Archive for the ‘Tasting Notes’ Category

10 Years of the Geyserville: Celebrating 2011, Tasting 2001

May 16, 2013

We’ve been fortunate to have great cause for discussion of late, as regards the 2011 Geyserville, courtesy of  a recent honorific bestowed by the Quarterly Review of Wines:

CO-BEST OF SHOW

2011 Ridge Geyserville, Sonoma County

2011 Ridge Geyserville, Sonoma County $38. Soft, spicy, textured, concentrated, with strawberry-cherry flavors and elegant finish. Delicious! CO-BEST OF SHOW

The Show in question was the 29th Annual Best of The Best, the category was California Zinfandel, and the Geyserville was in receipt of the rather lovely nod noted above.

Thanks QRW!!!

~

And because of all this, I’ve been thinking about the Geyserville.

And when I think about the Geyserville, I think about zinfandel.

And when I think about zinfandel, I think about how it means so many different things to so many different people.

And how what it often doesn’t mean to people is cellarable.

And by cellarable, I don’t simply mean that something can be aged. Many wines can be aged, but few actually should. Just lasting is not enough. It has to develop. And just developing is not enough. It has to improve. It has to develop finesse, and character, and nuance, and subtlety. It has to integrate, and complexicate, and delicify. It has to gain the full measure of its soul.

To say a wine is cellarable is to note the embryosis of its soul.

~

Many wines do not have soul.

Some have some soul, but they arrive with as much soul as they’re ever going to have. They can play one beat, and that’s that. No more grooves to dance to after that.

Zinfandel has soul, but it’s often fully-formed upon arrival. It arrives, it counts to four, it hits the dance floor.

To me, the Geyserville has deep soul. Growing soul. A nascent soul. A full-measure soul. It has funky drummer soul, and house soul, and swing soul, and waltz soul, and two-step soul, and second-line soul, and shuffle soul.

So when I think of Geyserville, I think of cellarable.

And when I think cellarable, I close my eyes and count to ten.

Which brings me to 2001, and the 2001 Geyserville.

01zgy1_StillLife_AhSo

Tasted recently, and enjoyed immensely …

01zgy1_StillLife_Remington

The Remington in action …

2001 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Going garnet as the core spreads outward, but limned with clarity, and nicely glowing tones throughout … lots of elegant secondary on the nose: cedar, spice; very autumnal, with a slight herbality, and hints of candied Japanese plum coming through … touch of blackberry jam undergirding the aromatics, and possibly even a trace of higher-tone strawberry in there as well, though it’s tonally mostly lower … incredible mouthfeel, very velvety and smooth, with perfectly integrated tannins and the acidity very much in balance … fruit is smooth and sweet and very pretty … touch of black pepper and clove showing through, maybe even a strain of maple syrup and pine sap; just incredibly decadent without being overpowering … Good Lord, where is Mt. Tam when I need it?

01zgy1_RemingtonNotes

Sommelier Symposium: Paul Draper, Twelve Top Somms, and You!

May 13, 2013

The 2013 Ridge Vineyards Sommelier Symposium:

Paul Draper, Twelve Top Somms, & You!

(please scroll to the end of this post
for an updated list of #RidgeSomms posts!)

The Annual Ridge Vineyards Sommelier Symposium takes place over two intensive days, and this year, we are inviting you IN!

Please join us, and enjoy unprecedented behind-the-scenes virtual access to one of our most exceptional, yet heretofore private, annual events.

You can friend it on Facebook, follow it on Twitter, read it on our Blog, or watch it on YouTube, but no matter which channel is your go-to tune-in for all things wine, these sessions are sure to swing, and we want you in the club!

Join Paul Draper and a winemaker’s dozen of the best Sommeliers from around the country for two days of winery tours, barrel tastings, library verticals, wine dinners, and more.

You’ll tour Monte Bello’s century-old barrel rooms with winemaker Eric Baugher, and walk Geyserville’s rows of century-old vines with vineyard manager David Gates; you’ll experience eco-sustainable Lytton Springs with winemaker John Olney, and tour the famed Radoux Cooperage with Paul Draper. From barrel to bottle, Santa Cruz to Sonoma, you’ll follow our Sommeliers as they enjoy two intensive days of all things Ridge.

In short, when they’re here, you’re here!

sympLogo-01

~

What:

Ridge Vineyards Sommelier Symposium, 2013

 

When:

May 20th & 21st, 2013

 

Where:

4488: A Ridge Blog

Ridge Vineyards on FacebookRidge Vineyards on Twitter
RidgeVineyards on YouTube

Just filter for #RidgeSomms, and you’re IN!

~

To read additional #RidgeSomms posts,
please check out the selections below!

