Posts Tagged ‘Eric Baugher’

Pagani Ranch arrives: The Alicante cometh …

October 20, 2011

I was fortunate enough to be on hand when the Alicante Bouschet arrived at the Monte Bello Winery from the Pagani Ranch.  In fact, I rode the fruit in!

Here’s me on the back of the grape truck (photo by Kim Korupp)…

Ahhh, kid in a candy store. That’s me when I’m at the winery …

Anyhow, and needless to say, the production team was ready to spring into action …

The pitchfork awaits ...

As does Paul Draper ...

 Alicante Bouschet is an amazing grape, and it was quite magical watching it come splashing onto the conveyor belt in all it’s crimson noir glory…

Paul Draper observes the fruit coming in off the gondola ...

 

... and Eric Baugher and Shun Ishikubo dig in and start tasting ...

Despite all the challenges of the vintage (rain, rain, rain, cold weather, rain, cold weather, fog, rain, cold weather, rain, rain, rain …), we’ve actually been quite happy with the character and quality of the grapes we’ve received, and think it will be a notable vintage for its elegance, its sophistication, and its concentration. Plus, we’ll be seeing low alcohol levels across the board, and a heightened focus on balance and harmony.

There is of course a fine line between elegance and austerity, but we feel strongly we’re on the right side of this line in 2011.

Pressing Pagani …

October 12, 2011

Up here at the Monte Bello Estate, we very recently hosted a wonderful group; a Japanese film crew. As it turns out, they happened to arrive on a day when the production team was pressing some Pagani Ranch zinfandel, and it proved to be an excellent opportunity to see a press happen live and in real-time.

Pressing is pretty much exactly what it sounds like; grapes are put in a container of sorts, and they’re pressed, in order to squeeze juice out.

Most of the juice that goes into Ridge wines is what you’ll see commonly referred to as “free run”; meaning, no pressing (or “extraction”) is required to obtain it. The juice essentially just makes its way out of the grapes of its own volition over the course of the fermentation process (In one of the video clips below, you’ll hear winemaker Eric Baugher –over the noise of the press! — explaining that about 75% of the available juice from the vineyard emerges as free run, while the remaining quarter continues to reside in the skins; thus, the press).

Free run juice is traditionally considered to be of a most pure, most elegant, most subtle character. That said, to make wines of the ageable and complex sort that Ridge Vineyards always strives to present, structure is very much required. And given that much of what we consider to be the vital structural components of any given wine are to be found in the skins (color and tannin, for example), a bit of extraction can potentially be very helpful in crafting a final assemblage.

For example, let’s say the free run juice of a particular vineyard parcel proves to be delicious, fruit-forward, elegant, beguiling, but just a tad light on the palate. A bit of pressed juice from the same parcel can be introduced to the “blend,” bringing a bit more intensity, and a tad more muscularity as regards tannin architecture. No tricks; it’s still the same vineyard, the same juice, the same personality, but with a modulated handling, different flavors can be obtained.

To complicate matters, we don’t just press. We do “press fractions.” Meaning, we press the same juice at different levels of intensity (i.e. pressure) and capture the results in separate tanks, so that they can be taste-tested in different assemblages with the core free run juice. Again, no tricks, just different handlings. What you’ll taste in the end is still essentially not much more than pure juice, but depending on whether press juice was added (and what “fraction” thereof it was), and in what amount(s), you’ll experience more or less of certain characteristics. To my mind, it’s a beautiful and singular way to work with what Mother Nature delivers, in such a fashion as to honor her, without changing her.

So, back to our primary story: Japanese Film Crew, Pagani Ranch Grapes, and a press.

Here are a few excerpts of me filming the filming. I hope you enjoy!

Harvest 2011: Everybody Must Get …

September 15, 2011

One of the things that has always impressed me about Ridge Vineyards, and particularly about the good folks who work for Ridge Vineyards, is the extent to which not only does everyone wear a great array of hats around here, but that everyone wants to!

In no realm is this more evident than when it comes to the actual practice of producing wine, and at no time of the year is this more evident than Harvest. Everyone gets into the act, and for those not directly part of the production teams, it’s a tremendous learning opportunity for all concerned.

This year, even our Regional Sales Managers (the “RSMs,” colloquially) got the chance to get their hands dirty, logging some heavy miles in the vineyards and in the winery. And mind you, these are Planes, Trains, and Automobiles folks; these are the ones constantly on the move, city to city to city, wine dinner to wine dinner to wine dinner, wine shop to wine shop to wine shop. They are, by definition, urbanites. The cities are their bread and butter, the roads and the skies their realms. They accrue miles like kids collect Tetris points. They need new tires every four months. They do not have permanent addresses. Ok, that last part isn’t true, but what is true is that they are most decidedly not farmers.

