Archive for the ‘Carignane’ Category

A Mazzoni Island of the Mind ~or~ First Friday at Monte Bello!

May 3, 2013

Greetings!

It’s May 3rd, and it’s First Friday at Monte Bello!

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For our May edition of this very special monthly event, we will be celebrating the release of the new 2009 Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel! The 2009 is one of the most notably zinfandel-forward Mazzoni offerings in recent years, and while it shows all the compact rusticity and culinarily companionable spice and acidity we’ve come to expect from this old-vine vineyard, it does so in a comparatively lusher, more fruit-driven fashion, and as such, is already showing beautifully with just two years in the bottle.

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And dig this!

We’ll be pouring the 2009 in a two-vintage vertical with its predecessor, the 2008 Mazzoni!

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This is the last chance we’ll have the ’08 on hand as a current release, making this an especially rarefied tasting opportunity.

Making today, a good day to be a member.

So remember, if you’re a member, remember:

First Friday!

~

First Friday at Monte Bello
Date: 5/3/2013

May 3rd ~ 4-7pm

Please join us on the first Friday of each month for an evening affair of delicious wines and small bites. While this is a Member Event, we are more than happy to host guests of our members as well! We’ll have some delicious small bites on offer for your enjoyment.

Members with shipments available for pick up at this event:
ATP – Monthly
ATP – Consolidated
(be sure to note that you are picking up on your RSVP)

Eventbrite - First Friday at Monte Bello - May 2013

~

For a bit of history on the Mazzoni Home Ranch:

zmz

a VERY rare & cool vertical for next week’s First Friday event!

January 26, 2013

First Friday.

One of my favorite recurring events here at Monte Bello.

It’s just so EASY! When is it? First Friday! Simple …

And it’s just so delicious!

There’s always a theme. A delicious theme. A delicious wine theme. The most delicious of the themes. The wine theme.

Often, it revolves around a new release. The release is the theme. Be the theme, release. Be the theme.

For February, the theme is the release. The release is the Carmichael. The Carmichael is the release. The release is the theme. The Carmichael is the theme.

What is the Carmichael? The Carmichael is the 2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel. And it is the new ATP Release.

ATP

And the February First Friday (Ah, the 3 Fs!) will be the debut. Meaning that February First Friday attendees will be among the VERY FIRST to try this VERY ANTICIPATED new release.

And to celebrate this new release, we’ll be sharing with our guests a very special and very rare three-vintage vertical of the Carmichael, with the new 2010 vintage being accompanied by 2007 and 2009 vintages as well!

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This is, hopefully needless to say, a quite lovely tasting opportunity (remind me to tell you a great story sometime about Paul Draper and the word “lovely”!), and we sincerely hope you can join us for the experience.

There are two requirements to attend First Friday:

1. You must be able to come to our Monte Bello Estate on Friday, February 1st, between 4pm and 7pm, as that’s the where and the when of the event.

2. You must be a member of our Wine Club (attendance is not branch-specific; members of ATP, Zlist, and Collector are all welcome!), or a guest of a member.

And that’s it!

The “official” language:

First Friday at Monte Bello
Date: 2/1/2013

February 1st~ 4-7pm

Please join us for the February edition of First Friday at our Monte Bello Estate!

In celebration of the new 2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel release, we will be showing a special three-vintage vertical of the Carmichael, plus our new 2011 Mikulaco Chardonnay!

We’ll have some delicious small bites on offer as well, and remember, while this is a Member Event, we are more than happy to host guests of our members too!

Regarding membership, please click here for general information, and for specific details about the ATP, please click here.

Regarding the Carmichael Zinfandel, please click here for detailed information on the new release, and please read on for today’s tasting notes!

2007 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

Appearance (AP): mature hues; dark & serious plum & crimson, with a pale salmon halo. A somewhat adhesive glaze in the bowl, with thinnish legs that are still quite slow-moving …

Aromatics (AR): smoky, savory aromas, with hints of warm & salty baked pretzel wheat, matched against lo-tone root and chicory on one end, and dried stone fruit on the other. Additional layers of pemmican and jerky tones add to the savoriness, while traces of pine cone and bramble lend some fresh forestation …

Mouthfeel & Palate (MFP): still very plush mouthfeel, excellently juice-forward fruit, with tremendous acidity for a zinfandel with some age on it; def. shows some secondary tobacco and dried autumnal fruit character, and the savoriness carries over into the mid-palate …

Finish (F): long, forceful, and warming …

Summary: With an estimate of 4-5 years of development made by the winemakers back in late 2008, this wine is holding on even better than expected; secondary character is emerging, but great acidity enlivens the profile …

2009 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

AP: very plummy hues, with a lovely ruby limn. Easy glaze in the glass, with fairly rapid legs that are somewhat thicker-torsoed …

AR: mouth-watering aromas of lemon curd and caramel matched against Spanish cured ham, with an under layer of stone fruit skin; apricot in particular …

MFP: very plush on the palate, thicker even than might be foreshadowed by the aromatics; sweet, lush fruit, with a fresh, summery decadence redolent of watermelon flesh and strawberry juice …

F: clean, focused, with tannins in emergence …

Summary: a very fruit-forward and sensuous rendition of the Carmichael …

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

AP: strong, crisp and lively garnet, with a perfect ruby halo. Easy viscosity, with relatively thin and swift legs …

AR: Remarkably bright and “up” aromatics; strong on citrus notes: ruby grapefruit and key lime pie particularly, all riding on top of classically herbal Alexander Valley zinfandel traits; rich fruit woven through with subtle threads of peppercorn and tobacco …

MFP: Great acidity; very fresh! Very high tone character, loads of fruit, though still wrapped in a pretty youthful structure; carignane feels particularly forward at this young stage …

F: Still tightish & lightish; will benefit greatly from double decanting, but very clean, very precise, and very pure …

Summary: A young showing for what looks to be a tremendous Carmichael vintage …

Announcing the 2012 Ridge Vineyards Wine of the Year!

