Posts Tagged ‘1978 Monte Bello’

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 22, 2012

I am an admittedly idiosyncratic traditionalist, in that I am rarely much for traditional traditions, but am conversely rather boffo for my own rather less-than-traditional iterations thereof; which makes it all the more of a personal revolution in the offing that I am posting these words today.

This is, of course, the rambling preambling to the preamble of my annual “Things I’m Thankful For” post; which I traditionally, per the terms of my own tradition, post on the 23rd of November. Which I was dead on track for doing again this year. Except here it is, Thanksgiving, and I’m feeling all thankful-laden, and it simply feels odd not to commit these lines to the blog-o-web on this most gratitudinous of days. Yet it’s the 22nd, a proposition that defies convention. But blast it all, tradition be damned, what? On with the show! Pip Pip!

When I ponder the word Thankful, I see my wife’s face. As I do when I ponder the other following words:

Fortunate, Blessed, and Grateful.

These are of course self-referential. When I simply ponder her, as opposed to how I feel when I consider the blessing upon me that is she, these then are some of the words that come to mind:

Wise, Beautiful, Magical, Powerful, Amazing, Fragile, Astounding, Tender, Perfect, and Love.

I am so thankful for my wife. My friend, my lover, my partner, my wife. I am so thankful for my wife. One can define the almighty in whatever ways one wishes, of course; but if the definition of God has something to do with that which gives life to life, that which governs all, that foundational being that is the alpha and omega of all things, then she has dominion over all my world. She is the Bodhisattva come to help me, the Savior come to save me, the God come to raise me. I am so thankful for my wife.

And I am so thankful for my daughter, before whom I am a positively helpless puddle of mush. What hasn’t this small, beautiful creature given to me? There is no shade of blue in the sky, no streak of green in the sea, that she has not alerted me to. No whisper of wind in the night, no chirp of bird in the day, that she has not called my ears toward. There is no tear duct in my eye she has not drained of its feeling, no cavity of my heart that she has not filled. What hue of autumn leaf, what scent of springtime blossom, has she not drawn me to? What a thing, to have a daughter! I am so thankful for my daughter.

For my wife, and my daughter, I am so thankful. A Love Supreme.

Which reminds me that I am also distinctly grateful for John Coltrane.

And wine glass sizes drawn in fractions. Like 19.75 oz. glasses.

And the wines that inhabit them.

Like, perhaps, the 1981 Monte Bello, which tasted so fine just this past Sunday.

Which would also taste so fine in, for example, a flat-bottom glass.

I am so thankful for people who drink red wine from flat-bottom glasses.

And grandparents. There is no insanity like the insanity of grandparents. That my little family of three – Papa Bear, Mama Bear, Baby Bear – has two hearty and hale sets of grandparents, is a blessing beyond compare. To watch our little girl in their blissful company is a gift unimaginable. I am so thankful for our parents; grandparents to our wonderful daughter. I am so thankful for this.

As I am for the knoll at Monte Bello. Such a place to stand and contemplate the void, to be temporarily one with the ancestors staring at the walls and seeing truth.

I am thankful for poetry, and the wines that have, through time, lubricated its fragile and complex gears.

Like, for example, the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, which tasted so fine just … yesterday.

There are few moments greater than the moment when your father and your wife bring to their respective lips the wine you have poured for them. I am thankful for these moments.

I am thankful for Haiku.

I am thankful for people who do not ask me to throw away their chewing gum upon their arrival at the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

In fact, I am thankful for people who do not chew gum.

I am thankful for wooden canes, and limping through vine rows relying on one.

I am thankful for Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson. If you’ve ever come to Monte Bello, and accordingly felt a bit of magic enter your soul and there take up permanent residence, there to be called upon whenever your worry and care threaten to overwhelm you in the pursuit of your conventional happinesses, it is likely because you were moved by Amy and/or Sam and/or Kirsten. They are in the practice of providing memories that will last forever, and they are rather excellent at this endeavor. They have given me so much to be thankful for, and are to me canonical saints in the pantheon of Monte Bello magic.

I am thankful for the word canonical.