And yet, just last week, there they were, heading out into the vineyards.

And in good company too; alongside RSMs Dan Buckler, Christina Donley, and Michael Torino, were David Gates (VP of Vineyard Operations), Kyle Theriot (Monte Bello Viticulturist) and Eric Baugher (VP of Winemaking, Monte Bello); a formidable cadre of viticultural knowledge, and a great team to work beside.

David Gates runs the show in our vineyards, and he led the RSM crew on a sampling expedition, a key endeavor as we near the official beginnings of Harvest 2011.

If you’re not familiar with sampling and why it’s done, you might want to check a previous post (found here) but it’s essentially the practice of collecting grape samples from multiple locations in the vineyards, to test them for progress. The grapes are sorted into small Ziploc bags …

crushed (being done below by Regional Sales Managers Michael Torino and Dan Buckler) …

…and once turned into juice …

… tested.

Here is Regional Sales Manager Christina Donley, assessing some juice with a refractometer, a field device used to determine sugar levels (Brix) in grapes …

These RSMs came to work, and work they did; not just at Monte Bello, but also up at our Lytton Springs Estate …

and even all the way down south to Paso Robles, where they were greeted, hosted, and put to work by legendary grower and long-time Ridge partner Benito Dusi …

Eric Baugher with Benito Dusi

 
So next time you see a Ridge Vineyards wine on a shelf, or on a wine list, remember that it wasn’t a salesperson who got it placed there, it was a grape sampler!
 
 
 
(Special thanks to Heidi Nigen, our Marketing Manager, for the great pics!)

A Look Back at the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello (i.e. Event pics!)

September 9, 2011

With all the excitement of harvest looming on the horizon, and all the forward looking this involves, it does indeed seem as if a proper “look back” at the Monte Bello Fall Release Event is in order; even though it was only last weekend!

Anyhow …

On behalf of all of us here at Ridge, and most especially the team here at Monte Bello, I wish to thank everyone who attended this extraordinary happening; I don’t know who was happier, our guests, or us!

I drove up that morning nervous, exhausted, stressed, and unhealthily focused. A huge event afoot, and all responsibilities on my shoulders. I was deranged.

What paused me, and fully recalibrated my psyche, was this:

That’s what I was looking at as I was unlocking the driveway gate. I was instantly unwound.

Once inside the Old Winery Barn, it was down to my office. That’s when things started to heat up again. So much to do, so little time. Staff began to arrive, the catering team arrived, the parking team arrived. So many people. I was beginning the routine that would be mine the rest of the day; running laps around the property. I was frenzied.

But pause was soon again given. It was tasting time.

You probably know by know just how good these new vintages are showing. I was happily rediscovering. Point scores are nice, and we’re happy to receive good ones, but at the end of the day, the wines have to perform when it matters most; when YOU’RE tasting them. I mean, sure the new issue of Wine Advocate had just simply showered down praises on these wines (97 points for the 2008 Monte Bello, and 95 points each for the 2009 Lytton Springs and the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay!) …

… but what were YOU going to think?

After tasting the line-up, I felt very good. Very, very good. And I felt that you, too, were going to feel very, very good.

Which was good, given that the first arrivals were starting to arrive, and as expected, the event had drawn out a hearty crop of serious Ridge-o-Philes. And believe you me, these weren’t the only two seriously vintage Ridge shirts I would see, though these are certainl two classic and excellent examples:

So it was go time, and we were ready. We had a great team on hand, the wines were showing beautifully, and some very key members of the winemaking team were in the house:

Paul Draper & Eric Baugher talking Monte Bello winemaking ...

Shun Ishikubo pouring 1992 Monte Bello out of magnum ...

Tara pouring below the ghosts of founders past ...

 

Zani expertly enacts the art of wine tasting merriment ...

 

Pete pours cool as a cucumber in the face of hot demand ...

No discussion of the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello is complete without acknowledging the presence of Pizza Politana. Not only did they manage to actually drive a wood-fired pizza oven up our mountain, but they then proceeded to serve some of the most delicious (and PERFECTLY paired) offerings we’ve ever had the pleasure of placing alongside our wines.
 
 
But a great idea (wood-fired pizza oven truck!), great ingredients (local, sustainable, organic, NorCal farmer’s market fare), and great pairing do not a great event make. It takes great staff, and the folks from Pizza Politana were tops.
 
