Archive for the ‘Petite Sirah’ Category

‘Twas The Night Before First Friday …

December 6, 2012

Tomorrow is the day.

The big day.

The big First Friday day.

And I have visions of Ridge wine dancing in my head.

I have the 2007 Monte Bello Chardonnay dancing in my head.

2007-Chard-MB-bottle-shot

I see its bold, golden hues in the bowl, I see the meticulous glides of its legs down the sides …

I smell its honey-warm come-on, the seasonal ecru, the mineral, the yeast, the sweet hazel cream …

I taste its balance — impeccable — its structure — in focus — its gravitas, depth, and complexity …

I savor its autumn exotic, I savor its wintering comfort …

I have the 2010 Geyserville dancing in my head.

10ZGY

I see its ruby-red hues sparkling in crystal; I see its crimson threads running elegantly down the bowl; I see magenta in its halo …

I smell its farmer’s market basket of fruit; bright with raspberry, cherry, and spry little plums. I smells its spices, its bramble, its minerals…

I taste its round mouthfeel, its plush, spreading juice, its lifted and fresh, sly decadence…

In the finish, the linger, as languid as post-loving bliss; I taste its rich, red largesse …

I have the 2006 Estate Cabernet dancing in my head.

06xse

I gaze deep in its robicund countenance, and I see alive people … I see earth, and a rufescent halo, I see sunset’s florid vermillion …

I smell forest, and mystery, and magic, and mountain; the rustic elixir, acidity, mineral …

I taste lush striation, the round rings of history, the bark that is so much very better than bite …

I taste black fruit and elegance, and linger in black herbs and herbal abundance …

The coolness of acidity balanced to tannin, the leanness of spice balanced to fruit, the balance of alcohol balanced to juice, the fineness of structure balanced to breadth, the flash of the high-tone, the flesh of the low …

I have the 2009 Monte Bello dancing in my head.

09CMB-web

I smell the regal stitched in to the richest of fabrics …

I see the holy sewn in to the deepest of robes …

I taste the magical wedded in braids of fine wonder …

I linger, in love, the ineffable peace …

The black fruit and black herb beguiling aromatica …

The eucalyptal, cool-climate beguile …

The limestone and yeast, the dried fruit and pepper …

The anise, the fennel, the chicory …

The perfection of grape in perfect land harmony, spilt into decadence, splashed into glass, split into now and forever …

I have the 2010 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah dancing in my head.

10PLE

The capacious complexity, the heliotrope halo and mulberry middle, the muscular solemnity of deep, sensual darkness …

The weight, the languidity, the power and passion, the soulful low moan of the baritone …

The umami umami, the savory savor …

The chalk and the powder, the crushed rock and talcum, the tannin, the beams, and the girders …

I see the baroque, and I smell the romantic; I taste the deep power of renaissance …

This linger must last me forever …

‘Twas the night before First Friday, and visions of Ridge wine, alive in my head …

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 22, 2012

I am an admittedly idiosyncratic traditionalist, in that I am rarely much for traditional traditions, but am conversely rather boffo for my own rather less-than-traditional iterations thereof; which makes it all the more of a personal revolution in the offing that I am posting these words today.

This is, of course, the rambling preambling to the preamble of my annual “Things I’m Thankful For” post; which I traditionally, per the terms of my own tradition, post on the 23rd of November. Which I was dead on track for doing again this year. Except here it is, Thanksgiving, and I’m feeling all thankful-laden, and it simply feels odd not to commit these lines to the blog-o-web on this most gratitudinous of days. Yet it’s the 22nd, a proposition that defies convention. But blast it all, tradition be damned, what? On with the show! Pip Pip!

When I ponder the word Thankful, I see my wife’s face. As I do when I ponder the other following words:

Fortunate, Blessed, and Grateful.

These are of course self-referential. When I simply ponder her, as opposed to how I feel when I consider the blessing upon me that is she, these then are some of the words that come to mind:

Wise, Beautiful, Magical, Powerful, Amazing, Fragile, Astounding, Tender, Perfect, and Love.

I am so thankful for my wife. My friend, my lover, my partner, my wife. I am so thankful for my wife. One can define the almighty in whatever ways one wishes, of course; but if the definition of God has something to do with that which gives life to life, that which governs all, that foundational being that is the alpha and omega of all things, then she has dominion over all my world. She is the Bodhisattva come to help me, the Savior come to save me, the God come to raise me. I am so thankful for my wife.

And I am so thankful for my daughter, before whom I am a positively helpless puddle of mush. What hasn’t this small, beautiful creature given to me? There is no shade of blue in the sky, no streak of green in the sea, that she has not alerted me to. No whisper of wind in the night, no chirp of bird in the day, that she has not called my ears toward. There is no tear duct in my eye she has not drained of its feeling, no cavity of my heart that she has not filled. What hue of autumn leaf, what scent of springtime blossom, has she not drawn me to? What a thing, to have a daughter! I am so thankful for my daughter.

For my wife, and my daughter, I am so thankful. A Love Supreme.

Which reminds me that I am also distinctly grateful for John Coltrane.

And wine glass sizes drawn in fractions. Like 19.75 oz. glasses.

And the wines that inhabit them.

Like, perhaps, the 1981 Monte Bello, which tasted so fine just this past Sunday.

Which would also taste so fine in, for example, a flat-bottom glass.

I am so thankful for people who drink red wine from flat-bottom glasses.