December 28, 2012

I cannot help myself; I’m in the Year-End-List spirit. I MUST make my Best-Ofs …

And for today’s canonically contributive endeavour, I am going to grapple into submission a task never yet set; I am going to attempt to name my Top Five Favorite Ridge Releases of the Year, and then from that, name My Number One Best New Ridge Wine Release of 2012!

Some things to consider:

–Flavor? Put simply, which wine tasted the best?

–Impact? Which release generated the most excitement/activity/buzz? Reviews, Sales, etc.

–The Most Improved Factor? Which wine ran against predictions, and emerged as an unexpected player?

–The Shock and Awe? Which wine just flat-out strafed the viticultural landscape with its awesome power?

–The Surprise? Which wine came seemingly out of nowhere to wow us all?

–Price Break to Quality vs. Overall Dynomiteness? Do you pick the best PBTQ offering, or simply the “best” wine? And are they in fact one and the same?

–Scale? Do  you vote in favor of cross-platform pleasingness, or niche-anchored exceptionalism?

And so forth and so on.

It is also very important to consider context; meaning, given that each wine has its own self-actualizing, self-realizing, self-completing parameters within which it can be judged, one has to find a way to balance contextual success vs. global success. 

For example, how do you handle/reconcile/balance the following: Monte Bello vs. Itself, and Geyserville vs. Itself,  versus Monte Bello vs. Geyserville?

Put another way, is it fair to compare apples and oranges? Do you compare apples only to other apples, and oranges only to other oranges? Or do you simply name the best fruit of all?

For example, the 2009 Monte Bello received 97 points from the International Wine Report, the Lytton Springs received 93 points. So which is the better wine?

And so forth and so on.

So, to begin, let’s first look at what was released in 2012:

  • 2009 Monte Bello
  • 2009 Estate Cabernet
  • 2009 Estate Merlot
  • 2010 Estate Chardonnay
  • 2010 Three Valleys
  • 2010 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah
  • 2010 Geyserville
  • 2010 Lytton Springs
  • 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel
  • 2010 East Bench Zinfandel
  • 2010 Pagani Ranch Zinfandel
  • 2010 Ponzo Zinfandel
  • 2009 Jimsomare Zinfandel
  • 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache
  • 2009 Old School Zinfandel
  • 2007 Lytton Estate Syrah
  • 2009 Carmichael Zinfandel
  • 2010 Buchignani Ranch Carignane
  • 2009 Lytton Estate Zinfandel
  • 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel
  • 2008 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache
  • 2010 Dusi Ranch Zinfandel

Ok, wow. That’s a lot of wine. 22 wines. Yikes. But that’s ok. I can do this.

But before I do this, let me announce unequivocally that there ain’t a dud in the bunch. That may sound like I’m playing it safe, and/or offering the party line. But it’s actually true. This was a VERY good year for our wine releases. So just because a wine doesn’t make my Top 5, doesn’t mean it ain’t groovy. It is.

But the algorithm is a complex one, and it incorporates many, many, many factors.

The algorithm. Formula 4488.

 Algorithm4488

 I’ve fed all the information in. All the customer compliments, all the point scores, all the sales histories, all the tasting notes, literally ALL the relevant data. Into the 4488 algorithm machine (see above). And the machine has churned, and smoked, and labored, and cycled, and processed, and processed, and processed. All the hanging chads have been un-hung, all the handwriting has been analyzed, all the recounts have been recounted. And the first results are in. What follows are my Top Five Ridge Wine Releases of 2012! In no particular order:

  • 2010 Lytton Springs Zinfandel
  • 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel
  • 2010 Buchignani Ranch Carignane
  • 2009 Monte Bello
  • 2009 Estate Cabernet

There. It is written.

And of course, as soon as it is written, I have regrets. How could I have left off …?

But alas, one must narrow down. The Best Ofs are calling.

So these are it. The Five.

There are many, many, many things to recommend each of these selections. The astonishing price-break-to-quality performance of the Estate Cabernet. The ratings and reviews frenzy around the 2009 Monte Bello. The cult fascination with the Carignane. The sleeper success of the Paso Robles. The canon re-defining 2010 Lytton Springs. They’re all exceptional wines.

But in the end, by the totally arbitrary standards of the Best Ofs and the Top Fives, there can only be one. One wine that stands above the rest as The 2012 Ridge Wine Release Of The Year.

The 2012 Ridge Wine Release Of The Year is …

Drum roll

The 2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs!

Put simply, this is an amazing offering, and it hits on every single cylinder possible. Consider the factors we looked at above:

–Flavor? This wine tastes flat-out incredible. It’s beautiful and complex and fun and sensual and inviting and delicious and delicious.

–Impact? One of the best-selling vintages of Lytton Springs ever, and certainly one of the best reviewed as well.

–The Most Improved Factor? Admittedly, this is a canon that’s hard to improve on — Lytton Springs has been a tremendous wine for decades — but it’s certain the 2010 will go down as one of the truly great vintages.

–The Shock and Awe? The Lytton Springs was a force. No question about it. It was omnipresent. Ubiquitous.

–The Surprise? As anyone who follows Northern California viticulture knows, 2010 was a DIFFICULT vintage. That this wine should be so good under these circumstances is all the more impressive.

–Price Break to Quality vs. Overall Dynomiteness? Do you pick the best PBTQ offering, or simply the “best” wine? And are they in fact one and the same? In this case, they’re one and the same.

–Scale? While the Lytton Springs is one of our largest productions, it still seems at times to be the red-haired stepchild to the Geyserville, and as such, this wine manages to achieve worldwide appeal while still appealing to the culties.

In short, this is a hell of a wine.

And with that I say, congratulations to all our releases! Together, they have made for a tremendous 2012′s worth of wines.

And then I say, congratulations to our Top Five Wines of 2012. You are truly wondrous things.

And finally I say, congratulations to the First Annual “4488: A Ridge Blog” Ridge Wine Release of the Year, the 2010 Lytton Springs!

You may take your place in the canon.