 
 Things were definitely getting intense. You know when you’re starting to golf-cart the guests in that the event is really starting to happen.
 
 
Then suddenly this …
 
 
 … becomes this!
 
 
Fortunately, there was this to adjourn to (once the collective tummy was full up on pizza and wine!) …
 
 
Yeah, that’ll do …
 
 
 What a day, what a day …
 
When I began assembling the components of what have become this post, I was looking for one image, something that could somehow capture the magic of it all; I found this, and figured I had it …
 
 
Pizza and Monte Bello. Perfect.
 
But in looking through all the images I’d shot over the day, there was another idea that I just couldn’t shake, and in the end, it’s what I’ve decided to go with; the bookend.
 
After all was said and done, and I was coming down the mountain …
 
 
… I knew, finally and for certain, that all was well.
 

New Fall Releases: The Winemaker Video!

September 2, 2011

As they did with the Spring Releases, our winemaking team recently got together for a tasting of all the wines we’re releasing this month, and again as with the Spring edition, we captured it all on video!

So, for your viewing pleasure, please enjoy Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney as they discuss 2009 Lytton Springs, 2009 York Creek, 2009 Pagani Ranch, 2008 Monte Bello, 2008 Chardonnay Monte Bello, and 2009 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah! (Moderated by David Amadia, Vice President, Sales + Marketing)

2011 Fall Releases – Tasting with Winemakers from Ridge Vineyards on Vimeo.

Unbelievable “Three Decades of Monte Bello” tasting! Open to you!

August 1, 2011

It’s exactly one month until Cabernet Day. That is to say, #CabernetDay!

#CabernetDay!

The second annual.

It’s an international phenomenon, a worldwide celebration of all things Cabernet, taking place across all social media platforms.

In Bangladesh? Join in! Buenos Aires? Can’t wait to chat! Baltimore? See you on Facebook! Blaenau Ffestiniog? I’ll be looking for your tweets!

Ridge Vineyards is ALL IN on this one, boyos and birds!

Ever heard of a lil’ ol’ wine called Monte Bello? You can bet we’ll be doing #CabernetDay. And dig how we’ll be doing it …

On September 1st, at both of our estate locations (Lytton Springs and Monte Bello) we’ll be offering special by-appointment seated tastings of not only a three-vintage vertical of our Estate Cabernet (2004, 2005, & 2006), but a THREE-DECADE VERTICAL OF MONTE BELLO! And not just any three-decade vertical, mind you. We’ll be tasting the 1985 Monte Bello, the 1995 Monte Bello, and …. drum roll … the 2001 Monte Bello! Yup, the vintage that just got a 99 POINT RATING FROM ROBERT PARKER!

Listen, I’m biased, and I admit it. There is a reason I work for Ridge Vineyards. But I’m telling you, with total objectivity front and center, you’re simply out of your mind if you miss this. This is one of those rare tasting opportunities that just don’t come along that often, and I really, really, really hope that you can come. 

Now, of course I won’t really think you’re insane if you miss this. I just really  think you should come taste these wines with us. I really do.

So, on to the important part. To reserve your place at the tasting table, just click here.

There, you’re done.

In fact, you’re already here. It’s already the 1st. You’re already seated at the table. Your host is pouring the first wine into your glass. Angels are out in broad daylight, plucking soothing melodies on harps of gold outside the window. The sun’s soft finger is lightly brushing the back of your neck. All over the world, people are laying down their guns. The markets are surging. The wind whispers your name, and you say “Yes, it is I.” Somewhere a puppy is born.

If the puppy and the angels and the 99-point rating didn’t get you, here is a look at the wines we’ll be offering:

1985 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Excellent umami aromatics! Plus, lovely wafts of cedar and pipe tobacco, with a hint of boysenberries. Meticulously elegant point-of-entry, laying soft on the tip of the tongue and skipping into the cheeks with some nice acidity and a touch of sweetly, modestly covered tannin. Good dark fruit mid-palate, with some rusticity and earth rumbling through. Not particularly weighty; an easy sipper. The finish shows a bit of the age, but no degradation, just nice, mature, pure and quality Cabernet fruit. As gentle as it gets, and fascinating accordingly. 

1995 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Rich, concentrated, compact and compressed nose, a muscular jolt of big red fruit, cassis, anise, fig, and leather. Huge at the front, taking up every available space at point-of-entry. Unctuous and lush, a whole lot of wine on offer. Mid-palate opens up and shows some cherry and mixed red berries, and spreads a plush quilt of viscosity seamed with fine-grained tannins and a lingering hint of eucalyptal herbaceousness. The finish is intensely structured; amazing for a wine that’s been in bottle nearly 15 years. Almost impossibly youthful still, but with a load of meat on the bone.