And grandparents. There is no insanity like the insanity of grandparents. That my little family of three – Papa Bear, Mama Bear, Baby Bear – has two hearty and hale sets of grandparents, is a blessing beyond compare. To watch our little girl in their blissful company is a gift unimaginable. I am so thankful for our parents; grandparents to our wonderful daughter. I am so thankful for this.

As I am for the knoll at Monte Bello. Such a place to stand and contemplate the void, to be temporarily one with the ancestors staring at the walls and seeing truth.

I am thankful for poetry, and the wines that have, through time, lubricated its fragile and complex gears.

Like, for example, the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, which tasted so fine just … yesterday.

There are few moments greater than the moment when your father and your wife bring to their respective lips the wine you have poured for them. I am thankful for these moments.

I am thankful for Haiku.

I am thankful for people who do not ask me to throw away their chewing gum upon their arrival at the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

In fact, I am thankful for people who do not chew gum.

I am thankful for wooden canes, and limping through vine rows relying on one.

I am thankful for Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson. If you’ve ever come to Monte Bello, and accordingly felt a bit of magic enter your soul and there take up permanent residence, there to be called upon whenever your worry and care threaten to overwhelm you in the pursuit of your conventional happinesses, it is likely because you were moved by Amy and/or Sam and/or Kirsten. They are in the practice of providing memories that will last forever, and they are rather excellent at this endeavor. They have given me so much to be thankful for, and are to me canonical saints in the pantheon of Monte Bello magic.

I am thankful for the word canonical.

And the word Vertical. And the thing that is, in winespeak, a Vertical.

And the Estate Cabernet Vertical, which will not be available for much longer. I am thankful it is still available, because the 2004 Estate Cabernet, is, in particular, one of the best wines I’ve ever had. It was also one of my first loves upon joining the family at Ridge, and in it, I taste my good fortune.

I am thankful for P.G. Wodehouse, for having given to the world Jeeves and Bertie Wooster, of whose exploits with the cow-creamer, last night, were so delightful to read.

I am thankful that I do not believe in decent-tasting “entry-level” wines costing $10/bottle, any more than I believe in decent-sounding “entry-level” Telecasters costing $100.

I am thankful for windows that lock and unlock with ease.

I am thankful for wines that taste especially fine whilst standing at windows gazing out at trees in autumn. Like the 1992 Monte Bello, which, out of a 375ml bottle, tastes especially fine whilst standing at a window (open or closed, whatever, it’s easy to lock and unlock) gazing out at a tree in autumn.

I am thankful for candles.

I am thankful for bow-ties, which, perhaps come the New Year, I shall resolve to wear more of.

I am thankful for champys, and the people who use the term.

And for the people who drink champys.

I am thankful for champys.

And Bodhisattvas.

I am thankful that Ridge has found a place in its heart to place me.

I am thankful that, in lieu of a manpurse, I wear sportcoats.

I am thankful for everyone who comes to Monte Bello in the summertime, and doesn’t comment of the fact that I am wearing a sportcoat.

I am thankful for Aaron, Antonio, Barry, Emma, Jane, Jenny, Karen, Kathryn, Kim, Lori, Michael, Nancy, Peter, Samantha, Sonja, and Tara. Because Hospitality is holy, and they are the true keepers of the faith. The foundational saints. The canonical hosts. To truly “host” a guest is an essential act of love, compassion, empathy, sympathy, faith, and kindness. I am thankful for these wonderful human beings, and for the generosity of spirit they so consistently offer.

I am thankful for the XTC song “Dear God.”

I am thankful that the new 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch is such an absolutely excellent contribution to the Mazzoni canon.

I am thankful for high-quality buff cloths, and the wine hosts that know how to use them.

I am thankful for ritual, and what it teaches us, and I am thankful that the world of wine is so ritualized.

I am thankful for people who, when confronted by those who know a bit more than themselves about something, think first, “Wonderful!” as opposed to “Snob!”

I am thankful that I know so little, because I look so forward to learning.

I am thankful that a great deal of my “work” at Ridge is “learning” more about wine.

Learning more about, for example, the 2007 Monte Bello. For reasons soon to be revealed!

I am thankful for things that are soon to be revealed, as I do not enjoy surprises or secrets, though I am thankful for them. Thankful that they offer the opportunity for revelation.

I am thankful for Son House.

I am thankful for anyone who can figure out a way to work wine into a tattoo without looking like a rather foolish sort.

I am thankful for Syrah co-fermented with Viognier.

I am thankful that part of my “job” at Ridge involves sitting at table with people like Kathy and Ingrid, and “working” on food & wine pairings.

I am thankful that I very often have occasion, while at work at Ridge, to deploy the term “culinarily companionable.”

I am thankful that I get to write this blog. Not only is it a still-very-overwhelming honor, but it also allows me to make up a great many words; a great many made-up words that, when discovered and subsequently called out as being made-up, become the springboard for me to deliver my patented lecture on the true value of language and its purposes. Which no one needs to hear anymore.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for trumpet mutes, and the jazz players who deploy them.

I am thankful that Ridge makes wine like Thelonious Monk made chords.

I am thankful that Sumano’s bakery makes Watsonville Sourdough.

I am thankful for drinking wine, eating bread and cheese, and riding ferries.

I am thankful that Bellwether Farms makes San Andreas. And I am thankful for being able to taste it while sipping on 1978 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for harvest videos, and the opportunity to make them.

I am thankful for #Harvest2012.

I am thankful that I do not dream in hashtags.

