Posts Tagged ‘Jon Bonne’

California’s Historic Vineyards Go Up For A Vote TODAY!

April 15, 2013

Assemblyman Tom Daly (D-Anaheim) introduced resolution HR9 earlier this year, and Ridge Vineyards wants it to pass!

HR9

Jon Bonné has a fine article on the subject out today (found here); here is an excerpt:

Daly’s resolution, HR 9, has solely symbolic value, but it is a significant  step for vineyardists in the state who are hoping to keep antique vines in the ground. Given the state’s fondness for frequent replanting, this can be harder than it might appear, which is why in 2010, several prominent vintners, including Ridge Vineyards and Turley Wine Cellars, created the nonprofit Historic Vineyard Society. The society’s main task has been to create a registry of more than 200 sites throughout California that date back as far as the 1880s, or earlier. Their hope is to find incentives to keep these old vines in the ground, perhaps a tax break, but the vote in the legislature is a first official step.

Our very own David Gates is deeply involved in the Historic Vineyards Society; more about David and the HVS can be found here.

I spoke at length with David about HVS and HR9 recently, and our conversation basically boiled down to this: Recognizing, in our contemporary post-needs-fulfillment corporate-capitalism market-based economy, that the only legitimately promising opportunity to effect change is to essentially fiscally incentivize it, how then do we accordingly incentivize preserving vineyards that produce less fruit than do younger vines? The answer? You have to educate people about these vineyards, what they’re capable of producing, and how a slightly higher investment returns a much higher result. Put another way, if consumers prove themselves willing to spend a bit more for true and unduplicatable quality in their wines (the sort that only old vines can produce), then growers will in turn opt to preserve, as opposed to tear out and replant, legitimately rare and beautiful old vine properties, and producers will in turn opt to make wines from these amazing vineyards.

Which means it comes down to us!

Support HR9! Support the HVS! Support real and true quality!

It’s your money, you worked hard for it, what do you want it to stand for?

Let it stand for the rare, the beautiful, and the true. Let it stand for HR9! Let it stand for the HVS! Let it stand for the Old Vines!

Drink the rare, the beautiful, and the true. Drink the historic.

And today, drink the historic, and make history.

Would you have this beauty pulled out?

#VineWatch13_XIII_LS

I’m not saying that Historic Vines live on the same moral plane as Predator Drones, Post-Traumatic-Stress Disorder, or Animal Cruelty, but what I am positing is a psychic disconnect that unites them all; meaning, if you only KNEW what really went on, would you REALLY feel the same?

Come and sit with a vine. You’ll be converted. Siddhartha went to the Bodhi tree to find enlightenment; what awaits under the grapevine?

Jon Bonné’s most memorable wines, and a walk down Eisele lane …

December 30, 2012

You’re reading this blog, so it’s probably reasonable to assume you’re aware of Jon Bonné. Possibly from just reading this blog, but more likely because of his excellent wine column in the San Francisco Chronicle.

SFChron

He’s an excellent writer, with an excellent palate, and above all else, he’s a pro.

And, he likes to have a bit of fun with some archetypal end-of-year tropes; something I’m rather fond of as well.

(http://blog.ridgewine.com/2012/12/28/announcing-the-2012-ridge-vineyards-wine-of-the-year/)

Jon’s most recent contribution to the EOY canon is a column entitled “The Ten Most Memorable Wines of 2012.”

I like this. I like this because it calls attention to that which separates the wine from the drink, as it were. A drink is food, is culinary. It is tasted, it is savored, it is assessed, and hopefully, it is enjoyed. But a wine, when wonderful, is more than that. It is experiential. It is a moment. It is a memory in the making.

To remember a wine as memorable is to recognize it for what it is best able to achieve; to acknowledge that it has become a part of one’s personal emotional and aesthetic history.

So I love this list. Because it’s not necessarily about identifying the “best” wines per se, it’s about identifying the wines that continue to live with you, that continue to move you, that continue to haunt you in the best ways.

