Archive for the ‘Tasting Notes’ Category

The Old School Is New Again …

January 26, 2012

You know it’s coming, yet somehow you won’t admit it to yourself. It’s inevitable, of course, but it’s impossible survive the days if you’re in conscious embracement of the facts. Somehow, we have to psychically suspend our realities in order to keep on keepin’ on. But all things must pass.

The news came yesterday. They’d pulled it.

The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School was removed from the website. It was over.

Fortunately, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School ain’t too far down the road!

I’ll be sure to let you know when it’s released, but in the meantime, here are some tasting notes, just to keep you going through these tough times …

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School

As you may or may not know, the Old School designation is actually part of our Geyserville estate, but as it’s a group of vines that traditionally provide fruit that ripens to a greater degree of intensity, the juice is traditionally bottled separately in small amounts under the Old School name, and released as a special winery-only offering.

Stylistically, because of the selection criteria, the Old School favors a flavor profile that can run the gamut from sweet in character (a ripe quality that presents the illusion of sweetness without any actual real and significant amount of residual sugar) to actual sweetness (featuring actual residual sugar).

The 2009 is definitely of the former ilk; while the wine is certainly rich and intensely flavored and fruit-driven, a combination of notable water-stress and early ripening during the growing season, and an aggressive and disciplined selection process at the winery (made possible courtesy of a new receiving and sorting system), have made for a wine of surprising integrity and balance.

In addition to the voluptuousness of the fruit and the generosity of the bouquet, there are strong hints of that classic Geyserville spiciness that creep into the flavor profile at just the right moments. These notes primarily come courtesy of the vineyard-blend model deployed for the assemblage of this wine; the zinfandel (at 78%) is structurally rounded out and enhanced by the inclusion of carignane and petit sirah, two classic “mixed blacks” that also form the architectural backbone of the Geyserville.  

The 2007 Old School was one of our top-selling winery-only wines last year, and while it was a sweeter, riper rendition than the 2009, I think the ’09 is poised to not only keep the ’07 fans very happy, but also accrue a whole new set of believers as well. It’s got the fruit for the ’07 set, but it’s also got the complexity, structure, and spice that should win over some converts who may not normally find themselves on the ripe side of life.

If I may say so, it’s a perfect February wine; it’s got Valentine’s Day written all over it …

Belated Holiday Wine Highlights: My Top 3!

January 14, 2012

Silly, really, that it’s already the 14th of January, 2012, and I’m only just now getting to this post. But as I’m still reasonably certain the concerns of Y2K and Enron were in fact front and center only a few years ago, I guess it’s not too surprising.

Anyhow, I’d like to run down for you my three favorite wines from the various and sundry holiday dining experiences I was fortunate to enjoy.

First on the list? The 2002 Ridge Vineyards Nervo.

We had this during one of the many buffet-style indulgences that were laid out on our myriad holiday tables, and it was absolutely perfect with the various cheeses, spreads, breads, dips, salads, and other such niceties that adorned the counters. It’s got structure, spice, and herbaceousness to spare, and the low-yielding old vines offered a concentration that, while softened with bottle age, was still integral to the flavor profile. It was particularly delightful with a robust beet and goat cheese salad heavily speckled with fresh ground pepper.

Next on the list? A true legend, the 1984 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello.

And yes, that is a water pitcher masquerading as a decanter. Extraordinary times beget extraordinary wines, and extraordinary need begets extraordinary measures. So yes, I did indeed decant this wine into a glass water pitcher. And it was delicious! As to pairing? The only thing this wine paired with was our collective palates. No food, just the ’84. Heaven.

But the real star of the show? The breakout hit? The surprise hero? The dark horse, the miracle, the magician?

That’s right, the 1995 Ridge Vineyards York Creek! It was tremendous! I mean, just look at that cork!

I was under strict instructions not to cook the main holiday dinner this year, but I couldn’t resist making a mushroom gravy, which turned out to be fortunate, as gravy would have been the one thing we would have been short on (my people DIG gravy!), and I have to say, the 95 York Creek with a rich, umami-laden mushroom gravy? Happy Holidays indeed.

And so, what were YOUR top 3 wine tasting experiences from the holidays? Enquiring minds want to know!

It Begins, A New Year Of ATP Releases!

January 5, 2012

With a new year comes a new calendar of wine releases, which is to say, this is a flat-out EXCITING time to be alive at Ridge Vineyards! I LOVE January!

