Archive for the ‘Winemaking’ Category

No Rest For The Weary, It’s Pruning Time!

February 2, 2012

We’ll be talking more about this in the upcoming days, but after a very brief break for all, our vineyards are humming again, and pruning is #1 on the agenda. 

Here at Monte Bello, it’s chardonnay …

Rosendo at work in the lower chardonnay ...

This is a tremendously important and vital part of our overall approach to the land, and decisions made during pruning days have ramifications that stretch well into the future, and impact just about every aspect of the wine-producing process, including quality and taste.

David Gates, talkin' prunin' ...

I have been fortunate to spend time pruning with our vineyard teams before, and there are few ways in which one can truly experience the life-force of a vine than to feel your way through the process of managing, maintaining, and encouraging the long-term patterns of its growth over the years.

Francisco in the middle chardonnay ...

They’re beautiful creatures, vines, and to hold them in your hands, to mold them, to train them, to release and invigorate them, is to truly know them.

 

(thanks to Monte Bello Viticulturist Kyle Theriot for the images!)

We Feel The Earth Move Under Our Feet: Lytton Springs & Winter Wineland!

January 9, 2012

Winter Wineland is undeniably one of the biggest events to hit Sonoma Wine Country in any given year, and this year it’s going to be even bigger. Why? Because it’s the 20th Anniversary!

The theme for this very significant 2012 celebration is Wine ~ Art ~ Education, and each participating winery will  be either hosting an artist, or offering a special educational component to their tasting experience.

Winter Wineland
Wine ~ Art ~ Education
January 14 – 15, 2012
11am – 4pm each day

Hmmm … Art, or Education?

Tough call for Ridge, but in the end, we’ve selected Education as our governing theme, and the team at Lytton Springs has come up with something really and truly extraordinary.

As you probably already know, single-vineyard winemaking is at the absolute core of our endeavor at Ridge Vineyards, and our belief in the importance of terroir, and the honest, authentic representation thereof, drives just about everything we do in both the vineyard and the winery. The importance of our foundational belief in accurately, transparently, faithfully carrying the vineyard to the bottle with as little interference as is possible cannot be  overestimated, and without this faith, this discipline, this credo, questions of sustainability, organics, etc, are essentially rendered hollow. Sustaining a property you don’t believe in is but an exercise in process, nothing more, nothing less. For Ridge, we don’t farm sustainably and/organically for any reason other than that it’s the absolute best and most effective way to both honor the land, and make the best wine possible. To make wines of place is to embrace natural methods and traditions; to embrace natural methods and traditions is to make wines of place.

The word itself can be controversial; terroir.

But taken literally, it’s essentially just a reference to the earth, and as such, we thought perhaps the most illuminating answer to the question of education at Winter Wineland would be to devise a presentation revolving around the earth itself; the soil: that pure miasma of nutrient, mineral, and history from which a vine springs forth to eventually present its offspring at the altar of vinification.

But lest ye fear a heavy-handed dogma-laden session in the classroom, fear not!

The endlessly imaginative team at Lytton Springs has instead devised a rather disarmingly playful way to enjoy both your wines AND your education. After tasting four single-vineyard wines produced from four of our most legendary and highly regarded vineyard sites, guests will have the opportunity to experience a soil exhibit featuring actual soil samples from each of the relevant four vineyards, with accompanying text describing the conditions, characteristics, and qualities of each property.

Once digested (wine AND knowledge!), guests will be given the opportunity to try and match the soils to the wines via the submission of a contest entry. Once the event is over, entries will be reviewed, and a winner will be drawn from the correct submissions. Hopefully needless to say, the prize will be … ahem … groovy.

To see our calendar entry for this amazing event, please click here, and to skip right on ahead and purchase tickets, please click here.

See you at Winter Wineland!

Becoming YOUR Bottle …

December 15, 2011

The bottling line. Does it conjure anything for you? Me neither. At least, it didn’t used to, before I worked on one. Then when I did, for the first time, bottle, I thought it was mesmerizing. At first. Then, I thought it was tiring. Long, tiring, even kind of boring. It was too physical to be meditative, too repetitive to be interesting. So again, no conjuring. The bottling line. No resonance.

