience barrel samples of the individual components prior to The Final Assemblage, and on top of that, to taste The First Assemblage; meaning, essentially, to preview the results of our first go-around with building what will eventually become The Final Assemblage – i.e. the Monte Bello.

[For a full explanation of how the assemblage process works and plays out, please click here.]

The Monte Bello Collector program is quite literally a “futures” program, but for our members, the future begins now.

Or should I say, it began on March 9th …

Comin' down the mountain, before it all begins ...

Comin’ down the mountain, before it all begins …

It was a beautiful morning, alive with the light of Mother Nature’s wide smile warming our Earth-Ball’s still-sleeping belly …

The mountain, in the morning …

In but a few hours, the very knoll itself would be reverberating underneath a march of glass-in-handed revelers …

The tables await ...

The tables await …

…but for now, the empty tables waited, patient.

For this …

David Gates & Eric Baugher & everyone ...

David Gates & Eric Baugher & everyone …

Quite a transformation, to say the least, but in all the merry hysteria there remained a transcendent and sensorial calm pervading everyone and everything. It was in the old Torre Winery Barn …

Still life with Michael ...

Still life with Michael …

The Old Torre Winery Barn ...

The Old Torre Winery Barn …

Fatted Calf's legendary charcuterie slicer ...

Fatted Calf’s legendary charcuterie slicer …

And it was under the umbrellas …

The Knoll & The Umbrellas & The Happiness ...

The Knoll & The Umbrellas & The Happiness …

MBCI_PatioUnderTheUmbrellas

Under the umbrellas …

You might even say Monte Bello had Aloha

Aloha, Monte Bello ...

Aloha, Monte Bello …

A few more images from a wonderful weekend …

Torre Winery Barn, and everyone in it ...

Torre Winery Barn, and everyone in it …

The tasting bar ...

The tasting bar …

Barrel Sample ...

Barrel Sample …

Table Three, Cabernet Franc ...

Table Three, Cabernet Franc …

Table Two, Petit Verdot ...

Table Two, Petit Verdot …

Still life with Antonio ...

Still life with Antonio …

The esteemed Richard Jennings (RJOnWine.com), taking notes ...

The esteemed Richard Jennings (RJOnWine.com), taking notes …

RJOnWine.com taking notes, detail ...

RJOnWine.com taking notes, detail …

Still Life with Kyle ...

Still Life with Kyle …

Still life with Jenny ...

Still life with Jenny …

It's Not You, It's Brie ...

It’s Not You, It’s Brie …

MBCI_FattedCalfCharcuterieSlicer

Charcuterie by Fatted Calf …

Eric Baugher, hosting …

Eric Baugher, pouring …

Paul Draper & Eric Baugher ...

Paul Draper & Eric Baugher …

David Gates & Eric Baugher ...

David Gates & Eric Baugher …

Still life with ring, bottle, and shades ...

Still life with ring, bottle, and shades …

The 2012 Monte Bello, for now ...

The 2012 Monte Bello, for now …

2012 Monte Bello crystal ...

Crystal …

~

I wish to conclude this post with beautiful words of praise from two of our wonderful members …

There is no doubt the wines poured were excellent, showing great character and promising a long life. We can all agree that the weather was stunning and made Sunday one of the most beautiful days we have spent at Ridge in years. But it is the Ridge Monte Bello tasting room team that put the life into the affair. This team worked all day to host the hundreds of us that came to enjoy.  And with praise equal to the wine and the weather, Rene and I extend our sincere thanks to the whole team for making Sunday one of the finest days in our Ridge memories. They are what makes days like this wonderful. — Les and Rene

To Les & Rene, to the team you so kindly speak of, and to everyone who made this event so special, I wish to offer the deepest of bows.

Thank you.

~

By name, the event hosts:

Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, David Gates, Shun Ishikubo, Karen Leeds, Kyle Theriot, Antonio Favela, Emma Henkens, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kathryn Thompson, Kim Korupp, Lori Monteleone, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Townsend, Cecilia Aguilar, Jamie Lesperance, Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson.

The New Dusi Ranch Is Here!!!

January 13, 2013

For 35 years now, the ATP branch of our Wine Club has been busy contributing limited-production rareties to the Ridge Vineyards wine canon; introducing such fabled designations as Old School, Mazzoni, and Jimsomare to the vineyard lexicon, and showcasing comparatively under-the-radar varietals like Carignane to great and palate-opening effect.

One of the longest-running and most storied designations in Ridge’s small-production pantheon is the Dusi Ranch; a designation that, while now comfortably enshrined in the ATP annals, actually predates the club! Founded on vines planted in 1923, and tended since 1944 by Benito Dusi (who was then 11 years old!), this is as unique an old-vine Zinfandel property as California has to offer.

Ridge Vineyards produced its first Dusi Ranch wine in 1967, making this new release, the 2010 Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, the 43rd vintage in a long-line of legendary wines.