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 22, 2012

I am an admittedly idiosyncratic traditionalist, in that I am rarely much for traditional traditions, but am conversely rather boffo for my own rather less-than-traditional iterations thereof; which makes it all the more of a personal revolution in the offing that I am posting these words today.

This is, of course, the rambling preambling to the preamble of my annual “Things I’m Thankful For” post; which I traditionally, per the terms of my own tradition, post on the 23rd of November. Which I was dead on track for doing again this year. Except here it is, Thanksgiving, and I’m feeling all thankful-laden, and it simply feels odd not to commit these lines to the blog-o-web on this most gratitudinous of days. Yet it’s the 22nd, a proposition that defies convention. But blast it all, tradition be damned, what? On with the show! Pip Pip!

When I ponder the word Thankful, I see my wife’s face. As I do when I ponder the other following words:

Fortunate, Blessed, and Grateful.

These are of course self-referential. When I simply ponder her, as opposed to how I feel when I consider the blessing upon me that is she, these then are some of the words that come to mind:

Wise, Beautiful, Magical, Powerful, Amazing, Fragile, Astounding, Tender, Perfect, and Love.

I am so thankful for my wife. My friend, my lover, my partner, my wife. I am so thankful for my wife. One can define the almighty in whatever ways one wishes, of course; but if the definition of God has something to do with that which gives life to life, that which governs all, that foundational being that is the alpha and omega of all things, then she has dominion over all my world. She is the Bodhisattva come to help me, the Savior come to save me, the God come to raise me. I am so thankful for my wife.

And I am so thankful for my daughter, before whom I am a positively helpless puddle of mush. What hasn’t this small, beautiful creature given to me? There is no shade of blue in the sky, no streak of green in the sea, that she has not alerted me to. No whisper of wind in the night, no chirp of bird in the day, that she has not called my ears toward. There is no tear duct in my eye she has not drained of its feeling, no cavity of my heart that she has not filled. What hue of autumn leaf, what scent of springtime blossom, has she not drawn me to? What a thing, to have a daughter! I am so thankful for my daughter.

For my wife, and my daughter, I am so thankful. A Love Supreme.

Which reminds me that I am also distinctly grateful for John Coltrane.

And wine glass sizes drawn in fractions. Like 19.75 oz. glasses.

And the wines that inhabit them.

Like, perhaps, the 1981 Monte Bello, which tasted so fine just this past Sunday.

Which would also taste so fine in, for example, a flat-bottom glass.

I am so thankful for people who drink red wine from flat-bottom glasses.

And grandparents. There is no insanity like the insanity of grandparents. That my little family of three – Papa Bear, Mama Bear, Baby Bear – has two hearty and hale sets of grandparents, is a blessing beyond compare. To watch our little girl in their blissful company is a gift unimaginable. I am so thankful for our parents; grandparents to our wonderful daughter. I am so thankful for this.

As I am for the knoll at Monte Bello. Such a place to stand and contemplate the void, to be temporarily one with the ancestors staring at the walls and seeing truth.

I am thankful for poetry, and the wines that have, through time, lubricated its fragile and complex gears.

Like, for example, the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel, which tasted so fine just … yesterday.

There are few moments greater than the moment when your father and your wife bring to their respective lips the wine you have poured for them. I am thankful for these moments.

I am thankful for Haiku.

I am thankful for people who do not ask me to throw away their chewing gum upon their arrival at the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

In fact, I am thankful for people who do not chew gum.

I am thankful for wooden canes, and limping through vine rows relying on one.

I am thankful for Amy Monroe, Sam Howles-Banerji, and Kirsten Anderson. If you’ve ever come to Monte Bello, and accordingly felt a bit of magic enter your soul and there take up permanent residence, there to be called upon whenever your worry and care threaten to overwhelm you in the pursuit of your conventional happinesses, it is likely because you were moved by Amy and/or Sam and/or Kirsten. They are in the practice of providing memories that will last forever, and they are rather excellent at this endeavor. They have given me so much to be thankful for, and are to me canonical saints in the pantheon of Monte Bello magic.

I am thankful for the word canonical.

And the word Vertical. And the thing that is, in winespeak, a Vertical.

And the Estate Cabernet Vertical, which will not be available for much longer. I am thankful it is still available, because the 2004 Estate Cabernet, is, in particular, one of the best wines I’ve ever had. It was also one of my first loves upon joining the family at Ridge, and in it, I taste my good fortune.

I am thankful for P.G. Wodehouse, for having given to the world Jeeves and Bertie Wooster, of whose exploits with the cow-creamer, last night, were so delightful to read.

I am thankful that I do not believe in decent-tasting “entry-level” wines costing $10/bottle, any more than I believe in decent-sounding “entry-level” Telecasters costing $100.

I am thankful for windows that lock and unlock with ease.

I am thankful for wines that taste especially fine whilst standing at windows gazing out at trees in autumn. Like the 1992 Monte Bello, which, out of a 375ml bottle, tastes especially fine whilst standing at a window (open or closed, whatever, it’s easy to lock and unlock) gazing out at a tree in autumn.

I am thankful for candles.

I am thankful for bow-ties, which, perhaps come the New Year, I shall resolve to wear more of.

I am thankful for champys, and the people who use the term.

And for the people who drink champys.

I am thankful for champys.

And Bodhisattvas.

I am thankful that Ridge has found a place in its heart to place me.

I am thankful that, in lieu of a manpurse, I wear sportcoats.

I am thankful for everyone who comes to Monte Bello in the summertime, and doesn’t comment of the fact that I am wearing a sportcoat.

I am thankful for Aaron, Antonio, Barry, Emma, Jane, Jenny, Karen, Kathryn, Kim, Lori, Michael, Nancy, Peter, Samantha, Sonja, and Tara. Because Hospitality is holy, and they are the true keepers of the faith. The foundational saints. The canonical hosts. To truly “host” a guest is an essential act of love, compassion, empathy, sympathy, faith, and kindness. I am thankful for these wonderful human beings, and for the generosity of spirit they so consistently offer.

I am thankful for the XTC song “Dear God.”

