Archive for the ‘Wine Blogs’ Category

It’s The End Of The Year As We Know It, And I Feel WINE

December 30, 2011

Two truths:

1. The convention of the End-Of-Year list is most decidedly a media trope that is long overdue to be retired.

2. It is impossible to effectively summarize, in one go, an entire year.

So, that said, here are some End-Of-Year lists, and a summary of 2011!

First, the lists. Specifically, blog lists.

Top 5 blog posts on 4488: A Ridge Blog for 2011? (in terms of total viewerage)

1. Turn Black Friday Red

2. The Oak Wars

3. Zoot!

4. Robert Parker Scores Ridge

5. Julia Child and Paul Draper

Top 5 Search Engine Terms that led people to 4488: A Ridge Blog in 2011?

1. Nadia G

2. Fugazi

3. Barrel

4. Black Friday

5. Thelonious Monk

Top 3 commentors on 4488: A Ridge Blog in 2011? (Thank you!)

1. Tom Wise

2. Robert Seaney

3. Dave Tong

Top 3 Videos viewed on 4488: A Ridge Blog in 2011?

1. Harvest 2011: Picking Lytton West

2. Harvest 2011: Dusi Ranch

3. Harvest 2011: Jimsomare Chardonnay

Ok, enough lists. Onto our 2011 summary. We begin …

With January.

Seems so long ago. What on earth was happening in January of 2011? Well, it was a bit of the good and the bad. On the one hand, beloved actress Zsa Zsa Gabor had to have her leg amputated, and Roger Federer lost in the semis of the 2011 Australian Open, but on the other hand, I was auctioned by Nadia G!

How about February 2011? Well, another month of the good and the bad. One one hand, Tiger Woods was fined for spitting on a golf course. But conversely, The Ramones won a Lifetime Achievement Grammy. So, all’s well that ends well. And at Ridge? Well, February 2011 saw the Monte Bello Hospitality Team go pruning, and of course, it was ZAP! And that was all good.

Which brings us to March. The month in which I enjoyed the greatest tasting experience of my entire life. The Monte Bello Assemblage Tasting. Did I care that Hillary Clinton was in Egypt? That Space Shuttle Discovery was making its final landing? That Coptic Christians and Muslims were at each other’s throats in Cairo? That Phil Collins retired? That the Superintendent of the Chicago Police Force was stepping down? Nah, didn’t even notice. I was making Monte Bello!

Which means I almost didn’t even wake up for April. But good thing I did! Otherwise, I would have missed Penelope Cruz getting her star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame! And I wouldn’t have known that Dennis Rodman was getting inducted into the Basketball Hall of Fame! And heaven forfend if I wasn’t present and accounted for when they announced the guestlist for the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton! And on top of all that, I wouldn’t have been there to celebrate the anniversary of The Judgement of Paris!!!

Things finally calmed down a bit in May. Not much going on. Osama Bin Laden was killed, and we hosted the Final Assemblage Tasting for the 2010 Monte Bello. But that was about it.

June was a whole different animal. Very emotional. There was some loss. I’m not gonna lie about it. We lost Peter Falk AND Clarence Clemons. That was hard to take.  But there were new beginnings as well. We saw bloom on the mountain. That was beautiful. Samsara. The circle.

By July, we’d gotten our heads on straight again, and we were ready to rock. Everybody was ready. To rock, and to swing. The Arab Spring was rocking. The Queensland Reds of Australia were rocking (they defeated the Canterbury Crusaders of New Zealand 18-13 to win the Super Rugby championship). Jane Austen was rocking (A rare manuscript of an unfinished novel sold for 1.6 million dollars at auction!). Even Jürgen Klinsmann was rocking. He was named head coach of the United States men’s national soccer team. And Ridge Vineyards was rocking too.  We rocked probably the hardest at Zinbo #1. That was some serious rocking. Zinfandel and BBQ. Yeah, that’s the rock. Let it rock, let it rock, let it rock. I want to rock. Rock and roll hootchie koo. I love rock n’ roll. For those about to rock. Rock you like a hurricane.

