Archive for the ‘Rhone varietals’ Category

The Very First ATP Wine I Ever Gave My Dad (Is Coming To First Friday!)

April 1, 2013

There are four people from whom I learned what it means to be a man in this world.

What it means to be a man, and how to be a man.

One of them is imaginary: Rick, from the movie Casablanca.

Rick

(Historical note: I got married in white coat and black bow tie!)

The second is my missus. Bless her her patience and her love.

The third was my Grandpa. A scholar, an author, a musician, and a sculptor (Kirk Douglas holds one of the largest private collections of my Grandpa’s work!). I learned so much from him. Perhaps most importantly, he taught me about Lightnin’ Hopkins.

Lightnin

And then there is my Dad.

The greatest, kindest, smartest man I’ve ever known. His love for my Mom and I taught me just about everything there is to know about being a husband and a father, and when I finally got old enough to be able to understand the books he wrote, he became my teacher for just about everything else I hadn’t already learned from him.

Dad

And, he is a lover of wine.

~

As a student, you want to impress your teacher. As a husband, you want to impress your spouse. As a son, you want to impress your father.

So when I began at Ridge, it was deeply symbolic for me to begin offering my Dad wine.

Which brings me to the subject of this story. The very first ATP wine I ever gave my Dad.

The 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel.

04zbg1_labelcloseup

Surprised?

At face value, maybe an odd choice. It’s not one of our most famous wines. It’s not the Monte Bello.

But it’s a special wine. It’s a small-production, winery-only wine. And it’s an old-vine vineyard, family-owned and farmed. And its origins go back to Italy (my family and I lived in Italy for quite some time when I was young). And it’s funky. And my Dad likes funky.

So that’s the wine I gave him. And he loved it. And I was happy.

That was years ago. We’ve had many, many, many Ridge wines since then. We’ve had Monte Bellos from the years we lived in Italy, to the year his grand-daughter was born. We’ve had old zins and young zins, Rhones and Bordeauxs. My Dad has even conceded his affection for our Chardonnays, though he remains a red man at heart. And, he’s seen his pronounced disdain for the movie Sideways (after seeing the movie, he swore he’d never drink Pinot Noir again, and commenced buying Merlot by the barrel-ful instead) rewarded by Ridge’s return to Merlot.

But the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel remains a special wine for us.

Which made it all the more special that we were able to enjoy another bottle of it this past Thanksgiving. You can read a summary of our reaction here, but suffice it to say it was truly wonderful. Delicious, even.

Which means I am ESPECIALLY excited for April First Friday, because we’re going to be sharing this very special wine with our guests.

I should confess though, that the experience is likely to be bittersweet for me. There is almost none of this wine left, and we are pulling the last 5 cases from Reserve just for this event.

Which means, if the wine shows anything like it did last Thanksgiving, there isn’t likely to be much left after Friday.

But I’ll always have the memories.

As will you, if you can join us.

You might even want to invite your Dad.

~

The occasion for selecting the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel is in fact the release of another Buchignani Ranch offering, the new 2009 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel. We will of course be showcasing this wine as well. And on top of that, we’ll also be pouring for our guests our newly-released trio of Estate wines: the 2011 Estate Chardonnay, the 2010 Estate Merlot, and the 2010 Estate Cabernet.

As my Grandpa used to say, not so very bad …

__

First Friday at Monte Bello
April 5th ~ 4-7pm

Please join us on the first Friday of each month for an evening affair of delicious wines and small bites. While this is a Member Event, we are more than happy to host guests of our members as well!

Members with shipments available for pick up at this event: ATP-Monthly
(be sure to note that you are picking up on your RSVP)

Eventbrite - First Friday at Monte Bello - April 2013

Ten Thousand Reasons Why You Should Attend The Rhone Rangers Winemakers Dinner

March 19, 2013

Reason #1: David Gates.

David Gates is our VP of Vineyard Operations. Colloquially, our Vineyard Manager.

David Gates, Ridge Vineyards VP of Vineyard Operations

David Gates, Ridge Vineyards VP of Vineyard Operations

I have had the pleasure of hosting David Gates for probably ten thousand tastings, and I can easily say, without exaggeration, that I have enjoyed every one. And I have learned from every one. Never has more impactful education been offered in more congenial fashion. When tasting with  David Gates, you don’t even realize how much vino-edu-osmosis is occurring; you’re just having fun. Then you’ll be walking down the street some few days later, and suddenly, you’ll realize you understand Deficit Irrigation.

Bam! Deficit Irrigation. Thank you David Gates.

David will be representing Ridge Vineyards and The Rhone Rangers on Friday, March 22nd, at the annual Rhone Rangers Winemakers Dinner. For this reason alone, I heartily recommend you strive to attend.

Don’t need the other 9,999 reasons? Great, tickets here.

RhoneRangers

Still feeling a woo deficit? Meaning, still need wooing? Enter the food …

Reason #2: The Girl and the Fig

If David is not enough, if your appetite for experientially infusive oenophillic passionista sustenanary sustenance simply cannot find satisfactory resolution for its predatorily ravenous aesthetic sensation maw, then consider the gustatory beneficence on offer at this tremendous event. Do you know The Girl & The Fig? To dine at their table is to know that transcendence is possible. The menu:

~

-Salad of roasted local mushrooms, mixed chicories, bacon lardons, torn croutons and roasted garlic-shallot vinaigrette
-Pan fried ricotta gnocchi with black truffle
-Butternut squash and pepita pesto
-Duck confit with farro, braised cabbage & dried pears, watercress & cardamom jus
-Chocolate Napoleon with graham cracker crust, bittersweet chocolate torte and toasted almond marshmallow dessert.
-Vegetarian entree option is: black pepper fontina arancini with wild mushrooms, confit spring onions and spring pea-green garlic puree

~

Satisfactory?

Non?