Then I received this picture …

The picture came from Will Thomas, our viticulturist up at Lytton Springs. This is a shot of the bottling line at Lytton; they’re bottling the Ponzo Zinfandel. And for some reason, it really struck me. The bottling line.

It occurred to me that there is something that happens on the bottling line that is completely, utterly unique amidst all the processes involved in the making of wine.

It is on the bottling line that wine — a lot of wine; gallons upon gallons upon gallons of it — transforms from wine in the grand abstract, to the very specific reality of YOUR bottle of wine. On the bottling line is where that grand mass of liquid, housed in some enormous tank, or spread out across a multitude of anonymous barrels, becomes YOUR personal bottle of wine. YOUR bottle of wine is born on the bottling line.

Who can know now what might happen to that bottle, what might become of it, what unforgettable experience or ritual it might play a role in? It might be the wine on the table at the restaurant you dine in on the night you ask your lover to become your spouse. It might be the first wine you taste in the first hours after your first child is born. It might be the first wine you serve with the first holiday dinner you cook the first year after your grandmother passes away. It might be the wine you pour on your father’s grave as they return him to the earth from whence he came. It might be the wine you drink to celebrate the 50th anniversary of your wedding. It might be the wine you give your son the night he becomes a father. It might be the wine your share with a best friend you reconnect with after 20 years of not talking. It might be the wine you drink with a great loaf of bread, an excellent hunk of cheese, and a really good book, all by yourself, on some beach somewhere, on some anonymous Sunday, some year, in some country, that is in fact one of the most pleasant days of your life.

That wine may have just been born on the bottling line.

Paul Draper, Philosophy, and Yeast

December 2, 2011

If you’re at all familiar with Ridge Vineyards, you likely already know that our winemaker, Paul Draper, who came to Ridge in 1969, was a philosophy major.

And even if you didn’t know that, I’ll wager you’re at least aware of the full extent to which philosophy drives our approach to winemaking.

But what you may not have experienced, however, is Paul Draper speaking directly about the relationship between philosophy, and the practical realities of producing wine.

Here is an excerpt from an interview conducted back in 1994, in which Paul discusses Ridge’s adherence to relying on “natural yeast” for fermentation. It’s a truly fascinating read, and I hope you not only enjoy it, I hope it enhances your experience of drinking our wines.

While the interview from which this quote emerges was conducted nearly 20 years ago, the content not only remains true for Ridge Vineyards today, it is deeply contemporary in its focus and committment. In an era where words like “organic” and “sustainable” have become marketing buzzwords, an era where things like ”biodynamism” and “carbon footprints” are regularly debated at high-profile conferences and seminars, an era where the word “natural” has become so controversial it has been rendered seemingly unusable without igniting some sort of firestorm, I find it intensely heartening to read Paul’s words.

“You’ve got to remember I was a philosophy major.  Also I was interested in the reasons behind things, their symbolism. I think there’s no question but that one of the reasons I was attracted to wine was that it is and has been throughout western civilization such a powerful symbol. It has been a part of the ritual of the most important religions of the western world. It has been the central symbol for transformation, whether physical or spiritual for thousands of years.

Unlike any other non-distilled alcoholic beverage, wine is made from grapes; in the grape, fully mature, all the elements are present to naturally change it into wine.

That is not true of beer, where you must take the grain and extract the sugar, and in the dawn of civilization, masticate it so the yeasts in your mouth would be added, and it would ferment. That’s how they think the earliest beer was made, and today you cook the grain and add a cultured yeast. Man is essential to beer- making for fermentation to take place. Distilled spirits, of course, depend entirely on man and his process of distillation.

With wine, you have the cluster of grapes growing in the vineyard. In the grape itself the balance of sugar and acid is such that there is sufficient sugar to form alcohol to a level that will make a stable, sound beverage in which pathogens cannot grow. Also there is enough natural acid to give that beverage liveliness and interest.