2001 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Good lord, what a lot of wine! This is an intense, intense vintage; the nose is positively loaded! Ripe, rich, sweet, cola and licorice and blackberry pie! The mouthfeel is just about as viscous as the aromatics would lead you to believe, with a luxuriant point-of-entry and a multi-tiered middle that, despite all the decadence, ripeness, and viscosity, still manages to showcase the herbs, spice, and forestation of a classic Monte Bello. The finish is strong on blue fruit and nice dusky tannins, but overall, the wine is still almost mind-bendingly young. Perfect proof that big doesn’t mean sabotaging balance; this is every bit as graceful as, say, the 1985 described above, but this is a bigger, wilder rendition.

If you’d like to see Eric Baugher’s recent tasting notes on this vintage (Eric is our VP of winemaking here at Monte Bello), well, good luck!

The important things to note in there are words like “Fresh, alive, layered, complex,” and “youthful/delicious,” and “young and capable +15-20 more years.”

Anyhow, the amazing thing about the whole #CabernetDay phenomenon is that it really and truly does play out as envisioned; we participated last year, and it was truly remarkable. People from all over the world, literally, tasting their favorite Cabernets at the same time, sharing their thoughts on-line, engaging in dialogue, talking. This is what wine does. It makes you talk. With other people. About pleasant things. Like wine.

Seriously, every liquid indulgence has its effect; beer makes you sleepy and want to play pinball. Tequila makes you quiet and want to hit people with pool cues. Vodka makes you dance way too much, and not well, and then completely forget that you danced way too much, and not well. Martinis make you have more martinis, taking you swiftly  from sophisticated to unconscious. Absinthe makes you see dead people. But wine? Ah, wine. Wine makes you nice. And comfortable. Wine makes you feel like cooking, and sharing your cooking with other people. Wine makes you not only tell good stories, but listen to them as well. No one ever opened a newspaper and read of a murder-suicide committed after drinking a bottle of single-vineyard Cabernet. No, wine makes you congenial, and poetic. Wine makes you like music, and bread. Wine makes people love people.

This is what happens on #CabernetDay. People love people.

And now, with our new and very special #CabernetDay tastings, you can love Cabernet and people both, and you can do so both virtually, and in proximity.

Please consider yourselves invited.

What Were You Wearing Then?

May 16, 2011

I just very recently had the opportunity to host the very great John Tilson for a tasting. If you know John, you’ll likely know him either from The Underground Wine Letter or The Underground Wine Journal, depending on how far back your wine drinking eras stretch. But in either case, if you do know him, you’ll know him to be one of the great, truly great wine writers, but more than that, one of the great palates, and even more than that, one of the great figures in the world of wine. And if you don’t know him, but have even the remotest interest in wine, then it is my considered opinion that you owe it to yourself to, in some fashion, make his acquaintance. I heartily recommend starting with The Underground Wine Letter.

The opportunity to host these three men, Paul Draper, John Tilson, and Eric Baugher, was for me an unparalled opportunity to experience firsthand a sophistication of oenophilic dialogue one rarely gets to osmosize. I could have listened all day, and then some.

Probably needless to say, a bevy of wonderful wines were on offer, including the stellar line-up of new spring releases. John was clearly taken by both the 2007 Monte Bello, and perhaps somewhat surprisingly, by the 2009 Ponzo. Not that the Ponzo is ever a lesser wine, not by any means. But its cooler climate, Russian River aesthetic renders it a bit of an anomaly in the grand pantheon of Californian zinfandel, thus the surprise. As John noted, it is so bright, so elegant, so fresh, so vibrant, so smooth, it would be hard to pinpoint it as a zin were it tasted blind. I like to believe John’s long and exalted history with Burgundian wines positions his palate to be ideally suited for easily grasping the singularity of this offering.

All that said, the stars of the show came from the library, and in this case, in magnum form. Specifically, magnums of 1987 Geyserville and Lytton Springs!

So, just to give yourself pause, and to give yourself a true scope of just how durable and ageworthy these wines are, just  ask yourself; what were you wearing then? In 1987? What were you wearing then? And when you answer yourself, if that doesn’t give you a deep sense of scale as regards the lovely longevity of these wines, I don’t quite know what else to do to bring the point home. Certainly, the gulf between the me of 1987 and the me of now is a wide one … or is it?

But what about you? Did you look like this?

Or this?

Or this?