Entre Les Personnes et Le Vins …

Reason #3: The Peoples & The Wines

There will be no less than sixteen wineries represented, and each will be showcasing providentially curated offerings that wholeheartedly enact a fair saintly degree of culinary companionability.

Participating wineries include: Anaba Wines, Baiocchi Wines & Vineyards, Bonny Doon Vineyard, Davis Family Vineyards, Folin Cellars, JC Cellars, Kenneth Volk Vineyards, kukkula, Margerum Wine Company, Mounts Family Winery, Petrichor Vineyards, Ridge Vineyards, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Terre Rouge, Two Shepherds and Villa Creek Cellars.

David himself will be pouring a rather fantastic selection of hard-to-find Ridge deliciousnesses; pray tell do dig this roster:

2005 Ridge Vineyards Lytton West Syrah

2006 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Grenache

2007 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache

2008 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane

***And, a double-secret-probation-rarity-from-the-innermost-vaults Mystery Surprise Wine!***

And all THAT event excitement doesn’t even factor in the auction.

Reason #4: Oh, the auction …

There are a number of amazing, amazing, amazing things that will come available during this very unique auction opportunity. Dinners, tours, priceless library releases, educational opportunities, travel, and more.

(for specific details about specific auction items, please click here)

And speaking of travel, oh, the travel opportunities …

Reason #5: Travel

Travel.

Travel.

Travel.

Travel to Australia.

Travel to famed wine locations in Australia.

Travel to famed wine locations in Australia with David Gates.

Travel to famed wine locations in Australia with David Gates; specifically to locations specifically selected by David Gates.

(Note: by locations specifically selected by David Gates, I mean locations that David himself particularly wants to visit, and in fact, not just visit, but RE-visit. Meaning, these are places and people that David has visited before, and wants to visit again!)

And THAT, is a serious endorsement. And THAT, is going to mean serious and unprecedented joy.

(For “official” details about the Australia trip, please click here.)

I spoke with David recently about the itinerary; how he chose it, and why. We spoke mostly about three producers he’s especially excited to return to:

Henschke.

About the visit to Henschke, just three words to know:

Hill of Grace.

And then there’s Rockford Wines, in the Barossa. I can’t quote directly David’s uniquely affectionate description of their winemaker (due to its “salty” colloquiality!), nor can I quote exactly how David described their Methode Champenoise Shiraz (something about what it will do to your socks!), but suffice it to say, David is looking VERY forward to taking both himself and his guests to this renowned location!

Lastly, D’Arenberg. Where this man rules the winemaking roost:

ChesterOsbornChesterOsborn_III ChesterOsborn_II

Obviously, this man is a great deal of fun. But don’t let the seeming tomfoolery fool you. When David went to visit him back in 1999, he learned from him a technique for handling and managing Syrah in the vineyard that forever altered David’s approach to this uniquely intriguing varietal; if you taste integrated and supple tannins balanced against restrained alcohol, balanced structure, and perfect ripeness in our Syrahs, you have to thank, in no small part, David’s visit to Chester Osborn.

Ready to bid?

~

Reasons #6-to-#10,000: [enter 9,995 synonyms for The Past Is Gone, The Future Is Yet To Happen, Now Is The Only Moment here]

Wine Zen. Meditate on it.

~

Social Media’d Up? Some good n’ plenty things for you to know:

#WineChat -
Wednesday Night Rhone #WineChat with Rhone Rangers Sonoma William & guest Randall Grahm

Rhone Rangers on Facebook -
http://www.facebook.com/RhoneRangers

Event-specific hashtag -
#RRSF

Rhone Rangers Twitter handle -
@RhoneRangers

Ridge Vineyards on Twitter -
@RidgeVineyards

Ridge Vineyards on Facebook: -
http://www.facebook.com/RidgeVineyards

~

See you in San Francisco!

Be The Winning Bid & Bob’s Yer Uncle! -or- David Gates In Oz! -or- This Trip Is Fair Dinkum! -or- Australia Tastes Ace! -or- Rhone Rangers, From San Francisco to Sydney!

March 1, 2013

David Gates is a great man.

David Gates, Ridge Vineyards VP of Vineyard Operations

David Gates, Ridge Vineyards VP of Vineyard Operations

David Gates is our Vineyard Manager, and he is a great man. A great man managing great vineyards.

DavidGates

David Gates is President on the Board of Directors for Rhone Rangers.

RR

Rhone Rangers is a great organization.

Rhone-varietal wines are great.

06gle1

The 16th Annual Rhone Rangers Weekend Celebration of American Rhones in San Francisco is a great event, with great Rhone-varietal wines on offer.

RhoneRangers

The March 22nd Winemakers Dinner — part of the Rhone Rangers Celebration — is a great winemakers dinner, because it features 15 wineries with a three-course meal catered by Girl and the Fig,

G&F

followed by a live auction.

auction

The live auction is a great auction, because there is a going to be a great auction item auctioned.

DG_Aus

Let’s stop for a moment, and do a quick little word association.

If I say, Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale, what do you say?

If you said, legendary Australian Wine Regions, Bob would be your uncle.

If I say, David Gates, what do you say?

If you said, legendary Ridge Vineyards Vineyard Manager and Rhone Rangers President, that would constitute fair dinkum.

If I say, $60,000, do I hear $60,000, can I get a $60,000, and you said, $60,000!, then you’d be going to Australia with David Gates and 7 of your VERY best friends.

Which is great.

IMPORTANT CLARIFICATION ALERT!

$60,000 is the asking price if you want to scoop the bidders and PRE-BUY.

Win it at auction, who knows? Twenty bucks a head?

Could be a bonzer night for the right kind of tall poppy … might be you at the corner table cryin’ Stone The Crows!