August is a funny month. You never can tell with August. Sometimes it’s groovy, sometimes it’s funky. It can have the funk, but it can also get in the groove. The 2011 rendition of August was mostly kind of funky. I mean, after all, dig this synchronicity. In the same month, Tim Pawlenty announced the end of his campaign for the Republican Party presidential nomination, and Jhala Nath Khanal resigned as the Prime Minister of Nepal! Crazy! And that’s not all! It only gets weirder! Dig this: Nick Ashford of Ashford & Simpson dies in the same month that Jerry Leiber of Leiber & Stoller dies! Crazy!!!!! And if that weren’t enough, both Lady Gaga and Katy Perry got banned by The Ministry of Culture of the People’s Republic of China. Crazy!!!!!!!!!! Fortunately, things were pretty stable at Ridge Vineyards. In order to combat all that CRAZINESS out there, we relied on the consistency of a series; in this case, our Ten Questions with Paul Draper series. Something about checking in with Paul on a regular basis, all month long, felt soothing. He comforted us. He got us through.

By September, we were back in control. We knew what was going on, we were in the saddle. Sonya Thomas won the United States Chicken Wing Eating Championship without batting an eyelid. That New Zealand Emperor Penguin was back in the ocean. And Google+ hit the ground running. And as to us? Solid. We started the month with Fall Release Tastings at Monte Bello and Lytton Springs, and just kept on rocking in the free world after that. Rocking in the free world.

October was pretty crazy. There’s just no gettin’ around it. Things were nuts. The NBA went on lockout. Steve Jobs passed. Sarah Palin declined to throw her hat in the presidential ring. A swede won the Nobel Prize for Literature. Paul McCartney got married again. Wootton Bassett became Royal Wootton Bassett. And the St. Louis Cardinals won the World Series. S#*t was crazy. Here too. Harvest began on the mountain. Which was crazy.

November is recent enough that I feel I still remember it. I remember China launching the unmanned Shenzhou 8 spacecraft. I remember the 5.6 magnitude earthquake NNE of Shawnee, Oklahoma. I remember the resignation of Silvio Belusconi. And the sentencing of Dr. Conrad Murray. And most of all, I remember what I was thankful for.

Which brings us to December. The end of the year as we know it. And I feel wine.

And I hope that you do too!

On behalf of all of us at Ridge Vineyards, we thank you for an extraordinary 2011.

May you all have a safe, happy, and healthy 2012!

Cheers!

I mean, CHEERS!

For Those About To Type, Part II

December 29, 2011

For those of you who may have read about (or attended!) our recent Wine Bloggers Tasting, you’ll know that part of the experience involved our guest Wine Bloggers having a go at crafting tasting notes on one or more of four different vintage manual typewriters.

(You can read about the tasting, and see pictures of the typewriters and those who used them, here)

While their efforts were certainly valiant in this regard, it might also possibly be slightly safe to say that (borrowing a phrase from JeffIsRad at the Stay Rad Wine Blog) there was perhaps in evidence the occasional lack of “pinky strength” …

You be the judge!

(click on any image below, and you’ll be taken to an attachments page, where you can then scroll left or right to see all the images)

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Wine Bloggers Tasting, Final Edition, 2011!

November 27, 2011

Ladies & Gentleman, the final 2011 Wine Bloggers Tasting is coming, and if you write a wine blog, or a tangentially related blog (food, culture, etc.), and can potentially be in Northern California on December 11th, then  you are potentially invited. I say “potentially,” because this edition’s theme (there is ALWAYS a theme) will, of necessity, restrict our head count somewhat. Need a clue? See below …

Anyhow, just in case you’re not familiar, we are into our second year now of hosting our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and it’s been a lovely, lovely success to date. We host it quarterly, and each time, we invite an inside circle of elite wine bloggers (each session features a few returning vets, and the guarantee of a few new faces as well) to enjoy a special selection of wines selected around a particular theme. Past Wine Bloggers Tasting themes have included:

–Tasting The Exact Same Wines That Robert Parker Just Reviewed

–The Acrostic Anagram Sessions

–Limited-Production, Winery-Only

–Lytton Springs Vertical

–Monte Bello Library List Offerings

and more …

To see a rundown on previous posts related to this singular tasting series, please click here.

And now, on to the official announcement:

Wine Bloggers Tasting #4, 2011
Sunday, December 11, 1pm
Ridge Vineyard/Monte Bello
Attendance By Invitation Only

As to the theme? See below …

Still no idea? No worries, it’s a particularly good one!