And the word Vertical. And the thing that is, in winespeak, a Vertical.

And the Estate Cabernet Vertical, which will not be available for much longer. I am thankful it is still available, because the 2004 Estate Cabernet, is, in particular, one of the best wines I’ve ever had. It was also one of my first loves upon joining the family at Ridge, and in it, I taste my good fortune.

I am thankful for P.G. Wodehouse, for having given to the world Jeeves and Bertie Wooster, of whose exploits with the cow-creamer, last night, were so delightful to read.

I am thankful that I do not believe in decent-tasting “entry-level” wines costing $10/bottle, any more than I believe in decent-sounding “entry-level” Telecasters costing $100.

I am thankful for windows that lock and unlock with ease.

I am thankful for wines that taste especially fine whilst standing at windows gazing out at trees in autumn. Like the 1992 Monte Bello, which, out of a 375ml bottle, tastes especially fine whilst standing at a window (open or closed, whatever, it’s easy to lock and unlock) gazing out at a tree in autumn.

I am thankful for candles.

I am thankful for bow-ties, which, perhaps come the New Year, I shall resolve to wear more of.

I am thankful for champys, and the people who use the term.

And for the people who drink champys.

I am thankful for champys.

And Bodhisattvas.

I am thankful that Ridge has found a place in its heart to place me.

I am thankful that, in lieu of a manpurse, I wear sportcoats.

I am thankful for everyone who comes to Monte Bello in the summertime, and doesn’t comment of the fact that I am wearing a sportcoat.

I am thankful for Aaron, Antonio, Barry, Emma, Jane, Jenny, Karen, Kathryn, Kim, Lori, Michael, Nancy, Peter, Samantha, Sonja, and Tara. Because Hospitality is holy, and they are the true keepers of the faith. The foundational saints. The canonical hosts. To truly “host” a guest is an essential act of love, compassion, empathy, sympathy, faith, and kindness. I am thankful for these wonderful human beings, and for the generosity of spirit they so consistently offer.

I am thankful for the XTC song “Dear God.”

I am thankful that the new 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch is such an absolutely excellent contribution to the Mazzoni canon.

I am thankful for high-quality buff cloths, and the wine hosts that know how to use them.

I am thankful for ritual, and what it teaches us, and I am thankful that the world of wine is so ritualized.

I am thankful for people who, when confronted by those who know a bit more than themselves about something, think first, “Wonderful!” as opposed to “Snob!”

I am thankful that I know so little, because I look so forward to learning.

I am thankful that a great deal of my “work” at Ridge is “learning” more about wine.

Learning more about, for example, the 2007 Monte Bello. For reasons soon to be revealed!

I am thankful for things that are soon to be revealed, as I do not enjoy surprises or secrets, though I am thankful for them. Thankful that they offer the opportunity for revelation.

I am thankful for Son House.

I am thankful for anyone who can figure out a way to work wine into a tattoo without looking like a rather foolish sort.

I am thankful for Syrah co-fermented with Viognier.

I am thankful that part of my “job” at Ridge involves sitting at table with people like Kathy and Ingrid, and “working” on food & wine pairings.

I am thankful that I very often have occasion, while at work at Ridge, to deploy the term “culinarily companionable.”

I am thankful that I get to write this blog. Not only is it a still-very-overwhelming honor, but it also allows me to make up a great many words; a great many made-up words that, when discovered and subsequently called out as being made-up, become the springboard for me to deliver my patented lecture on the true value of language and its purposes. Which no one needs to hear anymore.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for trumpet mutes, and the jazz players who deploy them.

I am thankful that Ridge makes wine like Thelonious Monk made chords.

I am thankful that Sumano’s bakery makes Watsonville Sourdough.

I am thankful for drinking wine, eating bread and cheese, and riding ferries.

I am thankful that Bellwether Farms makes San Andreas. And I am thankful for being able to taste it while sipping on 1978 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for harvest videos, and the opportunity to make them.

I am thankful for #Harvest2012.

I am thankful that I do not dream in hashtags.

