Posts Tagged ‘Buchignani Ranch’

Winter Wine Series: The Finale!

December 18, 2009

This Saturday will be the final edition of Winter Wine Series in the Ridge Vineyards Tasting Rooms (Lytton Springs & Monte Bello), and we’re closing out the run with a lovely selection of wines to sample. As we always do with Winter Wine Series, we’ll be featuring wines from some our specially assembled Holiday Gift Packs, and for this final Saturday, we’ll be presenting wines from our “Buchignani” Holiday Pack, and our “ATP” Holiday Pack. Which means guests will not only have the opportunity to taste some of our most limited-production, winery-only offerings, but they will also be afforded the chance to sample wines crafted from some of the oldest plantings in our portfolio.

Let’s take a look at the Buchigani pack first. This is a two-bottle offering consisting of wines from the Buchignani Ranch, a beautiful old-vine vineyard located on the Northwestern edge of the Alexander Valley appellation, in the hills bordering the upper Dry Creek Valley appellation. Specifically, Stan Buchignani’s ranch is located on Dutcher Creek Road.

The wines on offer are the 2005 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, and the 2007 Buchignani Ranch Carigane. The carignane in particular is quite a singular wine; a rare case of carignane being offered in solo-varietal capacity.

The majority of the vineyard’s carignane was planted in the 1940s. Stan’s grandfather, Dominico Cerruti, planted the first block in 1927; his father, Dino, planted the last in the early 1950s. The vineyard’s climate bears a strong resemblance to that of upper Dry Creek Valley three miles to the south, where days are warm. Fog, which tends to hang low in the valley, burns off sooner in the hills. Carignane from Buchignani is complex, its fine structure much like that of a field-blend zinfandel. The zinfandel from this property is equally notable; the zinfandel block, approximately five acres in size, was planted in the 1940s and ’50s on a rocky knoll overlooking the family home, where Stan Buchignani, grandson of the ranch’s founder, Dominico Cerruti, lives today. Together, these wines reflect a truly remarkable property in all its rustic glory.

And now, on to the “ATP” pack. For those of you who might not be familiar, ATP stands for Advance Tasting Program, and it is one of our three member programs here at Ridge.  Launched in 1978, the Advance Tasting Program (ATP) provides members the opportunity to receive very limited, single-vineyard wines. Though past releases have included several other varietals, zinfandel and Rhone blends remain the primary focus.

For this particular Holiday Pack, we have selected a trio of zinfandels from three very unique properties; the 2004 Oltranti, the 2006 Old School, and the 2006 Dusi Ranch. The Oltranti and the Old School vineyards are both located in Alexander Valley, and the Dusi Ranch down in Paso Robles. This affords tasters an excellent opportunity to assess the degree to which micro-climatic singularities (terroir, if you will) can deeply affect the character of a wine. Plus, we have different vintages on offer here, 2004 for the Oltranti, and 2006 for both the Old School and the Dusi; an equally instructive opportunity, allowing for a look at how bottle age and maturation will develop the aesthetic profile of a wine. And lastly, we have some great family history here as well; with both the Oltranti and the Dusi Ranch, guests will be sampling the wares of dedicated family producers. Niccolo and Flora Oltranti purchased the old Mazzoni Home Ranch in 1987 (where the Oltranti planting is located). They set about restoring this historic property, working on the buildings and tending the surviving nineteenth-century vines. Once the old vines recovered, Nic and son Paul turned to the abandoned hillside vineyards above. Replanted to an old zinfandel field selection, these young vines (the Oltranti planting) have begun to produce the quality that seems inherent to this exceptional zinfandel site. And as to the Dusi Ranch property, Ridge and the Dusis go way back. The zinfandel on this Paso Robles ranch was first planted in 1923. It was purchased soon after by Sylvester and Catarina Dusi, who raised three sons there—Guido, Dante, and Benito. When Guido and Dante went to war in 1944, vineyard cultivation was left to Sylvester and young Benito—eleven at the time. Beni, as his many friends call him, maintained the vines from then on. Ridge’s long relationship with Beni and the Dusi vineyard began when Dave Bennion—scouting the area in 1967—knocked on the Dusi’s door and asked to buy five tons of grapes.

And that’s the scoop on this weekend’s offering! If you will be in the area of either Lytton Springs or Monte Bello, I heartily encourage you to stop in and sample these fine offerings. Looking forward to seeing you! And don’t forget, net proceeds from all the tasting fees for Winter Wine Series are being donated to local food banks!

