Archive for the ‘Cabernet Franc’ Category

I Spy With My Little Eye … A 2006 Monte Bello!

December 30, 2011

I have been thinking about the 2006 Monte Bello lately. I remember it as a really fine and intense wine, but it’s been a while since I last tasted it. I need to fix that …

2006 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

The wine looks younger than young in the glass — a dazzlingly youthful presentation — with deep, rich purples and magentas plaited together in a luxuriant braid of viscously ambrosial succulence that atunes perfectly to the hearty berries and piquant umaminess of the bouquet. It must be said again, the youthful presentation is dazzling in its come-on. With some years of bottle age now at its disposal, the wine is still shy upon arrival, and takes a bit of coaxing to be drawn out. But as it emerges, a tremendous incrassation is enacted; oxygen working on wine, poetry working on life.

Mouthfeel is ever so slightly taut by comparison; architectural and tannin-driven, though the tannins themselves manage to be snowflake tender. The fruit is blacker at point-of-entry, near tenebrous in its intensity, yet with an eyebrow cocked. As the wine lands on the fat of the tongue, the viscidity spreads like ripples in a pond, laying lavish and opulent across the four-posts of the palate. There is the beginning of an herb and spice layer in development towards the middle of the journey southward, with an adumbration of clove, chicory, and pipe tobacco ghosting its silhouette upon the walls as the wine glissades onwards towards its finish.

The finish itself is the wine’s truest display of youthful circumspection; a demurement of coy promise sealed in a locked journal of poetic and impassionate angst. The hints are there, but the mystery is sealed. The wine closes off and leaves one with the tautness evident at first taste, though a shift from tannin to acid has upended the flavor paradigm somewhat. At first taste, I wanted a hard cheese —- high in salt, chalky in texture — to absorb the fruit, control and subdue the intensity, corral the plainsong wildness. Now, at final taste, I wish for Mt. Tam. Cowgirl Creamery, bless you your Monte-Bello-taming heart.

Cowgirl Creamery, Mt. Tam

 

And bless you, 2006 Monte Bello, it’s so very nice to see you again …
 
 

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holiday Packs are here!

October 28, 2011

It’s only October, I know, but in order to make certain we assemble the finest selection of wines possible to escort you through your holiday season, we begin the tasting process early, and I am now happy to report that the final collections have been confirmed. We are extremely excited by this year’s offerings, particularly as we’ve included a rather stunning array of library wines in the various packs, and we’re all extremely eager to share with you the results.

In order to kick things off properly, we scheduled an internal library tasting of wines included in the holiday packs, with members of the Ridge team participating from three different locations: our Warehouse in Milpitas (where both the warehouse and customer service groups are based), our Lytton Springs Estate, and here at Monte Bello. Using a web feed, winemakers Paul Draper and Eric Baugher led all three locations through the wines on offer, while yours truly manned the camera, and peppered our hosts with questions.

Paul Draper and myself, talking shop in advance of the tasting ...

(photo by Sonja Seaberg)

I think all concerned came away from the tasting feeling extremely excited by, and energized about, this year’s holiday selections; the wines are in tremendous form, and armed with all the additional insights we gleaned from the opportunity to taste with Paul and Eric, I think everyone is beside themselves with anticipation as regards talking these wines with you. And you, and you, and you …

 
For myself, I humbly offer the following tasting notes (to see more about this year’s holiday offerings, please click here):
 
 
 

2005 Ridge Vineyards Stone Ranch Zinfandel

While planted on Geyserville soil, these vines traditionally produce a lighter, more fruit-forward, more easy-drinking style, and accordingly, the fruit is often held out of the Geyserville assemblage, in favor of a separate bottling, under the Stone Ranch designation. Such was certainly the case in 2005; a notably ripe year.

 A kindred spirit of sorts to the Carmichael — another approachably fruit-driven ATP offering — the Stone Ranch nonetheless shows a slightly higher-tone profile, evidencing a more bramble-driven red-fruit character than the comparatively moodier Carmichael.

 To my palate, the carignane continues to lend great acidity to the overall mouthfeel, while allowing the chalkiness of the minerality pride of place simultaneously. Hints of oak-derived sweet vanillin speckle the early aromatics, while traces of coriander and citrus peel enliven the finish. With half a decade’s worth of bottle age, this wine has settled into a surprisingly (and rewardingly!) complex offering that nonetheless retains its youthful lightness and approachability.

 Should prove to be a great Autumnal offering, perfect with appetizers and first courses at the holiday table.

 2004 Ridge Vineyards Oltranti Zinfandel

 One of only two vintages crafted from the younger zinfandel planting on the legendary Mazzoni Home Ranch, this offering is as unique a wine as any released under the ATP banner. Buoyed by the small introductions of older vine carignane and petite sirah, this has historically been a notably tannin-forward, intensely structured offering. With approximately 5 years of bottle age woven into its fabric, it’s still a big wine; a strutting, cocksure wine with its money where its mouth is; meaning, the aromatics offer the promise, and the body delivers the goods.

Autumnality is front-and-center as regards its “at table” personality; loads of dried fruits on the nose, with shades of mincemeat, figs, and toasted nuts calling up all sorts of holiday reflections. The mouthfeel at point-of-entry is almost impossibly round; a mouthful of a mouthfeel, as it were. Not content to wow you with physical prowess, however, the Oltranti serves up some great tobacco, bramble, and forestation as well; the second and third-tier supporting characteristics give a unique lift to this fleshily omnipresent Atlas. A great offering to meet the middle of your holiday meal; the entrée!

2003 Ridge Vineyards Independence School

A true collector’s item in every sense of the term, this is the first release of what would become our Old School designation, and the only one to actually carry the “Independence School” name. This, as with the Stone Ranch, is ostensibly Geyserville fruit, but as with the Stone Ranch (though for very different reasons!), the blocks that make up this wine are held out of the Geyserville assemblage due to their singular personalities. In this wine’s case, the fruit is held out for a separate small-batch, winery-only offering in acknowledgement of its traditionally riper, sweeter, more fruit-forward character. Accordingly, expect unctuousness in spades, voluptuousness in decadently seasoned excess, and luxuriant fruit at all points across the palate.

While there is little that one could claim as tame about this wine, I am consistently and pleasantly surprised by its balance; this is an athlete of an offering; you experience the grace, and are hard-pressed to remember that it comes via endless hours in the weight room. A great wine with which to close a hearty holiday meal; cheeses, fruits, and chocolates should abound, as friendships are re-solidified, and family bonds affirmed.

“Dusi Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, 2006 & 2005

Quite a treat to taste these side-by-side! Benito Dusi’s ranch is such a legendary fixture of the Ridge portfolio, and while our Paso Robles zinfandel is one of our most consistently shaped offerings, it is often via the comparatively more mercurial Dusi Ranch designation that one comes to truly know and love these vines, and this vineyard. Traditionally comprised of blocks held out of the larger Paso Robles assemblage by virtue of their comparatively riper, sweeter profile, the Dusi is actually capable of not only showing unexpectedly complex characteristics, but evidencing authentically enticing seasonal variables as well.

These two vintages are, in many ways, a perfect study in contrast. Conventional wisdom (if anything about Ridge can be said to be conventional!) would certainly propose the Dusi offering as a ripe, warm-climate zinfandel, and the 2006 vintage does not disappoint in this regard. It wears its natural fruit on its shoulder, but also shows itself to have been (as it was) the product of a submerged cap fermentation; there are tannins, there is earth, and there is some darkness under all that concentratedly rich fruit. But fruit is the word, is the word, is the word …

That said, if you expect more of the same when heading into the ’05, be prepared for an adjustment of sorts. Sure, it’s still warm-climate, old-vine zin, and sure there is a lot of fruit on offer, but there is also acidity! Not something one normally expects from this combination of region and varietal. And in fact, there is a whole host of structural components on offer; in addition to acidity, there are some nicely coated and resolving tannins, there is some herbality and woodsiness, and there are some fine layers of fruit as well.

In October of ‘06, Eric Baugher gave a 5 to 6-year projection of longevity for this wine. Were that accurate, we’d be calling this wine to task right now, branding it as being at its peak. But when tasting this wine with Eric and Paul Draper today (October of ’11), I found I was not the only one who thought this wine had years of life still ahead; both Eric and Paul said it was going to “go out”; and go out it will. Certainly drinkable now, but if you want a rarefied library offering to sit on just a bit longer, this might just be your perfect catch.

“Estate Cabernet Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate (now Estate Cabernet), 2005, 2004, and 2003

I admit it. I am spoiled. This should have been one of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life. But I have to confess, I just tasted these wines rather recently, as part of the worldwide #CabernetDay celebration. That said, guess what this was? One of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life! Three truly tremendous vintages, of a truly tremendous wine, tasted in the company of Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and a whole host of my most excellent colleagues; priceless.

It would take pages upon pages to truly navigate the unique history of this designation, and its singular relationship to the Monte Bello, so suffice it to say that one might not be far off the mark in suggesting that, with the 2003 vintage, this designation truly came into its own, emerging out of the shadow of the Monte Bello as its own wine; grown, harvested, and vinted in similar fashion, beneficiary of an equally intense attention to detail, but selected and assembled with an altogether different overarching aesthetic in mind.

Put another way, it’s a hell of a wine, and particularly for the price; meaning, from a price break to quality standpoint, you rarely get this much wine for this little of an investment. And the 2003 is where this really and truly becomes the indisputable case.

All that said, the tasting begins with the 2005. The only vintage of the trio without Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the assemblage, this wine perfectly enacts the growing season that year; preposterously low yields (less than 1 ton an acre) resulting in a deep, dark, concentrated, structure-forward profile. The nose is all chocolate and campfire and s’mores, and the mid-palate is all gluttony and indulgence. That said, it’s still a frighteningly balanced wine; frightening in that it manages to pack all that baroque romanticism and architectural decadence into an almost sexually-charged come-on; you want this wine, because it moves so well, but at the same time, you can’t help but sense the primality lurking just below the surface. One to watch, one to wish for, one to covet.

The 2004 is an altogether different animal, the product of a perversely unusual growing season; one in which the harvesting of Monte Bello (the estate) was essentially bisected; early picking on one side of the October rains, late picking the other. The resulting wine, I will confess, is one of my personal favorites. To borrow a colloquialism, it’s just my kind of funky. It’s a bit rustic, a bit earthy, a bit dirty, a bit bluesy. In short, delicious! The big “B” gets thrown around a lot in wine circles (Bordeaux), much the same way that “Genius” is oft-misused by certain rather purple-y writers in the various arts fields; meaning, if I had a dollar for every tired, derivative, re-hashed, substance-less wine, poem, play, novel, song, album painting, etc. … Anyhow, the point is, that still, to this day, “Bordeaux” is prized as the ultimate comparative; “In a blind tasting, I would have sworn this was a first growth!” And while that’s instructive in certain realms, and nonsensical in others, it serves a purpose here, because this is truly cause for a pause; if your wish is to embrace an American producer who can very successfully and authentically produce wines that are fully in line with all that we hold dear about the legitimately still-great Bordeaux producers, all while doing so in uniquely American fashion, and on top of that, at disarmingly populist price breaks, then please, do yourself a favor, and find a way to drink this wine. It’s just that kind of excellent.

And finally, we return to the 2003, which, as Paul himself noted, is really and truly coming into its own. If you want to seriously wow your holiday table guests, without digging too deep into your cellar, or into your wallet, just serve this out of decanter, and watch the mouths drop. This is a serious, serious wine, and it lacks nothing, and I mean nothing, when compared to bottles of twice the price break, if not more.

 

Monte Bello 2010: The Final Assemblage Event In Pics, Glorious Pics!

May 31, 2011

There is something about the Final Assemblage Event that weighs both happier and heavier upon my viticultural soul; essentially, this is it, the final, the penultimate. We, who taste, are it. The very first and the very last. What we taste at this event is the very same assemblage of juice that, with bottle age enacted, you, your children, your loved ones, will be tasting 10-20-30-40-50 years from now, this very same wine I/we are tasting on this day. A wedding? A funeral? Birth, death, anniversaries, nothing is too important that it can’t be enhanced by the presence of wine at its finest, and believe you me, this 2010 Monte Bello is WINE AT ITS FINEST!

If my prayers have any play, what you tasted today, will be there for you in all the decades coming …

And for history’s sake, let’s just look a bit at it as it all played out, the FINAL, FINAL, FINAL 2010 assemblage …

Judgment of Paris: Let the Anniversary Celebration BEGIN!

April 30, 2011

Elvis on Ed Sullivan.

Elvis Presley on The Ed Sullivan Show

 Jimi Hendrix playing The Star Spangled Banner at Woodstock.

Jimi Hendrix at Woodstock

 The publishing of Kerouac’s On The Road.

Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady, on the cover of "On the Road"

 The publication of “The Autobiography of Malcolm X”

Alex Haley and Malcolm X

The staging of Ridgely Torrence’s “Three Plays for a Negro Theatre.”

Ridgely Torrence

The release of “Smells Like Teen Spirit”

Nirvana

 

American Music, Literature, Art. They would never be the same again. These are the moments that change forever the tides of our cultural history.

The production of well-made wine is an artisan enterprise. It is artistic, it is cultural. And like all things cultural, it changes. It is subject to whim and cataclysm both.

As Stephen Jay Gould posited decades ago, Darwinism, be it social or otherwise, is not necessarily a slow, steady arc of change. It is often stagnation and complacency, eviscerated and recalibrated by sudden, dramatic paradigm shifts that forever change the courses of development.

Thirty-five years ago this month, such an event happened to the world of wine, and specifically, to America. To California. We know this event now as The Judgment of Paris.

1976, The first Judgment of Paris

For a fuller run-down on what exactly this historic event was all about, please click here. The short version is this; in a blind tasting  in 1976, with a panel of some of the finest palates in the world of wine — a tasting that pitted the grand old houses of Bordeaux against what were then the upstart young turks of the Californian “new world” — the bulk of the top honors went to the Californians. A viticultural “shot heard around the world.”

Or was it? Had California truly “arrived?” The French response to the tasting (a response shared by many members of the viticultural intelligentsia) was twofold: a) the wines may have showed well, but they would never age, and b) it was a fluke.

Despite the fact that sales patterns changed almost overnight (suddenly, “fine wine” didn’t just come from Europe any more), the rumblings of doubt continued to be felt.

Finally, the question could lay unanswered no longer, it had to be addressed! So, in 2006, 30 years later, the reenactment was staged. To address the issue of ageability, all the original red wine vintages were tasted. To answer the “fluke” question, young Cabernets were tasted.

2006, The Reenactment

If you’re reading this blog, you likely know what happened. The 1971 Monte Bello, which had come in second behind Stag’s Leap amongst the California producers (and 5th overall out of the top 10) in the original tasting, swept the results, taking top honors at both the London and Napa tastings. And the 2000 Monte Bello won the young Cabernet competition.

So much for the debate. Questions answered, argument over.

Starting May 1st, and running through May 24th (the actual anniversary day for both tastings), we will be celebrating this historic happening, and specifically, the incomparably significant role the Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello played in these dramas. Here are the details:

–Judgement of Paris Anniversary–

May 24 marks the 5th anniversary of the re-enactment and the 35th anniversary of the original tasting. In celebration of these historic occasions, we are offering special pricing on our 2007 Monte Bello through May 24.

$125 through May 24 (regularly $145)

Special Member Pricing

Monte Bello Collector Members – $100 (750mL)

ATP & Z List Members – $115

Click here to purchase

Click here to learn about membership

Click here to learn about the Paris Tasting

We are proudly pouring the 2007 Monte Bello in our tasting rooms, and we invite you to share in this delicious taste of history.

Assemblage Monte Bello! 4.23.11

April 5, 2011

From the Desks, Quills, and Wells of our PR Department:

Ridge Vineyards welcomes you to join in the Assemblage process and be among the first to taste barrel samples of the new 2010 Monte Bello!

This year’s Assemblage Monte Bello event provides you and your guests a special opportunity to experience the splendor of the Monte Bello estate. Plus, you’ll meet and mingle with the winemaking & productions teams as you sample an additional selection of rare library wines, and enjoy a delicious array of cheeses, breads and charcuterie from some of our favorite local artisan producers.

Special culinary guests for this event include:

Gayle’s Bakery (come meet owners/founders Gayle and Joe Ortiz!)

Cowgirl Creamery (say hello to owner/founder Sue Conley!)

—Fatted Calf Charcuterie (hand-slicing organic, hormone-free charcuterie on-site with their turn-of-the-century Italian slicer!)

Providing the sonic backdrop for this wonderful event will be Real Time, a highly esteemed Northern California jazz combo featuring Tim Jackson (manager of the Monterey Jazz Festival) and Marshall Otwell (Freddie Hubbard, Zoot Sims, Carmen McRae).

Tickets for this event are available on our website (please click here to purchase), and can be purchased for $40/person. Ticket purchase will add your name to an RSVP Will Call list, and your email confirmation acts as your purchase confirmation.

We look forward to hosting you!

A Seat At The Table: A Day In Which I Am Invited To Participate In The 2010 Assemblage Tasting!

March 3, 2011

It was with great anticipation and an understandable degree of nervousness that I hoisted a full rack of Riedels into the back of my car, settled in behind the wheel, and commenced the drive up from the tasting room to the upper winery. I had been invited to join the Monte Bello First Assemblage Tasting, and was acutely aware of what this meant; this was to be history quite literally in the making, and I was to be an active participant.

Monte Bello Road never looked so beautiful. Most of the vines had already been pruned, and they stood in their erratic rows riding the undulant slopes like thin adolescents nervous in the company of others, yet somehow noble in their certainty of belonging in the world. Those that had not yet been pruned seemed so wild by comparison; frozen in a moment of windy delight, the delicate tendrils of their frames arching and twisting in the swelling morning sunlight.

I had never yet had the honor of attending an assemblage tasting, and knew nothing of what to expect, yet somehow, as I entered the room to find Eric Baugher hunched over a countertop’s worth of decanters, beakers, funnels, and an iPhone set on Calculator, it was as if I’d seen it all in a dream. I hadn’t of course, but it was that kind of familiar. Within me the ratio of fear to excitement began to shift; I was calming even as my heart began to beat a little faster.

For those of you who may not be familiar with the process by which Monte Bello is brought to fruition, or “assembled,” I’ll do my best to offer a brief description, but to do this requires a return to the vineyard, for it’s there where the process truly begins. Ridge Vineyards practices something called “Differential Harvesting,” or “Sub-Parcel Harvesting.” It’s a viticultural methodology deployed in the service of capturing every micro-climatic nuance that may exist even within the boundaries of a single vineyard designation. Imagine an artist’s palette, flush with a rich and ripe array of shades, hues, and colors. It is with this range of options that a painter builds their work, relying on each idiosyncratic variation available on a color by color basis. A masterwork couldn’t be possible without the singularity of these microtonal variations being on offer. If the colors were all swirled together, the artist would end up with one amorphous, indistinct, and characterless tone with which to try and make something special; a near impossibility given the circumstances. Such is the same for a vineyard. Take a property like Monte Bello, with all its near-endless variabilities: slopes and valleys, young vines and old; north-running rows and west-running rows; near-constant sunlight and covering shade; mineral shifts and crop cover changes. Harvest this all together? Why, you’d be insane to! The preservation of each individual micro-climatic singularity makes a masterwork possible; not easy, mind you, but possible!

Differential and/or Sub-Parcel harvesting essentially simply means that we sub-divide the entire vineyard up into much smaller parcels; we then harvest each “lot” (or “block’) separately, in order to preserve it as a potential “ingredient” in the final assemblage (or “blend”) of Monte Bello. It’s essentially a way of eking maximum complexity and consistent individuality out of a property in the service of creating a supremely complex wine, without having to rely on trickery or retroactive corrections to achieve a desired result. Each block is separately harvested, and separately fermented, preserving its fruit as a pure and authentic expression of that portion of the vineyard, and rendering it a unique, and uniquely natural, ingredient on offer to the final assemblage of Monte Bello.

Which brings us back to the winery, and to the assemblage tasting. The assemblage tasting is essentially the system by which fermented juice from each lot is first independently assessed, and then assessed again in the context of an assemblage, or blend. The First Assemblage Tasting is accordingly exactly as titled; it is the first time the tasting team generates and creates an assemblage. Will it end up becoming the final Monte Bello? Only time will tell …

The great wooden table is both practical and elegant, functional and beautiful. Looming through the windows are fermentors and all the other apparatuses of a working winery, and sounding in the background are the thumps of pumps and the cheerful whistles of the crew as they go about the nuts and bolts business of making wine. On the table itself, one of my favorite sights; a tasting about to happen. Clear and shimmering glassware in perfect synchronicity, baskets of fresh artisan bread warm in the low light, wedges of rich and moist cheeses, carafes of water and bottles of olive oil. Soon each empty chair will be filled with a taster, before whom will wait a lined yellow notebook and a pen; these begin clean, but by day’s end they’ll be stained a mosaic of vivid purples, garnets, and ruby, as will teeth and tongues, fingers and napkins.

I begin by shadowing Eric for nearly 45 minutes; an intricate dance to say the least, as he barely leaves his place the entire time. By shadowing, I mean I follow each movement of a finger, each splash into a bottle, each tap upon a key, each mark of a pencil, all the while peppering him with questions. I have joined the second day’s tasting, so I have much to catch up on. How many blocks have “made the cut” so far? How many will comprise our core, and how many will be tested for potential inclusion? How large was each block, and where is it planted? I go dizzy a bit trying to keep it all straight, but the gist emerges to be this; 24 lots are still in the running, the smallest of which is about 2 barrels worth of juice, the largest about 14 barrels. All are solo varietal lots, save for one co-fermented cabernet sauvignon-cabernet franc option. Of these 24, 9 have been selected as the “core” assemblage for the tasting to come (this is the “control” we will commence the tasting with; please see below), and 4 have been held out completely for the time being, leaving 11 additional lots to be cycled in and tasted.

One by one, the other attendees enter the room. In the end, we will be Davis-trained Shun Ishikubo (Assistant Production Manager), Shinji Kurosawa (assisting at Crush and Assemblage each year), David Gates (Vice President of Vineyard Operations), Caleb Mosley (Monte Bello Vineyard Manager), myself, Karen Schmidt (Director of Quality Control/Chemist), John Olney (Vice President of Winemaking, Lytton Springs), Eric Baugher (Vice President of Winemaking, Monte Bello), and Paul Draper. This is how we’re seated, and I am grateful for the order, as it means 4 other participants will have to voice their tasting notes before it’s my turn! It’s a remarkable group of individuals, and I am struck, not for the first time, at the illustrious company I’ve somehow found myself with. My ratio starts to go a tad haywire; the fear level rises…

I take my seat. Eric is directly behind me, still methodically pouring, measuring, and labeling. There are four wine glasses before me, plus a bread plate, olive oil dish, water glass, and spit cup. I have achieved nirvana! No, this is to be my bodhisattva moment; I will discover enlightenment, yet remain amongst the world and all its sensorial complexities. In short, I am happy. To be a fly on the wall, a gift. To have a seat at the table, an honor. To lift a glass to the mouth, an awakening.

I must pause and insist it’s not hagiography I’m after in penning these thoughts in such fashion, nor do I wish to suggest that all was solemn, portentous, and reverent. Rather, the proceedings were often comical, loose, even ribald, with laughter regularly gracing our shared airwaves. But when the silence returned, and noses returned to glasses, heads bent over notebooks, and pens began to scratch, it was as meditative, focused, and inspiring as any zendo in the world.

The tasting begins. Two of my four glasses are filled. One glass holds the 9-lot “control”, the other contains the “Control + 1”; it has had a lot added. The tasting is “blind,” no one knows which glass contains which. The tasting begins.

Retroactively deciphering tasting notes from an affair such as this can be daunting to say the least. I am an oenophilic Dead Sea scholar today, trying to reach my fingers through the seams of history to unearth a language long forgotten.

At a certain unspoken point, you feel the air change in the room. Is it so simple as Paul’s head coming up from the page, or Eric softly sighing as he stretches out his back in the confines of his chair? Was that the sound of pens being laid down? Or did some hidden and inaudible dog-whistle-high clock sound an important tone, such that we all somehow know it’s time to speak again?

It’s time to speak again. We’ve committed to our preferences — A or B — and translated them in secret to Eric. He has collated our commitments, and now we must go public. Directly to Paul’s left, Shun begins … As he speaks, I pour over my scribbles. He notes notes of cedar, yes! I got that too. And absolutely the black cherry! But then, wow! Yogurt? And pepper? Oh god, I’m out of my league, what am I doing here, I have the palate of a baseball bat … No, I’m ok, I got the plum too.

Eventually it’s my turn. I begin on the “A” glass. I note the range of cherry, from Michigan Sour to deep black. I find both black and white pepper, and a slightly sweet wood character. I declare tremendously vibrant acidity, a touch of the piquant, a slightly granular rendition of tannins … In the end, it’s a very, very close vote. “A” gets 5 votes, “B” gets four. I have a quick and silent giggle to note that I am on “The A Team.” But which is the control, and which had the addition? “A,” it turns out, had the addition, 18% from Black Hill. But will the majority rule? It does, “A” (with the addition) will be the new control for the second flight.

And on it goes, round after round, flight after flight, taste after taste, addition after addition. Not all decisions are so close. Flight 2 was a 7-to-2 vote; again, the addition won. Flight 3 was another 5/4; it instigated a thorough discussion about sweet and savory characteristics; the umami factor. The word “brooding” comes up for the first time in Flight 3, though not for the last time. By flight 7, we were up to a 15-lot assemblage. But we were worried. John Olney had to leave, leaving us with only 8 tasters; we had no tie-breaker. Sure enough, Flight 7 proved a dead-on tie; 4 for, 4 against. In the end, we stayed with the control. Probably more so than any other factor, the question of tannin exposure reigned supreme; a particularly fascinating discussion, to say the least. Tasting with the production team is a very different experience than tasting with, say, sommeliers, or distributor reps, or with our Tasting Room staff. The semantics change, the palate calibration differs, the process is unique. When tannin is discussed, the question of “coating” is omnipresent; to what extent are the tannins coated or exposed? Meaning, does the fruit “cover” the tannin effectively? I think of it like this; tannin and acidity, these are the beams and girders, fruit is the walls that fill the building in. If I can “see” the tannins, then the house is either not finished, or inappropriately built (certain modernist excesses notwithstanding!).

Flight 8 saw us in the trenches again; another nail-biter. A Herculean effort would be required; for flight 9, we would carry over 2 controls, with two additions. A four-wine flight in the 11th hour. The boxer arises from his stool for the final round, legs a little shaky, gloves seeming so much heavier than they were in Round 1. This is fatigue. Palate fatigue however, was not the primary challenge; the true difficulty lay in the fact that all four wines were outstanding! How to differentiate? And by what standards? This is when the Sangha goes quiet, and the Roshi speaks. As with any koan, the answer, once spoken, is so obvious. What is “classic” Monte Bello?

After 6 ½ hours of uninterrupted tasting, we were purple of teeth and purple of tongue; fingers coated with a strange slurry of wine and olive oil; spit cups emptied ten times over. Our once pristine glasses were Pollockian in character; wild streaks marking the passions of a moment. But we were there. A First Assemblage! 16 individually excellent lots coming together to make an assemblage of astonishing concentration, power, and depth. One final hurdle, however, remained; we needed to test our creation against other recent vintages, to make sure our internal calibrations hadn’t strayed too far into insularity. Again in blind fashion, Eric disappeared this new 2010 somewhere amidst a roster comprised of 2007, 2008, and 2009. Four glasses. The Final Countdown. Ignition Sequence Initiated. T Minus 4 vintages and counting. We have lift off. The 2010 is a classic.

Driving back down the mountain, I was exhausted in a way I’ve rarely experienced; sort of a glazed-over daze that leaves one both enervated and drained. A 7 hour wine tasting. Even Paul, he having presided over so many of these events, so many of them now the stuff of legend, looked a bit winded when I left him. Yet he also looked happy. That simple word; happy. All these years, the accolades and awards, the canonizations and deifications, the decades of work, reward and work, and here was a man who was happy. As were we all.

Eric Baugher, the marionette to all our limbs throughout the tasting, our guide through the valley of taste and possibility, perhaps played us as a wistful Fur Elise, placing each note as if it had been written for the first clock at the beginning of time, letting us bask in the sounds of our own bittersweet elegance.

To my fellow Assemblagers,

Shun, it’s a joy to hear you express your observations; it’s not the singularity of your perceptions per se, but how they penetrate. And you Shinji, are the embodiment of wine as joy and thoughtfulness. David, you are the cowboy king on the great viticultural plains; the craggy gravitas of a Marlboro Man cloaking the heart of a Buddhist farmer. Caleb, you were old and wise before you were born, I collect your thoughts like psalms. Karen, never before have the words “Quality” and “Control” been more appropriately hung on someone; your palate is precision and stability, your observations are consistency and clarity. John, may the fates grant me more opportunities to taste wine through your eyes. Eric, you’re my teacher, may I have the chance to shadow you again and again and again. And of you Paul, what new could I say that’s not been said before? So I thank you, and offer you, the great wine philosopher that you are, these beautiful lines from the great poet Li Po:

To wash and rinse our souls of their age-old sorrows,
We drained a hundred jugs of wine.
A splendid night it was . . . .

2010 Harvest Report!

February 23, 2011

If you’re a member of our Monte Bello Collector program and/or have an interest in Monte Bello, or perhaps just like to keep up on microclimatic tendencies on our lil’ mountain, then you might wish to know that winemaker Eric Baugher has completed the 2010 Harvest Report!

Harvest 2010

It’s been an extraordinary growing season across all of Northern California’s wine countries, and I imagine ours is not the only harvest report that will be read with some interest; all aspects of the press have been full of assessments running from the dire to the devout, with naysayers predicting doom and gloom and the optimistic touting a vintage of rare but spectacular offerings.

We are certainly of the latter school; as Eric notes below, “Despite the temperamental year, we couldn’t have asked for anything finer than what nature finally gave us.”

And with that, I give you the 2010 Monte Bello Harvest Report!

At Monte Bello, a cold, drawn-out winter brought heavy, ground-saturating rains. Budbreak was delayed a month— pushed back to late April at the 2700′ level. Persistent rain and cold weather through June delayed fruit set to early July. Fortunately the rain let up, and for most of summer, our elevation kept the vines above the fog. There were, however, more than the usual number of days when fog and cold crept up and over the ridge. All signs pointed to this being one of the latest Monte Bello harvests in Ridge history.

Careful adjustment of yields can make or break a vintage. Given the cold season, and weather volatility over the past five years, we thinned even before the fruit had changed from green to red (veraison). To improve odds of ripening the crop before any rain, we dropped 45% of the young cabernet and merlot, and 20 to 25% on everything else. Unexpectedly, the weather warmed in September, only to cool again in early October. Miraculously, heat returned in the last half of October. Harvest at Monte Bello began with chardonnay, picked from September 26 to October 19, and continued with merlot (October 3 – 28) and cabernet sauvignon (October 15 – November 5). From the start, petit verdot was the farthest behind. We had thinned half the crop after veraison, and installed reflective material below the vines on alternating rows to enhance photosynthesis. The grapes responded, ripening far more quickly than expected. Picked on October 15, they were the ripest of all the blocks.

The forty vineyard parcels were subdivided into forty-nine separate fermentations. Roughly half were from parcels designated Monte Bello, half from those designated Estate. All but a handful were sorted at the crush station. The sorting machinery, installed for the 2009 vintage, had a new component—another conveying table. This gave us a chance to do one last sort before pumping to the fermentors. Natural yeasts were healthy, and quick to start. Color and tannin were abundant, extracting rapidly. For most tanks, pump-overs were scaled back. Toward the end of fermentation, based on taste, we performed a final pump-over to fill out body, then racked and pressed. Most of the press wine was too tannic to blend immediately into the free run. These press fractions were pumped to individual barrels. Later—again determined by tasting—we may include some of the most balanced press wine.

At this time, the various lots have been put to barrel and are finishing malolactic. The incredible flavors we noticed in the fermentors have developed further. Depth of structure and complexity are unlike any past vintage. Despite the temperamental year, we couldn’t have asked for anything finer than what nature finally gave us. It was an exhausting few months for us all, but the vines have produced a truly magnificent vintage. EB (1/11)



Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2010

On November 23rd of 2009, I posted a “Things I’m Thankful For …” list on this blog, in the spirit of the coming Thanksgiving holiday. I’d like to offer a new list for 2010 (though there may be the occasional overlap!) …

Things I’m Thankful For:

That despite a list of shortcoming that rivals the biblical begats, the gods and fates and powers-that-be have nonetheless chosen to bless me with an absolute miracle of a delight of a wonder of a wife, and a daughter who is to me perfection and miracles and magic …

The blessing of great parents, who are young, healthy, vibrant, and close by, and who love their children and their grand-children …

That the 1993 Monte Bello, in 375ml format, has really come into its own …

Friends near and far …

John Coltrane …

Lambchopper cheese, which is just SO good …

Han-Shan’s Cold Mountain Poems …

That the collective wisdom of Ridge Vineyards is just bent enough to have bestowed upon me the honor and opportunity of hosting this blog …

Pizza … especially mushroom and jalapeno pizza. Especially when I’m putting a piece of it into my mouth, when my mouth still has half-a-quaff’s worth of Ridge Vineyards Geyserville in it …

The new wireless surround-sound speakers that Chuck O’ Connor helped us get for the Monte Bello Tasting Room …

The book Zen Mind, Beginner’s Mind …

Decanters with a rounded glass lip instead of cut glass …

That just about everyone who visits our tasting room knows not to rinse their glass with water between tastes …

Monterey Bay, and the whales who breach up from its depths into the murk and mist of a winter dusk when you’re standing on the beach with your very pregnant fiancée, wondering what on earth is going to become of you all …

Acidity, and the palates that love it …

That the 2008 Pagani Ranch just sings, and sings, and sings …

That Paul Draper and Eric Baugher and David Gates and Caleb Mosley  have all  been so kind with their time, slowly ushering me into the vast halls of their collective knowledge of vineyards, wineries, and all that Monte Bello mojo …

That everyone else at Ridge has been so equally kind to me …

Lloyd’s Tires in Santa Cruz, and the Mazda company; without them, I’d never survive the Capitola-Monte Bello commute …

Haig’s Hummus. Not only because it’s the greatest hummus in all the world’s long history, but also because it pairs so well with our chardonnays …

That Ryan Moore and his lovely missus Dulcie have joined the Ridge family …

Flat-bottom glasses and the third-day Monte Bello I drink from them …

Moleskine notebooks …

That my daughter, at 22 months, can already play a bit of piano, and a bit of saxophone, and that, when she wakes up from a nap, she turns to one of the posters on her walls and says, “Wake up, Miles Davis!” …

Head-trained and dry-farmed vines …

Every single member of the Monte Bello Tasting Room Staff …

That Sandy Johnson has been named the Lytton Springs Tasting Room Manager … and every single member of the Lytton Springs Tasting Room Staff …

That we double-decant every wine before we serve it in the tasting rooms …

Pesto …

More pesto …

That those who got a tattoo (permanent) just because it was a trend (not permanent) will in some way or another eventually get their just desserts …

Sportcoats …

Champys …

Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps …

That I own a piano …

Drinking wine and playing piano …

Drinking wine and listening to someone else play piano …

Drinking wine …

The phrase “evidencing secondary maturation characteristics” …

All the wine bloggers who’ve been a part of our Wine Bloggers Tastings …

That almost everyone who works for Ridge has really groovy footwear …

Indian food, specifically Punjab Choley, paired with Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane …

Listening to Perry Farrell of Jane’s Addiction sing “Comin’ Down The Mountain” when I’m comin’ down the mountain …

The Pneumonia’s Last Syrah campaign …

Non-sequiturs …

Horizontal tastings of a wine in multiple bottle formats … especially when I’m in charge of decanting and tasting everything before the wines are served … and particularly if it’s Lytton Springs …

Manual typewriters. Particularly Underwoods, Royals, and Remingtons …

My daughter’s giggle …

My wife’s giggle …

People who read both Rilke and Bukowski …

People who drink both Three Valleys and Monte Bello …

Chelsea Boots from Wales and PF Flyer Tenny-Runners …

Drinking Ridge Vineyards Carmichael zin while wearing Chelsea Boots from Wales, or drinking the Ridge Vineyards Mazzoni Home Ranch zin while wearing PF Flyer Tenny-Runners …

Every work in charcoal that my very talented missus has ever made …

That someone believed in me enough to publish a book of my poems, and that a wonderful work in charcoal by my very talented missus graces the cover of that book …

That Nicole Buttitta didn’t think it was prohibitively weird that my first interview with Ridge was a phone interview, with her in her office at Monte Bello, and me in a 28 ft. truck at a truck stop in Wyoming …

That on Thelonious Monk’s birthday, we are able to play 8 straight hours of his music in the Monte Bello Tasting Room …

The magnum of 1989 Monte Bello that we’ll be having on Thanksgiving …

The 2006 & 2007 Monte Bello chardonnays that we’ll be having on Thanksgiving …

The couple that brought the last third of their bottle of 1964 Monte Bello into the Monte Bello Tasting Room for everyone to taste, the morning after they’d opened it and found it to be delicious …

Wine nerds who keep handwritten tasting notes for years …

My new  Ducti Duct-Tape wallet that my missus got me,which is a replacement that the company provided when she mailed my raggedy old one back …

Film noir …

William Faulkner …

Every word between the first word of Winnie-The-Pooh and the last word of The House at Pooh Corner …

California; specifically the northern part …

The view of Northern California from Monte Bello …

That the Rattlesnake Sign is real …

The half-bottles of 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Cabernet that I still have, and that I’m going to be drinking and sharing more than one of them on Thanksgiving …

Tasting Room staff who stick by their guns and always ask for proper ID …

Unorthodox food and wine pairings, like Cabernet Franc and Enchiladas …

People who understand why real funk players hated disco …

People who like to argue about vintages of Monte Bello while smiling …

People who wear black-frame sunglasses, and don’t wear white-frame sunglasses …

People who understand Coupe glasses, and why they’re the only way to drink champys …

Wine Bars that don’t play rock n’ roll OR electronica …

Ridge Vineyards wines …

Ridge Vineyards …

That I have a job at Ridge Vineyards …

And every single other thing I could mention, including Watsonville Sourdough, the poems of James Wright, well-played pratfalls, the elegance of the 1992 Monte Bello and the funky muscularity of the 1994, books, Sketches of Spain, what a really important wine tasting looks like when you’ve set up all the glassware but no one has arrived yet, the sound of cork extraction, my gorgeous amazing wife and my beautiful astonishing daughter, people who not only write poetry but read it, fog, mist, and rain, long black wool winter coats, people who nod knowingly when I quote Robert Pete Williams, burdock and wasabi, wine-colored socks, people who can wear suspenders and get away with it, a great hat, sediment in wine, wine in my mouth, cars that don’t have bumperstickers, e-mails sans emoticons, and the persistence of love and faith and belief in the face of hurt, danger, illness, age, and violence.

May your lives be full of things to be thankful for, and may you be thankful for the fullness of your lives. May you have a chance to stop, breathe, and appreciate. May you have lots of wine in your home, and lots of beauty to toast. May you use the word love in more than one context very soon. May you have a very happy Thanksgiving.


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