I am thankful that if one Googles “Generation X Characteristics,” the very first entry that appears lists the following:

• Cynical

• Skeptical

• Independent

• Problem-solvers/resourceful

• Defy Authority

• Reality driven

• Distaste “touchy feely”

• Technology Competent

• Resist Hierarchy

• Multitasker

I am thankful that I still manage to rarely use the word “Google” as a verb.

I am thankful for walking cities.

I feel thankful when I go walking in a city, and the person I am walking with says, “My, that looks like a nice wine shop!”

I am thankful for Christopher Robin, Winnie the Pooh, and all the denizens of the Hundred-Acre Wood.

I am thankful for the poet Sharon Olds, because she writes about woman things in ways that can truly move a man.

I am thankful that as soon as we were installed in our little post-birth “hotel” at the hospital, my very exhausted and triumphantly beautiful wife called for Cava and Monte Bello.

I am thankful that when my wife calls for champys, she calls for Coupe glasses.

I am thankful for coupe glasses.

I am thankful for trains.

I am thankful for movies made before 1970.

I am thankful for music made before 1980.

I am thankful for wine made before 1990.

I am thankful for balsamic vinegar made before 2000.

I am thankful for books made before 2010.

I am thankful for wonderful exceptions to the above.

I am thankful for wine poured before I wrote “I am thankful for wine poured …,” like, for example, any of our Syrah/Grenache blends.

I am currently thankful for the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache, and I am previously grateful for all the other vintages.

I am thankful that my daughter just announced that her Grandpa “stinks like Thanksgiving.”

I am thankful that some people still roller skate.

I am thankful for limousine drivers that do not park in spaces reserved for the disabled.

I am thankful for wine drinkers that are not drunkards.

I am thankful that calm, clear-headed, self-possessed, serious, alert, concerned, cool, exacting, rigorous, thoughtful, vigilant, and pure are all synonyms for “sober.”

I am thankful that, while it’s today in the news that it’s going to happen, Nikki Sixx’s “Heroin Diaries” is not yet, in fact, a Broadway Musical.

I am thankful that, for the fourth year in a row, I have the opportunity to praise Haig’s Hummus. I am thankful for Haig’s Hummus. And I am thankful for the way Haig’s Hummus tastes when it’s in your mouth, wrapped up in a big balloon-size swallow of Ridge chardonnay.

I am thankful for Ridge Chardonnay. Especially the 2010 Monte Bello Chardonnay, which, when released, will F%*&KIN blow your mind.

I am thankful for %*&.

I am thankful that we have a President who likes wine.

I am thankful for Zen.

I am thankful for the Monterey Bay, and how it makes Carignane taste. Especially Ridge Carignane. Which always tastes so nice, but tastes especially nice when sipped next to Monterey Bay.

I am thankful for John Olney, and I am thankful for the Carignane that he makes.

I am thankful for everyone at Lytton Springs, and for the opportunity to make this appreciation public. I am especially thankful for my counterpart Sandy Johnson, because her greatness humbles me daily, and it is good to be humbled. And I am thankful for her friendship, because it is good to have friends. And I am thankful for her colleagues that I get to, albeit infrequently, work with, namely Jason and Eliot. I wish I got to see them more, because I am always thankful for the opportunity. And it’s good to be thankful.

I am thankful that I rarely see myself in the mirror making air quotes.

I am thankful for Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney, David Gates, Kyle Theriot, Will Thomas, Shun Ishikubo, and Muiris Griffin, for the absurdity of how much they’ve taught me, and how patient they’ve been with me.

I am thankful for when Petit Verdot gets ripe. Because if swampy and funky can become fragrant and floral, then beauty is forever possible.

I am thankful for every moment there is not violence.

I am thankful for funny instructions on fading paper, push-pinned to dirty corkboard, that say things like, “If  you see a mountain lion, don’t bend over,” because who bends over when they see a mountain lion? And I am thankful that this is based on a true story.

I am thankful for true stories. And made up ones as well.

I am thankful for the opportunity to read poems that were written by people who were drinking wine while they were writing.

I am thankful to Ryan Moore, because he is my boss, and he seems to kind of like me. Which really feels good.