On the outside is a dusty coating that, let’s say, Mother Nature put there for a purpose. You can polish that coating off and make the grape nice and shiny. That coating is called the bloom. As the winds blow through the vineyard, stirring up the natural yeasts from wherever it is that they reproduce in nature — on wood, on the soil, on decomposed fruit — those yeasts stick to the bloom on the grapes. If picked and put into a receptacle and broken or allowed to just deteriorate enough so that they break themselves, the yeast on those skins then attack the sugar in the juice. Without any assistance from man, wine is made. How good a wine? That’s where man comes in. He’s got to begin to take care of it. In the grape are all the elements needed to make wine. That’s the reason why it’s the symbol of transformation. You have this simple but delicious fruit that, through a natural process, becomes something as exotic, stimulating, and incredible as a glass of wine. That is so amazing that the transformation it symbolizes has stayed with us through the history of western civilization.

So natural yeast; that’s why we use it.  Can we as men and women really improve on nature in this case? Why not tie into the symbolism of something that separates wine from all other alcoholic beverages, that shows why wine is special, not just another intoxicant, not just another drug. Why would I stick with natural yeasts? It gives meaning to what I’m doing. I’m not in the driver’s seat; there is a natural process going on here that I can assist by choosing the vineyards, by watching over the wines, applying my experience and my team’s experience to how we handle the wines. But the wines in a sense make themselves. That’s far more interesting to me than simply producing another commodity.”

 

Paul Draper

HISTORY AND PHILOSOPHY OF WINEMAKING AT RIDGE VINEYARDS: 1970S -1990S

Interviews Conducted by Ruth Teiser, 1994

Wine Spectator California Winemen Oral History Series

The Bancroft Library Berkeley, California

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

A Very Special Black Friday Tasting Opportunity!

November 18, 2011

EXTRA! EXTRA! Historic Vineyard Series Wines Available To Taste On Black Friday!

It’s becoming quite the tradition for us to do a little something special on Black Friday, that semi-infamous post-Thanksgiving shopping frenzy that so regularly pocks the countenances of our collective social marketplaces.

Last year, we put on quite a delightful series of tastings (you can see a run-down on the 2010 Black Friday here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2010/11/22/turn-black-friday-red/), and I think for all concerned it was a very welcome alternative to being trampled underfoot by a maddened gate-crashing mob storming the doors of their local Wal-Mart at 4am, in search of one last remaining copy of “Halo” or one last “Let’s Rock Elmo.”

This year will be no different!

You will have two choices, this:

Or this:

The choice seems clear to me.

In all seriousness, while avoiding the lunacy of Black Friday is certainly incentive enough, we actually have a much better reason for you to visit. As part of the private tastings on offer on Black Friday, we’ll be showcasing … wait for it, wait for it … two of our new, never-before released, Historic Vineyard Series wines! Ah, the volta …

Have you heard about these very special wines? If you’re a Ridge Vineyards Wine Club Member, you certainly have. And if you’re not a member, well, this might just be a really good chance to experience just why membership is so decidedly the grooviest of badges to affix to the cub scout or brownie outfit of your aesthetic life. Meaning, these very rare wines are only available to members, but for just one day, and one day only, we’re going to make them available for tasting to all who secure a reservation! And, if you’re a member, you’ll be able to purchase as well. And if not yet a member? Well …

Anyhow, just to back track a bit and give you the rundown on these wines, the gist of the story is this;  courtesy of a long and educational engagement with our own unique history here on the Monte Bello Estate, we have been able to delve deeply into the pre-Ridge story, and part of what we’ve been able to do is not only identify the key families who first planted on our mountain, but also ascertain their stories, and the boundaries surrounding their original plantings. And with those families, lines, and properties properly identified, we’ve been able, in a sort of feat of viticultural gerrymandering, to conceptually redraw the lot lines on our property so as to make wines that hew to the original plantings, and bottle them under the names of the original families! It’s quite a unique addition to our primary bottlings from this property (the Monte Bello and Estate Cabernets), and we’re very excited about this extraordinary new series.

2009 is the very first vintage of our Historic Vineyard Series wines on offer, and this Black Friday will be the first “public” opportunity to taste two of them, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2009 Torre Ranch Merlot. This is truly a tasting opportunity not to be missed, as these wines couldn’t possibly be more rare, more significant, more cachet-laden, or more delicious! Did I mention these are also single-varietal wines! That’s right, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% Merlot. How’s that for rare and special?