I am thankful that the new 2008 Mazzoni Home Ranch is such an absolutely excellent contribution to the Mazzoni canon.

I am thankful for high-quality buff cloths, and the wine hosts that know how to use them.

I am thankful for ritual, and what it teaches us, and I am thankful that the world of wine is so ritualized.

I am thankful for people who, when confronted by those who know a bit more than themselves about something, think first, “Wonderful!” as opposed to “Snob!”

I am thankful that I know so little, because I look so forward to learning.

I am thankful that a great deal of my “work” at Ridge is “learning” more about wine.

Learning more about, for example, the 2007 Monte Bello. For reasons soon to be revealed!

I am thankful for things that are soon to be revealed, as I do not enjoy surprises or secrets, though I am thankful for them. Thankful that they offer the opportunity for revelation.

I am thankful for Son House.

I am thankful for anyone who can figure out a way to work wine into a tattoo without looking like a rather foolish sort.

I am thankful for Syrah co-fermented with Viognier.

I am thankful that part of my “job” at Ridge involves sitting at table with people like Kathy and Ingrid, and “working” on food & wine pairings.

I am thankful that I very often have occasion, while at work at Ridge, to deploy the term “culinarily companionable.”

I am thankful that I get to write this blog. Not only is it a still-very-overwhelming honor, but it also allows me to make up a great many words; a great many made-up words that, when discovered and subsequently called out as being made-up, become the springboard for me to deliver my patented lecture on the true value of language and its purposes. Which no one needs to hear anymore.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for trumpet mutes, and the jazz players who deploy them.

I am thankful that Ridge makes wine like Thelonious Monk made chords.

I am thankful that Sumano’s bakery makes Watsonville Sourdough.

I am thankful for drinking wine, eating bread and cheese, and riding ferries.

I am thankful that Bellwether Farms makes San Andreas. And I am thankful for being able to taste it while sipping on 1978 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for harvest videos, and the opportunity to make them.

I am thankful for #Harvest2012.

I am thankful that I do not dream in hashtags.

I am thankful that if one Googles “Generation X Characteristics,” the very first entry that appears lists the following:

• Cynical

• Skeptical

• Independent

• Problem-solvers/resourceful

• Defy Authority

• Reality driven

• Distaste “touchy feely”

• Technology Competent

• Resist Hierarchy

• Multitasker

I am thankful that I still manage to rarely use the word “Google” as a verb.

I am thankful for walking cities.

I feel thankful when I go walking in a city, and the person I am walking with says, “My, that looks like a nice wine shop!”

I am thankful for Christopher Robin, Winnie the Pooh, and all the denizens of the Hundred-Acre Wood.

I am thankful for the poet Sharon Olds, because she writes about woman things in ways that can truly move a man.

I am thankful that as soon as we were installed in our little post-birth “hotel” at the hospital, my very exhausted and triumphantly beautiful wife called for Cava and Monte Bello.

I am thankful that when my wife calls for champys, she calls for Coupe glasses.

I am thankful for coupe glasses.

I am thankful for trains.

I am thankful for movies made before 1970.

I am thankful for music made before 1980.

I am thankful for wine made before 1990.

I am thankful for balsamic vinegar made before 2000.

I am thankful for books made before 2010.

I am thankful for wonderful exceptions to the above.

I am thankful for wine poured before I wrote “I am thankful for wine poured …,” like, for example, any of our Syrah/Grenache blends.

I am currently thankful for the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache, and I am previously grateful for all the other vintages.

I am thankful that my daughter just announced that her Grandpa “stinks like Thanksgiving.”

I am thankful that some people still roller skate.

I am thankful for limousine drivers that do not park in spaces reserved for the disabled.

I am thankful for wine drinkers that are not drunkards.

I am thankful that calm, clear-headed, self-possessed, serious, alert, concerned, cool, exacting, rigorous, thoughtful, vigilant, and pure are all synonyms for “sober.”

I am thankful that, while it’s today in the news that it’s going to happen, Nikki Sixx’s “Heroin Diaries” is not yet, in fact, a Broadway Musical.

I am thankful that, for the fourth year in a row, I have the opportunity to praise Haig’s Hummus. I am thankful for Haig’s Hummus. And I am thankful for the way Haig’s Hummus tastes when it’s in your mouth, wrapped up in a big balloon-size swallow of Ridge chardonnay.

I am thankful for Ridge Chardonnay. Especially the 2010 Monte Bello Chardonnay, which, when released, will F%*&KIN blow your mind.

I am thankful for %*&.

I am thankful that we have a President who likes wine.

I am thankful for Zen.

I am thankful for the Monterey Bay, and how it makes Carignane taste. Especially Ridge Carignane. Which always tastes so nice, but tastes especially nice when sipped next to Monterey Bay.

I am thankful for John Olney, and I am thankful for the Carignane that he makes.

I am thankful for everyone at Lytton Springs, and for the opportunity to make this appreciation public. I am especially thankful for my counterpart Sandy Johnson, because her greatness humbles me daily, and it is good to be humbled. And I am thankful for her friendship, because it is good to have friends. And I am thankful for her colleagues that I get to, albeit infrequently, work with, namely Jason and Eliot. I wish I got to see them more, because I am always thankful for the opportunity. And it’s good to be thankful.

I am thankful that I rarely see myself in the mirror making air quotes.

I am thankful for Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, John Olney, David Gates, Kyle Theriot, Will Thomas, Shun Ishikubo, and Muiris Griffin, for the absurdity of how much they’ve taught me, and how patient they’ve been with me.

I am thankful for when Petit Verdot gets ripe. Because if swampy and funky can become fragrant and floral, then beauty is forever possible.

I am thankful for every moment there is not violence.

I am thankful for funny instructions on fading paper, push-pinned to dirty corkboard, that say things like, “If  you see a mountain lion, don’t bend over,” because who bends over when they see a mountain lion? And I am thankful that this is based on a true story.

I am thankful for true stories. And made up ones as well.