And I am thankful that the fates and powers that blessed Ryan with a wonderful wife have now blessed him with a beautiful, wonderful child, because I am very happy for him, and it’s good to be happy for other people.

I am also happy for myself, and am thankful that I have been blessed with a wonderful wife and a beautiful, wonderful child.

I am thankful that the obvious similarities between myself and my boss obviously continue.

I am thankful for the days when my boss calls and says things like, “Have you tasted the 2007 Dynamite Hill recently?” And I say, “No.” And he says, “Can you pull a bottle and taste it, and tell me what you think?” And I say, “Yes, boss.”

I am thankful for, in no particular order: Love, and the Lack of Hate.

Also for Charlie Christian, Sonny Rollins, Bud Powell, Lester Young, Bill Evans, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Django Reinhardt, Miles Davis, Wes Montgomery, Zoot Sims, and Grant Green.

I am thankful that Duke Ellington is the Monte Bello of Jazz, and that Monte Bello is the Duke Ellington of Wine.

I am thankful for what localism teaches us about being peaceful with one another.

I am thankful that wine from our estates makes people feel peaceful.

I am thankful for peace.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for the certainty that this list will never end, and that, when confronted with all the wonderful things I’ve inadvertently omitted from this iteration of this list, I will have another opportunity at some future time to make amends.

I am thankful for ancient Mountains-and-Rivers Poetry.

I am thankful that I work on a mountain.

I am thankful to Ridge, for forever altering my life in momentous ways I could have never imagined, for, above all else, affording me the means to support my family.

I am thankful to Ridge for trusting me to speak for Ridge.

I am thankful for Merlot.

I am thankful for pine cones.

I am thankful for rattlesnakes, and the ones that don’t bite me.

I am thankful to Penske, for renting me the truck that carried me from New York to California, for helping to prove in yet one more way that Northern California is indeed the promised land, for stopping when I needed it to stop, at that truck stop where I first got on the phone with Nicole and inaugurated the process that would eventually culminate in my being hired by Ridge, and for starting again when it was time to start driving again to California.

I am thankful for my parents. And your parents.

I am thankful for anyone who buys a fine bottle of wine for their parents.

I am thankful for parents who buy Monte Bello from the birth year of their children.

I am thankful for the poetry of Dylan Thomas.

I am thankful for every moment, in every corner of the world, in which someone eats a slice of pizza, then takes a rather healthy swallow of really good wine.

I will never admit it to her, but in truth, I am thankful that my wife did not allow me to name our daughter “Pizza” as I wanted to, because even though this would guarantee I would spend my life saying, “I love you, Pizza” over and over, it wouldn’t have in fact been particularly fair to our daughter, and if there’s one thing that being a parent teaches you, it’s that love means someone else.

I am thankful for pizza.

I am thankful for pizza and wine.

I am thankful for, not Chivas Regal in a $5 room (as Tom Waits had it), but pizza and a $400 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for art, and those who mean to make it.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good day.

I am thankful you read this.

I am thankful for that which you feel thankful for.

I feel thankful for you, whoever you are.

I feel thankful.

I am thankful.

Thank you.

When Naming Your Wine Publication …

June 16, 2012

I am in the Wine Industry, and so of course I do read the “major” publications. Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Advocate, etc.

And I recently got to thinking about the publication titles: Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Advocate.

What’s the unifying thread there?

They are all referential to themselves, and in certain respects, to their assumed demographic. They describe themselves. As spectators, enthusiasts, advocates.

And then there is Decanter.

Now, in writing what I’m about to write, please know that I in no way shape or form mean to play favorites, nor do I mean this as any sort of endorsement of any kind. As I said, I read them all. And I enjoy them all. Admittedly for different reasons, and perhaps even in different degrees, but I read and enjoy them all. So I am not judging or endorsing.

But I do need to note that I do LOVE the name “Decanter” for a publication about wine. Why?

First off, I like that the title seems not to refer to the writers of the magazine (or to the readers), but to an object utilized in the service of preparing and presenting wine.

Or does it?

After all, if one decants a wine, isn’t one then a “decanter?”