Here is a bit of history of the two families:

Torre

In 1890, John Torre, a successful Nevada cattle rancher purchased one hundred acres on Monte Bello Ridge, planted vines, and built a barn atop a cellar dug into the hillside. In 1908, John’s nephew Vincent and wife, Dominica, left Nevada to run the vineyards and winery at Monte Bello, acquiring the property upon John’s death in 1913. The Torre winery produced mostly zinfandel, selling it for shipment by rail to New York.

Prohibition closed the Torre winery in 1920 and the vines died out over time. After several changes of ownership, William Short acquired the property and replanted to cabernet sauvignon and a small amount of chardonnay. By 1959, Short, weary of the work, sold the land to four scientists from Stanford Research Institute.

Initially, the partners intended to sell the grapes, but one of them, Dave Bennion, made a half-barrel of wine from the 1959 harvest—his first foray into winemaking. Its quality convinced the partners to re-bond the old winery, and to undertake the venture that would become Ridge Vineyards.

Dave, with his partners, went on to make seven commercial vintages (1962-1968). Paul Draper—impressed by the exceptional 1962 and 1964—joined the group as winemaker in 1969. Paul assisted with that vintage and made the 1970 and 1971 on his own, the last to be made in the old Torre Winery.

Today the oldest vines are those planted by William Short in 1949. The old Torre winery building now houses the Monte Bello tasting room and group facilities.

Klein

Pierre Klein (1855-1922) was an Alsatian who came to California in 1875. For years, as manager of the restaurant in San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel, he championed the best of California wines. In 1888 he purchased 160 acres on Monte Bello Ridge (currently known as the Jimsomare Ranch.)

Determined to produce a fine claret in the style of the Médoc, he planted Bordeaux varieties on their own roots. In the early 1890s, he began selling his Mira Valle wines to several San Francisco restaurants; in 1895, he entered his wine in the Bordeaux Exposition, where he took an honorable mention At the Paris Exposition of 1900, he won two gold medals—one for his Claret, the other for his “Grand Vin”—known as the “Château Lafitte of America,”

When phylloxera attacked his vines after the turn of the century, he did not replant. Retiring in 1910, he sold the property in 1913. In 1936, it was purchased by the Schwabacher family of San Francisco who renamed the property “Jimsomare” from their names Jim, Sophie, and Marie.

Although Klein’s Bordeaux varietals had died out, a small nineteenth-century zinfandel vineyard survived. Ridge bought those grapes, and made its first Jimsomare Zinfandel in 1968. Ridge convinced the family to replant the Bordeaux varietals, and a small amount of chardonnay. In exchange, Ridge provided rootstock, and a promise to purchase the grapes. The first cabernet bottling was in 1978.

By the late 1990s, the Schwabachers no longer wished to manage day-to-day farming, and signed a long-term lease with Ridge. Today, Ridge farms the original Klein property as part of its Monte Bello Estate.

And if all that isn’t enough to pique your curiosity, I’m now going to get going on some tasting notes, to hopefully & proverbially whet your viticultural whistle as regards these extremely rare and historic, limited-production, member-only, single-varietal offerings:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Torre Ranch Merlot

Tremendous post-decanting development on aromatic display; at first whiff, the nose is dominated by strong baker’s chocolate notes, with only minor hints of peppercorn and tarragon, but as the wine airs out, fascinatingly strong strains of fig and amber liqueur emerge. The bowl-view bespeaks a fair amount of girth to come; big, slow-moving legs languidly taking their time down the bowl-sides (raise up mama, get yer big leg offa mine!), and first taste does nothing to dispel this foreshadowing; the wine is mouth-filling to the nth, with strongly granular tannins on full display, and a good wallop of low-tone fruit spreading out all across the front-palate. Layered under this hearty spread of harvest berry and plum lays a layer of beurre noir and toasty caramel, and across the top, a slightly minty, cool-climate herbaceousness. The wine is still quite young, no doubt about it, and structure is still the dominate component, but again, with air, there is a good array of fruit notes beginning to show their colors as well. Mirroring the color, which is decidedly concentrated and rich, the fruit notes are dense as well; not at all extracted, mind you, but expressing their collective essences with a vengeance. This is a lot of wine in the glass, and a fascinating inversion of the Merlot-Cab relationship; here, the Merlot is structure, depth, tannin, and concentration, bringing muscularity and girth to the table, albeit in a broodingly romantic package. A most baroque wine, this is viticultural poetry of the most saturated kind … Purple prose-ish, if you’ll forgive the pun …