Many of you may know this fruit without necessarily realizing it. Members of the Zlist tine of our Wine Club trident, for example, have been consuming its offerings in the guise of our Paso Robles designation for years. Paso is indeed where these vines are located, but the Dusi Ranch label is a comparatively rarefied release. While the Paso Robles zinfandel is a comparatively larger-production release, and accordingly distributed across a sizeable swath of our wholesale landscape, at just over 900 cases, the Dusi Ranch is a dictionary-definition limited-production release.

The question likely brewing in your bean right now is; what drives the selection process as regards whether fruit from the Dusi vineyards goes into the Paso Robles designation, or the Dusi Ranch label? The answer, as with anything Ridge, is  complex, and often even arguably inconsistent, in that, at the end of the day, the only formula is that there is no formula. But if one had to make generalizations, one could probably say that when growing season stars align in such a fashion as to produce certain parcels of a particular and singular intensity and concentration, those blocks will often be parsed out and allocated to the Dusi side; meaning, the Dusi is probably most generally associated with a kind of Paso-That-Goes-To-Eleven style.

For the 2010 selection, as winemaker Eric Baugher notes on the wine’s back label, fruit from only the “most-stressed old vines” was selected for the bottling. In vineyard parlance, for those of you who might not be familiar, vine stress in a state in which a vine is, for lack of a better term, struggling in some fashion. Struggling for water, for nutrients, for survival. 

Vine stress is a subject all its own, to say the least, but in simplest form, productively managed vine stress is a sort of vineyard holy grail; not enough stress induces a sort of viticultural sloth that produces weak, indistinct, personality-less and timid juice. Too much stress will cause a vine to flat-out shut down, and produce, well, nothing. But just the right amount of vine stress can produce juice of great intensity, compression, concentration, and complexity. And it will do so comparatively “naturally.” I put the term in quotes because it’s a hot-button term these days, and I don’t wish to wage in its convoluted waters. But suffice it to say, the point is to tap & manage the “natural”  forces and machinations of the vineyard to produce intensity and complexity without retroactive processing in the winery.

So, in hewing strictly to fruit coming off of “stressed” vines, Ridge is able to produce a wine of a markedly concentrated and intense nature, without relying on additives or overtly manipulative processes to do so. For those of who who prefer your wine details to run deep, here’s the full detail:

Benito Dusi Vineyard grapes, hand harvested.
Destemmed and crushed.
Fermented on the native yeasts, followed by full malolactic on the naturally occurring bacteria.
Minimum effective sulfur (35ppm at crush, 68 ppm over the course of aging).
Pad filtered at bottling.
In keeping with our philosophy of minimal intervention, this is the sum of our actions.

And that’s it! Everything else you taste, is just good ol’ grape juice.

10zdr1

And speaking of taste, I spent some time yesterday with our illustrious Monte Bello Hospitality Team, tasting and talking through this wine, and I’d like to share with you some of their impressions:

2010 Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel

Regarding appearance, the wine was highlighted for its “dark rich hue in the glass”; reminiscent to one taster of eggplant, and another dark plum. And all but one singled garnet out as a dominant visual tone.

As to aromatics, impressions were diverse: florality and spice were common notations, with fruit notes running a gamut from Montmorency cherry to currant to apple peel, and spice from baked sage to cocoa.

All tasters noted the vibrancy of the acidity on the mouthfeel, and were clearly pleasantly surprised by the seemingly unanticipated freshness. Responses to the tannin profile were largely united around the summation that tannins were smooth, coated, and integrated.

Summarial analysis was both diverse and unified; united around a general sense of “fruit-forwardness,” but unique as regards specific characteristics. One wrote of the finish as having a “hint of sweetness interestingly off-set by a subtle earthiness”; another described the profile as “juicy”; and still another described the finish as “long” and “velvety smooth.”

If I might offer my own summation, I’d say this wine is particularly notable for its excellent and expert reconciliation of ripe and authentically warm-climate fruit with a strident and bright acidity. I am, in general, not often a purchaser and drinker of zinfandels that run to a riper, warmer, sweeter style, but of this particular wine, I am truly a fan; if one wants a fruit-forward zinfandel that is still controlled, precise, and perfectly balanced; one that reconciles ripeness to acidity, fruit to spice, viscosity to velvet, then one should definitely consider the 2010 Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel.

Thank you to our tasters: Kirsten Anderson, Barry Campbell, Antonio Favela, Kim Korupp, and Peter Yaninek!

Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting Event: The 4488 Wrap!

March 12, 2012

Monte Bello Noir?

It was a dark and stormy night.

Except it wasn’t.

What it actually was, was a warm and sunny morning, with the low sun casting rays through the gauze of morning haze that lightly veiled the vineyards as I walked down towards the Old Torre Family Barn …

We couldn’t have asked for a better day, and the wine gods were smiling.

