Posts Tagged ‘John Olney’

#RidgeSomms: To Dine In The Valleys, Part II

May 24, 2013

Dry Creek Valley.

Zinfandel Country.

Home to our Lytton Springs Estate.

Lytton Springs, in the beautiful distance

Lytton Springs, in the beautiful distance

Home to Dry Creek Kitchen.

DCK_Sign

Home to Dustin Valette.

Chef Dustin Valette, at work on the #RidgeSomms menu

Chef Dustin Valette, at work on the #RidgeSomms menu

Dustin is the chef at Dry Creek Kitchen, and Dry Creek Kitchen is where we took our #RidgeSomms Sommeliers for dinner.

If you’ve been following #RidgeSomms, you may recall a query posted in Part I of this “To Dine In The Valleys” series:

When you are Ridge Vineyards, and you have invited 12 of the best and brightest food & wine luminaries in the country to your estates, you are faced with a daunting question: where do you take them for dinner?

When  you are North, and you are at Lytton Springs, and you are in Healdsburg, then the answer is, you take them to Dry Creek Kitchen.

We went there before it all began; to meet with Dustin, and to build a menu:

DCK_MenuNotes DCK_Setting

And oh, what a menu it was!

DCKMenu

And oh, what an evening it was!

My night’s work (should that be “work”?) began with Lytton Springs Winemaker John Olney, and Drew Munro, our most expert and professional Wine Host from Dry Creek Kitchen, tasting and preparing the evening’s wines.

DCK_NightOf_JohnOlneyTasting

John Olney

DCK_NightOf_PreparingWine

Drew Munro

And might I say, quite a roster! (p.s. those are magnums of 1990 Geyserville and Lytton Springs that Drew is opening!)

DCK_TheWines DCK_TheRoster

After that, a lovely reception …

DCK_ReceptionI DCK_ReceptionII

…featuring the 2006 Monte Bello Chardonnay …

DCK_Reception_MBChard

And finally dinner. Wonderful, lovely dinner.

DCK_DinnerIa DCK_DinnerII DCK_DinnerIII

I have but three words for you: Black Garlic Béarnaise.

Insert full belly sigh here …

It was the best of times, it was the best of times.

And it was awfully hard to leave.

But we definitely left happy …

DCK_LeavingDinner

Thank you to all at Dry Creek Kitchen for being such wonderful hosts, and for providing such a wonderful location. Special thanks to Drew Munro for the exemplary wine service, and most especially to Chef Dustin Valette for crafting such an outstanding menu!

Lastly, to our Somms, alla famiglia!

#RidgeSomms: Jackets Are Preferred

May 17, 2013

If there is one thing I get teased about above all else, it is the fact that I always wear a sportcoat.

In fact, it wouldn’t be far from the truth to say, that literally not a day goes by without someone remarking on my constant penchant for appearing so encoated.

But to borrow a favorite colloquialism: That’s just the kind of guy what I’m.

Which is why I am now very fond of Chef Frank Stitt.

Mind you, I’ve never met Frank Stitt, but I’m going to very soon, because he’s coming to #RidgeSomms. And that makes me very happy.

It makes me very happy for a great many reasons, not the least of which is that, on his restaurant’s website (the very legendary Highland’s Bar & Grill in Birmingham, Alabama), is the following:

Jackets are preferred for gentlemen.

I am now very fond of Chef Frank Stitt.

~

As is Dan Buckler.

Dan Buckler, Regional Sales Manager, Ridge Vineyards

Dan Buckler is the Third Jewel in the Ridge Vineyards Triple Crown of Regional Sales Managers.

Like Michael Torino, and like Christina Donley, he is a tireless representative for Ridge, and he too travels a a great many miles.

Behold:

Dan Buckler – Regional Sales Manager (SoCal, KY, TN, AL, MS, LA, TX, AR, MO, KS, OK, NM, AZ, NV, UT, HI)

From Kentucky to Kansas, Utah to Hawaii, L.A. to LA, that’s a full-bore itinerary.

But for Dan, it’s all worth it, in no small part because of something he learned at Chef Frank Stitt’s table.

~

When I first began preparing for #RidgeSomms, I talked to Dan about his invitees; I wanted to know the backstory behind why these particular individuals had been singled out for invitations. Sure, the bios are amazing, sure the cred is through the roof, but knowing Dan, I knew there had to be personal stories there too. Dan’s like that; a narrative kind of cat.