So, want to attend? Let me know! You can comment on this post, or respond via either Facebook or Twitter. And one thing to note, if you’ve not yet attended one of these tastings, please make sure to include a link to your blog.

Looking forward to hearing from you soon!

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

Scenes From A Wine Blogger Tasting

September 30, 2011

9.25.11 was the date, 1pm was the time, Lytton Springs was the place. Wine Bloggers Tasting, Edition III, 2011.

And before I proceed any further, a big Cheers! to Marcy Gordon, whose blog “Come For The Wine” wins the prize for swiftest post-tasting post. You can read it here.

Now, to return to the task at hand. In attendance (you can click each name to visit each writer’s site):

Alison Smith

Amy Cleary

Chiara Shannon

Dave Tong

Deb Kravitz

Fred Swan

Joe Manekin

Marcy Gordon

Martin Redmond

Richard Jennings

Thea Dwelle

And the theme? (There is always a theme!) Small-production, winery-only library wines from the Lytton Springs Estate Vineyards. I’ll let you visit our blogger’s sites to discover the list of offerings, but suffice it to say it was an exquisitely delicious array of wines!

As has been the case on numerous past occasions, my offerings proved not to be the only wines tasted; this time around, the very excellent Richard Jennings brought a surprise treat for everyone to taste …

Not familiar? Not many people are. The vineyard doesn’t actually exist any longer, and even when it did, it didn’t cast much of a shadow; it wasn’t even an acre’s worth of vines (it was located quite near downtown Sonoma), and this was in fact the last vintage that Ridge produced from this property. To see a review of this wine from back in 1992, you can click here, and as to a current review: it was fantastic! I’m not kidding you, this wine was truly, truly, truly, truly delicious; thanks RJ!

And here’s a bit of video from the tasting:

I wish to offer full and sincere gratitude to our guests. This tasting series has been a fantastic success, and so very much of that is due to the caliber of our bloggers; they’re a fascinating and deeply knowledgeable lot, and I encourage you to read them as often as you can.

I also wish to thank everyone at Lytton Springs for all the help and support. Sandy, Jason, Eliot, and Brandye, I simply couldn’t have done this without you, thank you so much! And thank you to Keren and Joany for so commandingly holding down the fort even as I was poaching your co-workers! And special thanks to John Olney (VP of Winemaking, Lytton Springs) and Muiris Griffin (Assistant Winemaker, Lytton Springs) for being so gracious with your time, and allowing our bloggers to share in, and experience firsthand, the excitement of harvest.

If you’re interested in being a guest at an upcoming tasting, please let us know either by commenting on this post, sending a tweet (#RidgeVineyards, @RidgeVineyards) or posting on our Facebook page (facebook.com/RidgeVineyards).

Cheers!

Wine Blogger Tasting: Edition III, 1pm, Tomorrow!

September 24, 2011

I’m at Lytton Springs already. I’ve been here all day. I’ve decanted, I’ve tasted, I’ve de-foiled, I’ve spit, I’ve written notes, I’ve argued about notes, I’ve taken breaks to run out and watch new fruit come in to the winery, I’ve tasted again, I’ve written notes again, I’ve re-decanted, I’ve tasted out of alternate glasses …. in short, I’ve been workin’! I mean, I been workin’! I mean, this is work! Which means … that it’s really lovely work …

But anyhow, more to the point, the 3rd edition of the 2011 Wine Blogger Tasting series is tomorrow, 9.25.11, at our Lytton Springs estate.

Are you coming?

Cool.

Do you know what we’re going to be tasting? I do! Do you? Well, I do … Ok, I’ll give you a hint; we’ll be pouring, amongst other such niceties, a 1997 Syrah … nice.

If you’re confirmed as an attendee, then I will look very forward to seeing you tomorrow. And if you’re participating virtual-style, then get your #RidgeVineyards twittericity ready, and we’ll see you at 1pm PST!

Mainly, dig. Wine Blogger Tasting. Lytton Springs Style. Dig.

The Last Chance Monte Bello …

August 30, 2011

It’s her last chance
Her timing’s all wrong
Her last chance
She can’t idle this long
Her last chance
Turn her over and go
Pullin’ out of the last chance texaco
The last chance
–from “The Last Chance Texaco” by Rickie Lee Jones

Don’t YOU idle too long, and don’t let YOUR timing be wrong!