I am thankful for the opportunity to read poems that were written by people who were drinking wine while they were writing.

I am thankful to Ryan Moore, because he is my boss, and he seems to kind of like me. Which really feels good.

And I am thankful that the fates and powers that blessed Ryan with a wonderful wife have now blessed him with a beautiful, wonderful child, because I am very happy for him, and it’s good to be happy for other people.

I am also happy for myself, and am thankful that I have been blessed with a wonderful wife and a beautiful, wonderful child.

I am thankful that the obvious similarities between myself and my boss obviously continue.

I am thankful for the days when my boss calls and says things like, “Have you tasted the 2007 Dynamite Hill recently?” And I say, “No.” And he says, “Can you pull a bottle and taste it, and tell me what you think?” And I say, “Yes, boss.”

I am thankful for, in no particular order: Love, and the Lack of Hate.

Also for Charlie Christian, Sonny Rollins, Bud Powell, Lester Young, Bill Evans, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Django Reinhardt, Miles Davis, Wes Montgomery, Zoot Sims, and Grant Green.

I am thankful that Duke Ellington is the Monte Bello of Jazz, and that Monte Bello is the Duke Ellington of Wine.

I am thankful for what localism teaches us about being peaceful with one another.

I am thankful that wine from our estates makes people feel peaceful.

I am thankful for peace.

I am thankful.

I am thankful for the certainty that this list will never end, and that, when confronted with all the wonderful things I’ve inadvertently omitted from this iteration of this list, I will have another opportunity at some future time to make amends.

I am thankful for ancient Mountains-and-Rivers Poetry.

I am thankful that I work on a mountain.

I am thankful to Ridge, for forever altering my life in momentous ways I could have never imagined, for, above all else, affording me the means to support my family.

I am thankful to Ridge for trusting me to speak for Ridge.

I am thankful for Merlot.

I am thankful for pine cones.

I am thankful for rattlesnakes, and the ones that don’t bite me.

I am thankful to Penske, for renting me the truck that carried me from New York to California, for helping to prove in yet one more way that Northern California is indeed the promised land, for stopping when I needed it to stop, at that truck stop where I first got on the phone with Nicole and inaugurated the process that would eventually culminate in my being hired by Ridge, and for starting again when it was time to start driving again to California.

I am thankful for my parents. And your parents.

I am thankful for anyone who buys a fine bottle of wine for their parents.

I am thankful for parents who buy Monte Bello from the birth year of their children.

I am thankful for the poetry of Dylan Thomas.

I am thankful for every moment, in every corner of the world, in which someone eats a slice of pizza, then takes a rather healthy swallow of really good wine.

I will never admit it to her, but in truth, I am thankful that my wife did not allow me to name our daughter “Pizza” as I wanted to, because even though this would guarantee I would spend my life saying, “I love you, Pizza” over and over, it wouldn’t have in fact been particularly fair to our daughter, and if there’s one thing that being a parent teaches you, it’s that love means someone else.

I am thankful for pizza.

I am thankful for pizza and wine.

I am thankful for, not Chivas Regal in a $5 room (as Tom Waits had it), but pizza and a $400 Monte Bello.

I am thankful for art, and those who mean to make it.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

I am thankful.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good day.

I am thankful you read this.

I am thankful for that which you feel thankful for.

I feel thankful for you, whoever you are.

I feel thankful.

I am thankful.

Thank you.

Tasting Notes: Assessing Possible 2013 ATP Releases

November 3, 2012

ATP Contenders …

It’s a ritual I always look very forward to; the tastings in which we consider possible release schedules for upcoming ATP wines. Why? Because I really, really, really love our ATP program. Want proof? When I was first hired by Ridge, one of the very first things I did to celebrate was to enroll my Dad in the ATP program. Because I really, really, really love our ATP wines. And now, he does too! (Plus, I really, really, really love my Dad! And, my Mom too, but she’s not much of a wine drinker …)

Anyhow, the Fall edition of this ATP tasting experience is always particularly enjoyable, as it’s generally the tasting in which we conclude by putting forth our first draft of the following year’s ATP release calendar.

The Tasters (minus moi, behind the lens …)

What this means, is that we taste a short list of ATP wines (already in bottle, but not yet released), to ascertain a) how they’re developing in the bottle, b) how soon they’ll be ready to release, and c) where on the calendar they best belong.

A number of factors go into making the decisions, but they can be deconstructed down to a pair of key considerations: a) developmental trajectory, and b) seasonality; meaning, how are they aging, and what time of year are the wines best suited for?

Paul Draper, talking ATP …

The first matter is very important when you take into consideration our approach to the ATP program. These wines are all very small-production, single-vineyard wines, and as such, they are traditionally available only through Ridge; meaning, they are not distributed. Which means there is no distributor calendar to meet. Which means we can release them when we want to. Which means, essentially, that we release them only when we feel that they are beginning to move into the first stages of their early drinkability. Meaning, we do a bit of the cellar aging for you! Which is why assessing developmental trajectory is important; we need to feel confident about how a wine is presenting, before we confirm it for a release date.

Tasting Notes …

The second consideration is vitally intertwined with the first in an important fashion, in that, unlike with some of our comparatively larger-production distribution wines — which we generally recommend laying down for a period of time — we operate under the assumption that the ATP wines are likely to be consumed reasonably close to their release date (given the extent that we hold them in our cellars first), which means that seasonality becomes quite important; as but one example, we wouldn’t be likely to release a Petite Sirah in July any more than we’d be likely to release a Chardonnay in January! Though that said, there are always exceptions …

ATP, through the drinking glass …

Anyhow, our tasting was set for November 1st, with a roster of 7 wines to assess:

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Petite Sirah

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah /Grenache

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

And here are some brief tasting notes:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Rich, slightly smoky, with a hint of sweetness, offset by a nicely subtle florality

Palate:

Bright, lifted, great acidity, medium bodyweight; compelling notes of persimmon, dried apple, and black cherry

Finish:

Taut & lean, showing a smoothening continuation of good acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Plummy, sweet, and concentrated, with hints of cocoa, caramel, and chocolate.