2009 Ridge Vineyards Klein Cabernet Sauvignon

Unbelievable aromatics; the quintessentiallity of cool-climate cab in action; minerality, spice, herbality, spice, percolation, spice, and spice! And a singular relationship between color and body; if anything, denser and more vibrant than the merlot, yet swifter of leg and less-viscous of body; rivulets a-runnin’ (brooks run into the ocean, ocean run into the sea!). Extremely elegant mouthfeel, with acidity on display for days upon days upon days; such vibrancy and bounce for a California solo-varietal cab! The fruit here is definitely high in tone, lots of both sweet and sour cherries, strong pluot notes, and a bit of young raspberry as well. The tannins here are of the extremely refined sort; soft, supple, resolved, and covered, and the mid-palate structure retains its bounce while spreading its fruit in a comparatively wider arc.  The finish is a deceptive one; at first swallow, the youth of the wine seems almost restrictive as regards retaining some flavor in the aftermath, but lo and behold, with 5 or 10 seconds of wait-time, a delicious lingering decadence starts to emerge, perhaps hinting at the richening to come. This is a wine with a lot of growing still to do, no question, but it’s expressive and buoyant now, and exciting beyond compare. It’s easy to see how the ying and yang of cab and merlot from this mountain work together, but there is something sweetly, intimately refreshing about seeing these varietals in their solo and separate fleshes; they have a home-ness to them that, for all their grace and power, the assemblages of Monte Bello and Estate don’t necessarily evidence; this is the farmgirl or boy that you fall in love with for their innocence, their purity, their honor and their integrity. They don’t flash, but they’re honest, and there is no more reassuring lap to rest your weary head in.

To secure a reservation for these very special tastings, at either our Lytton Springs or Monte Bello Estates, please follow the following links:

Lytton Springs

Monte Bello

As an alternative, you can also e-mail us at reservations@ridgewine.com.

And last but not least, here is a bit of video documenting a tasting session of these wines earlier today:

It’s Over!

November 10, 2011

It’s over!

As of yesterday, Wednesday, November 9th, Harvest 2011 ended for Ridge Vineyards. With the last grape in off Monte Bello, we can now close the book on one of the more unusual and challenging growing seasons in recent history. That said, at least certainly in our experience, unusual and challenging often translates to extraordinary, concentrated, and delicious. That very much looks to be the case for the 2011 vintage. Here is winemaker Eric Baugher, with some recent perspective on #Harvest2011, penned just prior to the final round of picking on Monte Bello:

The vintage is coming along nicely, just about finished and only have the few parcels at the upper vineyard remaining to harvest this week. We rushed to pick ahead of last Thursday’s storm, and fortunately pulled in a large amount of fruit ahead of the small amount of rainfall that hit. Wind and plenty of sunshine will dry the remaining grapes for harvest to finish this Wednesday. Typically, the harvest at Monte Bello takes five or more weeks from start to finish, but this year we will have completed it in less than two weeks. Sampling grapes early on, we saw less separation of ripeness between lower, middle, and upper vineyards and within the Bordeaux varietals. We knew that the moment the grapes achieved full ripeness, they’d all be ready to harvest at the same time. Our Monte Bello vineyard team was supplemented with additional crew from our Sonoma vineyards in order to pick double the amount of fruit each day. In the winery, the lots have been fermenting quite well, extracting very deep color and full bodies. Tannin extraction is, as usual, something we watch closely and taste carefully to decide when to press. So far, we are fermenting out to about eight days, and giving the tanks slightly more aerated pump-over time so that a rich tannin structure can develop. A vintage wrought with challenging weather, has actually yielded some amazing quality, especially once the warm weather returned mid-October and intensified flavors. The stress on the vines was unlike any other year, but they made it through and this stress has translated into wines with extraordinary color, flavor, and aging potential.

And with that, we say fare thee well Harvest 2011, it’s been a fascinating season!

To see a quick video of our seemingly ever-multiplying sorting tables in action as the final berries enter the winery, please click below …

video footage shot by Amy Monroe

#Harvest 2011: Waiting For The Sun

October 24, 2011

We’re all picked out up north. Sonoma is done. And we love what we’ve taken in. Flavors are amazing.

