Archive for the ‘Carignane’ Category

The Old School Is New Again …

January 26, 2012

You know it’s coming, yet somehow you won’t admit it to yourself. It’s inevitable, of course, but it’s impossible survive the days if you’re in conscious embracement of the facts. Somehow, we have to psychically suspend our realities in order to keep on keepin’ on. But all things must pass.

The news came yesterday. They’d pulled it.

The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School was removed from the website. It was over.

Fortunately, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School ain’t too far down the road!

I’ll be sure to let you know when it’s released, but in the meantime, here are some tasting notes, just to keep you going through these tough times …

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School

As you may or may not know, the Old School designation is actually part of our Geyserville estate, but as it’s a group of vines that traditionally provide fruit that ripens to a greater degree of intensity, the juice is traditionally bottled separately in small amounts under the Old School name, and released as a special winery-only offering.

Stylistically, because of the selection criteria, the Old School favors a flavor profile that can run the gamut from sweet in character (a ripe quality that presents the illusion of sweetness without any actual real and significant amount of residual sugar) to actual sweetness (featuring actual residual sugar).

The 2009 is definitely of the former ilk; while the wine is certainly rich and intensely flavored and fruit-driven, a combination of notable water-stress and early ripening during the growing season, and an aggressive and disciplined selection process at the winery (made possible courtesy of a new receiving and sorting system), have made for a wine of surprising integrity and balance.

In addition to the voluptuousness of the fruit and the generosity of the bouquet, there are strong hints of that classic Geyserville spiciness that creep into the flavor profile at just the right moments. These notes primarily come courtesy of the vineyard-blend model deployed for the assemblage of this wine; the zinfandel (at 78%) is structurally rounded out and enhanced by the inclusion of carignane and petit sirah, two classic “mixed blacks” that also form the architectural backbone of the Geyserville.  

The 2007 Old School was one of our top-selling winery-only wines last year, and while it was a sweeter, riper rendition than the 2009, I think the ’09 is poised to not only keep the ’07 fans very happy, but also accrue a whole new set of believers as well. It’s got the fruit for the ’07 set, but it’s also got the complexity, structure, and spice that should win over some converts who may not normally find themselves on the ripe side of life.

If I may say so, it’s a perfect February wine; it’s got Valentine’s Day written all over it …

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holiday Packs are here!

October 28, 2011

It’s only October, I know, but in order to make certain we assemble the finest selection of wines possible to escort you through your holiday season, we begin the tasting process early, and I am now happy to report that the final collections have been confirmed. We are extremely excited by this year’s offerings, particularly as we’ve included a rather stunning array of library wines in the various packs, and we’re all extremely eager to share with you the results.

In order to kick things off properly, we scheduled an internal library tasting of wines included in the holiday packs, with members of the Ridge team participating from three different locations: our Warehouse in Milpitas (where both the warehouse and customer service groups are based), our Lytton Springs Estate, and here at Monte Bello. Using a web feed, winemakers Paul Draper and Eric Baugher led all three locations through the wines on offer, while yours truly manned the camera, and peppered our hosts with questions.

Paul Draper and myself, talking shop in advance of the tasting ...

(photo by Sonja Seaberg)

I think all concerned came away from the tasting feeling extremely excited by, and energized about, this year’s holiday selections; the wines are in tremendous form, and armed with all the additional insights we gleaned from the opportunity to taste with Paul and Eric, I think everyone is beside themselves with anticipation as regards talking these wines with you. And you, and you, and you …

 
For myself, I humbly offer the following tasting notes (to see more about this year’s holiday offerings, please click here):
 
 
 

2005 Ridge Vineyards Stone Ranch Zinfandel

While planted on Geyserville soil, these vines traditionally produce a lighter, more fruit-forward, more easy-drinking style, and accordingly, the fruit is often held out of the Geyserville assemblage, in favor of a separate bottling, under the Stone Ranch designation. Such was certainly the case in 2005; a notably ripe year.

 A kindred spirit of sorts to the Carmichael — another approachably fruit-driven ATP offering — the Stone Ranch nonetheless shows a slightly higher-tone profile, evidencing a more bramble-driven red-fruit character than the comparatively moodier Carmichael.