Palate:

A slight mentholation lifts the otherwise round, voluptuous, and decidedly zin-driven opulence; shows hints of almond extract, medium-sour cherry, and an overall decadence and unctuousness

Finish:

An emergent mix of black and white peppers invitingly complexilates the rich fruit

2010 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Cedar and vanilla/caramel, reserved fruit, some great autumn spice, even a hint of 5-spice

Palate:

Very focused, quite muscular architecture, tannin-forward, with good acidity and dense mid-tone fruit

Finish:

Gentle, with mello acidity

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache

Aromatics:

Dried fruit, Italian Pannetone, sandalwood, lavender and lilac, blackberry and blueberry preserves

Palate:

Smooth, balanced, integrated; great mix of fruit and spice, on the edge of decadent, but perfectly put together

Finish:

Pretty intense attack on the finish; short and wide, and an excellently reconciled expression of the fruit and spice balance

2008 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Syrah

Aromatics:

Loads of umami; savory to the nth; good ripe fruit with a deep black core redolent of blackberry, briar, and blueberry slump

Palate:

Nicely weighty, round, fully spread across the palate, with chalky tannins, and a touch of bright cherry

Finish:

Very tannin-forward, strong architecture, deep and intense, with nice notes of black pepper and cocoa powder

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Zinfandel

Aromatics:

Massive amounts of fruit on the nose; powerful, ripe, strong and muscular, with intense notes of blackberry preserves

Palate:

Fairly lifted, with higher-tone fruit; red apple skin, sour cherry, and cranberry, all mixed into a very rich rendition of Dry Creek briar and bramble

Finish:

An intense combination of tannin, acid, fruit, herb, spice, etc.; meaning, lots of everything, in copious amounts. A very intense wine

2007 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah

Aromatics:

Coffee, chicory, with an appealing duskiness comprised of, among other components, an air of burr-ground coffee beans

Palate:

Approachable, not too deep into the black, nice compendium of lo-tone fruit: black cherry and pluot in particular

Finish:

Good amount of acidity, very focused down the center of the palate, with a nice skin tannin presence lending an appealing mellowness

#Harvest2012: Ridin’ The Rig In -or- Sunny Day Geyserville: Parts 12 & 35

September 20, 2012

We now have Geyserville fruit at Monte Bello, and by that you know that #Harvest2012 is most definitely ON!

And what a delivery of fruit it was! I can personally testify that the old-vine Carignane that came in was some of the most delicious fruit I’ve ever tasted. And the Zinfandel was archetypically beatific Geyserville …

And by God, I tasted it the bloody second it came through the winery gates!

And how did I manage this incredible feat, you might ask? Why, I rode the grape truck in!

As noted, we received a beautiful delivery of Carignane, as well as gorgeous Zin berries from the Whitten Ranch …

As noted above, the first arrival of Geyserville is a special moment for the team at Monte Bello. The Dusi Ranch delivery was a fantastic happening, and a great kick-off for #Harvest2012. And everyone at Ridge has a soft spot for the brilliant old-vine fruit from The Mazzoni Ranch. But somehow, at Monte Bello, harvest doesn’t really seem to come fully into focus until the Geyserville arrives. THAT’S when the champys comes out … Cue Paul Draper, bottle in hand:

Then it’s back to the fruit, of course; to the job, to the present, to the future, to the harvest …

For a Guerilla Video tour of the action, follow the flick below; it’s about a 5 minute stomp-through of the Geyserville arrival …

And now a bit of a back track, from winery to vineyard. Will Thomas, exalted most high viticulturist at Lytton Springs, was in the trenches for the Geyserville pick, and had this to report from the field:

Good pick, fruit was in excellent condition, no shrivel, minimal rot. Nice to get these vineyards going, but it was a pretty foggy and bleak morning. We got about 20 tons today, and we’ll go out and get about that much tomorrow. 

Salt of the earth, vineyard folks. That’s the real deal knowledge drop, right there. Cheers Will, congratulations on a great pick! I was right there on top the gondola when the fruit rolled in, right there watching Eric Baugher clambering across the bins like a dazed and delighted monkey who’s just walzted into a banana emporium .. Meaning, Eric was awful happy! I mean, that fruit looked GOOD!

Perhaps the real miracle man in all of this is in fact David Gates, our Vice President of Vineyards Operations; David came sauntering onto the crush pad at Monte Bello about 15 minutes before Miguel drove the rig full of grapes in, and this despite his having been right there in the foggy Geyserville morning that very morning! Geyserville! Sonoma! Monte Bello! Santa Cruz Mountains!

Vineyard Folk, Winery Folk; folk magicians and conjure folk …

And to close out, here is a bit of Guerilla Vine Theater for you; footage coming courtesy of Mr. Will Thomas …

#Harvest2012. Feel it.

 

#Harvest2012: First Fruit at Lytton Springs!

September 15, 2012

Ah, they’re drinkin’ champys in Healdsburg, #Harvest2012 has begun at Lytton Springs!

Early this morning, before the morning fog had even broken …

the team was out and in the vines. The Buchignani Ranch. Carignane and Zinfandel.

And then, before the fog had barely even burned off …

… the vines were already picked clean.

From there, it was just a wee jaunt to the winery, where the grapes were introduced to their destiny …

Ever vigilant, the winemaking team took it all in, berry by precious berry …

Flashbulbs were poppin’, shutters were clackin’; memories made, memories stored …

To use the parlance of the day, it was a good pick.

Here is our VP of Vineyards Operations David Gates, on the character and quality of the fruit:

The Buchignani fruit looks great, good flavors, great acidity, and plenty of it. We picked all but a few tons of zinfandel (which will be harvested next week) and the carignane from the Top and Back blocks. The zin is as sweet as candy and the carignane tastes like a cherry apple, if there was such a fruit.