But enough of my earbash, here’s the Ridgy-Didge:

DG_Aus

Taste of Australia

with David Gates, Ridge Vineyards

 10 Days – San Francisco to Sydney

January 6th – January 15th, 2014
10 Days – San Francisco to Sydney
Exploring the Wine Regions of:
Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale

Enjoy all the beauty and grandeur of Australia, from the Sydney Opera House, the largest fish market in the southern hemisphere, and the most spectacular harbors and secluded beaches, to picturesque Adelaide Hills, private vineyards, Methode Champenoise cellars, Grange tastings, special blending sessions, private transfers, exquisite accommodations, and much more.

Trip to be auctioned at the Rhone Rangers Winemaker Dinner in San Francisco on March 22nd.
Click here purchase your tickets for the winemakers dinner.

Buy now: purchase the entire package in advance of the auction for the “buy now” price of $60,000 for a group of 8 people.
For details of trip, questions or to purchase contact Cardoza-Bungey Travel at 650-325-5600
or email rhonerangers@cardoza.com.

Click here to learn more about David Gates.

~

Who’s yer uncle?

Bob’s yer uncle.

Featured Wine Of The Weekend: 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache!

January 12, 2013

Launchin’ a lil’ bit of a fun new thing here at Ridge Vineyards this weekend: a new Featured Wine highlight!

The gist is this: each week, we’ll be tasting through potential weekend offerings, and debating out how things are showing, and what seems to be really poppin’. Once a consensus is reached, we’ll assemble some internal tasting notes, find a special spot on the menu, and showcase a particular wine.

To inaugurate the series, we’ve selected a really tremendous offering: the 2006 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Grenache.

06GLE1

As with all of our winery-only offerings (made available initially and primarily through the ATP branch of our Wine Club), this is a wine that saw additional bottle maturation in our cellars prior to release; one of the many advantages of the ATP program is that, because the wines are not distributed, we do not accordingly have to meet any distributor’s schedules; this then accordingly affords us the luxury of essentially “cellaring to taste”; meaning, we release the wine at the dawning of what we feel to be its optimum pourability cycle.

Such was definitely the case with the grenache, and such has traditionally been the case historically as well. While evidencing much that is varietally classic, the older-vine grenache from Lytton can be anamolistic in one signature way; the firmness of the tannin architecture. Accordingly, additional cellaring can be very beneficial.

The 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache was released early in 2012, and is now truly coming into full flower. Regrettably, this also means it is closing in on the end of its inventory allocation! Sadly for all of us who love this wine, with only about 100 cases left, this isn’t a wine we’ll have the pleasure of sharing much longer. All the more reason to showcase it this weekend!

To see where we’ve placed this wine in the weekend menu at Lytton Springs, please click here (and scroll down to the tasting menu link):

http://www.ridgewine.com/Visit/Lytton%20Springs

And for Monte Bello, please click here:

http://www.ridgewine.com/Visit/Monte%20Bello

As to tasting notes for this wine, I’ve two sets to offer; from myself, and from Amy Monroe, our Hospitality Coordinator and resident Oenophile Extraordinaire. First, Amy:

Color: Lovely medium garnet.  Clear – could read my notes through it. 

 Nose: Dried fruit, dark chocolate, currant, blackberry, mint

 Palate: To begin, the wine shows a fair amount of old-world/rustic tannin at the front of the palate.  This tannin dissolves into the somewhat “sweeter” fruit notes described above at mid-palate, but the tannin and the dryness it elicits is an excellent counterbalance against the fruit, resulting in a wine that is not at all sweet, but is instead an interplay of complimentary opposites on the flavor spectrum.  The finish is characterized by a fresh, mouth-watering acidity that creates length – a flavorful, lingering memory of what has just been experienced.

—AM, 1.11.13 

And from yours truly:

Appearance: Somber garnet alight with raspberry highlights; translucent clarity & pale of halo; fairly adhesive glaze with slow-moving & gravitas-laden legs.

 Aromatics: Pannetone-esque dried fruit, hints of pomegranate; a certain cool minty piney-ness balanced against cocoa, sap and maple.

 Palate: Rustic and firm tannin up front, sliding into a surprisingly light & bright acidity; deep harvest-berry fruit profile

 Finish: Centrally-focused, not as wide as in its youth, but longer and more concentrated. Acidity is beautiful, tannins are integrated.

 Summary: Perfect at table; a great food wine. Excellent with higher-fat dishes, and exotic spices will complement exotic dishes. Consider Indian or Coconut Milk-based Thai.

—CW, 1.11.13

06GLE1-front

We hope to see you this weekend, and look very forward to sharing with you this lovely wine! Cheers!

Tasting Notes: 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah

January 4, 2013

In advance of tonight’s First Friday debut of the new 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah, we’re doing a little tasting of our own! Notes below:

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

Aromatics:

A genuinely alluring mélange of olfactory components, each a distinct iteration of density and concentration. The fruit characteristics are dark, baked, and gastrique-sweet; the floral notes are purple-toned and toothsome, and the herbalities are wintry, sylvan, and twilit.

Appearance:

To the eye, the wine is darkly concentrated, richly hued, and evidences a measured viscosity. The halo is a pristine magenta; the belly a compressed Byzantium.

Mid-Palate:

On the palate, the wine is perhaps somewhat brighter than one might be led to expect based on the intensity of the preliminary assessments; the wine is actually quite jovial in its way, with a spry bounce to the acidity and a lively and fresh fruit portfolio. The herbs are still dark, but the black pepper notes in particular are restrained and in good balance. There is a certain tarriness to the very low end of the flavor spectrum that is reminiscent of something along the lines of burnt meat skin, or perhaps teriyaki’d soy, while above is a decidedly sumptuous outpouring of rich and darkly flavorful fruit. The viognier lends a decadent florality to the middle layers, and just a hint of honeyed warmth across the top.