A memorable wine is an experience, a night you’ll never forget.

I encourage you to read Jon’s list; it’s a phenomenal compendium of experiences.

In the #3 spot are two Ridge wines; the 2009 Monte Bello, and the 1971 Eisele.

The 1971 Eisele.

A wine I’ll never forget.

I first tasted this wine in May of 2009. You can find my tasting notes here:

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/05/21/pssst-pass-this-cab-across-your-lips-or-aaaaah-the-eisele/

I read back on my write-up now, and have to laugh at the nervous rigidity of my prose; in an effort to constrain my ebullience, I tightened up, and attempted to present straightforward tasting notes in as pro a fashion as possible. Ridiculous.

Eric Baugher, our VP of Winemaking here at Monte Bello, said it far better than I did:

“The ’71 Eisele was awesome!”

Cheers Jon; to your memories, and ours, and everyone’s!

To read Jon’s full article, please click the following link:

http://www.sfgate.com/wine/thirst/article/The-10-most-memorable-wines-of-2012-4152968.php#page-2

The Top 100s are coming!

December 3, 2012

This time of year can be quite a hoot if you’ve got a bit of time for some extra reading; it’s the time of the Top 100s, and they’re already coming. Some of them are humorous, some are ridiculous, some are vital, some are niche-y, and a great many can be truly informative.

I often find that the relevance of a Top 100 list tends to function as a referendum on the relevance of the list-maker themselves; meaning, I tend to read the lists from the writers I like best.

In my field — the world of wine — there are quite a few writers & publications whose End-of-Year Lists I truly anticipate. Some of this is personal; it should come as no surprise that I enjoy wine, and these lists have often sent new offerings across my bow that I might otherwise have failed to discover.

Some of this is of course professional as well; I like to see when and where our wines place.

Jon Bonné is one of those reviewers whose year-end lists really are something to look forward to. He’s insightful, erudite, thorough, and perhaps best of all, he takes his job seriously. I don’t often drop the word “professional,” and I try and never use the term lightly – it’s a concept I hold particularly dear — but Jon really is a pro. And for whatever my two cents are worth, that’s high praise.

So it was with some degree of excitement that I began combing through the lists he’s just released, and given my esteem for the man, you can imagine my pleasure when I read the following (in regards to our 2009 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello):

“Quite simply, one of the best California Cabernet-based wines I’ve ever had”

Those last three words are especially noteworthy; Jon has tried a great many California Cabernet-based wines (in his capacity as the wine editor for the SF Chronicle)!

To read the rest of Jon’s Top 100s, please follow the following link:

http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Top-100-Wines-Cabernet-and-Merlot-4081085.php

And it’s worth noting that, while the ”official” retail allocation of the 2009 Monte Bello is now sold through, you can in fact still purchase it via our Holiday Gift Offerings.

I don’t mean to be shameless with the plug, but this is a pretty special wine, at a pretty special price, and, well, you’re pretty special.

I’m just sayin’. It’s Monte Bello Time.

09cmb1_I

Monte Bello Gift Pack

The Seriousness of Zinfandel?

February 4, 2011

You may have read Jon Bonne’s recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle entitled “Is Zinfandel a serious wine?” If you did (or even if you didn’t!), you may have noticed that this article sparked a rather fierce debate in the aftermath of its publication; it seems the topic touched quite a collective nerve! If you didn’t see the original article, you can click here to read it.

I watched most of the arguments from the sidelines, content to enjoy all the kind words about Ridge Zinfandel that cropped up in the various conversations. And thanks to all for that!

But I did wade into one thread, and with great pleasure, as it meant I was among the comments following an article by Steve Heimoff. If you’ve read anything by Steve, particularly on his blog, you’ll know he has a fantastic knack for not only provoking great responses, but attracting an astonishing caliber of respondents. No disrespect intended to Steve, but there are times when reading the comment feed is almost more instructive than reading the original article!