Which makes the title of the publication not only different, but clever.

And I love that.

And I will say (full disclosure as regards a personal standpoint), I do love it when Decanter writes about Ridge. Because I think Decanter’s different-ness and cleverness extends to their wine writing as well.

Decanter bills itself as “The world’s best wine magazine,” and while it does publish in over 90 countries the world round (as well as online), its home base in England means that it’s perhaps not as familiar to readers of wine publications in this country. (And if I’m wrong in making this assumption, please let me know!). So I occasionally like to share a bit about what Decanter has written about us, in case you’ve not seen it.

So, I wish to let you know that in the March 2012 issue of Decanter, the rather legendary Steven Spurrier (he of The Judgment of Paris fame) spent a bit of column time assessing Monte Bellos that he tasted at Decanter’s Fine Wine Encounter back in November, and as I feel his tasting notes are quite spot on, I thought I’d share them with you.

Of the 2009 Monte Bell0 (coming to a tasting room near you in September!) Mr. Spurrier wrote that it shows “deep berry fruit and spice, fine middle sweetness and a velvety texture.” To which I would add that this is one of the more decadently inviting and sensual Monte Bellos of recent vintages; it is plush, beguiling, voluptuous, and nearly hedonistic in its intensity.

Of the 2008, Mr. Spurrier wrote that it was “more structured, brambly, and Pomerol-like, with fine concentration.” To which I would add that I bought every drop of my futures allocation on this vintage; as good an endorsement as I can offer!

The 2006 was described as “more rich and chocolatey — less persuasive than the tannic, backward but still superb 2005.” Which I guess is a bit of a backwards compliment to both, but with the germ of truth in there. The 2006 is definitely not what I would call a “persuasive” wine; it is more subtle, more deceptively complex, and shows greater low-tone complexity, making it a wine that wins you over slowly, and with grace. The 2005, conversely, is definitely a big wine; a lot of muscle and structure, but with a wealth of fruit on offer to hang on those architectural bones. And if by backward Mr. Spurrier means that it arrives in its youth with structure front-and-center (as opposed to fruit), then point begrudingly conceded.

Mr. Spurrier also tasted a 1997, followed by a half-bottle of 1992, then a 1984, and he closed with a 1978. The 84 he called “flawlessly firm” — a description I support — and the 78 “beautifully balanced”; an assessment I agree with as well. The 92, however, he described as “warm-fruited,” which I was somewhat surprised by, particularly as it was out of 375ml. I have tasted this wine, from this format, multiple times over the past year, and I find it to be one of the, dare I say it, prettiest of the 90s Monte Bellos. It is soft, beautiful, gentle, aromatic, even coy at times, but above all else, it is, again, pretty. And while “warm-fruited” may not be wholly inaccurate, it is, to me, incomplete.

But all in all, a great summation of taste profiles, and as such, I don my hat.

To you, Decanter magazine, I offer praise; for some wonderful writing, and for having a wonderful name for your publication.

We is all Decanters all!

A Monte Bello Vertical: Video Prep & Haiku Notes

February 19, 2012

I very recently had the opportunity to prepare, serve, and taste a rather preposterously fine vertical of Monte Bello: the 2011 first assemblage, a 2010 barrel sample, and the 2009, (which is in bottle, but not yet released), plus the 1978, the 1984, the 1985, and the 1992.

For a crazy inside-the-velvet-rope insider’s look at the very exclusive inner workings of preparing a tasting of this caliber, please consider viewing the following video …

And as to tasting notes; how best to describe this singular display of magic mojo juju funktasticness? Haiku, of course …

2011 Monte Bello

In these years, when winds
howl cold, and kindness cowers,
such focus, such pride.

2010 Monte Bello

Delivered, I knew
you already, small child; and
already so wise!

2009 Monte Bello

Tenor saxophone
says listen — king of Kansas —
I am the big Jazz.

1992 Monte Bello

Hummingbird stops to
simply sit, sees dawn kiss the
dew; such perfection.

1985 Monte Bello

Noir hero, hard-boiled,
this case defines you; now we
know your deep justice.