At that moment, with the mountain sounds closed to all but the gossip of birds and the rustle of the breezes betwixt the gentle crop-cover tendrils, it was hard to believe how many people would soon be joining us for the Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting…

But the lure of a tasting this unique is strong. Taste, grasshopper, the wine is good …

Or should I say, grasshoppers …

In addition to the beauty of the location, the deliciousness of the culinary offerings, and the singular caliber and exclusivity of the wines, one of the greatest appeals of this event is the opportunity to engage with members of our production team. Winemaker Eric Baugher, seen here with Kim Korupp (most excellent Monte Bello Retail Sales & Hospitality staffer), is a legendarily generous host …

…to whom guests come in droves, notebooks and pens in hand.

We were particularly pleased this year to have a new member of the production team join us for the Component Event festivities. He is Kyle Theriot, and he is now our Monte Bello viticulturist, and this was his very first Collector event as a host!

In addition to the excitement generated around the opportunity to taste barrel samples of the Monte Bello components prior to final assemblage …

… The event is also a great way to enjoy some of the finest of Northern California’s culinary offerings. Each year, we choose three of our fave producers, and we feature their wares at all three Monte Bello Collector Events. This year, Gayle’s Bakery in Capitola provided our breads, Cowgirl Creamery provided our cheeses, and Daniel Cote and the team at The Chef’s Chateau provided the charcuterie …

For the carnivores amongst ye, ye might wish to note that the salami was actually made with Monte Bello, and the pâté is topped with dried cherries re-hydrated with Geyserville Essence. I’m just sayin …

Anyhow, as the day progressed, it only became ever more incomparably beautiful …

There is nothing quite like the sparkle of Monte Bello sun on a Riedel wine glass …

It even brings a smile to the faces of our hard-working staff. For example, even though most excellent host Jenny Merit will likely be suffering wine-pourer’s elbow by the end of the day, her spirit remains simply irrepressible …

Something about the wines, perhaps …

The barn that is the locational epicenter of the event was built at the turn of the century by the Torre family; it was their winery, and the first 8 vintages of Ridge were made there as well. It’s a great space to begin with, and tasting within those hallowed walls definitely goes a long way towards helping one deeply internalize the historical narrative of our wines, and the story of our lands …

In a temporary lull, you’ll see it come across the faces of our staff; the depth of it all, the weight, the history, the story. Peter Yaninek is just as krinkly-eyed and kindly a host as one could ever hope for (and deeply knowledgeable and passionate as well!), and as euphorically reverential a viticultural mendicant as anyone who’s ever strode the mountain or lifted a bottle of Ridge, but in the temporary quiet of a non-pouring moment, the gravitas returns …

While the tenets of Responsible Hospitality mandate a mitigated, modulated, and controlled dispensation of tastes, with nothing left to chance as regards the precision of the pours …

… nothing can in fact diminish the enthusiasm with which those tastes are enjoyed. Take winemaker Eric Baugher, for example; he’s not just an employee, he’s a fan!

And he’s not the only one …

(if you look closely in the pic above, you can spot the host of the very great Stay Rad Wine Blog!)

(And above is Assistant Winemaker Shun Ishikubo, talkin’ shop with none other than The Pepper Man!)

Why, even Mark Vernon, the President of Ridge Vineyards, got in on the act! He’s not just the President, he’s a fan!

While the Old Torre Winery Barn was certainly the locational epicenter of the event (courtesy of our pouring not only the four components, but also the 2011 Monte Bello First Assemblage AND the soon-to-be-released 2009 Monte Bello!), the Monte Bello Tasting Room was certainly a hot bed of oeno-activity as well …

After all, legendary Monte Bello staffer Barry Campbell was pouring the 2006 Monte Bello down there, not to mention the VERY RARE 2009 Historic Vineyard Series Klein Cabernet … they’s was linin’ up, they was!

And don’t forget the picnic area! Heaven forfend if you forget the picnic area. That’s where the serious collectors go, the salty and sage veterans of the Monte Bello wars …

 

The picnic area is where THEY go to share the treasurable niceties from their own hidden vaults … Oat Valley Carignane, anyone?

One of the true stars of the whole show, of course, is our head winemaker, Paul Draper, who, despite having been in these viticultural trenches for over 40 years, still delights in chatting with guests about all things wine, and all things Ridge …

And when he and Eric both go side-by-side?

Magic. That’s a lot of palate magic right there …

And don’t get me started about David Gates! Being our Vineyard Manager (i.e. a farmer!) it’s a tad rarer that we get him INSIDE the barn, but anyone who’s ever tasted with David knows he’s just astonishingly charming, brilliant, knowledgeable, charismatic, and flat-out entertaining. Here he is, running it down for very well-regarded wine-blogger Martin Redmond (he of http://enofylzwineblog.com/) …

The sun is shining, the weather is sweet, yeah, makes you want to move those dancing feet

Or, just sit, and not do much of anything. Just drink wine, feel happy, relax …

And if all I’ve said to date hasn’t sold ya, just dig this cat (and note the vintage Day In the Vineyard shirt!) …

Dig it Les! Just dig it …

And to you all, I thank you all! Thank you all, on behalf of us all! This is such a special event for us, and we treasure the time we spend with you. Come back next time, it’s going to be oh so fun again …


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