Anyhow, Steve took on the topic of Zinfandel’s seriousness, and I eventually threw my rhetorical hat into the ring. I reprint my initial response below, but I encourage you to visit Steve’s site and read both his posting, and the 40+ comments that followed. You can find it all here:

http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2011/01/31/is-zinfandel-a-serious-wine/comment-page-1/#comment-166960

As to my original comment, here ’tis:

I wonder if I might address the question of serious vs. fun (for lack of a better way to frame the debate as it seems to be shaping up) by positing that one can be quite serious about one’s fun. I find that both Ridge, and Zinfandel, have fascinating histories specifically because of the way they have historically lived at some unique juncture point of high and low brow tendencies; when they succeed, they perform a marvelous integration of funk and sophistication, head and heart, technique and instinct.

Many if not all of our greatest artists throughout history were deadly serious about producing that which would ideally be entertaining to us; comedians who rehearsed jokes for 10 hours a day, composers who brought themselves to the brink of exhaustion at the piano, painters who drove themselves to the edge of madness at the canvas, writers who labored over every punctuation mark in every poem. As recipients of their artistry and dedication, we revel in the sensual enjoyment of their creations, be they light or heavy, fun or serious, playful or ponderous.

The point being, one can be serious about making a zinfandel that is flat out fun to drink. I am a proud employee of Ridge Vineyards because I think that’s exactly what Ridge does, and it’s something I wanted to be a part of. And we are certainly not alone in doing this. All the accolades, devotions, and praises evident in this comment feed alone attest to it. Cheers to zinfandel, and cheers, as always, to Steve for producing such effectively provocative writing. It’s serious work he does, but it’s alot of fun to read!

Interested In Clones?

March 17, 2010

If you’re interested in matters pertaining to clonal selection in the vineyard, then I would like to call your attention to a fascinating article by Jon Bonné that recently ran in The San Francisco Chronicle, in which he takes a close look at some of the idiosyncratic, trend-bucking choices a number of Santa Cruz appellation producers have been making for their vines. And yes, we do make a bit of a cameo on the article!

When replanting the Monte Bello site, Ridge Vineyards eschewed the standard industry-blessed clones, instead investing in a hodgepodge of historic vines.

When it acquired the site in 1959, the existing Cabernet came from the old Fountain Grove site in Sonoma; at least four of those specimens are being cleaned up to be used anew, “just to try to save a little bit more of that genetics,” says David Gates, who runs Ridge’s vineyards.

More recent Cabernet plantings have a lineage back to the old La Questa vineyard founded by Emmet Rixford in the 1880s, which in turn traces its origins to Margaux. The La Questa clones arrived on Monte Bello’s limestone ridge via Mount Eden Vineyards, which we’ll get to in a moment. Even Ridge’s Petit Verdot has a lineage (officially sanctioned) to UC Davis’ long-abandoned Jackson experimental vineyard in the Sierra Foothills.

“We are prejudiced toward clones that have been in California as long as possible,” Draper says.

You can read the full article here.

FANTASTIC Article on Ridge (& The Santa Cruz Mountains Region!) In The San Francisco Chronicle!

March 1, 2010

Jon Bonné has penned an absolutely wonderful article about Santa Cruz Mountains wines in the San Francisco Chronicle, with a hearty portion of the text devoted to Ridge Vineyards. Here’s how the article begins:

Next week, Paul Draper and his team at Ridge Vineyards will pause from their work at the legendary Monte Bello vineyard and raise a glass to 50 years of winemaking, high above the streets of Cupertino.

Ridge’s half-century history is a testament to the improbable. Neither Draper nor any of Ridge’s founders, all Stanford scientists, were wine people by training. And Monte Bello is the exception that proves the rules in California Cabernet: made in American oak and not French; rarely exceeding 13 percent alcohol.