1984 Monte Bello

Can it be, with all
this soulful knowledge, you should
 still dance like a child?

1978 Monte Bello

What we all should strive
to be ; past striving. Not old,
not young, simply true.

My New Favorite Wine & Cheese Pairing!

November 30, 2011

Do you know Bellwether Farms? If you’ve ever had a private tasting with us before, you’ve probably tasted their Carmody; it’s been one of our favorite cheeses for quite some time. But I’ve recently discovered a new offering from the fine folks at Bellwether that has just about blown my mind. San Andreas.

I tasted it on its own first, and immediately thought, mature wine. Aged wine. Aged Monte Bello.

Cue the 1978 Monte Bello, one of the finest Monte Bellos ever, and showing so very perfectly right now. I tasted it on its own first as well. Perfect.

And then the pairing.

Complete palate freak out. Total perfection. Decadence. Nirvana. Revelation. Deliciousness. The deep mojo. The Ju-Ju. The HooDoo. The Guru.

I know it’s not everyday one goes opening a bottle like this, but the holiday season is upon us, and that calls for something special.

And this, is something special.

Library Monte Bello, and Bellwether Farms San Andreas.

Bert and Ernie. Yin and Yang. Martini and Olive. Buson and Issa. Peanut Butter and Jelly. Love and Happiness.

A Four-Decade Monte Bello Vertical: Tasting Notes!

August 16, 2010

MB Vertical, Post Tasting!

 

2007 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Deep purple belly in the bowl, with a gorgeous magenta limn … aromatics rich with blueberry, lavender, anise, and fennel, populating an architecture built with great crushed rock and wet-stone minerality … loads of herb & spice front-palate, with hints of pepper, clove, and blackberry-seed tannin … ridiculously full mouthfeel, with almost kinky-supple tannins spreading to every part of the palate … acidity is both vibrant and supple … while the finish is still somewhat short on the palate, the ostensibly empty bowl of the glass, 15 minutes down the line, is still humming a blueberry-and-lavender tune …

2006 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Interwoven ribbons of garnet, magenta, and plum make up the tapestry of hue in the bowl, halo’d by a rich ruby limn; gracefully premeditated legs bespeaking graciousness and depth run elegantly down the glass … aromatics are redolent of plum, currant, quince, and blackberry preserves, with hints of black peppercorn and charrings from the grill … the mouthfeel is round, resolving, and rich without obtuse girth; secondary and tertiary herbatics (herb and spice profiles) dominate, with an emphasis on the autumnal C-triumverate of clove, coriander, and cinnamon … lots of dried fruit notes as well, and a tad leathery (or perhaps suede-y?), with a heavy dose of lip-to-teeth tannins that show a decidedly adhesive intensity, as opposed to, say, a more powdery astringency; less saliva-inducing, and more culinarily companionable …

1995 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Tremendously rich, ripe, meaty, and bloody on the nose (but not gamey!); with a spectrum running from pate to pot roast; hearty and hale, but not at all aged; it’s still only showing the very early stages of secondary maturation characteristics … the color in the bowl is almost black it’s so concentrated; so deep, with no degradation of color at the limn at all; rather, an elegant, pale ruby only barely pokes through … a chandelier’s worth of silky rivulets ring the inside of the bowl; visual elegance incarnate … On the palate, resolution is divine; supple acidity, elegant tannin, all in perfect balance; acidity bright at the first, then tempering, tannins tempered at first, then lingering … at 15 years, this is a promising young athlete, with intellectual maturity beyond its years, physical prowess to die for, and only experience required to complete the conceptual circle …

1984 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Slight bricking in the belly, and some salmon/crimson hues in the limn; elegant viscosity and streamlined legs … aromatics definitely moving towards the dry fruit realm (currant, raisin, plum), all ensconced in a delicious bed of yeast and sugar; almost pannetone-like … remarkably sweet, buoyant fruit on the palate, tremendously relevant and vital acidity, and well-tempered tannins fully integrated … sweetness of the fruit on the finish is just remarkable, possibly decadent, assuredly graceful …

1978 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Deeply rusty and rustic bowl hues; a blackened magenta of sorts, with an amber-y, oolong-tea-ishly-hued limn … wood and bark bracket the aromatics, with hints of dried fruit, exotic cardamom, and a touch of fennel & graphite; there is even a dose of jerked umaminess, and a trace of cured & spiced pepperoni … As to the mouthfeel; plush, supple, seamless, and truly unbelievable! So elegant, so lush, so layered, so silken; not so much the experience of walking on air, but rather, air walking on you …

Tasting Notes: 15-Vintage Monte Bello Vertical! (Milestone and Milestones!)