Finish:

The finish is where the viognier seems to have its greatest impact; softening tannins, and rounding out the mouthfeel. There is a powderiness to the tannin profile that plays nicely against the richly baked fruits, and the subtle sweetness contributed by the older barrels used for aging finds a pleasing match in the warm honeyness of the viognier.

08yle1

 

Announcing the 2012 Ridge Vineyards Wine of the Year!

December 28, 2012

I cannot help myself; I’m in the Year-End-List spirit. I MUST make my Best-Ofs …

And for today’s canonically contributive endeavour, I am going to grapple into submission a task never yet set; I am going to attempt to name my Top Five Favorite Ridge Releases of the Year, and then from that, name My Number One Best New Ridge Wine Release of 2012!

Some things to consider:

–Flavor? Put simply, which wine tasted the best?

–Impact? Which release generated the most excitement/activity/buzz? Reviews, Sales, etc.

–The Most Improved Factor? Which wine ran against predictions, and emerged as an unexpected player?

–The Shock and Awe? Which wine just flat-out strafed the viticultural landscape with its awesome power?

–The Surprise? Which wine came seemingly out of nowhere to wow us all?

–Price Break to Quality vs. Overall Dynomiteness? Do you pick the best PBTQ offering, or simply the “best” wine? And are they in fact one and the same?

–Scale? Do  you vote in favor of cross-platform pleasingness, or niche-anchored exceptionalism?

And so forth and so on.

It is also very important to consider context; meaning, given that each wine has its own self-actualizing, self-realizing, self-completing parameters within which it can be judged, one has to find a way to balance contextual success vs. global success. 

For example, how do you handle/reconcile/balance the following: Monte Bello vs. Itself, and Geyserville vs. Itself,  versus Monte Bello vs. Geyserville?

Put another way, is it fair to compare apples and oranges? Do you compare apples only to other apples, and oranges only to other oranges? Or do you simply name the best fruit of all?

For example, the 2009 Monte Bello received 97 points from the International Wine Report, the Lytton Springs received 93 points. So which is the better wine?

And so forth and so on.

So, to begin, let’s first look at what was released in 2012:

  • 2009 Monte Bello
  • 2009 Estate Cabernet
  • 2009 Estate Merlot
  • 2010 Estate Chardonnay
  • 2010 Three Valleys
  • 2010 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah
  • 2010 Geyserville
  • 2010 Lytton Springs
  • 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel
  • 2010 East Bench Zinfandel
  • 2010 Pagani Ranch Zinfandel
  • 2010 Ponzo Zinfandel
  • 2009 Jimsomare Zinfandel
  • 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache
  • 2009 Old School Zinfandel
  • 2007 Lytton Estate Syrah
  • 2009 Carmichael Zinfandel
  • 2010 Buchignani Ranch Carignane
  • 2009 Lytton Estate Zinfandel
  • 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel
  • 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache
  • 2010 Dusi Ranch Zinfandel

Ok, wow. That’s a lot of wine. 22 wines. Yikes. But that’s ok. I can do this.

But before I do this, let me announce unequivocally that there ain’t a dud in the bunch. That may sound like I’m playing it safe, and/or offering the party line. But it’s actually true. This was a VERY good year for our wine releases. So just because a wine doesn’t make my Top 5, doesn’t mean it ain’t groovy. It is.

But the algorithm is a complex one, and it incorporates many, many, many factors.

The algorithm. Formula 4488.

 Algorithm4488

 I’ve fed all the information in. All the customer compliments, all the point scores, all the sales histories, all the tasting notes, literally ALL the relevant data. Into the 4488 algorithm machine (see above). And the machine has churned, and smoked, and labored, and cycled, and processed, and processed, and processed. All the hanging chads have been un-hung, all the handwriting has been analyzed, all the recounts have been recounted. And the first results are in. What follows are my Top Five Ridge Wine Releases of 2012! In no particular order:

  • 2010 Lytton Springs Zinfandel
  • 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel
  • 2010 Buchignani Ranch Carignane
  • 2009 Monte Bello
  • 2009 Estate Cabernet

There. It is written.

And of course, as soon as it is written, I have regrets. How could I have left off …?

But alas, one must narrow down. The Best Ofs are calling.

So these are it. The Five.

There are many, many, many things to recommend each of these selections. The astonishing price-break-to-quality performance of the Estate Cabernet. The ratings and reviews frenzy around the 2009 Monte Bello. The cult fascination with the Carignane. The sleeper success of the Paso Robles. The canon re-defining 2010 Lytton Springs. They’re all exceptional wines.

But in the end, by the totally arbitrary standards of the Best Ofs and the Top Fives, there can only be one. One wine that stands above the rest as The 2012 Ridge Wine Release Of The Year.

The 2012 Ridge Wine Release Of The Year is …

Drum roll

The 2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs!

Put simply, this is an amazing offering, and it hits on every single cylinder possible. Consider the factors we looked at above:

–Flavor? This wine tastes flat-out incredible. It’s beautiful and complex and fun and sensual and inviting and delicious and delicious.

–Impact? One of the best-selling vintages of Lytton Springs ever, and certainly one of the best reviewed as well.

–The Most Improved Factor? Admittedly, this is a canon that’s hard to improve on — Lytton Springs has been a tremendous wine for decades — but it’s certain the 2010 will go down as one of the truly great vintages.

–The Shock and Awe? The Lytton Springs was a force. No question about it. It was omnipresent. Ubiquitous.

–The Surprise? As anyone who follows Northern California viticulture knows, 2010 was a DIFFICULT vintage. That this wine should be so good under these circumstances is all the more impressive.

–Price Break to Quality vs. Overall Dynomiteness? Do you pick the best PBTQ offering, or simply the “best” wine? And are they in fact one and the same? In this case, they’re one and the same.

–Scale? While the Lytton Springs is one of our largest productions, it still seems at times to be the red-haired stepchild to the Geyserville, and as such, this wine manages to achieve worldwide appeal while still appealing to the culties.