I am thankful that if one Googles “Generation X Characteristics,” the very first entry that appears lists the following:

• Cynical

• Skeptical

• Independent

• Problem-solvers/resourceful

• Defy Authority

• Reality driven

• Distaste “touchy feely”

• Technology Competent

• Resist Hierarchy

• Multitasker

I am thankful that I still manage to rarely use the word “Google” as a verb.

I am thankful for walking cities.

I feel thankful when I go walking in a city, and the person I am walking with says, “My, that looks like a nice wine shop!”

I am thankful for Christopher Robin, Winnie the Pooh, and all the denizens of the Hundred-Acre Wood.

I am thankful for the poet Sharon Olds, because she writes about woman things in ways that can truly move a man.

I am thankful that as soon as we were installed in our little post-birth “hotel” at the hospital, my very exhausted and triumphantly beautiful wife called for Cava and Monte Bello.

I am thankful that when my wife calls for champys, she calls for Coupe glasses.

I am thankful for coupe glasses.

I am thankful for trains.

I am thankful for movies made before 1970.

I am thankful for music made before 1980.

I am thankful for wine made before 1990.

I am thankful for balsamic vinegar made before 2000.

I am thankful for books made before 2010.

I am thankful for wonderful exceptions to the above.

I am thankful for wine poured before I wrote “I am thankful for wine poured …,” like, for example, any of our Syrah/Grenache blends.

I am currently thankful for the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache, and I am previously grateful for all the other vintages.

I am thankful that my daughter just announced that her Grandpa “stinks like Thanksgiving.”

I am thankful that some people still roller skate.

I am thankful for limousine drivers that do not park in spaces reserved for the disabled.

I am thankful for wine drinkers that are not drunkards.

I am thankful that calm, clear-headed, self-possessed, serious, alert, concerned, cool, exacting, rigorous, thoughtful, vigilant, and pure are all synonyms for “sober.”

I am thankful that, while it’s today in the news that it’s going to happen, Nikki Sixx’s “Heroin Diaries” is not yet, in fact, a Broadway Musical.

I am thankful that, for the fourth year in a row, I have the opportunity to praise Haig’s Hummus. I am thankful for Haig’s Hummus. And I am thankful for the way Haig’s Hummus tastes when it’s in your mouth, wrapped up in a big balloon-size swallow of Ridge chardonnay.

I am thankful for Ridge Chardonnay. Especially the 2010 Monte Bello Chardonnay, which, when released, will F%*&KIN blow your mind.

I am thankful for %*&.

I am thankful that we have a President who likes wine.

I am thankful for Zen.

I am thankful for the Monterey Bay, and how it makes Carignane taste. Especially Ridge Carignane. Which always tastes so nice, but tastes especially nice when sipped next to Monterey Bay.

I am thankful for John Olney, and I am thankful for the Carignane that he makes.

I am thankful for everyone at Lytton Springs, and for the opportunity to make this appreciation public. I am especially thankful for my counterpart Sandy Johnson, because her greatness humbles me daily, and it is good to be humbled. And I am thankful for her friendship, because it is good to have friends. And I am thankful for her colleagues that I get to, albeit infrequently, work with, namely Jason and Eliot. I wish I got to see them more, because I am always thankful for the opportunity. And it’s good to be thankful.

I am thankful that I rarely see myself in the mirror making air quotes.

I am thankful for Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney, David Gates, Kyle Theriot, Will Thomas, Shun Ishikubo, and Muiris Griffin, for the absurdity of how much they’ve taught me, and how patient they’ve been with me.

I am thankful for when Petit Verdot gets ripe. Because if swampy and funky can become fragrant and floral, then beauty is forever possible.

I am thankful for every moment there is not violence.

I am thankful for funny instructions on fading paper, push-pinned to dirty corkboard, that say things like, “If  you see a mountain lion, don’t bend over,” because who bends over when they see a mountain lion? And I am thankful that this is based on a true story.

I am thankful for true stories. And made up ones as well.

I am thankful for the opportunity to read poems that were written by people who were drinking wine while they were writing.

I am thankful to Ryan Moore, because he is my boss, and he seems to kind of like me. Which really feels good.

And I am thankful that the fates and powers that blessed Ryan with a wonderful wife have now blessed him with a beautiful, wonderful child, because I am very happy for him, and it’s good to be happy for other people.

I am also happy for myself, and am thankful that I have been blessed with a wonderful wife and a beautiful, wonderful child.

I am thankful that the obvious similarities between myself and my boss obviously continue.

I am thankful for the days when my boss calls and says things like, “Have you tasted the 2007 Dynamite Hill recently?” And I say, “No.” And he says, “Can you pull a bottle and taste it, and tell me what you think?” And I say, “Yes, boss.”

I am thankful for, in no particular order: Love, and the Lack of Hate.

Also for Charlie Christian, Sonny Rollins, Bud Powell, Lester Young, Bill Evans, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Django Reinhardt, Miles Davis, Wes Montgomery, Zoot Sims, and Grant Green.

I am thankful that Duke Ellington is the Monte Bello of Jazz, and that Monte Bello is the Duke Ellington of Wine.

I am thankful for what localism teaches us about being peaceful with one another.

I am thankful that wine from our estates makes people feel peaceful.

I am thankful for peace.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for the certainty that this list will never end, and that, when confronted with all the wonderful things I’ve inadvertently omitted from this iteration of this list, I will have another opportunity at some future time to make amends.

I am thankful for ancient Mountains-and-Rivers Poetry.