Monte Bello is another story. We need sun, and we need heat. The chardonnay is in, but the red varietals need some love from Miss Mother Nature.

It’s an interesting story. As Paul Draper noted in our Monday Morning Meeting today, we have a somewhat unusual circumstance on our hands; flavor has come in ahead of sugar and acid. Meaning, we have great flavor already, we just need the brix and the acid levels to come up.

It’s sunny today, and it’s warm and dry. That is love. Acid will rise. Sugar will rise.

I took some time this morning to go walk the rows on the mountain. I wanted the vines to know I believed in them, that I knew they were going to make it. They looked beautiful. The fruit looked beautiful. The sky was beautiful. The whole round world was beautiful.

Here are some pictures from my walk:

If you’d like to view a compendium of moving snippets from my walks today, please feel free to enjoy the following movie:

Pray for sun. Warm is the love.

Waiting for the sun.

Pagani Ranch arrives: The Alicante cometh …

October 20, 2011

I was fortunate enough to be on hand when the Alicante Bouschet arrived at the Monte Bello Winery from the Pagani Ranch.  In fact, I rode the fruit in!

Here’s me on the back of the grape truck (photo by Kim Korupp)…

Ahhh, kid in a candy store. That’s me when I’m at the winery …

Anyhow, and needless to say, the production team was ready to spring into action …

The pitchfork awaits ...

As does Paul Draper ...

 Alicante Bouschet is an amazing grape, and it was quite magical watching it come splashing onto the conveyor belt in all it’s crimson noir glory…

Paul Draper observes the fruit coming in off the gondola ...

 

... and Eric Baugher and Shun Ishikubo dig in and start tasting ...

Despite all the challenges of the vintage (rain, rain, rain, cold weather, rain, cold weather, fog, rain, cold weather, rain, rain, rain …), we’ve actually been quite happy with the character and quality of the grapes we’ve received, and think it will be a notable vintage for its elegance, its sophistication, and its concentration. Plus, we’ll be seeing low alcohol levels across the board, and a heightened focus on balance and harmony.

There is of course a fine line between elegance and austerity, but we feel strongly we’re on the right side of this line in 2011.

Harvest Begins On The Mountain!

October 17, 2011

It’s been one heck of a growing season. T’aint no doubt about it.

But I am happy to report that Monte Bello, the mountain itself, has officially joined the harvest season; in comes Chardonnay!

Viticulturist Kyle Theriot, mannin' the buckles ...

Jimsomare!

 We brought in one run of chardonnay before the rains came, and while the jury remains out as to its final quality, the fruit that came in on Saturday showed fantastic flavors, and after analysis, the brix levels are spot on. I tasted grapes as they came in on Saturday, and then tasted a pair of press fractions on Sunday, and it’s fine juice all the way around; needless to say, all are relieved!

Chard in the gondola ...

 There is something somewhat strange about seeing the grapes in gondola; they seem somewhat temporarily humbled. In the wild, on the vine, they were exactly that; wild. And soon, they’ll be wine; all the wilder still. But for this brief moment, the are cowed, contained, contrite, as if temporarily scolded for their wild ways. Soon, so soon, they’ll be launched into the wildness of their new lives, but for just this one moment, we, in the role of exhausted parents, get to enjoy them in their ever so temporarily suspended grace, on the cusp between their wild, unformed youths, and their eventual destinies.

Inch by inch, row by row -or- Block by block, brix by brix ...

Takin' notes; the official record ...

Cluster ...

 Such a simple gesture, to hold up a cluster of grapes, but in the hands of a winemaker, there is something both paternalistic and feral about it; something both exasperatedly punitive, and lovingly fatigued. Here, in winemaker Eric Baugher’s juice-stained hands, this living cluster could be a child by the arm, a cat by the tail, a poem by the high inverted volta …

Never forget though, it’s a working person’s game, and a hard-working person at that. It’s technology …

Machinery …

Sweat and blisters …

And a whole lot of hearts growing three more sizes every day …

I had the great pleasure of following the chardonnay as it arrived, and was subsequently delivered. And to borrow a quote from the video that follows, “we had somethin’ special” …


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