Or maybe even this???

So take a trip back in time, and have a look at the you of 1987. Were you still just a twinkle in your father’s eye, or were you rocking a mullet?

I, for one, am happy that 1987 was a good year for Ridge wine; it certainly wasn’t a good year for my wardrobe. I seem to remember a particularly noteworthy pair of fuchsia Levis I was awfully fond of …

Live Virtual Tasting: Footage Now Available!

April 18, 2011

We very recently presented a live virtual tasting of our new Spring Releases, with winemakers Eric Baugher (VP of Winemaking/Monte Bello) and John Olney (VP of Winemaking/Lytton Springs) weighing in on the new vintages. Moderated by David Amadia (VP of Sales and Marketing), the tasting took place out on the beautiful knoll here at Monte Bello (To see behind-the-scenes pics from the shoot, please click here), and was truly a unique happening.

The event went out streaming live online, but you can now view the archived footage on our website, by clicking here.

If you’d like to experience the gentlemen above discussing new vintages of Estate Chardonnay and Cabernet, plus Geyserville, East Bench, Ponzo, and Paso Robles, as they field questions from online viewers, than you won’t want to miss this!

And speaking from personal experience, as one who has been regularly tasting and showing these new releases, it’s a tremendous roster of offerings, and I think this video can only serve to continue heightening the excitement around the new crop.

Enjoy!

2010 Harvest Report!

February 23, 2011

If you’re a member of our Monte Bello Collector program and/or have an interest in Monte Bello, or perhaps just like to keep up on microclimatic tendencies on our lil’ mountain, then you might wish to know that winemaker Eric Baugher has completed the 2010 Harvest Report!

Harvest 2010

It’s been an extraordinary growing season across all of Northern California’s wine countries, and I imagine ours is not the only harvest report that will be read with some interest; all aspects of the press have been full of assessments running from the dire to the devout, with naysayers predicting doom and gloom and the optimistic touting a vintage of rare but spectacular offerings.

We are certainly of the latter school; as Eric notes below, “Despite the temperamental year, we couldn’t have asked for anything finer than what nature finally gave us.”

And with that, I give you the 2010 Monte Bello Harvest Report!

At Monte Bello, a cold, drawn-out winter brought heavy, ground-saturating rains. Budbreak was delayed a month— pushed back to late April at the 2700′ level. Persistent rain and cold weather through June delayed fruit set to early July. Fortunately the rain let up, and for most of summer, our elevation kept the vines above the fog. There were, however, more than the usual number of days when fog and cold crept up and over the ridge. All signs pointed to this being one of the latest Monte Bello harvests in Ridge history.

Careful adjustment of yields can make or break a vintage. Given the cold season, and weather volatility over the past five years, we thinned even before the fruit had changed from green to red (veraison). To improve odds of ripening the crop before any rain, we dropped 45% of the young cabernet and merlot, and 20 to 25% on everything else. Unexpectedly, the weather warmed in September, only to cool again in early October. Miraculously, heat returned in the last half of October. Harvest at Monte Bello began with chardonnay, picked from September 26 to October 19, and continued with merlot (October 3 – 28) and cabernet sauvignon (October 15 – November 5). From the start, petit verdot was the farthest behind. We had thinned half the crop after veraison, and installed reflective material below the vines on alternating rows to enhance photosynthesis. The grapes responded, ripening far more quickly than expected. Picked on October 15, they were the ripest of all the blocks.

The forty vineyard parcels were subdivided into forty-nine separate fermentations. Roughly half were from parcels designated Monte Bello, half from those designated Estate. All but a handful were sorted at the crush station. The sorting machinery, installed for the 2009 vintage, had a new component—another conveying table. This gave us a chance to do one last sort before pumping to the fermentors. Natural yeasts were healthy, and quick to start. Color and tannin were abundant, extracting rapidly. For most tanks, pump-overs were scaled back. Toward the end of fermentation, based on taste, we performed a final pump-over to fill out body, then racked and pressed. Most of the press wine was too tannic to blend immediately into the free run. These press fractions were pumped to individual barrels. Later—again determined by tasting—we may include some of the most balanced press wine.

At this time, the various lots have been put to barrel and are finishing malolactic. The incredible flavors we noticed in the fermentors have developed further. Depth of structure and complexity are unlike any past vintage. Despite the temperamental year, we couldn’t have asked for anything finer than what nature finally gave us. It was an exhausting few months for us all, but the vines have produced a truly magnificent vintage. EB (1/11)



Better Late Than Never: The ZAP Wrap In Pics!

February 14, 2011

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