And so, without further ado, how’s about we take a looksee at the new 2006 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Grenache? It’s the new January ATP release, so no time like the present to taste things out!

I’m going to take a slightly different tack with the tasting notes for this offering. As it’s a wine that lends itself very well to structural analysis, I’d like to use it as an opportunity to flesh out one of my favorite concepts; the idea of “architecture” as it relates to wine.

The idea is simple; the “structure” of a wine is the beams and girders of its formation, and if one is to analyze a wine via its architecture, one needs to identify and analyze its architectural components. This is not dissimilar from poetry scansion. To “scan” a poem is essentially to isolate, identify, and analyze its architectural components; its rhyme, its meter, its forms, its patterns, as a way forward towards understanding the total poem. Iambic? Trochaic? Anapestic? Dactylic? ABABAB? AABBCC? Spenserian or Shakespearean? Villanelle or Terza Rima?

To “scan” a wine is essentially to do the same, to identify and analyze its architectural components — fruit, acid, tannin, herb/spice, alcohol — in the service of eventually understanding the wine in all its aesthetic totality.

That said, and as with a poem, scansion can only ever tell you a portion of the story. Beams and girders may a building make, but ’tis magic, love and soul that makes a home. So, in addition to offering a “scan” of the 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache, I’m also going to offer a culinary metaphor, in the hopes of conjuring some of the visceral and intangible mojo that lives within the imagined soul-core of any and every good wine. (Not a culinary pairing, mind you, but a metaphor, though the dish below would certainly taste quite fine with this wine!). That is to say, I am going to posit a dish that, for me, metaphorically evokes the taste of this wine.  Will that get us to the soul-core? Of course not; at the end of the day,  you must taste. There is no substitute. You too must hold Aladdin’s lamp, and wish to stay. And don’t let anyone take your lamp away.

So …

Un, deux, trois, quatre, cinq, here we go! (Cue random Cat In The Hat reference!)

2006 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Grenache

Fruit: Blackberry, Pluot, Pomegranate, Wild Mountain Blueberry …

Acid: Mild, Reserved, Erudite, Refined …

Tannin: Ultra-Powdery; Powdered Sugar & Talc …

Herb/Spice: Cigar tobacco, Black Pepper, Nutmeg, Chicory, Coffee Grounds …

Alcohol: Benign & Integrated, No Heat …

Metaphorical Culinary Summation: Powdered sugar-dusted chocolate zucchini cake drizzled with blackberry gastrique, served with mission figs and chipotle powder-dusted chocolate-covered hazelnuts, followed by a strong and bitter espresso, and a mild, hand-rolled cigar.

I Spy With My Little Eye … A 2006 Monte Bello!

December 30, 2011

I have been thinking about the 2006 Monte Bello lately. I remember it as a really fine and intense wine, but it’s been a while since I last tasted it. I need to fix that …

2006 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

The wine looks younger than young in the glass — a dazzlingly youthful presentation — with deep, rich purples and magentas plaited together in a luxuriant braid of viscously ambrosial succulence that atunes perfectly to the hearty berries and piquant umaminess of the bouquet. It must be said again, the youthful presentation is dazzling in its come-on. With some years of bottle age now at its disposal, the wine is still shy upon arrival, and takes a bit of coaxing to be drawn out. But as it emerges, a tremendous incrassation is enacted; oxygen working on wine, poetry working on life.

Mouthfeel is ever so slightly taut by comparison; architectural and tannin-driven, though the tannins themselves manage to be snowflake tender. The fruit is blacker at point-of-entry, near tenebrous in its intensity, yet with an eyebrow cocked. As the wine lands on the fat of the tongue, the viscidity spreads like ripples in a pond, laying lavish and opulent across the four-posts of the palate. There is the beginning of an herb and spice layer in development towards the middle of the journey southward, with an adumbration of clove, chicory, and pipe tobacco ghosting its silhouette upon the walls as the wine glissades onwards towards its finish.

The finish itself is the wine’s truest display of youthful circumspection; a demurement of coy promise sealed in a locked journal of poetic and impassionate angst. The hints are there, but the mystery is sealed. The wine closes off and leaves one with the tautness evident at first taste, though a shift from tannin to acid has upended the flavor paradigm somewhat. At first taste, I wanted a hard cheese —- high in salt, chalky in texture — to absorb the fruit, control and subdue the intensity, corral the plainsong wildness. Now, at final taste, I wish for Mt. Tam. Cowgirl Creamery, bless you your Monte-Bello-taming heart.