February 19, 2010

Well, this is a bit of a milestone post for what is still quite a young blog; it’s the 200th post! Accordingly, I want to do something a little special to mark the occasion, and this is what I have to offer:

I very recently had the astonishingly great pleasure of sitting at table with Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, David Gates, David Amadia, Nicole Buttitta, Karen Schmidt, and Shun Ishikubo of Ridge, and Guillaume Bienaime and John Sanders of the very fine restaurant Marché in Menlo Park, to taste through 15 vintages of Monte Bello! Needless to say, it was one of the more extraordinary tasting experiences of my life. My only regret is that we didn’t have all day to sip and savor! But this was work …

So, given the rigor and intensity of the tasting, combined with the unavoidable time constraint of a morning tasting on a workday, we had to move pretty seriously and rapidly through the offerings, and accordingly my notes are somewhat brief and a bit riffy, but I hope they give you at least a reasonably in-focus picture of what an utterly astonishing palate experience this was … sprinkled throughout are some observations from Eric Baugher as well, who very kindly gave me a copy of his notes as a resource.

We tasted the wines in groups, the first of which was a foursome comprised of the 2000, the 2002, the 2004, and the 2005 Monte Bellos. First though, for a proverbial wetting of the whistle, we sampled the 1999 Monte Bello Chardonnay. Mon Dieu! What a delicious wine!

1999 Monte Bello Chardonnay

Warm and nutty on the nose, with hints of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla, and a rich and complex tropicality. Mouthfilling and pleasantly viscous without being at all cloying. Mid-palate weight is intensified by strong minerality and a hint of bread-y yeastiness. The finish is long and woody, yet shows lots of bright acidity. Starting to develop secondary and tertiary maturation characteristics, but still delightfully youthful …

Ok, back to our inaugural foursome: 00, 02, 04, and 05 …

2000 Monte Bello

Elegant and playful, yet deeply concentrated, exhibiting bright notes of pomegranate and cranberry layered over a compellingly dark sub-strata redolent of cocoa, leather, fennel, and cigar-box; notable for the juxtaposition of weight and beauty, deep coloration and vibrant concentration …

2002 Monte Bello

Muscular, viscous, and tannin-forward, with rich notes of tar and earth coating a core of crisp bright red fruits and spicy dried fruits; cherry on the red side, black currant on the dried side … definitely youthful and fragrant, but notable for depth of both strength and length …

2004 Monte Bello

Minty and eucalyptal, with strong hints of cherry and menthol; very vibrant and herbaceous, with deep layers of cassis, leather, and tobacco … very elegant and complex, resolving nicely, and showing classic Monte Bello minerality …

2005 Monte Bello

Big, fruit-forward, and intensely structured, with a vast and complex array of fruit profiles brimming away in the bouquet and infusing the body … loads of mountain fruit character, led by a rich blueberry layer and followed by a delightful violet-laden florality … hints of cassis and blackberry, with a saturated peppering of clove and cardamom over nicely chalky tannins …

Not a bad way to lead off a flight, not by any stretch of the imagination! From there, we proceeded to our next foursome, this time a close look at some key vintages from the nineties: 1991, 1992, 1995, and 1997.