I am thankful that I work on a mountain.

I am thankful to Ridge, for forever altering my life in momentous ways I could have never imagined, for, above all else, affording me the means to support my family.

I am thankful to Ridge for trusting me to speak for Ridge.

I am thankful for Merlot.

I am thankful for pine cones.

I am thankful for rattlesnakes, and the ones that don’t bite me.

I am thankful to Penske, for renting me the truck that carried me from New York to California, for helping to prove in yet one more way that Northern California is indeed the promised land, for stopping when I needed it to stop, at that truck stop where I first got on the phone with Nicole and inaugurated the process that would eventually culminate in my being hired by Ridge, and for starting again when it was time to start driving again to California.

I am thankful for my parents. And your parents.

I am thankful for anyone who buys a fine bottle of wine for their parents.

I am thankful for parents who buy Monte Bello from the birth year of their children.

I am thankful for the poetry of Dylan Thomas.

I am thankful for every moment, in every corner of the world, in which someone eats a slice of pizza, then takes a rather healthy swallow of really good wine.

I will never admit it to her, but in truth, I am thankful that my wife did not allow me to name our daughter “Pizza” as I wanted to, because even though this would guarantee I would spend my life saying, “I love you, Pizza” over and over, it wouldn’t have in fact been particularly fair to our daughter, and if there’s one thing that being a parent teaches you, it’s that love means someone else.

I am thankful for pizza.

I am thankful for pizza and wine.

I am thankful for, not Chivas Regal in a $5 room (as Tom Waits had it), but pizza and a $400 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for art, and those who mean to make it.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good day.

I am thankful you read this.

I am thankful for that which you feel thankful for.

I feel thankful for you, whoever you are.

I feel thankful.

I am thankful.

Thank you.

Tasting Notes: Assessing Possible 2013 ATP Releases

November 3, 2012

ATP Contenders …

It’s a ritual I always look very forward to; the tastings in which we consider possible release schedules for upcoming ATP wines. Why? Because I really, really, really love our ATP program. Want proof? When I was first hired by Ridge, one of the very first things I did to celebrate was to enroll my Dad in the ATP program. Because I really, really, really love our ATP wines. And now, he does too! (Plus, I really, really, really love my Dad! And, my Mom too, but she’s not much of a wine drinker …)

Anyhow, the Fall edition of this ATP tasting experience is always particularly enjoyable, as it’s generally the tasting in which we conclude by putting forth our first draft of the following year’s ATP release calendar.

The Tasters (minus moi, behind the lens …)

What this means, is that we taste a short list of ATP wines (already in bottle, but not yet released), to ascertain a) how they’re developing in the bottle, b) how soon they’ll be ready to release, and c) where on the calendar they best belong.

A number of factors go into making the decisions, but they can be deconstructed down to a pair of key considerations: a) developmental trajectory, and b) seasonality; meaning, how are they aging, and what time of year are the wines best suited for?

Paul Draper, talking ATP …

The first matter is very important when you take into consideration our approach to the ATP program. These wines are all very small-production, single-vineyard wines, and as such, they are traditionally available only through Ridge; meaning, they are not distributed. Which means there is no distributor calendar to meet. Which means we can release them when we want to. Which means, essentially, that we release them only when we feel that they are beginning to move into the first stages of their early drinkability. Meaning, we do a bit of the cellar aging for you! Which is why assessing developmental trajectory is important; we need to feel confident about how a wine is presenting, before we confirm it for a release date.

Tasting Notes …

The second consideration is vitally intertwined with the first in an important fashion, in that, unlike with some of our comparatively larger-production distribution wines — which we generally recommend laying down for a period of time — we operate under the assumption that the ATP wines are likely to be consumed reasonably close to their release date (given the extent that we hold them in our cellars first), which means that seasonality becomes quite important; as but one example, we wouldn’t be likely to release a Petite Sirah in July any more than we’d be likely to release a Chardonnay in January! Though that said, there are always exceptions …

ATP, through the drinking glass …

Anyhow, our tasting was set for November 1st, with a roster of 7 wines to assess:

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Petite Sirah

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah /Grenache

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

And here are some brief tasting notes:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Rich, slightly smoky, with a hint of sweetness, offset by a nicely subtle florality

Palate:

Bright, lifted, great acidity, medium bodyweight; compelling notes of persimmon, dried apple, and black cherry

Finish:

Taut & lean, showing a smoothening continuation of good acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Plummy, sweet, and concentrated, with hints of cocoa, caramel, and chocolate.

Palate:

A slight mentholation lifts the otherwise round, voluptuous, and decidedly zin-driven opulence; shows hints of almond extract, medium-sour cherry, and an overall decadence and unctuousness

Finish:

An emergent mix of black and white peppers invitingly complexilates the rich fruit

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Cedar and vanilla/caramel, reserved fruit, some great autumn spice, even a hint of 5-spice

Palate:

Very focused, quite muscular architecture, tannin-forward, with good acidity and dense mid-tone fruit

Finish:

Gentle, with mello acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache

Aromatics:

Dried fruit, Italian Pannetone, sandalwood, lavender and lilac, blackberry and blueberry preserves

Palate:

Smooth, balanced, integrated; great mix of fruit and spice, on the edge of decadent, but perfectly put together

Finish:

Pretty intense attack on the finish; short and wide, and an excellently reconciled expression of the fruit and spice balance

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

Aromatics:

Loads of umami; savory to the nth; good ripe fruit with a deep black core redolent of blackberry, briar, and blueberry slump

Palate:

Nicely weighty, round, fully spread across the palate, with chalky tannins, and a touch of bright cherry

Finish:

Very tannin-forward, strong architecture, deep and intense, with nice notes of black pepper and cocoa powder

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Massive amounts of fruit on the nose; powerful, ripe, strong and muscular, with intense notes of blackberry preserves

Palate:

Fairly lifted, with higher-tone fruit; red apple skin, sour cherry, and cranberry, all mixed into a very rich rendition of Dry Creek briar and bramble

Finish:

An intense combination of tannin, acid, fruit, herb, spice, etc.; meaning, lots of everything, in copious amounts. A very intense wine

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah

Aromatics:

Coffee, chicory, with an appealing duskiness comprised of, among other components, an air of burr-ground coffee beans

Palate:

Approachable, not too deep into the black, nice compendium of lo-tone fruit: black cherry and pluot in particular

Finish:

Good amount of acidity, very focused down the center of the palate, with a nice skin tannin presence lending an appealing mellowness

#Harvest2012: Final Crush

October 20, 2012

Eric Baugher & David Gates, examining the final arrivals from Sonoma …

Grapedate 10.20.12. Final Crush. Monte Bello Winery.

At the end of the day, every single decision is still driven by taste …

With today’s arrival of viognier, zinfandel, and petite sirah, we officially come to Final Crush at the Monte Bello Winery.

Uva no mas.

#Harvest2012: The Rhones Are Coming!

October 8, 2012

If you were visiting the Monte Bello Tasting Room on Sunday, and you happened to be up on our knoll at about 2pm in the afternoon, you would have gotten quite the visual treat. Looking down on the road below, you would have seen a grape truck making its way to the Monte Bello Winery carrying a delivery of Grenache and Petite Sirah from Sonoma; quite a journey, to say the least!

As to myself, I headed up to the winery just behind the grape truck, and was able to catch the fruit as it was being delivered from gondola to conveyor; first up was the Grenache …

The fruit came down from a section of the Lytton Springs Estate known as Lytton West, seen here via our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Nestled in between the East Bench Vineyards and Lytton East (where the Lytton Springs winery is located), Lytton West is a singularly weathered and uniquely diverse planting that features a fantastic mix of varietals; two acres of which are devoted to Grenache …

Here are winemakers Eric Baugher and Shun Ishikubo, patiently pitchforkin’ the fruit onto the belt …

The day’s other delivery was Petite Sirah from Geyserville …

Even from my distant vantage point high atop the gondola-laden truck bed, overlooking  David Gates (VP of Vineyard Operations), Shun Ishikubo (Assistant Winemaker), and Joshua Smith (Harvest Intern) at the belt, I could clearly see the knockout intensity of the grape color; no mistaking this fruit for anything BUT Petite Sirah!

There are over 8 acres of Petite Sirah planted at Geyserville, as can be seen here in a still image for our Aerial Vineyard Tour

Last week’s heat continues to impact the vineyards, as #Harvest2012 pushes ever-onwards, ever-faster. It’s been a decade at least since we’ve seen a year like this, an the excitement borders on overwhelming as everyone races to bring the fruit in on time.

I was in a meeting with Paul Draper this morning, and in discussing the quality of this year’s fruit, he repeatedly used the word “exceptional.” Be excited. Be very, very excited.

#Harvest2012.

Feel it.

Next Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting is 9.23.12, Confirmations To Go Out Monday!

September 9, 2012

Greetings all! Behold the skinny on that of which I wish to ensuingly speak:

What: Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting

When: Sunday, September 23rd, 1pm

Where: Ridge Vineyards/Monte Bello

That’s right, the next edition of the Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting is scheduled for Sunday, September 23rd, at 1pm, at our Monte Bello Estate, and we’re finalizing the guest list as we speak!

Confirmations are due to be sent out tomorrow, so if you’re still interested, now is the time to let us know!

If you wish to attend, please query via one of the following channels:

–Comment on this post
(or any other post of your choosing!)

–Post on our Facebook page
(http://www.facebook.com/RidgeVineyards)

–Twitter at us!
(Use #RidgeVineyards & #WineBloggersTasting)

This series has been quite a remarkable phenomenon for us. We launched it back in March 2010, and have covered a great deal of thematic ground since. We’ve hosted a dizzying array of talented writers and tasters, and hosted in a wide variety of locations.  We’ve gone toe-to-toe with Robert Parker, and waxed wine & jazz. We’ve tasted in barrel rooms and on crush pads, gone on video, and typed on vintage manual typewriters. We’ve tasted blind and double-blind, Rhones and Bordeauxs. We’ve snuck-peeked new releases, and drawn deep on the library. In short, we’ve had an amazing time.

If you happened to have attended #WBC12, you might have seen me in the company of the esteemed Ed Thralls and Sasha Kadey, co-hosting a panel entitled “The Winery View of Bloggers.” And if you were in the audience, I am hopeful that you took away, if nothing else, the realization that we at Ridge Vineyards (along with Ed and Sasha!) are devout believers when it comes to our wine blogger colleagues, and the wine blogging community.

I personally feel this tasting series to be one of our most signficant expressions of our solidarity and support, and ideally, I believe it to be a contributive mechanism as well; we’re not just supporters, we’re writers too!