Here’s what he told me about Frank Stitt:

“I first had dinner at Highland’s in 2002, and Chef Stitt came by the table during the evening.  It was a revelation, one of the 2-3 great meals that prompted me to say “I should be selling wine to restaurants instead of shoes to shoe stores”.  Highland’s remains one of my favorite restaurants in the USA.”

That’s the Poetry of Buckler; a Carver-esque reconciliation of humility and pride, a Levine-like understanding of work, a Fante-esque sense of one’s own destinies, and a dry Matthews-ian wit.

Dan Buckler is very fond of Chef Frank Stitt.

~

Consider these degrees of separation (otherwise knows as The Wine Bone Connects To The Kitchen Bone):

Dan Buckler is connected to Frank Stitt.

Frank Stitt is connected to Richard Olney.

Richard Olney is connected to John Olney.

John Olney is connected to Ridge Vineyards.

So OF COURSE Frank Stitt is coming to #RidgeSomms!

How’s it all work? Like this!

1. re: Dan’s connection to Frank, see above.

2. re: Frank’s connection to Richard, dig this from Frank’s official bio:

“…Stitt’s culinary journey began to take shape when he moved to San Francisco and, as a philosophy student, noticed that beloved cookbooks were taking precedence over the works of Plato and Kierkegaard. He honed his kitchen skills at various Bay Area restaurants, including the kitchen of Alice Waters at her now legendary restaurant, Chez Panisse. Waters introduced him to Richard Olney, who at the time was working on the Good Cook series for Time-Life Books and needed an assistant…”

3. re: Richard’s connection to John; John is/was Richard’s nephew.

4. re: John’s connection to Ridge; John is the winemaker at our Lytton Springs estate!

(as an aside, check the following, from Richard’ Olney’s New York Times Obituary: To his great delight, one of Mr. Olney’s nephews, John, went into the wine business in California, working at Ridge Vineyards in Cupertino.)

So really, it’s truly destiny that brings Frank Stitt to Ridge Vineyars for #RidgeSomms.

~

Frank Stitt is the real deal. Check this: (more…)

Building The 2012 Monte Bello: Part II

May 10, 2013

We’ve just completed the second round of the Monte Bello Assemblage Tasting, and the blend is in!

It was quite a remarkable tasting; somewhat unique in its architecture, as compared to some past editions, in that it was essentially divided into three distinct phases: Audition, Assemblage, and Vertical.

For those of you not familiar with the process by which the Monte Bello is created, I humbly direct you to the following posts:

Beauty Is A Rare Thing: Building The 2012 Monte Bello

Building Monte Bello: The 2011 Assemblage

A Seat At The Table: A Day In Which I Am Invited To Participate In The 2010 Assemblage Tasting!

The Second Assemblage Tasting was held in The Old Torre Winery Barn, and in attendance were the following:

Paul Draper
Eric Baugher
John Olney
Shun Ishikubo
David Gates
Kyle Theriot
Shinji Kurokawa
Amy Monroe
Christopher Watkins (me)

~

As the warm spring sun began to wend its subtle tides through the warming window panes, Eric inaugurated his singular oeno-alchemy…

Eric_Preparing

… as, one by one, we sought our seats and prepared our palates.

Thebeginning

We began with an auditioning of sorts; a blind tasting, 5 glasses …

5glasses_I 5glasses_II

… no explanation, no context, only the instructions: taste, assess, write, vote; 2 plusses, 2 minuses, 1 neutral.

MoleskineNotes

When the veils were lifted, we were found to have been auditioning 4 blocks’ worth of possible inclusion candidates (three different cab lots, and a merlot option); snuck into the line-up was the First Assemblage, crafted back in April. Two of the lots received majority votes. Then it was on to Round II.

Five glasses again, blind tasted again. And again, the directive: taste, assess, write, vote; 2 plusses, 2 minuses, 1 neutral. 4 of the 5 lots fared very well; one block fell by the wayside for showing a bit too ripe.

With Round III came the “proper” assemblage process: two glasses; one with the “control” (in this case, the First Assemblage), one with an “addition.” A and B. Taste, assess, write, vote. Plus or Minus.

Eric&Shun_Pouring

Eric Baugher & Shun Ishikubo

“A” took it by a nose, 5 to 4. A 7% addition of South Slope South Cabernet (S3).

Round IV. Two glasses again. A and B. Control (now including S3) and Addition.  “B” essentially sweeps; a 7-2 majority. A blend of Camp and Back Hills falls by the side of the vineyard road.