In short, this is a hell of a wine.

And with that I say, congratulations to all our releases! Together, they have made for a tremendous 2012′s worth of wines.

And then I say, congratulations to our Top Five Wines of 2012. You are truly wondrous things.

And finally I say, congratulations to the First Annual “4488: A Ridge Blog” Ridge Wine Release of the Year, the 2010 Lytton Springs!

You may take your place in the canon.

The new 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache arrives in our Tasting Rooms THIS WEEKEND!

December 14, 2012

In the Zone with the Bone on SpeakerPhone, settin’ skills on Hone, takin’ the Throne on Loan from the Combat Zone, and Prone to Condone the Rhone!

Meaning, one of my all-time favorite Ridge releases is due to unveil its new vintage in our Tasting Rooms this weekend!

Ladies and Gentlemen, may I present, the new 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache!

Decanting now …

08xle1

Purple-flowing love ink in the crystal; violet and magenta and deliciousness …

Set sensorial aromatica on stun; lavender and lilac and grape and Maine blueberry slump and supine fineness …

Mood indigo, thy blanket wraps my tongue; the blue flatted third; deep, deep, deep, all this ridiculous beauty …

A giant of a wine; a towering, beautiful, giant, a wine pirate, a swashbuckling rogue in exotic finery, flying a blue flag atop a black sea …

One word.

Visit.

 

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 22, 2012

I am an admittedly idiosyncratic traditionalist, in that I am rarely much for traditional traditions, but am conversely rather boffo for my own rather less-than-traditional iterations thereof; which makes it all the more of a personal revolution in the offing that I am posting these words today.

This is, of course, the rambling preambling to the preamble of my annual “Things I’m Thankful For” post; which I traditionally, per the terms of my own tradition, post on the 23rd of November. Which I was dead on track for doing again this year. Except here it is, Thanksgiving, and I’m feeling all thankful-laden, and it simply feels odd not to commit these lines to the blog-o-web on this most gratitudinous of days. Yet it’s the 22nd, a proposition that defies convention. But blast it all, tradition be damned, what? On with the show! Pip Pip!

When I ponder the word Thankful, I see my wife’s face. As I do when I ponder the other following words:

Fortunate, Blessed, and Grateful.

These are of course self-referential. When I simply ponder her, as opposed to how I feel when I consider the blessing upon me that is she, these then are some of the words that come to mind:

Wise, Beautiful, Magical, Powerful, Amazing, Fragile, Astounding, Tender, Perfect, and Love.

I am so thankful for my wife. My friend, my lover, my partner, my wife. I am so thankful for my wife. One can define the almighty in whatever ways one wishes, of course; but if the definition of God has something to do with that which gives life to life, that which governs all, that foundational being that is the alpha and omega of all things, then she has dominion over all my world. She is the Bodhisattva come to help me, the Savior come to save me, the God come to raise me. I am so thankful for my wife.

And I am so thankful for my daughter, before whom I am a positively helpless puddle of mush. What hasn’t this small, beautiful creature given to me? There is no shade of blue in the sky, no streak of green in the sea, that she has not alerted me to. No whisper of wind in the night, no chirp of bird in the day, that she has not called my ears toward. There is no tear duct in my eye she has not drained of its feeling, no cavity of my heart that she has not filled. What hue of autumn leaf, what scent of springtime blossom, has she not drawn me to? What a thing, to have a daughter! I am so thankful for my daughter.

For my wife, and my daughter, I am so thankful. A Love Supreme.

Which reminds me that I am also distinctly grateful for John Coltrane.

And wine glass sizes drawn in fractions. Like 19.75 oz. glasses.

And the wines that inhabit them.

Like, perhaps, the 1981 Monte Bello, which tasted so fine just this past Sunday.

Which would also taste so fine in, for example, a flat-bottom glass.

I am so thankful for people who drink red wine from flat-bottom glasses.

And grandparents. There is no insanity like the insanity of grandparents. That my little family of three – Papa Bear, Mama Bear, Baby Bear – has two hearty and hale sets of grandparents, is a blessing beyond compare. To watch our little girl in their blissful company is a gift unimaginable. I am so thankful for our parents; grandparents to our wonderful daughter. I am so thankful for this.

As I am for the knoll at Monte Bello. Such a place to stand and contemplate the void, to be temporarily one with the ancestors staring at the walls and seeing truth.

I am thankful for poetry, and the wines that have, through time, lubricated its fragile and complex gears.

Like, for example, the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, which tasted so fine just … yesterday.

There are few moments greater than the moment when your father and your wife bring to their respective lips the wine you have poured for them. I am thankful for these moments.

I am thankful for Haiku.

I am thankful for people who do not ask me to throw away their chewing gum upon their arrival at the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

In fact, I am thankful for people who do not chew gum.

I am thankful for wooden canes, and limping through vine rows relying on one.

I am thankful for Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson. If you’ve ever come to Monte Bello, and accordingly felt a bit of magic enter your soul and there take up permanent residence, there to be called upon whenever your worry and care threaten to overwhelm you in the pursuit of your conventional happinesses, it is likely because you were moved by Amy and/or Sam and/or Kirsten. They are in the practice of providing memories that will last forever, and they are rather excellent at this endeavor. They have given me so much to be thankful for, and are to me canonical saints in the pantheon of Monte Bello magic.

I am thankful for the word canonical.

And the word Vertical. And the thing that is, in winespeak, a Vertical.

And the Estate Cabernet Vertical, which will not be available for much longer. I am thankful it is still available, because the 2004 Estate Cabernet, is, in particular, one of the best wines I’ve ever had. It was also one of my first loves upon joining the family at Ridge, and in it, I taste my good fortune.