Ah, the perfect wisdom of David Gates! As pure an exhortation to plan your multi-case purchases of 2012 Buchignani Carignane & Zinfandel well ahead of time as ever was exhorted …

Here’s bit of the live action for you …

Please join me in raising a big toast to David Gates (VP of Vineyard Operations) and Will Thomas (Viticulturist, Lytton Springs) on the vineyard side, to John Olney & Muiris Griffin (Lytton Springs Winemaker & Assistant Winemaker respectively) on the winery side, and to all members of the vineyard and production team for a great #Harvest2012 debut!

Next Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting is 9.23.12, Confirmations To Go Out Monday!

September 9, 2012

Greetings all! Behold the skinny on that of which I wish to ensuingly speak:

What: Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting

When: Sunday, September 23rd, 1pm

Where: Ridge Vineyards/Monte Bello

That’s right, the next edition of the Ridge Vineyards Wine Bloggers Tasting is scheduled for Sunday, September 23rd, at 1pm, at our Monte Bello Estate, and we’re finalizing the guest list as we speak!

Confirmations are due to be sent out tomorrow, so if you’re still interested, now is the time to let us know!

If you wish to attend, please query via one of the following channels:

–Comment on this post
(or any other post of your choosing!)

–Post on our Facebook page
(http://www.facebook.com/RidgeVineyards)

–Twitter at us!
(Use #RidgeVineyards & #WineBloggersTasting)

This series has been quite a remarkable phenomenon for us. We launched it back in March 2010, and have covered a great deal of thematic ground since. We’ve hosted a dizzying array of talented writers and tasters, and hosted in a wide variety of locations.  We’ve gone toe-to-toe with Robert Parker, and waxed wine & jazz. We’ve tasted in barrel rooms and on crush pads, gone on video, and typed on vintage manual typewriters. We’ve tasted blind and double-blind, Rhones and Bordeauxs. We’ve snuck-peeked new releases, and drawn deep on the library. In short, we’ve had an amazing time.

If you happened to have attended #WBC12, you might have seen me in the company of the esteemed Ed Thralls and Sasha Kadey, co-hosting a panel entitled “The Winery View of Bloggers.” And if you were in the audience, I am hopeful that you took away, if nothing else, the realization that we at Ridge Vineyards (along with Ed and Sasha!) are devout believers when it comes to our wine blogger colleagues, and the wine blogging community.

I personally feel this tasting series to be one of our most signficant expressions of our solidarity and support, and ideally, I believe it to be a contributive mechanism as well; we’re not just supporters, we’re writers too!

As any of you who’ve attended in the past know, there is always a theme. Some examples from past editions:

– Monte Bello vertical, paralleling a Robert Parker tasting

–Winery-only Rhone-varietal wines

–Lytton Springs vertical, 1987-2009

–Acrostic Anagrams

–VerticalModelMembershipManifesto

–11-vintage Monte Bello library tasting; blind tasted

–Small-production, winery-only library wines from Lytton Estate

–Historic Vineyard Series & Vintage Manual Typewriters

–The Gospels of Paul: Wine & Jazz, Paul Draper & Paul Chambers

As to theme for this upcoming edition? A secret!

Unless the theme itself necessitates advance disclosure, the theme is not be revealed until the tasting commences.

One important thing to note; the guest list is not in fact strictly constrained to “wine bloggers” per se.

If you’re a music/food/art/philosophy/lifestyle/culture/media/literature blogger who also writes about wine, please consider yourself eligible as well!

And with that, I’ll conclude this post by extending the invitation one more time; if you’re interested in attending the September 2012 Edition of our Wine Bloggers Tasting Series, please query at your earliest convenience, as we’re hoping to send out confirmations tomorrow.

Cheers!

An Early Tasting Of The New Fall Releases: Lytton Springs, Ponzo, Pagani Ranch & Monte Bello …

August 7, 2012

This time of year is both exciting and bemusing; ripe with anticipation, and fraught with perplexation. The new Fall Releases are on their way, and we’re beginning to taste them with some degree of regularity. But we don’t really know them yet, whereas their precursors are near-woven into the veritable chains of our collective palate DNAs. Meaning, give me a 2009 Lytton Springs, and I’m like a mood ring wrapped around its finger; I know if it’s happy, or if it’s sad; if it’s excited, tired, or bored; if it’s loving or detached. But the 2010 is still a stranger to me. I watch it’s face; was that a smirk or a smile? Is it teasing me, or did it mean that? Am I boring it? Is it listening to me? What is it trying to tell me? I left a message, why won’t it call me back? Wow, it held my hand!? Should I try and kiss it? And so on …

So, yesterday, I had a chance to taste them again; the new Fall Releases. The 2010 Lytton Springs, the 2010 Ponzo, the 2010 Pagani Ranch, and the 2009 Monte Bello. And I wrote tasting notes, for no other reason than to give me something to compare against when, six months down the line, I’ve established some rapport. Then I can look back, and review my initial impressions. It’s like reading the letters you wrote your soon-to-be-fiancee back when you were still courting. Sure, some of the initial giddy euphoria will have worn off, but in its place will be a maturing love that rests on a far sturdier rock.

And with that in mind, I present my giddy love notes. And giddy they are, and in love I am. Full disclaimer, I am really loving these releases. I know, I know, puppy love and mash notes. But still, I’m in love!

2010 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs

I’m looking at the varietal spread, and I’m smiling already: 67 zin, 23 petite sirah, 7 carignane, 3 mataro. That’s a mix after my own heart. Let the tasting begin!

Beautiful dark hues in the bowl; rich purple, dense magenta, penetrating garnet, with a gorgeous ruby limn lifted by dark fuchsia highlights … Interesting structure to the legs; they’re fairly thick and viscous, but they run down fairly quickly …

Very strong boysenberry and blackberry notes to the nose, with a hint of cranberry, toast, brioche, and caramel balanced against some higher-toned strawberry and raspberry aromas, which are somewhat uniquely wrapped up in an interlacing of crème de menthe tones …

Mouthfeel is big and plush and full and instantly Dry Creek in character; brambly and spicy and racy and rich and flavorful and strong and eminently delicious. The low-tone black-fruit presence of the petite sirah comes on pretty strong, and those grippy tannins hang on well into the finish …

The finish is still a tad taut at this young age, and the carignane and mataro don’t seem to be making much of a play for sensorial attention yet, but the wine’s already complex opulence should mean that things will only continue to get more interesting …

Even without the singular challenges of the 2010 vintage, this would be an astonishingly self-possessed, ebullient, focused, and powerful wine. That it emerged from such demanding conditions makes this offering all the more impressive.