Paul_Tasting

Paul Draper

Round V, an override! I am on the right side of history for this one; I alone voted with Paul and Eric in favor of a 10% addition of 10-acre cab, and as is his right, Paul opted for the addition. None complained, it had been a tough vote.

David Gates

David Gates

Round VI, we would find out later, found us debating the future of a block I’d loved on its own; my colleague Amy as well, joined by David Gates; however, David, a veteran of the assemblages, predicted it would not, in the end, be “assembled.” He was right, it lost out to a 6-3 majority in favor of the control. But I am holding out for a solo bottling; on its own, the block is beautiful.

Paul&John_Talking

Paul Draper & John Olney

Round VII, the final round of the Assemblage. “A” took the majority, which was the control, but Paul and John came out swinging in favor of the addition; a small block of stressed Merlot. To be continued …

And then came the final round. A 6-wine blind vertical of Monte Bello; the preceding 5 vintages, plus the “new” 2012.

MonteBelloVertical

I wrote “proper” tasting notes on each, and was able to spot almost all of them as what they were, though much to my surprise, I confused the 2009 and the 2007 (which, I would say, says a great deal for how the 2007 is currently showing, given the overwhelmingly positive critical response we’ve received for the 2009 of late –Wine Advocate: 98 points, International Wine Report: 97 points, International Wine Cellar: 96 points, Wine Spectator: 95 points–given that we’re currently offering the 2007 in our tasting rooms, perhaps a good time to visit!)

But anyhow, in addition to my “proper” notes, I also wrote a spontaneous Haiku in response to each:

2009 Monte Bello
A walk through the trees;
wet, the path, twilit, the leaves.
Into the green mist.

2008 Monte Bello
The red blushes of
beauty; luxuriant youth,
serene  age; timeless.

2007 Monte Bello
As a great trunk’s broad
shoulders grow, ask yourself: Which
is stronger? Roots? Limbs?

2011 Monte Bello
Sweet soul perfection
of campground wisdom; as with
smoke, so with memories.

2012 Monte Bello (2nd Assemblage)
There is strength to fear
and strength to love; run from one,
run to the other.

2010 Monte Bello
Elegance within
a corset; beauty of denial,
of promise: a dream

~

When all was said and done, a new Assemblage had been born: The 2nd Assemblage. The new details are as follows:

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc 7% Petit Verdot, 13.6% ABV

Welcome.

~

As we do every year, we continue to invite our Monte Bello Collector Members to experience firsthand the burgeoning development of the vintage that will one day be theirs; they have now seen the 2012 Monte Bello in its Component state (for more, please click here), in its 1st Assemblage incarnation (for more, please click here), and next weekend, they’ll sample that which we have just created, the 2nd Assemblage. And if history repeats itself, it’s quite likely this will be the Final Assemblage, meaning this will be the last opportunity to taste this wine before it goes into bottle for its long hibernation; not to awaken again until its release in 2015. For more information about this very special event, please see below:

Final Monte Bello Tasting
Saturday & Sunday, May 18th & 19th
11-5pm each day
Cupertino, CA

This event is for Monte Bello Collector members only (a total of 4 attendees per membership), there is no fee to attend, and an RSVP is required. We look forward to seeing you!

Eventbrite - Monte Bello Final Assemblage Tasting - May 18th & 19th, 11am-5pm

A Ridge Vineyards Spring Release YouTube-A-Looza!

April 18, 2013

Moist spring moon -

raise a finger

and it drips.

-Issa

 

Who is it for,

this pillow on the floor,

in the twilight of spring?

-Buson

 

Oh, these spring days!

A nameless little mountain,

wrapped in morning haze!

-Basho

~

Springtime is magical in so many ways, not the least of which is the arrival of our New Spring Releases!

If you’re a member, you’ve received them

If you’ve visited, you’ve tasted them.

If you’ve been shopping, you’ve bought them.

But for those of you for whom the Wine Spring has not yet arrived, you can experience the flowing magnificence of these new wines virtually via the moving image!

Behold, a Ridge Vineyards Spring Release YouTube-A-Looza!

~


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~

~

~

~

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Live Virtual Tasting: Part II, The Link!

November 2, 2012

Live Virtual Tasting!

It’s droppin, hoppin’, poppin, and never-stoppin’!

It’s live, it’s lit, this is it, no quit!

It’s in the place, the space, a taste for your face!