Second Harvest (at Monte Bello)
Redwood Empire Food Bank  (at Lytton Springs)

For more information about Winter Wine Series please click here, to see the weekend tasting flights for Lytton Springs please click here, and to see the weekend tasting flights for Monte Bello please click here.

RIDGE In The Round: The RIDGE Round Table Reviews The New 2007 Buchignani Ranch Carignane!

July 6, 2009

So, it’s time for another edition of RIDGE In The Round, and in keeping with my currently obsessive focus on Carignane, the RIDGE Round Table reviews the new 2007 RIDGE Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane, which was the ATP Wine Program release for June. My compatriots for this tasting were Zani Nesvacil, Sam Howles-Banerji, Karen Cai, and Darren Gardner.

Before I commence with a round-up of our Round Table, I want to pass on a link to some backround information on the new Carignane. You can click here to read Winemaker John Olney’s notes.

Ok, on to the show!

Right out of the gate, everyone got very excited by the stunningly complex color of this wine. Oddly enough perhaps, one taster described it as being “light ruby in color” while another deemed it “crimson; deep & rich,” clearly indicating the degree of hue complexity this wine offers in  the glass. Still another described it as “blackberry purple,” and another as “ruby red with a hint of purple/blue.” Personally, I took a slightly different approach, describing it as being roughly the same shade as the stains on one’s fingers after going blackberry picking in Maine. But that’s just me … Mainly, it was really impressive to see this range of characterization regarding color; that’s not usually a realm of much debate! In addition to discussions of color two tasters commented on the relatively slender and rapidly-moving legs, which seemed to bespeak a reasonably less-than-weighty mouthfeel, which indeed proved to be the case.

Aromatics proved to be a very interesting set of discussions. Everybody got on the berry train, but there wasn’t a lot of agreement about just what sort of berry notes we were experiencing. Some felt a blackberry character, which I was in agreement with, though others got stronger notes of blueberry, which I didn’t so much experience. One taster chimed in with dried cranberry, and while no one else had noted that originally, all immediately agreed there was a strong showing of this in the bouquet. There was general agreement on a certain sweetness to the aromatics as well, probably most unifiedly described as a lightly oak-derived waft of caramel; interesting, given that the wine was only in barrel for 12 months, and with only 10% of those barrels being new oak. But it was there! I personally felt there was a certain herbality to the nose, almost but not quite eucalyptal, more of a grassier character, not dissimilar from chamomile tea leaves. I also got a tremendous amount of cherry strains, though apparently more so than the rest of the gang did. Two tasters felt there was some smoke to the aromatics, but only in minute strains. With that last disclaimer in place, I was inclined to agree, but only slightly!

Front-palate invited a near-universal response; what acidity! Tip of  the tongue, sides of the tongue, back of the tongue, inside the cheeks, on the roof of the mouth; we were all pretty much salivating right away; this wine redefines mouth-watering! In a good way certainly, which a slew of food pairing suggestions coming up immediately: lamb chops, traditional autumnal turkey and stuffing, grilled chicken, herbed alfredo sauce pasta, baked brie, grilled bacon-wrapped apples, etc. Color-as-metaphor-wise, the references were all red all the time: red plum, red raspberry, red cherry, red, red, red (but no strawberries!). Probably the most interesting facet, as we moved into the mid-palate discussions, was the interfacing of some unexpectedly sweet fruit notes juxtaposed up against the more expected tart characteristics (notably, some ever-so-slightly tart yellow plum flesh strains). One taster made the rather spot-on notation of dusty bay leaves, which all were pleased to discover upon having been alerted … The sweet/tart balance probably found its most effective reference in the yellow-flesh plum, in that the wine seemed to both evidence qualities of sweet plum skin and tart plum flesh …

To the collective RIDGE In The Round palate, the finish showed two key characteristics; a certain warmth (not alcohol heat, mind you, just warmth), and intensely mouth-watering tannins across the back of the tongue/taste buds; again, we were all salivating!

Overall, everyone appeared very positive about this wine, finding it to be both a classically lean, acidity-driven carignane with an unexpectedly supple mid-palate, and a surprisingly buoyant fruit offering; it’s every so slightly tart in a perfectly culinary companion sort of way, it’s bright with loads of red fruits, it’s mouth-watering and saliva-inducing, it’s warm but not hot, and its exceptionally approachable, particularly given that it’s a 100% solo varietal carignane.

Which is all well and good, but the real key, according to one taster, is that this wine is a “baby making wine!” Or, as the significant other of said taster has apparently put it, it’s “liquid excellence!”


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