 

1991 Monte Bello

I’ve waxed rhapsodic about this vintage many times before, sometimes to almost embarrassing effect (dig this post!), and this tasting did nothing to dissuade me from the very firm conviction that my affections are most decidedly not misplaced. It’s just wonderful, a fully completed circle, every component perfectly placed, a ballet of integration, reconciliation, and harmony; ripe but tempered, complex yet approachable, dark but fruitful, buoyant yet earthy. A treat to taste …

1992 Monte Bello

Astonishingly complex aromatics, very expressive, with a rich perfume. Elegant but well-structured, with very juicy, concentrated fruit. Nicely compressed juxtapositions of licorice and violet, and cigar and pine. Very present acidity and lively fruits transition from a dense middle through to a long and enticing finish …

1995 Monte Bello

Very firmly structured, and defiantly structure-forward. A nice touch of earthiness, and big fruits paving the way for controlled and subtle acidity. Nice blend of forest floor and wet stone co-mingling with hints of cola and black licorice, making for an overall powerful and complex offering …

1997 Monte Bello

Showing remarkably youthful still, and still opening up accordingly. Fully structure-forward, and still flexing its impending complexities … Starting to develop deep mountain fruit characteristics amongst the already present Monte Bello minerality, and clearly heading for a deep and seductive mid-palate around a nicely earthy core …

This foursome was followed by what I think we all collectively agreed was the surprise grouping of the bunch, a five-wine vertical of 80′s era Monte Bello: 1981, 1984, 1985, 1988, ands 1989. I say surprise because this decade as a whole has suffered some disparagement in the past, but to our collective palates, this was easily the most difficult group to pull favorites from; they all showed magnificently!

 

1981 Monte Bello

Deep, deep notes of fudge, chocolate, and cocoa, below an nearly-as-dark-layer of tar and chipotle, sewed together with a decadent chord of umami notes. Loads of black fruits, firm tannins, and still-lively acidity, and showing secondary and tertiary characteristics redolent of balsamic and molasses …

1984 Monte Bello

A very pleasant mintiness on the nose, with lots of red fruits and a hint of menthol and eucalyptus. A near feral intensity to the fruit layers, dominated by an almost sweet cherry character. Intense, pungent, and powerful, with great structure and length …

1985 Monte Bello

Woodsy, and very complexly so, with hints of caramel, vanilla, and cream blending with a slight citricity to almost evoke a caramel apple, wooden stick and all … Tremendously bright and youthful acidity, very fresh and young, with a subdued yet complex bouquet followed by a creamy blue-fruit laden middle and an herb-and-spice laden finish …

1988 Monte Bello

Archetypal “old-world” aromatics showing a concentrated mosaic of black cherry, cola, cedar, leather, and earth, with a concentrated mid-palate blending wild mountain fruit and exotic spice; perfectly resolved and structured, with still-youthful acidity and tannin …

1989 Monte Bello

Lots of fascinating structural components on offer, including dried currant, olive, and tobacco on the nose, and cedar, clove, and anise at entry. Complex without being weighty, with multiple layers of mineral, spice, and sweeter fruits mid-palate, closing with a firm and structure-forward finish …

The final grouping was a two-wine group, and this was really the treat of the bunch, both for the rarity, and the caliber! We first tasted the 1978 Monte Bello, and then the 1968! Unbelievable …

 

1978 Monte Bello

Decadent hints of stew, blood, and iodine simmering in the aromatics, meaning meaty, but not in an umami way, more Wellington-esque … Wonderful second and third tier characteristics on display, including clove, sandalwood, tobacco, and cedar, modulating sweet and concentrated fruits into an earthy and complex body, finishing very lively and vigorous …

1968 Monte Bello

Just astonishing, a 42-year-old wine, and yet still showing so much power, complexity, and concentration. Lots of classic mountain minerality, dried fruits, and sweet sauce notes (plum and balsamic), with a structurally enticing duskiness foreshadowing a rustic mid-palate, and closing with a completed-circle reappearance of marrow-like notes couched in a wrap of sandalwood and cigar …

And that was it for the tasting. I don’t think I’ll ever forget it. And while I recognize that the purchase of an older-vintage Monte Bello is not an every day investment, I heartily encourage you all to find a way to sample some of the these older vintages, whether through purchases, or via one of the special tastings that we host in our tasting rooms., It’s an experience that will not leave you for a long, long time …

And thank you to the powers that be for letting me be a part of such an extraordinary tasting!


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