As any of you who’ve attended in the past know, there is always a theme. Some examples from past editions:

– Monte Bello vertical, paralleling a Robert Parker tasting

–Winery-only Rhone-varietal wines

–Lytton Springs vertical, 1987-2009

–Acrostic Anagrams

–VerticalModelMembershipManifesto

–11-vintage Monte Bello library tasting; blind tasted

–Small-production, winery-only library wines from Lytton Estate

–Historic Vineyard Series & Vintage Manual Typewriters

–The Gospels of Paul: Wine & Jazz, Paul Draper & Paul Chambers

As to theme for this upcoming edition? A secret!

Unless the theme itself necessitates advance disclosure, the theme is not be revealed until the tasting commences.

One important thing to note; the guest list is not in fact strictly constrained to “wine bloggers” per se.

If you’re a music/food/art/philosophy/lifestyle/culture/media/literature blogger who also writes about wine, please consider yourself eligible as well!

And with that, I’ll conclude this post by extending the invitation one more time; if you’re interested in attending the September 2012 Edition of our Wine Bloggers Tasting Series, please query at your earliest convenience, as we’re hoping to send out confirmations tomorrow.

Cheers!

New Release Tasting Notes & a Live Virtual Tasting!

August 24, 2012

As we speak, the Ridge Vineyards winemakers – Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney — are engaged in a Live Virtual Tasting …

… sharing their impressions of four new releases: the 2010 Ponzo Vineyards Zinfandel, the 2010 Lytton Springs, the 2010 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah, and the 2009 Monte Bello.

This is something we do with our wholesale community twice a year; around the Spring and Fall Release cycle. For more information about this very unique event, please click the link below:

http://www.ridgewine.com/News/Default.aspx?cat=Trade&

And to review my tasting notes from this morning’s wine preparations, please read on!

 

2010 Ridge Vineyards Ponzo Zinfandel

Sprightly bright and fresh on the nose; summertime-ripe and playful. Lifted, lambent, and luscious at front-of-palate, with sprigs of sparking acidity flashing down the middle. Short and aphoristic on the finish, with a lingeringly mouthwatering saporousness. In short; delightful as a summer dress flapping in the sun, delightful as bluegrass by a lakeside picnic, delightful as evening rain.

 

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs

A mammalian sensuality drenches the aromatics with a near-feral eroticism, taunting the palate’s yearning concupiscence with its promise. The entry is crisp, linear, and forceful; no mysterious withholding here; the muscularity of its embrace is delineated with a sculptedly structured choreography and architecture. The voice blackens as the fruit develops, from authoritative and focused to a low throaty back-of-throat purr. One of the more savagely charismatic  Lytton Springs offerings in years, this is a wine that will pursue your sensorial memories many ensuing evenings.

 

2010 Ridge VineyardsLytton Estate Petite Sirah

Le Vin Noir. This is Bogey in his office, gravitas in vintage black and white. Curls of smoke twining through an atmosphere heavy with the constantly enacted reconciliation of faith and cynicism. This is a philosopher’s wine; a philosopher of the streets, from the streets, for the streets. This is smoke and tar and mystery; the low keys on the piano; the low shots of clicking hills on mist-cloaked cobblestones. This is a wine of conviction, for a drinker of conviction. This is for those who take their fruit black, their tannins firm, and their meals hearty.

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

A volume of poetry one comes back to year after year after year; dog-eared pages turned to again and again; shared with friends, bequeathed to children, unearthed in trunks. This is the timelessness of language in liquid form. In its astonishing panoply of components — earth, spice, fruit, herbality, root, mineral — one finds metaphor for the spectrum of human feeling: love, hope, faith, spirit, soul. But this is not a poetry of obfuscation or irony, not a poem of internality, this is language as giver of new life; a poetry of passion and inclusion. This is the folk wisdom of Ted Kooser and the living, breeding, scalding honesty of Sharon Olds; this is the impassioned ignition of Amiri Baraka and the natural-life return of Mary Oliver; this is the jazz of William Matthews and the pathos of Wislawa Szymborska; the dignity and heartbreak of Hsu Chao and the quiet elevation of Han-Shan. This is a fascinating wine in every sense and stretch of the word.

 

 

An Early Tasting Of The New Fall Releases: Lytton Springs, Ponzo, Pagani Ranch & Monte Bello …

August 7, 2012

This time of year is both exciting and bemusing; ripe with anticipation, and fraught with perplexation. The new Fall Releases are on their way, and we’re beginning to taste them with some degree of regularity. But we don’t really know them yet, whereas their precursors are near-woven into the veritable chains of our collective palate DNAs. Meaning, give me a 2009 Lytton Springs, and I’m like a mood ring wrapped around its finger; I know if it’s happy, or if it’s sad; if it’s excited, tired, or bored; if it’s loving or detached. But the 2010 is still a stranger to me. I watch it’s face; was that a smirk or a smile? Is it teasing me, or did it mean that? Am I boring it? Is it listening to me? What is it trying to tell me? I left a message, why won’t it call me back? Wow, it held my hand!? Should I try and kiss it? And so on …

So, yesterday, I had a chance to taste them again; the new Fall Releases. The 2010 Lytton Springs, the 2010 Ponzo, the 2010 Pagani Ranch, and the 2009 Monte Bello. And I wrote tasting notes, for no other reason than to give me something to compare against when, six months down the line, I’ve established some rapport. Then I can look back, and review my initial impressions. It’s like reading the letters you wrote your soon-to-be-fiancee back when you were still courting. Sure, some of the initial giddy euphoria will have worn off, but in its place will be a maturing love that rests on a far sturdier rock.