There is a three-vintage vertical of Monte Bello waiting for you just around the next turn, and this is your last chance to pull out and find it!

And this is not just any three-vintage vertical, mind you. This is a three-DECADE, three-vintage vertical!

 This is the 1985 Monte Bello (“…great intensity to its mineral and currant flavors … will age gracefully for years … Wine Spectator, 2001), the 1995 Monte Bello (Top 100 Wines of the Year, Wine & Spirits Magazine), and the 2001 Monte Bello (99 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate)!

And this majestic trio will be prefaced by another three-vintage vertical, the 2004, 2005, and 2006 vintages of our Estate Cabernet!

Have we lost our minds???

No! It’s just #Cabernet Day!

You can read an in-depth blog post about Cabernet Day here, or you can just cut to the quick and get your tickets here.

If you love Cabernet, this is an unprecedented opportunity to celebrate both in virtual solidarity with like-minded believers around the globe, and right here at home, at either of our estates: Lytton Springs or Monte Bello. Both don’t delay, Cabernet Day is this Thursday, and there are only a few tickets left.

Turn her over and go, it’s the last chance Monte Bello!

Calling All Wine (& Food!) Bloggers, Do You Want To Come Taste Ridge With Me?

August 19, 2011

Greetings all,

This is an open invitation to all who write wine blogs, and/or food blogs (or any other blog, really, providing you can essay me into believing that your presence makes sense! For example, if you happen to write a blog about Be-Bop, and are prone to deploying a veritable bevy of wine metaphors in your jazz posts, you’re in!) …

I wish to invite you to a very special edition of our Wine Blogger Tasting series. This is our second-year for this unique tasting experience, and as with the debut season last year, we’ll be hosting the third of four tastings up at our Lytton Springs facility. As with all of these events, there will be a specific theme associated with the tasting, and again in keeping with last year’s happening, the Lytton Springs edition will be uniquely Lytton-centric.

The tasting will be held on Sunday, September 25, 1pm-3pm, at our Lytton Springs Estate, in Healdsburg.

The guest list is traditionally pretty tight for these tastings, and I always try to make sure there is a good balance between “regulars” and “newbies” at the table, so if you’ve never attended but want to, please let me know at your earliest convenience, and if you’ve attended before and would like to do so again, please do the same, as no seat is guaranteed!

To give a bit of background for those who may not have been aware of this tasting series, and to give you a feel for the sorts of things we do, here is a quick run-down on the history of this event:

March, 2010 — First Edition. The theme? We tasted every wine that Robert Parker had just reviewed for the Wine Advocate, including a 7-vintage vertical of Monte Bello. For a nice wrap-up of the tasting, please click the following to read The Iron Chevsky Wine Blog: http://www.chevsky.com/2010/03/ridge-tasting-iron-chevsky-vs-parker.html

July 2010 — #2. The theme? Strictly Rhone varietal releases from Ridge: Carignane, Petite Sirah, Grenache, etc. Current and library releases both. For a full wrap-up, plus tasting notes, please click here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2010/07/12/wine-bloggers-tasting-edition-ii-the-notes/

September 2010 — #3, The Lytton Edition. The theme? A 10-vintage vertical of Lytton Springs (plus a trio of 375ml Monte Bello from the library!). For a great post on this tasting, please check out RJOnWine.com; the post in question can be found here: http://www.rjonwine.com/cabernet-sauvignon/ridge-lytton-springs/

December 2010 — The Final 2010 Edition. Theme? The Acrostic Anagram Sessions! To see what on earth this means, please click here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2010/12/29/wine-bloggers-tasting-the-acrostic-anagram-sessions/

March 2011The first edition of the new year! The theme? A VerticalModelMembershipManifesto! What does this mean? It means I poured verticals of both library and current releases from each of our three membership portfolios. For an insightful (and visually beautiful!) summary of the tasting, please visit Kitchen Confidante here: http://kitchenconfidante.com/ridge-wine-bloggers-tasting-spring-2011. You can also see my wrap up on our blog here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/03/31/the-first-wine-bloggers-tasting-of-2011-the-wrap-up/