It’s up, it’s on, it’s on the lawn like John Pecan!

It’s ever-present, omni-present, holiday-present, pheasant of a peasant tailfeather fair weather no tether with or whether black leather white lace in the space!

Meaning, the livestream link is up!

Wish to dig the Virtual tonight? Click a move to the groove of the vine offline, and await the fate of the date gone great as the great grape elates the states!

Meaning, it’s offline now, but the wow of the pow will take a bow in the Tao of the now before you know it, so don’t blow it, rather mine it, vine it, design it, and divine it, cuz the planet says plan it, Janet!

6PM, Pacific Standard Time, The Live Virtual Tasting DROPS!

The Link:

http://www.livestream.com/ridge_wine

Live Virtual Tasting, And YOU’RE Invited! 11.2.12, 6pm, PST …

November 1, 2012

Ever wanted to ask winemaker Paul Draper a direct question about “wild” yeast?

Ever thought it’d be nice to discuss submerged caps with winemaker Eric Baugher?

Ever wondered aloud as to how winemaker John Olney feels about pump-overs?

Well, now’s your chance to get these answers sorted out once and for all!

Tomorrow night (Friday, November 2nd), at 6pm Pacific Standard Time, we’ll be opening up our virtual visual phone lines and allowing YOU to engage directly with our winemaking team as they taste through a 6-wine flight of new releases!

How do you become a part of this INTERSTELLAR experience? Simple! Just follow me, and I’ll lead you through …

First, register here:
http://fallvirtualtasting2012.eventbrite.com/#

All done? Good! Next, just go to our homepage tomorrow
(http://www.ridgewine.com/),
and you’ll see the link for the LiveStream!

And there’s more! Want to taste along WITH our winemakers? Awesome! Just click here
(http://www.ridgewine.com/Images/EventImages/fall2012_virtual_tasting_mat.pdf)
and download our custom Tasting Mat! Now you’re in the game!

If this is all a little overwhelming, even confusing, I’m here to help. In fact, here’s a little schematic to help illustrate how this all works:

See you in the web-o-sphere!

#Harvest2012: Pump It Up!

October 14, 2012

I work at Monte Bello. Accordingly, much of my material for this blog has, as its point-of-origin, the mountain.

That said, my colleagues to the north — at Lytton Springs — are wonderful about feeding me images, videos, and stories.

Given that the teachers/tutors/mentors I am most regularly in contact with, however, are at Monte Bello, the resulting peculiarity is that I am often relying on Monte Bello talent to helps expand on Lytton Springs content!

So this time around, I’m going to flip the paradigm; I’m going to share some Monte Bello content, with some Lytton Springs comment!

The subject of “pump-overs” came up recently on our Facebook page, and in the interest of expanding on the topic, here’s a bit of perspective from John Olney (our Lytton Springs winemaker), followed by a quick and hopefully informative bit of video footage of a pump-over in action at Monte Bello.

From John:

With few exceptions, all grape juice is clear. All the color and structure in a red wine comes from the grapes and seeds. Therefore, to make red wine, the clear juice must make contact, or macerate, with the skins and seeds. To accomplish this, we carry out pump-overs twice daily. During a pump-over, the juice is pumped from the bottom of the tank over the floating cap of skins and seeds above.

A pump-over serves two functions:

*First, it is the primary means by which phenolic compounds are extracted from the skins and seeds. Phenolic compounds include all those components of color, tannin, and aroma that make red wine red wine.

*Second, pump-overs introduce oxygen – critical to the survival and function of the yeast – into the fermenting must.

Additionally, pump-overs help regulate the temperature of the fermentation by mixing the cooler juice at the bottom of the tank with the cap of skins above where heat is trapped and builds up.

Video of a pump-over in action:



Sam Howles-Banerji began his tenure at Ridge Vineyards as a Harvest Intern. He is now a treasured full-time member of the Monte Bello Retail Sales & Hospitality Staff …

you can take the intern out of the winery

… and t is to Sam we owe a debt of gratitude for the great imagery in this post (and to Eric Baugher, Shun Ishikubo, and the whole Monte Bello winemaking team!).

In addition to the video footage above, dig this remarkable compendium of pump-over pics:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

#Harvest2012.

Feel it.

#Harvest2012-Dateline Lytton Springs: The Zin is In!

October 4, 2012

Zin.

Bin.

Zin in Bin.

Zin is in the Bin.

Zin is In!