And with that in mind, I present my giddy love notes. And giddy they are, and in love I am. Full disclaimer, I am really loving these releases. I know, I know, puppy love and mash notes. But still, I’m in love!

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs

I’m looking at the varietal spread, and I’m smiling already: 67 zin, 23 petite sirah, 7 carignane, 3 mataro. That’s a mix after my own heart. Let the tasting begin!

Beautiful dark hues in the bowl; rich purple, dense magenta, penetrating garnet, with a gorgeous ruby limn lifted by dark fuchsia highlights … Interesting structure to the legs; they’re fairly thick and viscous, but they run down fairly quickly …

Very strong boysenberry and blackberry notes to the nose, with a hint of cranberry, toast, brioche, and caramel balanced against some higher-toned strawberry and raspberry aromas, which are somewhat uniquely wrapped up in an interlacing of crème de menthe tones …

Mouthfeel is big and plush and full and instantly Dry Creek in character; brambly and spicy and racy and rich and flavorful and strong and eminently delicious. The low-tone black-fruit presence of the petite sirah comes on pretty strong, and those grippy tannins hang on well into the finish …

The finish is still a tad taut at this young age, and the carignane and mataro don’t seem to be making much of a play for sensorial attention yet, but the wine’s already complex opulence should mean that things will only continue to get more interesting …

Even without the singular challenges of the 2010 vintage, this would be an astonishingly self-possessed, ebullient, focused, and powerful wine. That it emerged from such demanding conditions makes this offering all the more impressive.

2010 Ridge Vineyards Ponzo Zinfandel

I am always excited about any Ponzo that emerges from a cooler growing season, as the 2010 does; the Russian River location of this wonderful old-vine property seems naturally to play into the cooler-climate model, and when Ponzo really sings, it does so when it can display in full flower its freshness, its brightness, its enervative and evocative playfulness and sophistication …

Running all points along the plum-tone spectrum, the wine is just plain pretty in the bowl, and the quickly-slip-sliding legs bespeak all the elegance I’m hoping for upon tasting …

The nose is exotic to the point of surprise at first sniff; hard to place the almost unsettlingly beguiling mix of spices on offer; what are these aromas? It’s almost a curry profile, full of multi-shaded peppers, herbs, and ground spices. I’m completely entranced, and utterly confused … Digging deeper into the bouquet, I can definitely find the red and black cherries I would expect to be present, as well as some sweet vanilla and oak, and even a touch of chocolatey herbaceousness …

A light but still decadent mouthfeel that manages to be both refined and tarty; a sort of quiet sentimentality is on offer here; hints of a deep well of emotion corseted in elegantly teasing outer layers …

The acidity and high-tone fruit are the selling points here; this is a light and lifted offering that still manages to deliver the joyful decadence of proper zinfandel; cool-climate perfect, Russian River delicious.

2010 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch Zinfandel

Ah, the Alicante Bouschet. 16% with this vintage. I am happy.

Notably dark in the bowl, it is almost impenetrably purple-black at the core, working its way outward concentrically through hoops of barely lightening hues, finally finishing at a limn of glistening magenta …

The aromatics are every bit as distinctive as one would expect with a Pagani offering; good lord, what all am I smelling in here? On one side: bark, chicory, pipe tobacco, and mint chocolate ice cream; on the other side: potpourri, sesame cucumber salad, sesame seed and seaweed, pomegranate, and cardamom. Good lord …

Right down the pipe with this one; not a great deal of in-the-cheek activity, but a great dose of both fruit and acidity instantly going slip-sliding down center palate; mostly red-fruit in character, with a hint of tartness, some utterly quenching tannin architecture, and a nice dose of blood-orange/ruby grapefruit citricity near the back end of the palate trip …

The finish is actually slightly sweet, and the mouthfeel rounds out considerably at the close. A very interesting reconciliation of an overall smaller feel with a firmer architectural touch, this 2010 Pagani enacts a bit of an inversion of sorts, in that it speaks loudly, but wields a smaller stick …

Put another way, it packs a lot of complexity, finesse, and incomparability into a streamlined and eminently potable package, with an absoutely archetypical mix of entrancing spices in the bouquet topping off the profile.

2009 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

A varietal trio shapes this vintage — Cab/Merlot/PetitVerdot. To date, the 2009 edition of Monte Bello has (in internal tastings) already shown itself to be one of those true “crowd pleaser” versions of itself; if the spectrum that Monte Bello can run goes from the very rustic, earthy, spicy, acidity-driven and herbaceous, to the very rich, lush, succulent, concentrated and fruit-driven, then this definitely skews to the latter; meaning, it is beyond generous with its bounty, and accordingly, it’s a wine you want to spend a great deal of time with. Literally, it pleases the crowd; any crowd, every crowd, with pleasure …

Purpley, plush, and blackly dense in the bowl, with a lovely magenta halo and thin but purposeful legs …

Aromatics rich with cherries sweet and sour, loads of cocoa, coffee, and cedar, and a healthy dose of minty eucalyptality …

Expansive, eruptive, and seductive on the palate, there is literally almost too much information here for one mouth to handle; there is everything from the highest-tone fruit and the brightest acidity, to the lowest-tone earth and the blackest of herbs. This is, quite literally, a mouthful. A mouthful of mouthfeel.

Our Liquid Of Ritual

August 6, 2012

Oh, the things wine has seen!