Cowgirl Creamery, Mt. Tam

 

And bless you, 2006 Monte Bello, it’s so very nice to see you again …
 
 

For Those About To Type, Part II

December 29, 2011

For those of you who may have read about (or attended!) our recent Wine Bloggers Tasting, you’ll know that part of the experience involved our guest Wine Bloggers having a go at crafting tasting notes on one or more of four different vintage manual typewriters.

(You can read about the tasting, and see pictures of the typewriters and those who used them, here)

While their efforts were certainly valiant in this regard, it might also possibly be slightly safe to say that (borrowing a phrase from JeffIsRad at the Stay Rad Wine Blog) there was perhaps in evidence the occasional lack of “pinky strength” …

You be the judge!

(click on any image below, and you’ll be taken to an attachments page, where you can then scroll left or right to see all the images)

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Ridge Vineyards 2007 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache

December 5, 2011

Syrah: Dark, brooding, imposing. A certain sexy menace. Spicy yet controlled, saucy yet serious. A somber, shadowy figure; footsteps echoing in the alley, a hint of violence simmering just below the surface. A sensual phantom.

Grenache: Exotic, percolating, exuberant. Tough as nails yet fragile as lace. A brightly colored mural, celebrating the desires of the heart, the passions of the body. Musical, buoyant, predatorily delighting. A lascivious pirate.

Blended in equal measure, 50% to 50%. One of my favorite wines that we release. The Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache.

The 2007 vintage was bottled on November 20th, 2009. The very same day that a very famous Italian mountaineer by name of Lino Lacadelli passed away. Lacadellli was from a region in Italy called Veneto. Which happens to be where Asiago comes from.

So, I am going to get some Asiago on my way home, and I’m going to eat some while I drink a glass of the 2007 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache.

Because Syrah and Grenache go together like rama lama lama lama lama ding de ding de dong.

2008 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel is coming to a tasting room near you!

December 1, 2011

We here at Ridge Vineyards are very excited about the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch zinfandel, and the fact that it’s about to drop live into our tasting rooms. In anticipation of its arrival, I gathered together some of my Monte Bello colleagues over the weekend for a tasting of this new ATP offering, and hauled out the old Royal to try and transcribe the thoughts and reactions as they happened in real-time.

First word/Best word.

Accordingly, as I’m a bit of a sloppy typer, the original notes are periodically a tad indecipherable, but for the sake of historical accuracy, I have included a scan of the original notes at the end of this post. Here first though, is a proper “translation” of sorts (and bear in mind, this is a compendium of many perspectives and voices!):

2008 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel

Nice, solid burgundy coloration in the glass, medium-weight legs moving with reasonable speed, and an overall sense of finessed concentration bespeak a Buchignani of arguably unusual power; not that the “zin buch” (as it is oft referred to internally) doesn’t always show good intensity — it does — but it traditionally does so in a comparatively refined package, albeit with a healthy dose of rusticity, particularly as regards the aromatics.

Anyhow, speaking of aromatics, this is a richly inviting nose, heavy with pipe tobacco, black cherries, fig, and cocoa powder. Point-of-entry mouthfeel stays in this intense vein, devouring all flavor sensors upon arrival, and laying acidity and tannins on all reachable palate points.

Mid-palate actually contracts slightly, focusing the heady fruit flavors right on the tongue.

As the wine begins to expand again toward the back of the palate, the unmistakable resonance of ollalieberry pie stands front and center; hints of sweet bread crust, brambly forest berry fruit, a touch of sweet berry sugar, some nice, woody-seedy tannins, and an overall freshness that is truly beguiling in a plink-plank-plunk-in-the-pail sort of way (alert: Blueberries for Sal reference!).

Going back to the aromatics again, there is a crisper, more minty clarity emerging; cool, icy, almost crisp; Gravenstein apples come to mind, as do frozen blueberries over full cream Greek yogurt; possibly reminisce more than actual character, but inviting either way.

Past Zin Buchs have sometimes veered towards the almost misleadingly funky (meaning, funky on the nose, but streamlined on the palate); this vintage, however, is very mineral-dominant aromatically, giving what is a most beguilingly effective and authentic preliminary presentation. Hints of light pepper serve up additinal complexities, particularly with the emergence of an almost white pepper-esque duskiness.

And now, returning for a second visit to mouthfeel and front-to-mid-palate; there is noticeably more concentration and succulence showing itself; the fruit is getting richer, the viscosity is weightening, and the darker, more anise-and-jelly notes  are really driving the character.

This is probably most reminiscent of the 2004 Zin Buch (my personal all time favorite vintage! — cw), though it veers slightly darker in overall tonal profile.

Above all else, what is most singularly astounding about this wine is the shape and placement of the tannins; they’re incredibly refined, light, almost airy, yet somehow fully present anyway, in all their gossamer elegance …

Thinking now on the finish, we’re right back to berry, though more notably blueberry-esque at this point, as opposed to the ollallieberry flavors that dominated earlier.

All in all, this is a fantastic return to the ’04 form, and should be greeted by all with fanfare and delight. While we’ll miss the 2007, and thank it for its funky, old-world-in-a-softer-package style; its rock n’ roll in a steady-rollin’ package, its streamlinedly-rendered old school funky self, it’s also safe to say we are highly anticipating the arrival of the ‘new 08 in the tasting rooms.

We think you’ll like it too, and hope you can come see us before this limited-production, winery-only gem sells itself out too.

On How The Reigning Dark Viticultral Prince Of All The Lands Of Cyber Monday Is Roaming The Forest Of My Palate, Slaying All Pretenders To The Throne

November 28, 2011

On How The Reigning Dark Viticultural Prince Of All The Lands Of Cyber Monday Is Roaming The Forest Of My Palate, Slaying All Pretenders To The Throne

–or–

Check your e-mail inbox, because there is a VERY GOOD Cyber Monday offer from Ridge Vineyard waiting for you there!

Coincidentally (or perhaps not!), I wish to offer some tasting notes on the 2005 Ridge Vineyards Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah. But first, winemaker Eric Baugher’s notes, from back in 2007:

2005 Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah
100% Petite Sirah
Bottled August 2007

A long growing season allowed the York Creek grapes to achieve intensity at modest (by today’s standards) ripeness. We picked in late September; the tight, mature, brown-stemmed clusters were perfect for a natural-yeast, whole-cluster fermentation. Extraction of color and tannin was ideal by day six, and we pressed. The natural secondary (malolactic) fermentation was complete by late November, and the wine racked to air-dried american oak barrels for aging. These fifteen barrels–one-third new, one-third three years old, one-third four years old–were combined for a special, limited petite sirah bottling, something we have not done since 2000. After twenty months in oak, the wine has gained additional richness and spice, and tannins have softened. Remarkably complex, it is approachable now, but will continue to improve with five to seven years of bottle age. EB (5/07)

And as to my thoughts today …

If you’ve had the Ridge Vineyards York Creek before, then you’ve tasted Dynamite Hill petite sirah; it’s the block on York Creek that provides the petite sirah for this long-running Ridge zinfandel. On its own, I’ve always found it to be a sort of kinder, gentler petite sirah; it’s always had the varietally correct squid-inkiness, intense tannin architecture, and deep berry profile one would expect, but it’s always come wrapped in a fairly lively and multi-colored bow.

Digging into the nose of this particular vintage, I am immediately taken in by the array of complexities on offer; most notably, the distinct note of caraway. Fascinating! Add to that the singular appearances of buckwheat flour pancake batter, blackberry preserves, and a touch of Irish Stew, and you’ve got a truly provocative bouquet on your hands, and one that leans distinctly autumnal in its overall profile.

Front-palate hits full parade mode right away; nothing is reserved, the show is on, the trumpets are blaring, drums are thumping, legs are kicking. There is a wealth of tannin architecture laid out right away, between the girders of which hangs a dense tapestry of deep blue-to-purple-to-black fruit threads.

Mid-palate shows a little of that American oak-derived dill tone , and this actually tributaries its way nicely into the caraway stream hinted at in the aromatics; in these rushing rapids is also a wealth of black herb and woody stemness; black licorice and blackstrap molasses are most prevalent as well.

The finish is still youthful to say the least, and tannins are still dominant, though there is a trickle of acidity that bobs and weaves around the pure rope of richness that runs straight down the center palate stripe.

All in all, a deeply unusual and complex spin on petite sirah, and clear proof this is a varietal capable of much more complexity that it often gets credit for. Your autumn-to-winter table will certainly be enhanced by the presence of this wine, and should you happen to go for something like, oh, I don’t know, duck cracklins and blackberry gastrique (more on this soon!), you might just achieve gourmand nirvana.

A Very Special Black Friday Tasting Opportunity!

November 18, 2011

EXTRA! EXTRA! Historic Vineyard Series Wines Available To Taste On Black Friday!

It’s becoming quite the tradition for us to do a little something special on Black Friday, that semi-infamous post-Thanksgiving shopping frenzy that so regularly pocks the countenances of our collective social marketplaces.

Last year, we put on quite a delightful series of tastings (you can see a run-down on the 2010 Black Friday here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2010/11/22/turn-black-friday-red/), and I think for all concerned it was a very welcome alternative to being trampled underfoot by a maddened gate-crashing mob storming the doors of their local Wal-Mart at 4am, in search of one last remaining copy of “Halo” or one last “Let’s Rock Elmo.”

This year will be no different!

You will have two choices, this:

Or this:

The choice seems clear to me.

In all seriousness, while avoiding the lunacy of Black Friday is certainly incentive enough, we actually have a much better reason for you to visit. As part of the private tastings on offer on Black Friday, we’ll be showcasing … wait for it, wait for it … two of our new, never-before released, Historic Vineyard Series wines! Ah, the volta …

Have you heard about these very special wines? If you’re a Ridge Vineyards Wine Club Member, you certainly have. And if you’re not a member, well, this might just be a really good chance to experience just why membership is so decidedly the grooviest of badges to affix to the cub scout or brownie outfit of your aesthetic life. Meaning, these very rare wines are only available to members, but for just one day, and one day only, we’re going to make them available for tasting to all who secure a reservation! And, if you’re a member, you’ll be able to purchase as well. And if not yet a member? Well …

Anyhow, just to back track a bit and give you the rundown on these wines, the gist of the story is this;  courtesy of a long and educational engagement with our own unique history here on the Monte Bello Estate, we have been able to delve deeply into the pre-Ridge story, and part of what we’ve been able to do is not only identify the key families who first planted on our mountain, but also ascertain their stories, and the boundaries surrounding their original plantings. And with those families, lines, and properties properly identified, we’ve been able, in a sort of feat of viticultural gerrymandering, to conceptually redraw the lot lines on our property so as to make wines that hew to the original plantings, and bottle them under the names of the original families! It’s quite a unique addition to our primary bottlings from this property (the Monte Bello and Estate Cabernets), and we’re very excited about this extraordinary new series.

2009 is the very first vintage of our Historic Vineyard Series wines on offer, and this Black Friday will be the first “public” opportunity to taste two of them, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2009 Torre Ranch Merlot. This is truly a tasting opportunity not to be missed, as these wines couldn’t possibly be more rare, more significant, more cachet-laden, or more delicious! Did I mention these are also single-varietal wines! That’s right, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% Merlot. How’s that for rare and special?

Here is a bit of history of the two families:

Torre

In 1890, John Torre, a successful Nevada cattle rancher purchased one hundred acres on Monte Bello Ridge, planted vines, and built a barn atop a cellar dug into the hillside. In 1908, John’s nephew Vincent and wife, Dominica, left Nevada to run the vineyards and winery at Monte Bello, acquiring the property upon John’s death in 1913. The Torre winery produced mostly zinfandel, selling it for shipment by rail to New York.

Prohibition closed the Torre winery in 1920 and the vines died out over time. After several changes of ownership, William Short acquired the property and replanted to cabernet sauvignon and a small amount of chardonnay. By 1959, Short, weary of the work, sold the land to four scientists from Stanford Research Institute.

Initially, the partners intended to sell the grapes, but one of them, Dave Bennion, made a half-barrel of wine from the 1959 harvest—his first foray into winemaking. Its quality convinced the partners to re-bond the old winery, and to undertake the venture that would become Ridge Vineyards.

Dave, with his partners, went on to make seven commercial vintages (1962-1968). Paul Draper—impressed by the exceptional 1962 and 1964—joined the group as winemaker in 1969. Paul assisted with that vintage and made the 1970 and 1971 on his own, the last to be made in the old Torre Winery.

Today the oldest vines are those planted by William Short in 1949. The old Torre winery building now houses the Monte Bello tasting room and group facilities.

Klein

Pierre Klein (1855-1922) was an Alsatian who came to California in 1875. For years, as manager of the restaurant in San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel, he championed the best of California wines. In 1888 he purchased 160 acres on Monte Bello Ridge (currently known as the Jimsomare Ranch.)

Determined to produce a fine claret in the style of the Médoc, he planted Bordeaux varieties on their own roots. In the early 1890s, he began selling his Mira Valle wines to several San Francisco restaurants; in 1895, he entered his wine in the Bordeaux Exposition, where he took an honorable mention At the Paris Exposition of 1900, he won two gold medals—one for his Claret, the other for his “Grand Vin”—known as the “Château Lafitte of America,”

When phylloxera attacked his vines after the turn of the century, he did not replant. Retiring in 1910, he sold the property in 1913. In 1936, it was purchased by the Schwabacher family of San Francisco who renamed the property “Jimsomare” from their names Jim, Sophie, and Marie.

Although Klein’s Bordeaux varietals had died out, a small nineteenth-century zinfandel vineyard survived. Ridge bought those grapes, and made its first Jimsomare Zinfandel in 1968. Ridge convinced the family to replant the Bordeaux varietals, and a small amount of chardonnay. In exchange, Ridge provided rootstock, and a promise to purchase the grapes. The first cabernet bottling was in 1978.

By the late 1990s, the Schwabachers no longer wished to manage day-to-day farming, and signed a long-term lease with Ridge. Today, Ridge farms the original Klein property as part of its Monte Bello Estate.

And if all that isn’t enough to pique your curiosity, I’m now going to get going on some tasting notes, to hopefully & proverbially whet your viticultural whistle as regards these extremely rare and historic, limited-production, member-only, single-varietal offerings:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Torre Ranch Merlot

Tremendous post-decanting development on aromatic display; at first whiff, the nose is dominated by strong baker’s chocolate notes, with only minor hints of peppercorn and tarragon, but as the wine airs out, fascinatingly strong strains of fig and amber liqueur emerge. The bowl-view bespeaks a fair amount of girth to come; big, slow-moving legs languidly taking their time down the bowl-sides (raise up mama, get yer big leg offa mine!), and first taste does nothing to dispel this foreshadowing; the wine is mouth-filling to the nth, with strongly granular tannins on full display, and a good wallop of low-tone fruit spreading out all across the front-palate. Layered under this hearty spread of harvest berry and plum lays a layer of beurre noir and toasty caramel, and across the top, a slightly minty, cool-climate herbaceousness. The wine is still quite young, no doubt about it, and structure is still the dominate component, but again, with air, there is a good array of fruit notes beginning to show their colors as well. Mirroring the color, which is decidedly concentrated and rich, the fruit notes are dense as well; not at all extracted, mind you, but expressing their collective essences with a vengeance. This is a lot of wine in the glass, and a fascinating inversion of the Merlot-Cab relationship; here, the Merlot is structure, depth, tannin, and concentration, bringing muscularity and girth to the table, albeit in a broodingly romantic package. A most baroque wine, this is viticultural poetry of the most saturated kind … Purple prose-ish, if you’ll forgive the pun …

2009 Ridge Vineyards Klein Cabernet Sauvignon

Unbelievable aromatics; the quintessentiallity of cool-climate cab in action; minerality, spice, herbality, spice, percolation, spice, and spice! And a singular relationship between color and body; if anything, denser and more vibrant than the merlot, yet swifter of leg and less-viscous of body; rivulets a-runnin’ (brooks run into the ocean, ocean run into the sea!). Extremely elegant mouthfeel, with acidity on display for days upon days upon days; such vibrancy and bounce for a California solo-varietal cab! The fruit here is definitely high in tone, lots of both sweet and sour cherries, strong pluot notes, and a bit of young raspberry as well. The tannins here are of the extremely refined sort; soft, supple, resolved, and covered, and the mid-palate structure retains its bounce while spreading its fruit in a comparatively wider arc.  The finish is a deceptive one; at first swallow, the youth of the wine seems almost restrictive as regards retaining some flavor in the aftermath, but lo and behold, with 5 or 10 seconds of wait-time, a delicious lingering decadence starts to emerge, perhaps hinting at the richening to come. This is a wine with a lot of growing still to do, no question, but it’s expressive and buoyant now, and exciting beyond compare. It’s easy to see how the ying and yang of cab and merlot from this mountain work together, but there is something sweetly, intimately refreshing about seeing these varietals in their solo and separate fleshes; they have a home-ness to them that, for all their grace and power, the assemblages of Monte Bello and Estate don’t necessarily evidence; this is the farmgirl or boy that you fall in love with for their innocence, their purity, their honor and their integrity. They don’t flash, but they’re honest, and there is no more reassuring lap to rest your weary head in.

To secure a reservation for these very special tastings, at either our Lytton Springs or Monte Bello Estates, please follow the following links:

Lytton Springs

Monte Bello

As an alternative, you can also e-mail us at reservations@ridgewine.com.

And last but not least, here is a bit of video documenting a tasting session of these wines earlier today:


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