 To my palate, the carignane continues to lend great acidity to the overall mouthfeel, while allowing the chalkiness of the minerality pride of place simultaneously. Hints of oak-derived sweet vanillin speckle the early aromatics, while traces of coriander and citrus peel enliven the finish. With half a decade’s worth of bottle age, this wine has settled into a surprisingly (and rewardingly!) complex offering that nonetheless retains its youthful lightness and approachability.

 Should prove to be a great Autumnal offering, perfect with appetizers and first courses at the holiday table.

 2004 Ridge Vineyards Oltranti Zinfandel

 One of only two vintages crafted from the younger zinfandel planting on the legendary Mazzoni Home Ranch, this offering is as unique a wine as any released under the ATP banner. Buoyed by the small introductions of older vine carignane and petite sirah, this has historically been a notably tannin-forward, intensely structured offering. With approximately 5 years of bottle age woven into its fabric, it’s still a big wine; a strutting, cocksure wine with its money where its mouth is; meaning, the aromatics offer the promise, and the body delivers the goods.

Autumnality is front-and-center as regards its “at table” personality; loads of dried fruits on the nose, with shades of mincemeat, figs, and toasted nuts calling up all sorts of holiday reflections. The mouthfeel at point-of-entry is almost impossibly round; a mouthful of a mouthfeel, as it were. Not content to wow you with physical prowess, however, the Oltranti serves up some great tobacco, bramble, and forestation as well; the second and third-tier supporting characteristics give a unique lift to this fleshily omnipresent Atlas. A great offering to meet the middle of your holiday meal; the entrée!

2003 Ridge Vineyards Independence School

A true collector’s item in every sense of the term, this is the first release of what would become our Old School designation, and the only one to actually carry the “Independence School” name. This, as with the Stone Ranch, is ostensibly Geyserville fruit, but as with the Stone Ranch (though for very different reasons!), the blocks that make up this wine are held out of the Geyserville assemblage due to their singular personalities. In this wine’s case, the fruit is held out for a separate small-batch, winery-only offering in acknowledgement of its traditionally riper, sweeter, more fruit-forward character. Accordingly, expect unctuousness in spades, voluptuousness in decadently seasoned excess, and luxuriant fruit at all points across the palate.

While there is little that one could claim as tame about this wine, I am consistently and pleasantly surprised by its balance; this is an athlete of an offering; you experience the grace, and are hard-pressed to remember that it comes via endless hours in the weight room. A great wine with which to close a hearty holiday meal; cheeses, fruits, and chocolates should abound, as friendships are re-solidified, and family bonds affirmed.

“Dusi Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, 2006 & 2005

Quite a treat to taste these side-by-side! Benito Dusi’s ranch is such a legendary fixture of the Ridge portfolio, and while our Paso Robles zinfandel is one of our most consistently shaped offerings, it is often via the comparatively more mercurial Dusi Ranch designation that one comes to truly know and love these vines, and this vineyard. Traditionally comprised of blocks held out of the larger Paso Robles assemblage by virtue of their comparatively riper, sweeter profile, the Dusi is actually capable of not only showing unexpectedly complex characteristics, but evidencing authentically enticing seasonal variables as well.

These two vintages are, in many ways, a perfect study in contrast. Conventional wisdom (if anything about Ridge can be said to be conventional!) would certainly propose the Dusi offering as a ripe, warm-climate zinfandel, and the 2006 vintage does not disappoint in this regard. It wears its natural fruit on its shoulder, but also shows itself to have been (as it was) the product of a submerged cap fermentation; there are tannins, there is earth, and there is some darkness under all that concentratedly rich fruit. But fruit is the word, is the word, is the word …

That said, if you expect more of the same when heading into the ’05, be prepared for an adjustment of sorts. Sure, it’s still warm-climate, old-vine zin, and sure there is a lot of fruit on offer, but there is also acidity! Not something one normally expects from this combination of region and varietal. And in fact, there is a whole host of structural components on offer; in addition to acidity, there are some nicely coated and resolving tannins, there is some herbality and woodsiness, and there are some fine layers of fruit as well.

In October of ‘06, Eric Baugher gave a 5 to 6-year projection of longevity for this wine. Were that accurate, we’d be calling this wine to task right now, branding it as being at its peak. But when tasting this wine with Eric and Paul Draper today (October of ’11), I found I was not the only one who thought this wine had years of life still ahead; both Eric and Paul said it was going to “go out”; and go out it will. Certainly drinkable now, but if you want a rarefied library offering to sit on just a bit longer, this might just be your perfect catch.

“Estate Cabernet Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate (now Estate Cabernet), 2005, 2004, and 2003

I admit it. I am spoiled. This should have been one of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life. But I have to confess, I just tasted these wines rather recently, as part of the worldwide #CabernetDay celebration. That said, guess what this was? One of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life! Three truly tremendous vintages, of a truly tremendous wine, tasted in the company of Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and a whole host of my most excellent colleagues; priceless.

It would take pages upon pages to truly navigate the unique history of this designation, and its singular relationship to the Monte Bello, so suffice it to say that one might not be far off the mark in suggesting that, with the 2003 vintage, this designation truly came into its own, emerging out of the shadow of the Monte Bello as its own wine; grown, harvested, and vinted in similar fashion, beneficiary of an equally intense attention to detail, but selected and assembled with an altogether different overarching aesthetic in mind.

Put another way, it’s a hell of a wine, and particularly for the price; meaning, from a price break to quality standpoint, you rarely get this much wine for this little of an investment. And the 2003 is where this really and truly becomes the indisputable case.

All that said, the tasting begins with the 2005. The only vintage of the trio without Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the assemblage, this wine perfectly enacts the growing season that year; preposterously low yields (less than 1 ton an acre) resulting in a deep, dark, concentrated, structure-forward profile. The nose is all chocolate and campfire and s’mores, and the mid-palate is all gluttony and indulgence. That said, it’s still a frighteningly balanced wine; frightening in that it manages to pack all that baroque romanticism and architectural decadence into an almost sexually-charged come-on; you want this wine, because it moves so well, but at the same time, you can’t help but sense the primality lurking just below the surface. One to watch, one to wish for, one to covet.

The 2004 is an altogether different animal, the product of a perversely unusual growing season; one in which the harvesting of Monte Bello (the estate) was essentially bisected; early picking on one side of the October rains, late picking the other. The resulting wine, I will confess, is one of my personal favorites. To borrow a colloquialism, it’s just my kind of funky. It’s a bit rustic, a bit earthy, a bit dirty, a bit bluesy. In short, delicious! The big “B” gets thrown around a lot in wine circles (Bordeaux), much the same way that “Genius” is oft-misused by certain rather purple-y writers in the various arts fields; meaning, if I had a dollar for every tired, derivative, re-hashed, substance-less wine, poem, play, novel, song, album painting, etc. … Anyhow, the point is, that still, to this day, “Bordeaux” is prized as the ultimate comparative; “In a blind tasting, I would have sworn this was a first growth!” And while that’s instructive in certain realms, and nonsensical in others, it serves a purpose here, because this is truly cause for a pause; if your wish is to embrace an American producer who can very successfully and authentically produce wines that are fully in line with all that we hold dear about the legitimately still-great Bordeaux producers, all while doing so in uniquely American fashion, and on top of that, at disarmingly populist price breaks, then please, do yourself a favor, and find a way to drink this wine. It’s just that kind of excellent.

And finally, we return to the 2003, which, as Paul himself noted, is really and truly coming into its own. If you want to seriously wow your holiday table guests, without digging too deep into your cellar, or into your wallet, just serve this out of decanter, and watch the mouths drop. This is a serious, serious wine, and it lacks nothing, and I mean nothing, when compared to bottles of twice the price break, if not more.

 

Picking Lytton West: The Movie!

September 29, 2011

My time experiencing #Harvest2011 up at Lytton Springs this past weekend concluded with an extraordinary opportunity; the chance to tag along with the vineyard teams as they picked at Lytton West!

My phone started ringing at about 5:30am. It was Will Thomas, viticulturist at Lytton, rousting me out. In 15 minutes, I was outside the hotel, shrouded in the damp morning mist, coffee cup in hand, awaiting the arrival of his truck. He pulled up, and I got in. In the dim light, he pointed out on his vineyard map the blocks getting picked that morning: Block 33 (Carignane) and Block 45 (Zinfandel).

We drove past the Lytton Springs winery, turned off the main road, and began to wind through the vineyards. We pulled up and stopped at what I can best describe as a compound of sorts; the epicenter of the vineyard crew’s lives during the harvest, where they eat and sleep, and the jumping-off point for a new morning’s picking.

When we got to the blocks to be picked, Will hit the ground at a quick pace, prowling the rows like a hungrily alert panther, eyes darting this way and that, seeing all.

Acutely aware of my interloper/outside status, I went off on my own as soon as possible, in hopes of both observing unawares, and staying out of everyone’s way. Picking began in the Carignane block.

It was a  fantastically beautiful morning, and dewdrops shivered in anticipation of the sun’s light beginning to seep into the vinerows.

If you’ve never seen a vineyard crew at work, it’s quite remarkable. You’d be utterly and completely astonished at how rapidly they work. I’ve experienced it countless times, and I am still flabbergasted every time. Almost before it started, it was over. Block 33 was picked.

And the sun had barely crested the hills.

I got back into the truck with Will, and we drove to the next block; zinfandel.

And suddenly again, with a rapidity impossible to describe, it was over. Block 45 had been harvested.

For the crew, their day was over, but for David Gates (Vice President, Vineyard Operations) and Will Thomas, the day was only just beginning. The math, science, and technology of harvest is a whole other game altogether, and it begins with entering vital information into our systems; varietal, block, tonnage, etc. Without this info coming in on time, the winery can’t be prepared for the arrival of the fruit. David and Will put their heads together, and did the math.

When Will finally dropped me off back at my hotel, I was tired. Not physically tired (after all, I hadn’t actually been picking!), not sleep-deprived tired (5:30am isn’t all that bad after all!), but brain-tired; exhausted by all I’d witnessed, and weighted down by all I’d learned. I felt wonderful!

My challenge then was to try and assemble all the raw photographic material I’d collected into something that would do justice to the experience, but as I sifted through it all, I found it nearly impossible to fully create anything that could accurately express my admiration for our team’s performance in the vineyards; they work so extraordinarily hard, pick so masterfully clean, and consistently deliver such outstanding fruit. I was at a loss. So I did very little. I simply strung together my series of mini-vids, and let them speak for themselves. I hope you enjoy this!

To drink a Ridge wine has always been, for me, an intensely experiential event; my future experience of our wines has been immeasurably enhanced by my time in the vineyards. I offer my sincere gratitude for having been granted the opportunity. To all on the crews, to Will, and to David Gates, I say thank you!

#Harvest 2011: It Begins!

September 16, 2011

Harvest 2011 has begun for Ridge Vineyards!

It’s the 259th day of the year, and it’s bursting with good mojo. It’s a musical day; the great jazz guitarist Charlie Byrd was born on this day, as was blues guitarist B.B. King, and the legendary Irish singer Ronnie Drew. It’s also the date the world celebrates “International Day for the Preservation of the Ozone Layer.” And, it’s both the date the Mayflower left England for America, and Mexican Independence Day!

So, back to harvest. The big question is, where is it beginning? As you likely know, Ridge Vineyards is a “single-vineyard producer,” meaning we make wines comprised of fruit coming solely from a single vineyard property, with the goal of preserving and expressing, as best as possible, what is unique about any given property. Accordingly, we work with a number of different properties, in a number of different micro-climates, with singular characteristics on offer at each. So again, where is harvest beginning; meaning, which vineyard is first?

Well, it’s a vineyard located on Dutcher Creek Road, in the hills on the far western edge of the Alexander Valley appellation, and it gives us not one but two of our ATP wines: a solo-varietal carginane, and a zinfandel. The first block of carignane planted there went in the ground in 1927; the last in the 1950s. We made our first wine from these head-trained, spur-pruned vines in 1999.

Can you guess which vineyard it is?

We started harvesting this property at first light this morning, and our viticulturist Will Thomas sent me a beautiful shot of the action:

Now do you know which vineyard it is?

The Buchignani Ranch!

Howl, Superfly, and the new 2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane!

June 3, 2011

I have been listening to Superfly and typing on a 1940s Royal. Why? Because June 3rd is the birthday of both Curtis Mayfield and Allen Ginsberg, and I LOVE that kind of synchronicity! Too hip …

In the spirit of Allen Ginsberg’s immortal “first word/best word” mantra, I have been typing spontaneously, no editing. A feat of Kerouacian stamina … and that may explain why I used “pop rocks” as a verb. But in honor of Mr. Mayfield, I was beautiful and funky while I did it …

Because we’re pouring the new 2009 Buchignani Ranch at First Friday tonight, I thought I’d have a go at typing up some tasting notes. Here is where me, Allen, and Curtis ended up:

And here is what it all looked like in picture and video. And do note, if you would, the video. It’s the GREATEST decanting video EVER. Or so I think, emboldened as I am with all my Superflyness and Howlness …

The video:

The pics:

And of course, if necessary, a typewriter transcription:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane

It’s baaaaaack! Not that the 2008 rendition wasn’t a fine wine; it was. But in certain vintages, the old-vine carignane from this extraordinary property just sings in a way that is inexplicably magical. The 2009 is clearly going to be one of these vintages, you can smell it as soon as the wine hits the glass. It’s that utterly singular combination of bouncing high-tone fruit and sweet, lascivious melted caramel, the blend of exotic spices, that cool herbaceousness … One sniff is all it takes. Front-palate takes a quick black turn, drawing in a nice tobacco-y tarriness before returning the tickling of bright spice and acrobatic acidity to pride-of-place. The mid-palate pop rocks a horde of bright red berry liveliness across the sensors, wrapping pinpoint acidity in a sleek coat of gossamer vitality. Put another way, it’s juicy, it’s got acidity, it’s just a touch sweet in character (if not actual sugars) and it’s utterly beguiling. The finish gets a touch of red apple skin into the mix, completing the chorus of components. Just a total winner, and now? I want cheese, glorious cheese, high fat cheese, triple cream cheese, cheese, cheese, cheese, nice round warm cheese to absorb all that crisp, clean acidity …

#RRSF Grand Tasting!

March 27, 2011

Do you plan to attend the Rhone Rangers San Francisco Grand Tasting today? If so, please make sure to visit the Ridge Vineyards table, we’ve got a tremendous roster of wines to share with you! Here is the line-up:

2009 BUCHIGNANI RANCH CARIGNANE (pre-release!)

100% Carignane

“The 2009 is our eleventh vintage from this small vineyard in the hills north of Dry Creek Valley. Planted in the thirties, forties, and fifties, it has been meticulously cared for by Dino Buchignani, a role now filled by his son Stan. Full of pure fruit and elegant structure, this old-vine carignane is enjoyable now, and will be at its best over the next four to five years.” John Olney (8/10)

 

2005 LYTTON ESTATE GRENACHE

88% Grenache, 6% Zinfandel, 6% Petite Sirah

“The two oldest parcels, planted in 1902 and 1963, are the heart of this wine. They are field blends of grenache, with minor amounts of zinfandel and petite sirah. Pure grenache from the two younger parcels contributes finesse and definition, and eighteen months in oak has integrated fruit and tannin, accentuating the wine’s exotic spice. This excellent grenache will be at its best over the next five years.” Eric Baugher (3/07)

2006 LYTTON ESTATE SYRAH/GRENACHE

50% Syrah, 50% Grenache

“Syrah’s deep flavors and firm structure complement the bright fruit, spice, and lively acidity of grenache. After twenty months in air-dried american oak barrels, the wine’s elements have integrated beautifully. Approachable now, it promises to continue developing over the next six to eight years.” Eric Baugher (8/08)

2006 LYTTON ESTATE SYRAH (pre-release!)

92% Syrah, 8% Viognier

“Viognier and syrah co-fermented on their natural yeasts in seven small tanks; we pressed early to avoid excessive tannins. Full-bodied and solidly structured, this fine syrah will develop further with ten to twelve years in bottle.” Eric Baugher (9/08)

2009 LYTTON ESTATE PETITE SIRAH (our first national-release Petit Sirah!)

100% Petite Sirah

“This hundred-percent varietal is our first national release Petite Sirah that shows the structure, balance, and complexity that can be achieved when soil and varietal are perfectly matched. It will soften and evolve over the next ten years.” John Olney (11/10)

If you require some additional information about the event, please click here. And if you attend, PLEASE send us thought, perceptions, comments, tasting notes, photos, we want it all! And mainly, enjoy!

Another Carignane Evangelical Goes On A Mission!

February 8, 2011

It is with great pleasure, pride, and excitement that I celebrate another voice in the great Carignane mission; enter Chiara Shannon, head sommelier at K&L Wine Merchants in Redwood City. Chiara has recently begun writing for the K&L blog, and with one fine missive, she has outed herself as a devout Carignane believer!

You can read her post here.

For those of you who would like to do a little digging into this blog’s own humble history of posts in defense of this oft-unjustly-maligned varietal whose star is in fact very much in the ascendancy (and some other contributions as well!), please feel free to enjoy the following links:

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/11/09/eric-asimov-the-pour-welcome-to-the-fight-or-carignane-wins-again/

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/07/13/a-carignane-confluence-or-a-conversion-conversation-or-monroe-on-carignane/

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/06/18/more-on-carignane-or-carignane-tom-hill-and-me-or-how-the-ridge-vineyards-1992-whitten-ranch-carignane-changed-everything-for-me/

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2009/06/16/carignane-redux-or-where-the-wild-thing-is-or-20000-leagues-under-the-carignane-or-dont-blame-the-varietal-for-the-method/

ZAP Pre-Taste: Tasting Notes!

January 27, 2011

Ok, now we’re into the real nitty gritty!

But first, if you need to catch up, here are the previous and relevant posts:

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/01/26/zap-pre-taste/

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/01/24/zap-bob-dylan-and-the-greatest-tasting-note-movie-ever-shot/

Ok, so here is the list of the wines that Eric and I tasted:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville (barrel sample)

2009 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch (barrel sample)

2008 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Ranch (in bottle, winery-only offering, pre-release)

2008 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch (in bottle, winery-only offering, pre-release)

2006 Mazzoni Home Ranch (current release, winery-only)

2009 Ridge Vineyards Paso Robles (in bottle, pre-release)

2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School (in bottle, winery-only offering, pre-release)

And here are some tasting notes! Hopefully, you’ll get to taste these at ZAP, and we can compare! I’ll be at the Ridge table Saturday afternoon, so don’t hesitate to say hello!

2009 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville (barrel sample)

Quite high-toned color, with a light, fresh, buoyant nose expressing lovely perfume and florality; very pretty! … Seamlessly structured, not a bump in the road; no bite, no aggress, no discordance, no nothing, just perfectly structured … fascinating hints of sweet baked apple pie, with the requisite sampling of cinnamon, nutmeg, and other such spices … the high tone aspects continue into the palate as well; lot of bright cherry notes coming through … the late assemblage MO that Eric employed has paid off handsomely as regards the complexities, there is an awful lot going on in this wine, and it’s all beautiful …

2009 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch (barrel sample)

Utterly beautiful color! And classically Pagani-esque aromatics; rich, compressed, laden with a potpourri of pressed flower leaves, grilled orange pepper, and all-spice, with a great briny layer as well … Very light on the palate, very clean minerality, hinting at cornflower and talc … brighter, leaner acidity that the past couple of vintages, reminiscent of the 2006, one of my personal favorite Paganis … even delivers an almost Grenache-like dose of blood orange at the end! A great Pagani in my estimation, though again, a leaner, brighter one …

2008 Ridge Vineyards Carmichael Ranch (in bottle, pre-release)

This is just an ARCHETYPAL Ridge Zinfandel, perfectly expressing everything we love to do with zin production; it’s got pepper, it’s got exotic spices, it’s fleshy without being flabby, its opulent without being ostentatious, it’s fruit-forward without being over-ripe, it’s both professorially dignified yet sensuously giving … in short, delicious! … While Eric and I were tasting this wine, I started talking to it; I said, “Oh yeah, I’m drinking you tonight, I’m drinking all of you! I’m drinking most of you at dinner, and then I’m taking you to bed, and we’re going to take advantage of one another!” … That’s what I said. To this wine. When I was talking to it.

2008 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch (in bottle, pre-release)

If the above was quintessential Ridge, this is quintessential Buchignani. Funky, rich, concentrated and earthy, with loads of lower-tone boysenberry and blackberry notes, layers of dried herbs counterbalanced by a potent pepperiness, and a very firm tannin layer that definitely takes front seat while acidity rides in the back … This is one to watch, but still a little too muscular for current consumption …

2006 Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch (current release)

A consistently fantastic old-vine designation, and this a fantastic vintage. Rich, ripe, but tempered, in supreme balance … this has all the qualities of zin that, when excessive, can be negatives, but when integrated, are just pure delight … lean mouthfeel, great acidity courtesy of the high percentage of carignane, lovely old-vine concentration and significant yet supple minerality … an extraordinary food wine that had Eric and I rhapsodizing about tapas for a good ten minutes … the subtle hint of kirsch adds a nicely sweet underlayer beneath the exotic spice and the vibrant acidity … waiter, another dish of patatas bravas!

2009 Ridge Vineyards Paso Robles

Sweet, ripe, woody, great notes of cherry tobacco on the rose; pretty classic Paso fruit … Given the distinctly different micro-climate within which this fruit is grown, I’d say this is a very honest central coast zin offering, and very in keeping with previous vintages; particularly the 2007; with 2006 being notably leaner, and 2008 being somewhat uniquely more multi-dimensioned then Paso fruit can sometimes be … this is probably not the most complex zin in the Ridge portfolio, but its fewer dimensions are still good ones, and for those who like a riper style without the alcohol levels that tend to come with that style, this should be a great offering …

2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School

Wonderful red-wood character to the aromomatics, with a succulent savoriness reminiscent of a good cigar soaked in cherry juice or brandy … the sweet tobacco character permeates through to the palate as well, as do the cherry notes, making for a richly flavored, sweet and savory offering … there are also hints of caramel apple afoot, the tangy citricity from which lends itself well to the structure, and opulence of the fruit …

And just in case you missed it from a previous post, the greatest tasting note movie ever shot!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvCZz5lSafM

Wine Bloggers Tasting: The Acrostic Anagram Sessions!

December 29, 2010

Greetings all!

So, we’ve just very recently hosted the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2010 here at Monte Bello, and as always, it proved to be a delicious, and deliciously entertaining session. Many, many thanks to the bloggers who attended!

Wine Bloggers Tasting #4

With every one of these happenings, one of my tasks is to assemble the roster of wines that we’ll be tasting, and I always try and do this to a theme.

-For Session #1, we tasted exactly the same wines that Robert Parker had just reviewed, to see how the collective Blogger Palate matched up (I included a barrel sample of the ’08 Monte Bello, a five-vintage vertical of post-2000 Monte Bellos, plus the 1996 Monte Bello!) …

-For Session #2, we tasted all limited-production/winery-only Rhone varietal offerings …

-For Session #3 (held at Lytton Springs), we tasted a 10-vintage vertical of Lytton Springs …

So what to do for Session #4? Why, an Acrostic Anagram, of course!

Meaning, I poured an 11-wine flight with no discernible theme. I then explained to the bloggers that each wine’s label contributed one letter (just from the BIG letters, not every bit of fine print text!) to the puzzle. If they could guess the letters, and then get the letters in the right order, they’d find the secret phrase that gave us our theme! Because I poured the wines in the “proper” order for tasting, and not in the order of the letters, it was not only an acrostic, but an acrostic anagram!

Perhaps needless to say, when I explained my plan to a fellow Ridge staffer, I was called “a dork.”

Anyhow, care to play along? Here are the wines I selected, in the order poured:

Buchignani Ranch Carignane

East Bench

Lytton Estate Zinfandel/Primitivo

Geyserville

Nervo

Grenache

Independence School

Old School

Lytton West Syrah

Ridge Monte Bello

Geyserville Essence

Solved it yet? Ok, here’s a hint; as you’ll see below, I’ve bolded the relevant letter from each wine:

Buchignani Ranch Carignane

East Bench

Lytton Estate Zinfandel/Primitivo

Geyserville

Nervo

Grenache

Independence School

Old School

Lytton West Syrah

Ridge Monte Bello

Geyserville Essence

Got it now? No, not BELGNG IOWRE! You have to rearrange the letters! Got it now?

WINE BLOGGER

I am happy to report that Fred Swan, of the very great NorCalWine.com, was the first to successfully blurt out the correct answer. Congratulations Fred!

And lastly, a special thank you to Allan Bree, of the very great GangOfPour.com, for bringing the extraordinary trio of mystery wines we were all so fortunate to taste: 1993, 1994, and 1997 Ridge Vineyards Pagani Ranch Alicante Bouschet! How were they tasting? I think all involved agreed that “pretty” was by far and away the most appropriate descriptor, though I might add delicious, elegant, beautiful, extraordinary, enticing, and vibrant as well! Cheers Allan, that was such a treat!

Alicante Bouschet!

To close, a heartfelt thank you to Ridge Vineyards, all our participating wine bloggers, and everyone out there devotedly writing quality wine blogs; I feel very honored to be a part of both Ridge, and the wine blogger community, and 2010 was an extraordinary year for me in that regard, and for that, I thank you all! I am also very happy to report that we’ll be continuing this event is 2011, so cheers to the coming New Year!

Oh, one more thing, two other posts about this event have already gone up, you can find them here:

RJonWine

WineBookGirl

Enjoy!


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