June 2011 #2. The theme? Our new library menu; meaning, we poured every vintage of Monte Bello that’s been confirmed as available on our new Library Menu (That’s an 11-vintage Monte Bello vertical!). For my wrap-up, please click here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/06/21/wine-bloggers-tasting-2-6-17-11-the-aftermath/, and for an excellent wrap-up from NorCalWine, please click here: http://norcalwine.com/index.php/blog/10-wine-review/504-blind-tasting-11-vintages-of-ridge-monte-bello

And that, in a nutshell, is our Wine Bloggers Tasting. Would you like to attend? Then please let me know asap! You can do so by leaving a comment in response to this post,

or via our Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/RidgeVineyards

or on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/ridgevineyards

I look forward to hearing from you, and hopefully, to hosting you!

One additional item to note; if you’re not able to attend in person, we do always have a social media component to the tastings, so if  you wish to participate virtually, just use #RidgeVineyards for Twitter, or post on our Facebook page, and then you can play along from home! Also, with each edition, we usually choose an absentee “guest blogger” to send some samples to, so do please let me know if that’s something you might be interested in!

What IS High Alcohol In Wine?

August 8, 2011

If you’re a part of the wine industry, or if you follow it, it’s hard to get away from the debate; the alcohol level debate. Everywhere you turn, it’s a dominating topic of conversation.

A recent example is a column (Decanter Magazine, September 2011) by the famed English wine writer Oz Clarke, which was summed up by Decanter’s own Adam Lechmere as follows:

There is no style revolution in California: low acid, velvet tannins and high alcohol is what Americans want from their wine and Californian winemakers will continue to feed that need.

There was, predictably, a whole host of responses to the article (and to Mr. Lechmere’s summary!), including a notable offering from Steve Heimoff (Wine Enthusiast), who wrote the following:

I’ve been saying it for years: this supposed “trend” toward lower alcohol wine is largely a fiction invented and perpetuated by writers who (a) wish it were true and (b) need something sexy to write about in their columns and on their blogs.

All of which got me thinking of an admittedly tangential, but certainly related question: what IS high alcohol?

Is it the 14% cut-off, with “high” being above and “low” being below? This certainly seems to be the most commonly deployed barometer, but is it appropriate?

Honestly, I don’t think so, because I think “high” and “low” are relative terms, and what is high for one varietal, for example, may not be so high for another varietal. To simply say that if it’s over 14% ABV it’s a high-alcohol wine is, to my mind, a fairly meaningless assessment, and one doomed to inaccuracy, because it’s devoid of context.

As far as I’m concerned, the question should be, is the wine balanced? If you’re noticing too much of the alcohol, and not enough of the other components, then it’s a high-alcohol wine. This can happen at 13.2%, and it can happen at 15.2%. Conversely, if the wines wears its alcohol well, and is integrated and harmonious, then the wine is accordingly a balanced wine, and not high-alcohol at all. This can happen at 13.2%, and it can happen at 15.2%.

Consider the Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, long hailed as one of the most consistently balanced, elegant zinfandels California has ever produced. (“Year after year, Ridge makes some of the most polished, refined, and beautifully balanced zinfandels in California.”  – Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible)

I took a look at the past thirty years or so of Geyserville, and came up with some interesting tidbits. For example:

1996 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, 14.9% ABV

“A powerful wine that manages to wear its alcohol gracefully” – excerpted from a Stephen Tanzer review

And from Wine & Spirits Magazine: “This is the Ridge zinfandel of the vintage and certainly one of the very best overall. Well-farmed old-vine fruit, combined with Paul Draper’s informed winemaking, provide a supple and elegant zin. Because the fruit isn’t as dense as in some vintages, the wine has a lightness and grace to it that is ideal with food. It’s dark red in color with vivid aromas of oak spice, pepper, venison, bacon, plum and wild berries, the palate supple with firm acidity. Not overly complex, just beautifully balanced and complete.”

And from Wine Spectator: “… Supple and harmonious …”

Graceful? Supple? Lightness and Grace? Harmonious? At 14.9% ABV? Go figure …

Now, take the 1998 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville. It clocked in at 14.1% ABV. And yet here is Robert Parker, the purported Godfather of Support for the “ripe” style:

“One of Ridge’s classic efforts, the 1998 Geyserville (74% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignan, and 1% Mataro) possesses Bordeaux-like complexity and elegance…This classy, elegant, restrained, yet authoritatively rich Zinfandel should be consumed over the next 5-6 years.”