2010 Ridge Vineyards Ponzo Zinfandel

I am always excited about any Ponzo that emerges from a cooler growing season, as the 2010 does; the Russian River location of this wonderful old-vine property seems naturally to play into the cooler-climate model, and when Ponzo really sings, it does so when it can display in full flower its freshness, its brightness, its enervative and evocative playfulness and sophistication …

Running all points along the plum-tone spectrum, the wine is just plain pretty in the bowl, and the quickly-slip-sliding legs bespeak all the elegance I’m hoping for upon tasting …

The nose is exotic to the point of surprise at first sniff; hard to place the almost unsettlingly beguiling mix of spices on offer; what are these aromas? It’s almost a curry profile, full of multi-shaded peppers, herbs, and ground spices. I’m completely entranced, and utterly confused … Digging deeper into the bouquet, I can definitely find the red and black cherries I would expect to be present, as well as some sweet vanilla and oak, and even a touch of chocolatey herbaceousness …

A light but still decadent mouthfeel that manages to be both refined and tarty; a sort of quiet sentimentality is on offer here; hints of a deep well of emotion corseted in elegantly teasing outer layers …

The acidity and high-tone fruit are the selling points here; this is a light and lifted offering that still manages to deliver the joyful decadence of proper zinfandel; cool-climate perfect, Russian River delicious.

2010 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch Zinfandel

Ah, the Alicante Bouschet. 16% with this vintage. I am happy.

Notably dark in the bowl, it is almost impenetrably purple-black at the core, working its way outward concentrically through hoops of barely lightening hues, finally finishing at a limn of glistening magenta …

The aromatics are every bit as distinctive as one would expect with a Pagani offering; good lord, what all am I smelling in here? On one side: bark, chicory, pipe tobacco, and mint chocolate ice cream; on the other side: potpourri, sesame cucumber salad, sesame seed and seaweed, pomegranate, and cardamom. Good lord …

Right down the pipe with this one; not a great deal of in-the-cheek activity, but a great dose of both fruit and acidity instantly going slip-sliding down center palate; mostly red-fruit in character, with a hint of tartness, some utterly quenching tannin architecture, and a nice dose of blood-orange/ruby grapefruit citricity near the back end of the palate trip …

The finish is actually slightly sweet, and the mouthfeel rounds out considerably at the close. A very interesting reconciliation of an overall smaller feel with a firmer architectural touch, this 2010 Pagani enacts a bit of an inversion of sorts, in that it speaks loudly, but wields a smaller stick …

Put another way, it packs a lot of complexity, finesse, and incomparability into a streamlined and eminently potable package, with an absoutely archetypical mix of entrancing spices in the bouquet topping off the profile.

2009 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

A varietal trio shapes this vintage — Cab/Merlot/PetitVerdot. To date, the 2009 edition of Monte Bello has (in internal tastings) already shown itself to be one of those true “crowd pleaser” versions of itself; if the spectrum that Monte Bello can run goes from the very rustic, earthy, spicy, acidity-driven and herbaceous, to the very rich, lush, succulent, concentrated and fruit-driven, then this definitely skews to the latter; meaning, it is beyond generous with its bounty, and accordingly, it’s a wine you want to spend a great deal of time with. Literally, it pleases the crowd; any crowd, every crowd, with pleasure …

Purpley, plush, and blackly dense in the bowl, with a lovely magenta halo and thin but purposeful legs …

Aromatics rich with cherries sweet and sour, loads of cocoa, coffee, and cedar, and a healthy dose of minty eucalyptality …

Expansive, eruptive, and seductive on the palate, there is literally almost too much information here for one mouth to handle; there is everything from the highest-tone fruit and the brightest acidity, to the lowest-tone earth and the blackest of herbs. This is, quite literally, a mouthful. A mouthful of mouthfeel.

Carignane, My Wayward Son

July 15, 2012

Time Has Come Today!

The new 2010 Buchignani Ranch Carginane is here, and we’re pouring it today at Monte Bello!

One look at the “liner notes” on the back label should be enough to alert you that somethin’ special is goin’ on here …

Carignane_Label_Lives_Here! 

And our tasting this morning did not a single thing to dispel our excitement …

2010 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane

Appearance: Wonderful color in the bowl; dense mulberry and magenta hues laced with fine bright fuchsia highlights. Lightly viscous, with swift and mid-girth legs bespeaking archetypal carginane body-type …

Aromatics: Fascinating mix of appealing berry and fruit notes (black cherry and blackberry balanced against red and black cherry, plus a touch of cranberry piquant-ness) infused with a completely fascinating layer of black caraway (kilijiri) …

Palate: Fruit goes even slightly blacker on the palate, showing tarter versions of traditionally black and sweet fruits (pluot, blackberry, Montmorency cherries); there are also tasty hints of bittersweet chocolate and cocoa, and all previous are wrapped in both a somewhat uncharacteristically firmer tannin architecture, and a totally popping level of acidity …

Finish: The pop of the acidity stays strong through a finish that manages to be both big and long, without obfuscating the classically leaner and spicier mouthfeel that we traditionally associate with this wine…

Summary: Brilliant for sipping, but will ace it at the table as well; think unorthodox for your pairings, and try it at both extremes: where you might normally serve a white, and where you might normally serve a cab. A lovely group of members had this yesterday with their picnic, and paired it with duck prosciutto and melon, to excellent results. But don’t be afraid to serve this with steak au poivre either. And if you go curry, go Carignane.

Thanks to Sam Howles-Banerji for tasting with me, and for helping to identify what on earth that black spice was that we were smelling!


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