You can really find yourself getting quite emotional thinking about it, if you just let it happen.

On the other hand, it’s also quite easy to fall into the other trap; you’re a maker of wine, you put your heart and soul into it, it’s of the land, the people, it has a story. But at the end of the day, it’s just another product, fighting for space — and profit — in a competitive marketplace. This one gets a high-number rating, that one doesn’t, this one gets on this restaurant’s list, that one doesn’t, there are holiday bonuses for these staffers, none for those; this one re-invests, that one goes back to the drawing board. At the end of the day, the spreadsheet calls the tune, and everybody dances.

But then again, sometimes life gives you one of those amazing zen awareness slaps, and you suddenly see things differently. Suddenly you realize that what you’re doing IS special, that it IS meaningful, that there IS a point.

Sometimes, the simple act of selling a bottle of wine can become an invitation to beauty; an invitation to take one’s place in the pages of someone’s beautiful story.

Our liquid of ritual.

It was 1992, and it was time to harvest the fruit from the York Creek vineyards. The grapes were perfect; perfectly ripe –ideal sugar levels – and everything came in on time; early October. But no one handling the fruit that day had any idea.

Fast forward to June of 1994. Paul Draper is sitting at his desk, with a #2 pencil and lined yellow pad of legal paper. His singular left-leaning script is spider-webbing across the page as he ruminates on the wine. The final line of text that he commits to that day is an estimate of “10-15 years” of further development. At the moment he writes these numbers, he has no idea.

Fast forward to 2002. Paul’s estimate is 8 years in, the 1992 vintage is, for all intents and purposes, long sold-out; 1999 is the current release now. No one knows how the 1992 is showing. No one has any idea. But someone buys a bottle, via a rare and limited library offering. They buy it, but they have no idea.

Fast forward to 2009. Mike Boyer has been cellaring his bottle of 1992 York Creek Petite Sirah for a long time. Paul’s 15 years are up. But Mike doesn’t open the wine. The bottle stays in his cellar. He has no idea.

Fast forward to July 30th, 2012. At about 4pm, I read the following e-mail:

“Dear Ridge Winemakers and Staff,

I just wanted to write to say thank you – yet again – for another amazing bottle of Ridge wine.

Last Thursday evening, my wife and I opened a bottle of 1992 York Creek petite sirah to celebrate the birth of our second child, a baby girl. I had purchased the wine at your tasting room about 10 years ago through your library tasting program and had been cellaring it for quite a while now. I knew it was special when I tasted it back then. And now, wow!

There is just one word fit to describe this 20-year-old wine: awesome. All of the edge had come off this beauty and what was left was smooth black and blue fruits with a silky finish. Incredible. Never have I tasted a petite sirah like it.

Thanks to everyone at Ridge for making a special occasion even more special. We love you guys!”

Now THAT … is reason to make good wine.

And when the cork came out of that bottle, a beautiful petite sirah was but one thing that flowed out; with it came the lives of everyone who brought that wine to life.

And on behalf of all at Ridge, we say congratulations to Mike and Holly Boyer!

Thank you Mike and Holly, for inviting us into your beautiful lives and your beautiful story; we could not be more honored.

Spreadsheet be damned, there’s a new little girl in the world!

Making a special occasion more special?

THAT … is the idea.

The Academy of Saint Ridge in the Fields

August 3, 2012

Vineyard people are funny. They have very unique senses of humor.

Some people send you an e-mail with the word “funny” in the subject line, and you open it, and you get a picture of a kitty with an uzi (a Kuzi?).

Not really that funny.

More the sort of thing you’d find taped to a wall in the back room of a doctor’s office. Taped up with an old piece of scotch tape. An old piece of scotch tape that has a sad strand of secretarial hair trapped under it.

But then you get e-mails with subject lines like “Inversion Layers are Funny.”

Take today, for example. Today, I got an e-mail from vineyard people. And the subject line was “Inversion Layers are Funny.” That’s vineyard people humor.

Today’s e-mail was from William The Conqueror Thomas, our Viticulturist at Lytton Springs.

He was on an early morning sojourn up Spring Mountain, to the York Creek vineyards. The Burger Knoll, specifically, which is adjacent to where our Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah comes from. At the base of the hill, the temperature was 54 degrees. And it was foggy. Up at the knoll? 84 degrees. At 8:15am.

Now THAT’S funny. Vineyard people funny.

Inversion Layers are Funny.

For those who may be unaware of the term, “inversion” in this case is a deviational atmospheric occurrence in which cooler air is held to lower altitudes, with heat rising with height. In a “traditional” climatic environment, the lower region, near the earth’s surface, is warmer than the air above it, because it’s being heated from below, courtesy of the sun’s radiation warming the Earth’s surface, which in turn then warms the layer right above it. This happens via a process called convective heat transfer. However, in an inversion, this model is “inverted,” such that heat increases with altitude, leaving the lower layer as the colder by comparison. In Northern California, this phenomenon occurs courtesy of coastal ocean upwelling, an oceanographic phenomenon which essentially drops a warmer layer on top of the cooler layer. Probably the most notable visual cue that all this is happening is the fog layer; this is essentially the bifurcation point between the lower and upper layers. You can see it in the photo above quite clearly.

We get a pretty dramatic version of the inversion here at Monte Bello as well. For those of you who’ve picnicked here before, you might recognize this scene:

Monte Bello Fog: Before

Though by the time you arrived, things probably looked more like this:

Monte Bello Fog: After

And that, is Vineyard People Funny.


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