Hmmm …

Now, let’s jump all the way back to 1982! What did the critics say then? Well, Wine Enthusiast called the nose “overripe.” It was 12.6% ABV! But, lest you go thinking, “Aha! See! That’s the way it used to be done, lower alcohol!”, jump back even further to 1978, and you’ll find the Geyserville coming in at 14.9% ABV, and being described by the very same Wine Enthusiast reviewer as: “Deep, complex … almost Burgundian style.”

The point being that, while the alcohol levels vary notably (something the reviewer notes, insomuch as he calls the 82 “low alcohol” and the 78 “high alcohol”), the quality remains consistent, and balance is paramount.

In its many-decade history, the Geyserville has been as low as the low 13s, and as high as the high 14s, and it has accrued praise and appreciation throughout, and given great joy and pleasure to those who have tasted it.

So is Geyserville a “high-alcohol” wine?

Don’t bother answering, says me, because it’s the wrong question.

And on another note, Steve Heimoff made an interesting comment to his own blog post (in response to an earlier comment in the feed); when he wrote:

All I’m saying is that, from my vantage point of tasting nearly 5,000 California wines a year, I don’t see them moving away from high alcohol, especially the Cabernets.

Which of course got me thinking of the Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello.

So I did the same sort of thing as I did with the Geyserville; I went looking back through the long history of Monte Bello, to see what I could discover about alcohol levels. Dig this:

The 1970 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello was 13.5% ABV.  The 1962 (the first Monte Bello ever produced) was 12.4% ABV. The median there is about 13% ABV. The 2007 Monte Bello (current vintage) is 13.1%ABV.

Interesting.

Now, are we the exception to the rule? Perhaps. Perhaps not. But I’m pretty sure it’s not the Monte Bello that Steve (or Oz) are talking about. And I’m certainly not presenting the above as any sort of challenge to their points.

Rather, it’s just another way of approaching my primary thesis, which is that,  at the end of the day, I truly believe we should be debating balance first and foremost, not alcohol levels. ABV is certainly a legitimate sub-category in any debate about any given wine (as are fruit, minerality, structure, spice, acidity, etc.), but it’s just that, a sub-category, and nothing more or less.

Now, I should disclaim all the above by saying I recognize that Oz Clarke and Steve Heimoff are talking about something a little different; what they’re essentially talking about is the continuing dominance of a style despite a sea of rhetoric seemingly indicating a sea change in another direction; their point seems to be that it is everything from wishful thinking to out and out hypocrisy to believe that the style in question is in fact changing.

This is not what I’m on about. They may in fact be right. But my concern is the focus of the debate itself, which I believe may need some re-framing; getting away from primarily obsessing over alcohol levels, and the question of high vs. low alcohol wines, and focusing instead on the question of balance.

And on yet another note, I think we also need to be careful about getting too cynical about our wine buyers out there.

As wine producers, I think we can actually happily show great respect for, and faith in, our consumers and their palates. They may not all understand secondary malolactic fermentaion, or know what the word “veraison” means, or be able to discuss the difference between pad and membrane filtration methods, or define “brix levels,” but they can tell balanced from unbalanced, on a visceral if not always analytical level. And that’s a great thing. And sure, they might buy the “fruit bombs” sometimes, but they buy lots of other styles too, and that’s also a great thing. Their ability to discern and to experiment, to learn and to change, to vary and to sample; this is what keeps us all in business. And believe you me, they can spot a good wine, and they can spot a not-so-good wine, and the difference is balance. Balance is what give a wine its magic; that unnameable certain something that makes one wine an “excitement wine,” and another one not. And I truly believe that, in the end, that’s what wine consumers are responding to.

Balance. It’s what makes a wine sing.

I see it every day in our tasting rooms. I see it in their faces, that slight and subtle, inward-looking smile that twinkingly emerges when a magic wine hits their palate. They may not always know the what, where, how, and why of why the wine tastes the way it does, but they can sense it when it’s good.

And I say it’s good, when it’s balanced.


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