This would be reactionary if not for the fact that its style (with the exception of more new oak) hasn’t wavered much in more than 40 vintages – a tribute to the old-fashioned techniques that Draper pioneered after arriving in 1969.

You can enjoy the full article here.
 

Geyserville is #1!

December 8, 2009

Well, it’s official, the San Francisco Chronicle has selected their Top 100 Wines of the Year, and guess what came out on top? Our very own Ridge Vineyards 2007 Geyserville!

“The best Geyserville in years, and a reminder of Ridge’s quintessential restrained style.”

You can read the excellent introduction by Jon Bonné here, and you can see the full list here.

Ridge For Thanksgiving! -or- Ridge Wine In The News! -or- An Admittedly Boastful Post, Full Of Bi-Coastal Toasts!

November 17, 2009

Well, I must say, it’s been a rather nice week in the news for Ridge, and I’m very happy to see that our holiday appeal appears to be bi-coastal, in that both the New York Times and the San Francisco Chronicle recently highlighted Ridge wines for their Thanksgiving Dinner companionability!

The New York times article, written by Eric Asimov, recounts this year’s edition of an annual pre-Thanksgiving tasting:

For six consecutive years, the Dining section’s wine panel has gathered for an early Thanksgiving meal. The mission: to taste potential holiday wines, to determine what works and what does not with a representative feast, and to offer coherent answers to the annual question of what to serve with the bird.

In the red wine category, our 2007 Three Valleys was elected the proverbial Best In Show:

Sam brought our top-rated red, a 2007 Three Valleys zinfandel from Ridge. I always run counter to the Thanksgiving bromide that zinfandel is the perfect American wine for the most American holiday. Zinfandel is often too big and alcoholic. But at 14.3 percent, this zin was well balanced and almost sleek.

On the other coast, Jon Bonné wrote a pair of linked Thanksgiving-theme articles recently; in the first one, from 11.13.09, he gives readers a very helpful general guide to selecting wines for the Thanksgiving table, and in the second, from 11.15.09, he provides tasting notes on some of his personal recommendations. He wrote the following about our 2007 Geyserville:

2007 Ridge Geyserville Sonoma County ($35) A classic Geyserville that shows off why Ridge’s style has endured. Sweet and eloquent, with charred branch, balsam, plump blackberry and a smoky edge. The balance is impeccable. Predominantly Zinfandel, with Carignane, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre.

So, if you’re beginning the process of selecting your wines for Thanksgiving, I am happy to suggest a little something from Ridge!

Natural Winemaking -or- Got The Natural Blues? Drink The Natural Reds! -or- The Chronicle Chronicles A Chronicle Of Natural Wines!

September 1, 2009

Jon Bonné wrote an excellent piece in the San Francisco Chronicle this past Sunday in which he discusses “natural” winemaking. It’s a fascinating topic, and of course a topic of great interest to those of us here at Ridge (Paul Draper in fact gets name-checked in the article), given that Ridge has long been at the forefront of advocation for more “natural” processes as regards making wine.

I actually missed the article when it came out, but Paul brought it  up during our Monday morning meeting; he was particularly impressed with the writer for expressly acknowledging the winemaking side of the equation; so much attention gets paid to vineyard methodologies as regards organic farming, biodynamism, etc., that it was very heartening to see wineries being looked at as well.

In a rather strange confluence of occurrences, Paul happened to mention the matter of “ingredient lists” for wine labels during this meeting, and after I returned to my computer, I found an e-mail from a customer wanting to know if we used any milk products in our wines! Knowing our winemaker Eric Baugher’s passion for the creation of just such an ingredients list, I passed the e-mail on, and he immediately noted it as being a perfect example of why such labeling is so important.

And by the way, no, no milk products are used!

Any thoughts on the matter of “natural” winemaking or the possibility of establishing new labeling standards (i.e. an ingredients list) for wines? Let me know!


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 137 other followers

%d bloggers like this: