Archive for the ‘Bordeaux varietals’ Category

A Vineyard In Winter -or- Of Course You Can Go Home Again, But Is There Someone Waiting? -or- Homecomings Of The Wine Gnome

January 10, 2012

The Vineyard in Winter.

It strikes me that a January vine is not unlike an empty-nested parent. The children are gone now. Bouncing from weird relationship to weird relationship. Bouncing checks. Bouncing in beanbags that obscure the growth of mushrooms in the carpets of unsightly crashpads and apartments. Will they come home to do laundry this vacation? I DO make the best grilled cheese still, I do!

The Vineyard in Winter. The children are gone now. Bottled up, distributed, reviewed.

It occurs to me, sipping on this 2006 Monte Bello; when did you see your parents last? You should say hello. They miss you. They want to know how you’re doing. Good sales? Good scores? I know, I know, you’re all about DEVELOPMENT, but can I help, as a parent, if I wonder whether Parker gave you good scores?

I’m taking you home. To see your parents. You’ve been in bottle long enough. They’ll be proud of you. You’re delicious. Let’s go see them.

It’s good to be home.

Wait a second, where’d you go???

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

It’s Over!

November 10, 2011

It’s over!

As of yesterday, Wednesday, November 9th, Harvest 2011 ended for Ridge Vineyards. With the last grape in off Monte Bello, we can now close the book on one of the more unusual and challenging growing seasons in recent history. That said, at least certainly in our experience, unusual and challenging often translates to extraordinary, concentrated, and delicious. That very much looks to be the case for the 2011 vintage. Here is winemaker Eric Baugher, with some recent perspective on #Harvest2011, penned just prior to the final round of picking on Monte Bello:

The vintage is coming along nicely, just about finished and only have the few parcels at the upper vineyard remaining to harvest this week. We rushed to pick ahead of last Thursday’s storm, and fortunately pulled in a large amount of fruit ahead of the small amount of rainfall that hit. Wind and plenty of sunshine will dry the remaining grapes for harvest to finish this Wednesday. Typically, the harvest at Monte Bello takes five or more weeks from start to finish, but this year we will have completed it in less than two weeks. Sampling grapes early on, we saw less separation of ripeness between lower, middle, and upper vineyards and within the Bordeaux varietals. We knew that the moment the grapes achieved full ripeness, they’d all be ready to harvest at the same time. Our Monte Bello vineyard team was supplemented with additional crew from our Sonoma vineyards in order to pick double the amount of fruit each day. In the winery, the lots have been fermenting quite well, extracting very deep color and full bodies. Tannin extraction is, as usual, something we watch closely and taste carefully to decide when to press. So far, we are fermenting out to about eight days, and giving the tanks slightly more aerated pump-over time so that a rich tannin structure can develop. A vintage wrought with challenging weather, has actually yielded some amazing quality, especially once the warm weather returned mid-October and intensified flavors. The stress on the vines was unlike any other year, but they made it through and this stress has translated into wines with extraordinary color, flavor, and aging potential.

And with that, we say fare thee well Harvest 2011, it’s been a fascinating season!

To see a quick video of our seemingly ever-multiplying sorting tables in action as the final berries enter the winery, please click below …

video footage shot by Amy Monroe

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holiday Packs are here!

October 28, 2011

It’s only October, I know, but in order to make certain we assemble the finest selection of wines possible to escort you through your holiday season, we begin the tasting process early, and I am now happy to report that the final collections have been confirmed. We are extremely excited by this year’s offerings, particularly as we’ve included a rather stunning array of library wines in the various packs, and we’re all extremely eager to share with you the results.

In order to kick things off properly, we scheduled an internal library tasting of wines included in the holiday packs, with members of the Ridge team participating from three different locations: our Warehouse in Milpitas (where both the warehouse and customer service groups are based), our Lytton Springs Estate, and here at Monte Bello. Using a web feed, winemakers Paul Draper and Eric Baugher led all three locations through the wines on offer, while yours truly manned the camera, and peppered our hosts with questions.

Paul Draper and myself, talking shop in advance of the tasting ...

(photo by Sonja Seaberg)

I think all concerned came away from the tasting feeling extremely excited by, and energized about, this year’s holiday selections; the wines are in tremendous form, and armed with all the additional insights we gleaned from the opportunity to taste with Paul and Eric, I think everyone is beside themselves with anticipation as regards talking these wines with you. And you, and you, and you …

 
For myself, I humbly offer the following tasting notes (to see more about this year’s holiday offerings, please click here):
 
 
 

2005 Ridge Vineyards Stone Ranch Zinfandel

While planted on Geyserville soil, these vines traditionally produce a lighter, more fruit-forward, more easy-drinking style, and accordingly, the fruit is often held out of the Geyserville assemblage, in favor of a separate bottling, under the Stone Ranch designation. Such was certainly the case in 2005; a notably ripe year.

 A kindred spirit of sorts to the Carmichael — another approachably fruit-driven ATP offering — the Stone Ranch nonetheless shows a slightly higher-tone profile, evidencing a more bramble-driven red-fruit character than the comparatively moodier Carmichael.

 To my palate, the carignane continues to lend great acidity to the overall mouthfeel, while allowing the chalkiness of the minerality pride of place simultaneously. Hints of oak-derived sweet vanillin speckle the early aromatics, while traces of coriander and citrus peel enliven the finish. With half a decade’s worth of bottle age, this wine has settled into a surprisingly (and rewardingly!) complex offering that nonetheless retains its youthful lightness and approachability.

 Should prove to be a great Autumnal offering, perfect with appetizers and first courses at the holiday table.

 2004 Ridge Vineyards Oltranti Zinfandel

 One of only two vintages crafted from the younger zinfandel planting on the legendary Mazzoni Home Ranch, this offering is as unique a wine as any released under the ATP banner. Buoyed by the small introductions of older vine carignane and petite sirah, this has historically been a notably tannin-forward, intensely structured offering. With approximately 5 years of bottle age woven into its fabric, it’s still a big wine; a strutting, cocksure wine with its money where its mouth is; meaning, the aromatics offer the promise, and the body delivers the goods.

Autumnality is front-and-center as regards its “at table” personality; loads of dried fruits on the nose, with shades of mincemeat, figs, and toasted nuts calling up all sorts of holiday reflections. The mouthfeel at point-of-entry is almost impossibly round; a mouthful of a mouthfeel, as it were. Not content to wow you with physical prowess, however, the Oltranti serves up some great tobacco, bramble, and forestation as well; the second and third-tier supporting characteristics give a unique lift to this fleshily omnipresent Atlas. A great offering to meet the middle of your holiday meal; the entrée!

2003 Ridge Vineyards Independence School

A true collector’s item in every sense of the term, this is the first release of what would become our Old School designation, and the only one to actually carry the “Independence School” name. This, as with the Stone Ranch, is ostensibly Geyserville fruit, but as with the Stone Ranch (though for very different reasons!), the blocks that make up this wine are held out of the Geyserville assemblage due to their singular personalities. In this wine’s case, the fruit is held out for a separate small-batch, winery-only offering in acknowledgement of its traditionally riper, sweeter, more fruit-forward character. Accordingly, expect unctuousness in spades, voluptuousness in decadently seasoned excess, and luxuriant fruit at all points across the palate.

While there is little that one could claim as tame about this wine, I am consistently and pleasantly surprised by its balance; this is an athlete of an offering; you experience the grace, and are hard-pressed to remember that it comes via endless hours in the weight room. A great wine with which to close a hearty holiday meal; cheeses, fruits, and chocolates should abound, as friendships are re-solidified, and family bonds affirmed.

“Dusi Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, 2006 & 2005

Quite a treat to taste these side-by-side! Benito Dusi’s ranch is such a legendary fixture of the Ridge portfolio, and while our Paso Robles zinfandel is one of our most consistently shaped offerings, it is often via the comparatively more mercurial Dusi Ranch designation that one comes to truly know and love these vines, and this vineyard. Traditionally comprised of blocks held out of the larger Paso Robles assemblage by virtue of their comparatively riper, sweeter profile, the Dusi is actually capable of not only showing unexpectedly complex characteristics, but evidencing authentically enticing seasonal variables as well.

These two vintages are, in many ways, a perfect study in contrast. Conventional wisdom (if anything about Ridge can be said to be conventional!) would certainly propose the Dusi offering as a ripe, warm-climate zinfandel, and the 2006 vintage does not disappoint in this regard. It wears its natural fruit on its shoulder, but also shows itself to have been (as it was) the product of a submerged cap fermentation; there are tannins, there is earth, and there is some darkness under all that concentratedly rich fruit. But fruit is the word, is the word, is the word …

That said, if you expect more of the same when heading into the ’05, be prepared for an adjustment of sorts. Sure, it’s still warm-climate, old-vine zin, and sure there is a lot of fruit on offer, but there is also acidity! Not something one normally expects from this combination of region and varietal. And in fact, there is a whole host of structural components on offer; in addition to acidity, there are some nicely coated and resolving tannins, there is some herbality and woodsiness, and there are some fine layers of fruit as well.

In October of ‘06, Eric Baugher gave a 5 to 6-year projection of longevity for this wine. Were that accurate, we’d be calling this wine to task right now, branding it as being at its peak. But when tasting this wine with Eric and Paul Draper today (October of ’11), I found I was not the only one who thought this wine had years of life still ahead; both Eric and Paul said it was going to “go out”; and go out it will. Certainly drinkable now, but if you want a rarefied library offering to sit on just a bit longer, this might just be your perfect catch.

“Estate Cabernet Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate (now Estate Cabernet), 2005, 2004, and 2003

I admit it. I am spoiled. This should have been one of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life. But I have to confess, I just tasted these wines rather recently, as part of the worldwide #CabernetDay celebration. That said, guess what this was? One of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life! Three truly tremendous vintages, of a truly tremendous wine, tasted in the company of Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and a whole host of my most excellent colleagues; priceless.

It would take pages upon pages to truly navigate the unique history of this designation, and its singular relationship to the Monte Bello, so suffice it to say that one might not be far off the mark in suggesting that, with the 2003 vintage, this designation truly came into its own, emerging out of the shadow of the Monte Bello as its own wine; grown, harvested, and vinted in similar fashion, beneficiary of an equally intense attention to detail, but selected and assembled with an altogether different overarching aesthetic in mind.

Put another way, it’s a hell of a wine, and particularly for the price; meaning, from a price break to quality standpoint, you rarely get this much wine for this little of an investment. And the 2003 is where this really and truly becomes the indisputable case.

All that said, the tasting begins with the 2005. The only vintage of the trio without Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the assemblage, this wine perfectly enacts the growing season that year; preposterously low yields (less than 1 ton an acre) resulting in a deep, dark, concentrated, structure-forward profile. The nose is all chocolate and campfire and s’mores, and the mid-palate is all gluttony and indulgence. That said, it’s still a frighteningly balanced wine; frightening in that it manages to pack all that baroque romanticism and architectural decadence into an almost sexually-charged come-on; you want this wine, because it moves so well, but at the same time, you can’t help but sense the primality lurking just below the surface. One to watch, one to wish for, one to covet.

The 2004 is an altogether different animal, the product of a perversely unusual growing season; one in which the harvesting of Monte Bello (the estate) was essentially bisected; early picking on one side of the October rains, late picking the other. The resulting wine, I will confess, is one of my personal favorites. To borrow a colloquialism, it’s just my kind of funky. It’s a bit rustic, a bit earthy, a bit dirty, a bit bluesy. In short, delicious! The big “B” gets thrown around a lot in wine circles (Bordeaux), much the same way that “Genius” is oft-misused by certain rather purple-y writers in the various arts fields; meaning, if I had a dollar for every tired, derivative, re-hashed, substance-less wine, poem, play, novel, song, album painting, etc. … Anyhow, the point is, that still, to this day, “Bordeaux” is prized as the ultimate comparative; “In a blind tasting, I would have sworn this was a first growth!” And while that’s instructive in certain realms, and nonsensical in others, it serves a purpose here, because this is truly cause for a pause; if your wish is to embrace an American producer who can very successfully and authentically produce wines that are fully in line with all that we hold dear about the legitimately still-great Bordeaux producers, all while doing so in uniquely American fashion, and on top of that, at disarmingly populist price breaks, then please, do yourself a favor, and find a way to drink this wine. It’s just that kind of excellent.

And finally, we return to the 2003, which, as Paul himself noted, is really and truly coming into its own. If you want to seriously wow your holiday table guests, without digging too deep into your cellar, or into your wallet, just serve this out of decanter, and watch the mouths drop. This is a serious, serious wine, and it lacks nothing, and I mean nothing, when compared to bottles of twice the price break, if not more.

 

#Harvest 2011: Waiting For The Sun

October 24, 2011

We’re all picked out up north. Sonoma is done. And we love what we’ve taken in. Flavors are amazing.

Monte Bello is another story. We need sun, and we need heat. The chardonnay is in, but the red varietals need some love from Miss Mother Nature.

It’s an interesting story. As Paul Draper noted in our Monday Morning Meeting today, we have a somewhat unusual circumstance on our hands; flavor has come in ahead of sugar and acid. Meaning, we have great flavor already, we just need the brix and the acid levels to come up.

It’s sunny today, and it’s warm and dry. That is love. Acid will rise. Sugar will rise.

I took some time this morning to go walk the rows on the mountain. I wanted the vines to know I believed in them, that I knew they were going to make it. They looked beautiful. The fruit looked beautiful. The sky was beautiful. The whole round world was beautiful.

Here are some pictures from my walk:

If you’d like to view a compendium of moving snippets from my walks today, please feel free to enjoy the following movie:

Pray for sun. Warm is the love.

Waiting for the sun.

#Harvest2011: The Grape Path To Glory -or- The Sleeping Beast, About To Awaken

September 17, 2011

It’s Saturday, and the first delivery of fruit to Monte Bello is due in a matter of hours. Put another way, The Sleeping Beast Is About To Awaken.

And what, you might ask, will happen to said grapes upon arrival? Ok, I’ll show you …

From wherever is their vineyard place of origin, the grapes arrive at “The Crush Pad” …

They come to us in bins that look like this …

Delivered by a truck like this …

That lines up under a hook apparatus like this …

Which is utilized to tip over the bins, such that the fruit is gently dispersed onto a custom-built conveyor belt like this …

At this point, sorting will begin, and while it will get quite a bit more intense a few more steps down the line, there will most certainly be a gang of folks watching the fruit come in, and keeping an eye out for, for example, green and/or damaged fruit, as well as miscellaneous stems, leaves, and other organic matter.

The belt will deliver the fruit to a sort of gondola-meets-merry-go-round-esque conveyor like this …

Which will in turn deliver the fruit to what is called the “De-Stemmer” …

The De-Stemmer is a pretty self-explanatory machine; essentially, whole clusters (meaning grapes that are still attached to their stems) go into the de-stemmer, and they come out free of their stems; i.e. de-stemmed. This is achieved by a sort of spiky augur mechanism like this …

As these spikes rotate, the grapes are separated from their stems, and then consequently fall through a sort of mesh grid …

Which then disperses the fruit to its next destination via a series of rollers. If you’re a zinfandel grape, you’ll go through the rollers into what’s called a “Must Pump” …

Now, before we continue, a quick “summary pic” here is the view from by the must pump, looking up towards the belt and conveyor …

What you’re ideally seeing here is a bit of the first conveyor belt, the gondola conveyor, the de-stemmer, and the must pump.

It is at this point that methodologies diverge, as regards how the fruit proceeds. As noted above, if you’re a zinfandel grape, you’re ready to be pumped into the winery itself. But if you’re a cabernet sauvignon grape (or another of the Bordeaux varietals grown on our mountain), you’ve still got a bit more sorting to go through.

Why the difference? Well, the goal is to get the fruit to tank fully intact, and the more you move the fruit around, the more you run the risk of the skins breaking, and given that zinfandel is supremely thin-skinned, and likely to break anyway, it’s just better to get it into the tank asap. However, for the Bordeaux varietals, given that they’re sturdier, we’re able to take them through a few more tiers of sorting; this is one of the reasons why our Monte Bello so consistently maintains its high standard of quality; rigor of sortings. So, after these grapes have come through the de-stemmer, they’ve still got a few more steps to go through before they make the tank …

Like vibrating sorting tables, for example …

With grooves …

And blowers …

And after all that, there is still a final sorting table. And this one is the big one; this table is manned by as many as 8 very skilled and knowledgeable people, who will do their very best to pick out every single green berry, every bird-pecked berry, every shriveled berry, every single berry that isn’t, for whatever reason, perfect. This is a very important table …

Whatever grape you may be, eventually, it will be your turn to enter the winery itself, and you’ll do so via a complicated architecture of pumps and hoses. Your point of entry looks like this …

And that’s how you’ll depart the crush pad.

As for myself, descending from the crush pad, led by the very gracious, frighteningly knowledgeable, humbly benevolent, excellently hard-working Shun Ishikubo (Assistant Winemaker at Monte Bello) …

… I just had to stop for just one last pic; a last look at the hoses that will very, very soon be conveying the 2011 harvest to the Monte Bello winery. The hoses looked beautiful. Sinuous, strong, elegant, and focused. They looked ready.

Then, the winery.

Our beloved hoses, once inside the winery, begin the process of allocating out fruit to the appropriate fermentation tanks. If you’re a zinfandel grape, it’s quite likely you might go into a special kind of tank with a screen inside that can be used to submerge the “cap” (the mass of solid matter that forms during the fermentation process) …

Whereas if you’re a cabernet sauvignon grape, you might go to a smaller tank …

Delivered, of course, by the same mystically arterial intricacy of hoses previously noted …

These are fermentation tanks, and it is — unsurprisingly — inside these tanks that fermentation will take place.

Once fermentation reaches its conclusion, the “free run” juice (juice that has “naturally” separated from the skins, as opposed to juice that is “pressed” (i.e. squeezed) from the skins) is migrated to another set of tanks …

Within which temperature can me modulated, mitigated, and controlled via cooling lines that run behind the wall of tanks …

With that juice remaindered to those said tanks, there is still quite a mass of skins and such that can potentially be exploited for additional juice via “the press”; a mechanism that essentially “wrings” out, via the application of varying degrees of pressure, the juice that still remains in the skins. “Press Juice,” as it’s called, may or may not be called into use, depending on the character of the free run juice. By definition, press juice is more intensely extracted, and its relevance to a final assemblage is dependent on a multitude of factors. Ridge Vineyards is somewhat unique as regards its transportational methodology; our tanks are moveable via pallet jacks, and they are transported to the press thusly, to then be lifted by crane and hook, and consequently upended such that the skin mass can be delivered into the bowels of the press. Seen from a bit of a distance, the press area looks like this …

In the picture above, the apparatus is actually upside down, because it is still draining its water post-cleaning, in expectation of its pending use. Here’s what it looks like from below …

And from the side …

Ridge Vineyards traditionally drills down its management of press juice to a notably segmented level, by applying varying degrees of pressure (press “fractions”), and then segregating out those different press fractions of juice for possible later use. This is achieved by sending the differently realized juice lots to different destinations. Meaning, coming off the press, four different press fractions will be sent to four different tanks …

There to remain until the winemakers decide whether or not any or all of the lots can be utilized in an enhancitive role as regards the free run juice that will form the core of any given bottling.

Once the remaining skins have been pressed, there’s not a lot left to them; they sort of resemble cracklins at this point, but still, their use is not exhausted. Via an augur …

And a pair of belts …

this last remaining organic matter is dumped into a truck, and composted, until it’s ready to be recycled back into the landscape from whence it came …

And that’s the journey, from load-in to landscape. If you’re a grape, you’ve come a long way, baby.

A Look Back at the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello (i.e. Event pics!)

September 9, 2011

With all the excitement of harvest looming on the horizon, and all the forward looking this involves, it does indeed seem as if a proper “look back” at the Monte Bello Fall Release Event is in order; even though it was only last weekend!

Anyhow …

On behalf of all of us here at Ridge, and most especially the team here at Monte Bello, I wish to thank everyone who attended this extraordinary happening; I don’t know who was happier, our guests, or us!

I drove up that morning nervous, exhausted, stressed, and unhealthily focused. A huge event afoot, and all responsibilities on my shoulders. I was deranged.

What paused me, and fully recalibrated my psyche, was this:

That’s what I was looking at as I was unlocking the driveway gate. I was instantly unwound.

Once inside the Old Winery Barn, it was down to my office. That’s when things started to heat up again. So much to do, so little time. Staff began to arrive, the catering team arrived, the parking team arrived. So many people. I was beginning the routine that would be mine the rest of the day; running laps around the property. I was frenzied.

But pause was soon again given. It was tasting time.

You probably know by know just how good these new vintages are showing. I was happily rediscovering. Point scores are nice, and we’re happy to receive good ones, but at the end of the day, the wines have to perform when it matters most; when YOU’RE tasting them. I mean, sure the new issue of Wine Advocate had just simply showered down praises on these wines (97 points for the 2008 Monte Bello, and 95 points each for the 2009 Lytton Springs and the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay!) …

… but what were YOU going to think?

After tasting the line-up, I felt very good. Very, very good. And I felt that you, too, were going to feel very, very good.

Which was good, given that the first arrivals were starting to arrive, and as expected, the event had drawn out a hearty crop of serious Ridge-o-Philes. And believe you me, these weren’t the only two seriously vintage Ridge shirts I would see, though these are certainl two classic and excellent examples:

So it was go time, and we were ready. We had a great team on hand, the wines were showing beautifully, and some very key members of the winemaking team were in the house:

Paul Draper & Eric Baugher talking Monte Bello winemaking ...

Shun Ishikubo pouring 1992 Monte Bello out of magnum ...

Tara pouring below the ghosts of founders past ...

 

Zani expertly enacts the art of wine tasting merriment ...

 

Pete pours cool as a cucumber in the face of hot demand ...

No discussion of the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello is complete without acknowledging the presence of Pizza Politana. Not only did they manage to actually drive a wood-fired pizza oven up our mountain, but they then proceeded to serve some of the most delicious (and PERFECTLY paired) offerings we’ve ever had the pleasure of placing alongside our wines.
 
 
But a great idea (wood-fired pizza oven truck!), great ingredients (local, sustainable, organic, NorCal farmer’s market fare), and great pairing do not a great event make. It takes great staff, and the folks from Pizza Politana were tops.
 
 
 Things were definitely getting intense. You know when you’re starting to golf-cart the guests in that the event is really starting to happen.
 
 
Then suddenly this …
 
 
 … becomes this!
 
 
Fortunately, there was this to adjourn to (once the collective tummy was full up on pizza and wine!) …
 
 
Yeah, that’ll do …
 
 
 What a day, what a day …
 
When I began assembling the components of what have become this post, I was looking for one image, something that could somehow capture the magic of it all; I found this, and figured I had it …
 
 
Pizza and Monte Bello. Perfect.
 
But in looking through all the images I’d shot over the day, there was another idea that I just couldn’t shake, and in the end, it’s what I’ve decided to go with; the bookend.
 
After all was said and done, and I was coming down the mountain …
 
 
… I knew, finally and for certain, that all was well.
 

New Fall Releases: The Winemaker Video!

September 2, 2011

As they did with the Spring Releases, our winemaking team recently got together for a tasting of all the wines we’re releasing this month, and again as with the Spring edition, we captured it all on video!

So, for your viewing pleasure, please enjoy Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney as they discuss 2009 Lytton Springs, 2009 York Creek, 2009 Pagani Ranch, 2008 Monte Bello, 2008 Chardonnay Monte Bello, and 2009 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah! (Moderated by David Amadia, Vice President, Sales + Marketing)

2011 Fall Releases – Tasting with Winemakers from Ridge Vineyards on Vimeo.

Pizza & Wine: (Insert Homer Simpson Drool Sound Here)

August 29, 2011

Pizza and Wine. Pizza and Wine. Pizza and Wine.

I just like to say it. Over and over.

In fact, before she was born, I wanted to name my daughter “Pizza”, just so I could spend the rest of my life saying, “I love you Pizza.”

Of course, things didn’t turn out that way, but I still love pizza. And wine. And my daughter. I love her the most. But pizza and wine, that’s definitely up there too.

Anyhow, do you love pizza and wine?

If so, HAVE I GOT AN EVENT FOR YOU!!!

We’re having our very hip-to-sip Fall Release Event  at Monte Bello this Saturday, and the very passionate and talented folks at Pizza Politana will be driving their amazing wood-fired-pizza-oven-truck right up our mountain to personally serve their widely heralded, locally sourced offerings. (Sunset Magazine writes, “The Temescal Farmer’s Market is ground-zero for gourmands, and Chez Panisse alum Joel Baecker bakes its best new grub — beautifully blistered pizzas — in his portable wood-burning oven.”). Which is very excellent. And, we’ll be releasing new vintages of Monte Bello Chardonnay and Cabernet, plus new Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch, and York Creek! Nice.

Anyhow, at the time I confirmed Pizza Politana’s participation, I didn’t even know yet what pizzas were going to be served. I was running on faith.

But then came the Petaluma Farmer’s Market, where I met up with Ryan Moore (our Director of Direct-to-Consumer Sales), and the very excellent Pizza Politana folks. I brought the wine, they brought the za, and this, believe you me, was a tasting!

And now, we have the menu. The pairings. The pizza and wine pairings. Pizza and Wine, Pizza and Wine, Pizza and Wine.

First up, the new 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay. For my money, one of the best Monte Bello Chardonnays we’ve ever produced; quintessential cool-climate mountain fruit, showing tremendous acidity, minerality, and yeast characteristics, with a lovely round body, great complexity, and a dangerous quaffability. And to go with it? Dig this!

Know what kind of pizza this is? Check this out:

Crème Fraiche
Figs
Bacon
Red onion
Wild arugula

Nice!

And how about this lil’ baby, to go with the new, powerful, structured, and intense 2009 Lytton Springs?

Yeah, that looks good. Dig the profile:

Tomato sauce
Smoked mozzarella
Mushrooms
Caramelized onion
Gremolata

 Man, this thing is so crazy flavorful …

But then along comes Monte Bello! The new 2008 is beyond fantastic (I bought in HARD on my personal futures order; the whole hog!) and it requires a pizza of maximum flavorishishness. Behold:

The profile?

Tomato sauce
Ridge’s red wine sausage (meaning, sausage made with our wine!)
Roasted eggplant
Parmesan

Um, yup. That’ll do.

So, with all that said, you best get yer tickets with a quickness. As I said, this thang is just about sold out. I hope you can come. Pizza and Wine. Pizza and Wine. Pizza and Wine.

I love you Pizza.

And wine.


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