I am thankful for P.G. Wodehouse, for having given to the world Jeeves and Bertie Wooster, of whose exploits with the cow-creamer, last night, were so delightful to read.

I am thankful that I do not believe in decent-tasting “entry-level” wines costing $10/bottle, any more than I believe in decent-sounding “entry-level” Telecasters costing $100.

I am thankful for windows that lock and unlock with ease.

I am thankful for wines that taste especially fine whilst standing at windows gazing out at trees in autumn. Like the 1992 Monte Bello, which, out of a 375ml bottle, tastes especially fine whilst standing at a window (open or closed, whatever, it’s easy to lock and unlock) gazing out at a tree in autumn.

I am thankful for candles.

I am thankful for bow-ties, which, perhaps come the New Year, I shall resolve to wear more of.

I am thankful for champys, and the people who use the term.

And for the people who drink champys.

I am thankful for champys.

And Bodhisattvas.

I am thankful that Ridge has found a place in its heart to place me.

I am thankful that, in lieu of a manpurse, I wear sportcoats.

I am thankful for everyone who comes to Monte Bello in the summertime, and doesn’t comment of the fact that I am wearing a sportcoat.

I am thankful for Aaron, Antonio, Barry, Emma, Jane, Jenny, Karen, Kathryn, Kim, Lori, Michael, Nancy, Peter, Samantha, Sonja, and Tara. Because Hospitality is holy, and they are the true keepers of the faith. The foundational saints. The canonical hosts. To truly “host” a guest is an essential act of love, compassion, empathy, sympathy, faith, and kindness. I am thankful for these wonderful human beings, and for the generosity of spirit they so consistently offer.

I am thankful for the XTC song “Dear God.”

I am thankful that the new 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch is such an absolutely excellent contribution to the Mazzoni canon.

I am thankful for high-quality buff cloths, and the wine hosts that know how to use them.

I am thankful for ritual, and what it teaches us, and I am thankful that the world of wine is so ritualized.

I am thankful for people who, when confronted by those who know a bit more than themselves about something, think first, “Wonderful!” as opposed to “Snob!”

I am thankful that I know so little, because I look so forward to learning.

I am thankful that a great deal of my “work” at Ridge is “learning” more about wine.

Learning more about, for example, the 2007 Monte Bello. For reasons soon to be revealed!

I am thankful for things that are soon to be revealed, as I do not enjoy surprises or secrets, though I am thankful for them. Thankful that they offer the opportunity for revelation.

I am thankful for Son House.

I am thankful for anyone who can figure out a way to work wine into a tattoo without looking like a rather foolish sort.

I am thankful for Syrah co-fermented with Viognier.

I am thankful that part of my “job” at Ridge involves sitting at table with people like Kathy and Ingrid, and “working” on food & wine pairings.

I am thankful that I very often have occasion, while at work at Ridge, to deploy the term “culinarily companionable.”

I am thankful that I get to write this blog. Not only is it a still-very-overwhelming honor, but it also allows me to make up a great many words; a great many made-up words that, when discovered and subsequently called out as being made-up, become the springboard for me to deliver my patented lecture on the true value of language and its purposes. Which no one needs to hear anymore.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for trumpet mutes, and the jazz players who deploy them.

I am thankful that Ridge makes wine like Thelonious Monk made chords.

I am thankful that Sumano’s bakery makes Watsonville Sourdough.

I am thankful for drinking wine, eating bread and cheese, and riding ferries.

I am thankful that Bellwether Farms makes San Andreas. And I am thankful for being able to taste it while sipping on 1978 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for harvest videos, and the opportunity to make them.

I am thankful for #Harvest2012.

I am thankful that I do not dream in hashtags.

I am thankful that if one Googles “Generation X Characteristics,” the very first entry that appears lists the following:

• Cynical

• Skeptical

• Independent

• Problem-solvers/resourceful

• Defy Authority

• Reality driven

• Distaste “touchy feely”

• Technology Competent

• Resist Hierarchy

• Multitasker

I am thankful that I still manage to rarely use the word “Google” as a verb.

I am thankful for walking cities.

I feel thankful when I go walking in a city, and the person I am walking with says, “My, that looks like a nice wine shop!”

I am thankful for Christopher Robin, Winnie the Pooh, and all the denizens of the Hundred-Acre Wood.

I am thankful for the poet Sharon Olds, because she writes about woman things in ways that can truly move a man.

I am thankful that as soon as we were installed in our little post-birth “hotel” at the hospital, my very exhausted and triumphantly beautiful wife called for Cava and Monte Bello.

I am thankful that when my wife calls for champys, she calls for Coupe glasses.

I am thankful for coupe glasses.

I am thankful for trains.

I am thankful for movies made before 1970.

I am thankful for music made before 1980.

I am thankful for wine made before 1990.

I am thankful for balsamic vinegar made before 2000.

I am thankful for books made before 2010.

I am thankful for wonderful exceptions to the above.

I am thankful for wine poured before I wrote “I am thankful for wine poured …,” like, for example, any of our Syrah/Grenache blends.

I am currently thankful for the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache, and I am previously grateful for all the other vintages.

I am thankful that my daughter just announced that her Grandpa “stinks like Thanksgiving.”

I am thankful that some people still roller skate.

I am thankful for limousine drivers that do not park in spaces reserved for the disabled.

I am thankful for wine drinkers that are not drunkards.

I am thankful that calm, clear-headed, self-possessed, serious, alert, concerned, cool, exacting, rigorous, thoughtful, vigilant, and pure are all synonyms for “sober.”

I am thankful that, while it’s today in the news that it’s going to happen, Nikki Sixx’s “Heroin Diaries” is not yet, in fact, a Broadway Musical.

I am thankful that, for the fourth year in a row, I have the opportunity to praise Haig’s Hummus. I am thankful for Haig’s Hummus. And I am thankful for the way Haig’s Hummus tastes when it’s in your mouth, wrapped up in a big balloon-size swallow of Ridge chardonnay.