The 2nd of October was a momentous day in the history of #Harvest2012. On this day, the first Zinfandel came in from the Lytton Springs vineyards!

The verdict?

Lytton Springs Winemaker John Olney is a straight-talkin’ fella; he doesn’t always say much, but what he says always comes right from the hip. When I asked him about the quality/character of the fruit …

“So far the fruit looks and tastes great … Sugar levels are manageable, color abundant, fermentations a bit timid but steady. Overall thumbs up.”

For John, that qualifies as prose most purple.

Be excited. Be very excited.

John said one additional thing that merits special attention. After noting that the fruit looks and tastes great, John said:

“All the credit for that goes to the vineyard team.”

I wish to join John in acknowledging the extraordinary contributions these amazing individuals so consistently make.

No one works harder …

and no one enacts in more tangible fashion the singularly symbiotic relationship that exists between people and the land …

Blistering heat. Backbreaking work. Impossible timelines, impossible pressure. Yet still, a smile. A big, huge, this-is-the-real-magic smile.

Will Thomas, Lytton Springs Viticulturist

Three cheers for you Will Thomas, and three cheers for the whole vineyard team. What tremendous work you’re doing!

#Harvest2012.

Feel it.

Block Rockin’ East …

September 28, 2012

Back with another one of those Block Rockin’ Easts!

You were there diggin’ Block 3. You know all about it!

(#Harvest2012: Please Approach The Bench!)

Now, it’s time to rock Blocks 1, 4 & 5 …

and this time, EVERYONE is getting into the action!

Our auteur behind the lens for this edition of GuerillaVineTheater is none other than David Amadia, our VP of Sales & Marketing, seen here with Lytton Springs winemaker John Olney, in advance of having a crack at running the bin dump crane:

And here’s the rough mix of his chronicles — Vine to Winery — Block Rockin’ East …


That’s one of the things I really love about Ridge Vineyards; everyone, and I MEAN everyone, gets invested in the winemaking process.

Maybe you work in a wine shop. Or maybe you’re a consumer of wine. Perhaps you’re attending a wine dinner. Or maybe taking a class about wine. Whatever it is, just remember that when you see that Wine Educator, that Wine Salesperson, that Winery Representative, coming through the door, and they’re well-dressed, and their socks match, and they’re rockin’ high-brow/lo-brow-sophisticate footwear, and their pomade is sparklin’, and their horn-rims are layin’ just right, just remember, just remember, that that lil’ speck of rust-colored somethin’ that you see spacklin’ a cuff, just remember that ain’t laundry fluff, or a loose thread, or a croissant crumb. That’s vineyard dust, baby …

Left to right, that’s Mike Torino, Dan Buckler, and Christina Donley. They’re our Regional Sales Managers, and if you’ve got a good wine shop in your town, they’ll be there. Block Rockin’, authentically …

Congratulations to John Olney, and to Will Thomas, our Lytton Springs viticulturist, and to the entire Lytton Springs team, for another great pick!

#Harvest2012. Feel it.

#Harvest2012, Please Approach The Bench!

September 24, 2012

Father East Bench

Had Seven Blocks

Seven Blocks Had Father East Bench

And they never laughed

And they never cried

All they did was go like this

With a …

And a …

That’s right folks, #Harvest2012 has come to East Bench! All seven blocks worth.

And you might ask, what are the names of those special seven blocks?

Perhaps something biblical …

–Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus, Numbers Deuteronomy, Joshua, Judges

“Where do we start?”

“Let’s hit the Numbers Block first. After that, Deuteronomy!”

Or maybe some obscure vineyard coding system …

–chx4214, rmg4545, rrr933, qpq024, odi567, bvv000, gfd789

Or perhaps the first seven songs off of Exile On Main Street …

–Rocks Off, Rip This Joint, Shake Your Hips, Casino Boogie, Tumbling Dice, Sweet Virginia, Torn And Frayed

That’d be excellent! “Ok everyone, let’s get the zin from the Sweet Virginia block!”

Truth be told, the names aren’t that exciting. They’re … um … numerical. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.

That said, I have really good news!

John Olney, our VP of Winemaking up at Lytton Springs, told me that the 2012 Block 3 was “the best looking Block 3 I’ve seen yet.” Which is significant, because Block 3′s rates of PH vs. Sugar development have proven challenging in the past.

So, if even Block Three is doing well …

You dig my drift. 2012 is poppin’.

Congratulations to a great pick everyone! Judges are smiling on The Bench!

#Harvest2012. Feel it.


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