I am thankful for Ridge Chardonnay. Especially the 2010 Monte Bello Chardonnay, which, when released, will F%*&KIN blow your mind.

I am thankful for %*&.

I am thankful that we have a President who likes wine.

I am thankful for Zen.

I am thankful for the Monterey Bay, and how it makes Carignane taste. Especially Ridge Carignane. Which always tastes so nice, but tastes especially nice when sipped next to Monterey Bay.

I am thankful for John Olney, and I am thankful for the Carignane that he makes.

I am thankful for everyone at Lytton Springs, and for the opportunity to make this appreciation public. I am especially thankful for my counterpart Sandy Johnson, because her greatness humbles me daily, and it is good to be humbled. And I am thankful for her friendship, because it is good to have friends. And I am thankful for her colleagues that I get to, albeit infrequently, work with, namely Jason and Eliot. I wish I got to see them more, because I am always thankful for the opportunity. And it’s good to be thankful.

I am thankful that I rarely see myself in the mirror making air quotes.

I am thankful for Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney, David Gates, Kyle Theriot, Will Thomas, Shun Ishikubo, and Muiris Griffin, for the absurdity of how much they’ve taught me, and how patient they’ve been with me.

I am thankful for when Petit Verdot gets ripe. Because if swampy and funky can become fragrant and floral, then beauty is forever possible.

I am thankful for every moment there is not violence.

I am thankful for funny instructions on fading paper, push-pinned to dirty corkboard, that say things like, “If  you see a mountain lion, don’t bend over,” because who bends over when they see a mountain lion? And I am thankful that this is based on a true story.

I am thankful for true stories. And made up ones as well.

I am thankful for the opportunity to read poems that were written by people who were drinking wine while they were writing.

I am thankful to Ryan Moore, because he is my boss, and he seems to kind of like me. Which really feels good.

And I am thankful that the fates and powers that blessed Ryan with a wonderful wife have now blessed him with a beautiful, wonderful child, because I am very happy for him, and it’s good to be happy for other people.

I am also happy for myself, and am thankful that I have been blessed with a wonderful wife and a beautiful, wonderful child.

I am thankful that the obvious similarities between myself and my boss obviously continue.

I am thankful for the days when my boss calls and says things like, “Have you tasted the 2007 Dynamite Hill recently?” And I say, “No.” And he says, “Can you pull a bottle and taste it, and tell me what you think?” And I say, “Yes, boss.”

I am thankful for, in no particular order: Love, and the Lack of Hate.

Also for Charlie Christian, Sonny Rollins, Bud Powell, Lester Young, Bill Evans, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Django Reinhardt, Miles Davis, Wes Montgomery, Zoot Sims, and Grant Green.

I am thankful that Duke Ellington is the Monte Bello of Jazz, and that Monte Bello is the Duke Ellington of Wine.

I am thankful for what localism teaches us about being peaceful with one another.

I am thankful that wine from our estates makes people feel peaceful.

I am thankful for peace.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for the certainty that this list will never end, and that, when confronted with all the wonderful things I’ve inadvertently omitted from this iteration of this list, I will have another opportunity at some future time to make amends.

I am thankful for ancient Mountains-and-Rivers Poetry.

I am thankful that I work on a mountain.

I am thankful to Ridge, for forever altering my life in momentous ways I could have never imagined, for, above all else, affording me the means to support my family.

I am thankful to Ridge for trusting me to speak for Ridge.

I am thankful for Merlot.

I am thankful for pine cones.

I am thankful for rattlesnakes, and the ones that don’t bite me.

I am thankful to Penske, for renting me the truck that carried me from New York to California, for helping to prove in yet one more way that Northern California is indeed the promised land, for stopping when I needed it to stop, at that truck stop where I first got on the phone with Nicole and inaugurated the process that would eventually culminate in my being hired by Ridge, and for starting again when it was time to start driving again to California.

I am thankful for my parents. And your parents.

I am thankful for anyone who buys a fine bottle of wine for their parents.

I am thankful for parents who buy Monte Bello from the birth year of their children.

I am thankful for the poetry of Dylan Thomas.

I am thankful for every moment, in every corner of the world, in which someone eats a slice of pizza, then takes a rather healthy swallow of really good wine.

I will never admit it to her, but in truth, I am thankful that my wife did not allow me to name our daughter “Pizza” as I wanted to, because even though this would guarantee I would spend my life saying, “I love you, Pizza” over and over, it wouldn’t have in fact been particularly fair to our daughter, and if there’s one thing that being a parent teaches you, it’s that love means someone else.

I am thankful for pizza.

I am thankful for pizza and wine.

I am thankful for, not Chivas Regal in a $5 room (as Tom Waits had it), but pizza and a $400 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for art, and those who mean to make it.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good day.

I am thankful you read this.

I am thankful for that which you feel thankful for.

I feel thankful for you, whoever you are.

I feel thankful.

I am thankful.

Thank you.

Tasting Notes: Assessing Possible 2013 ATP Releases

November 3, 2012

ATP Contenders …

It’s a ritual I always look very forward to; the tastings in which we consider possible release schedules for upcoming ATP wines. Why? Because I really, really, really love our ATP program. Want proof? When I was first hired by Ridge, one of the very first things I did to celebrate was to enroll my Dad in the ATP program. Because I really, really, really love our ATP wines. And now, he does too! (Plus, I really, really, really love my Dad! And, my Mom too, but she’s not much of a wine drinker …)

Anyhow, the Fall edition of this ATP tasting experience is always particularly enjoyable, as it’s generally the tasting in which we conclude by putting forth our first draft of the following year’s ATP release calendar.

The Tasters (minus moi, behind the lens …)

What this means, is that we taste a short list of ATP wines (already in bottle, but not yet released), to ascertain a) how they’re developing in the bottle, b) how soon they’ll be ready to release, and c) where on the calendar they best belong.

A number of factors go into making the decisions, but they can be deconstructed down to a pair of key considerations: a) developmental trajectory, and b) seasonality; meaning, how are they aging, and what time of year are the wines best suited for?

Paul Draper, talking ATP …

The first matter is very important when you take into consideration our approach to the ATP program. These wines are all very small-production, single-vineyard wines, and as such, they are traditionally available only through Ridge; meaning, they are not distributed. Which means there is no distributor calendar to meet. Which means we can release them when we want to. Which means, essentially, that we release them only when we feel that they are beginning to move into the first stages of their early drinkability. Meaning, we do a bit of the cellar aging for you! Which is why assessing developmental trajectory is important; we need to feel confident about how a wine is presenting, before we confirm it for a release date.

Tasting Notes …

The second consideration is vitally intertwined with the first in an important fashion, in that, unlike with some of our comparatively larger-production distribution wines — which we generally recommend laying down for a period of time — we operate under the assumption that the ATP wines are likely to be consumed reasonably close to their release date (given the extent that we hold them in our cellars first), which means that seasonality becomes quite important; as but one example, we wouldn’t be likely to release a Petite Sirah in July any more than we’d be likely to release a Chardonnay in January! Though that said, there are always exceptions …

ATP, through the drinking glass …

Anyhow, our tasting was set for November 1st, with a roster of 7 wines to assess:

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Petite Sirah

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah /Grenache

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

And here are some brief tasting notes:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Rich, slightly smoky, with a hint of sweetness, offset by a nicely subtle florality

Palate:

Bright, lifted, great acidity, medium bodyweight; compelling notes of persimmon, dried apple, and black cherry

Finish:

Taut & lean, showing a smoothening continuation of good acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Plummy, sweet, and concentrated, with hints of cocoa, caramel, and chocolate.

Palate:

A slight mentholation lifts the otherwise round, voluptuous, and decidedly zin-driven opulence; shows hints of almond extract, medium-sour cherry, and an overall decadence and unctuousness

Finish:

An emergent mix of black and white peppers invitingly complexilates the rich fruit

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Cedar and vanilla/caramel, reserved fruit, some great autumn spice, even a hint of 5-spice

Palate:

Very focused, quite muscular architecture, tannin-forward, with good acidity and dense mid-tone fruit

Finish:

Gentle, with mello acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache

Aromatics:

Dried fruit, Italian Pannetone, sandalwood, lavender and lilac, blackberry and blueberry preserves

Palate:

Smooth, balanced, integrated; great mix of fruit and spice, on the edge of decadent, but perfectly put together

Finish:

Pretty intense attack on the finish; short and wide, and an excellently reconciled expression of the fruit and spice balance

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

Aromatics:

Loads of umami; savory to the nth; good ripe fruit with a deep black core redolent of blackberry, briar, and blueberry slump

Palate:

Nicely weighty, round, fully spread across the palate, with chalky tannins, and a touch of bright cherry

Finish:

Very tannin-forward, strong architecture, deep and intense, with nice notes of black pepper and cocoa powder

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Massive amounts of fruit on the nose; powerful, ripe, strong and muscular, with intense notes of blackberry preserves

Palate:

Fairly lifted, with higher-tone fruit; red apple skin, sour cherry, and cranberry, all mixed into a very rich rendition of Dry Creek briar and bramble

Finish:

An intense combination of tannin, acid, fruit, herb, spice, etc.; meaning, lots of everything, in copious amounts. A very intense wine

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah

Aromatics:

Coffee, chicory, with an appealing duskiness comprised of, among other components, an air of burr-ground coffee beans

Palate:

Approachable, not too deep into the black, nice compendium of lo-tone fruit: black cherry and pluot in particular

Finish:

Good amount of acidity, very focused down the center of the palate, with a nice skin tannin presence lending an appealing mellowness

#Harvest2012: The Rhones Are Coming!

October 8, 2012

If you were visiting the Monte Bello Tasting Room on Sunday, and you happened to be up on our knoll at about 2pm in the afternoon, you would have gotten quite the visual treat. Looking down on the road below, you would have seen a grape truck making its way to the Monte Bello Winery carrying a delivery of Grenache and Petite Sirah from Sonoma; quite a journey, to say the least!

As to myself, I headed up to the winery just behind the grape truck, and was able to catch the fruit as it was being delivered from gondola to conveyor; first up was the Grenache …

The fruit came down from a section of the Lytton Springs Estate known as Lytton West, seen here via our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Nestled in between the East Bench Vineyards and Lytton East (where the Lytton Springs winery is located), Lytton West is a singularly weathered and uniquely diverse planting that features a fantastic mix of varietals; two acres of which are devoted to Grenache …

Here are winemakers Eric Baugher and Shun Ishikubo, patiently pitchforkin’ the fruit onto the belt …

The day’s other delivery was Petite Sirah from Geyserville …

Even from my distant vantage point high atop the gondola-laden truck bed, overlooking  David Gates (VP of Vineyard Operations), Shun Ishikubo (Assistant Winemaker), and Joshua Smith (Harvest Intern) at the belt, I could clearly see the knockout intensity of the grape color; no mistaking this fruit for anything BUT Petite Sirah!

There are over 8 acres of Petite Sirah planted at Geyserville, as can be seen here in a still image for our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Last week’s heat continues to impact the vineyards, as #Harvest2012 pushes ever-onwards, ever-faster. It’s been a decade at least since we’ve seen a year like this, an the excitement borders on overwhelming as everyone races to bring the fruit in on time.

I was in a meeting with Paul Draper this morning, and in discussing the quality of this year’s fruit, he repeatedly used the word “exceptional.” Be excited. Be very, very excited.

#Harvest2012.

Feel it.


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