#RidgeSomms: Where The Ridge Meets The Hill (5.20.13)

#RidgeSomms: A Gentleman And An Expert (5.19.13)

#RidgeSomms: I Cover The Waterfront (5.18.13)

#RidgeSomms: To Dine In The Valleys (5.17.13)

#RidgeSomms: Jackets Are Preferred (5.17.13)

#RidgeSomms: One Mile High And Rising! (5.16.13)

#RidgeSomms: The Powers of Austin! (5.15.13)

#RidgeSomms: Christina Donley Is A Moth To St. Elmo’s Flame! (5.15.13)

#RidgeSomms: Michael Torino Sees “Red!” (5.14.13)

Building The 2012 Monte Bello: Part II

May 10, 2013

We’ve just completed the second round of the Monte Bello Assemblage Tasting, and the blend is in!

It was quite a remarkable tasting; somewhat unique in its architecture, as compared to some past editions, in that it was essentially divided into three distinct phases: Audition, Assemblage, and Vertical.

For those of you not familiar with the process by which the Monte Bello is created, I humbly direct you to the following posts:

Beauty Is A Rare Thing: Building The 2012 Monte Bello

Building Monte Bello: The 2011 Assemblage

A Seat At The Table: A Day In Which I Am Invited To Participate In The 2010 Assemblage Tasting!

The Second Assemblage Tasting was held in The Old Torre Winery Barn, and in attendance were the following:

Paul Draper
Eric Baugher
John Olney
Shun Ishikubo
David Gates
Kyle Theriot
Shinji Kurokawa
Amy Monroe
Christopher Watkins (me)

~

As the warm spring sun began to wend its subtle tides through the warming window panes, Eric inaugurated his singular oeno-alchemy…

Eric_Preparing

… as, one by one, we sought our seats and prepared our palates.

Thebeginning

We began with an auditioning of sorts; a blind tasting, 5 glasses …

5glasses_I 5glasses_II

… no explanation, no context, only the instructions: taste, assess, write, vote; 2 plusses, 2 minuses, 1 neutral.

MoleskineNotes

When the veils were lifted, we were found to have been auditioning 4 blocks’ worth of possible inclusion candidates (three different cab lots, and a merlot option); snuck into the line-up was the First Assemblage, crafted back in April. Two of the lots received majority votes. Then it was on to Round II.

Five glasses again, blind tasted again. And again, the directive: taste, assess, write, vote; 2 plusses, 2 minuses, 1 neutral. 4 of the 5 lots fared very well; one block fell by the wayside for showing a bit too ripe.

With Round III came the “proper” assemblage process: two glasses; one with the “control” (in this case, the First Assemblage), one with an “addition.” A and B. Taste, assess, write, vote. Plus or Minus.

Eric&Shun_Pouring

Eric Baugher & Shun Ishikubo

“A” took it by a nose, 5 to 4. A 7% addition of South Slope South Cabernet (S3).

Round IV. Two glasses again. A and B. Control (now including S3) and Addition.  “B” essentially sweeps; a 7-2 majority. A blend of Camp and Back Hills falls by the side of the vineyard road.

Paul_Tasting

Paul Draper

Round V, an override! I am on the right side of history for this one; I alone voted with Paul and Eric in favor of a 10% addition of 10-acre cab, and as is his right, Paul opted for the addition. None complained, it had been a tough vote.

David Gates

David Gates

Round VI, we would find out later, found us debating the future of a block I’d loved on its own; my colleague Amy as well, joined by David Gates; however, David, a veteran of the assemblages, predicted it would not, in the end, be “assembled.” He was right, it lost out to a 6-3 majority in favor of the control. But I am holding out for a solo bottling; on its own, the block is beautiful.

Paul&John_Talking

Paul Draper & John Olney

Round VII, the final round of the Assemblage. “A” took the majority, which was the control, but Paul and John came out swinging in favor of the addition; a small block of stressed Merlot. To be continued …

And then came the final round. A 6-wine blind vertical of Monte Bello; the preceding 5 vintages, plus the “new” 2012.

MonteBelloVertical

I wrote “proper” tasting notes on each, and was able to spot almost all of them as what they were, though much to my surprise, I confused the 2009 and the 2007 (which, I would say, says a great deal for how the 2007 is currently showing, given the overwhelmingly positive critical response we’ve received for the 2009 of late –Wine Advocate: 98 points, International Wine Report: 97 points, International Wine Cellar: 96 points, Wine Spectator: 95 points–given that we’re currently offering the 2007 in our tasting rooms, perhaps a good time to visit!)

But anyhow, in addition to my “proper” notes, I also wrote a spontaneous Haiku in response to each:

2009 Monte Bello
A walk through the trees;
wet, the path, twilit, the leaves.
Into the green mist.

2008 Monte Bello
The red blushes of
beauty; luxuriant youth,
serene  age; timeless.

2007 Monte Bello
As a great trunk’s broad
shoulders grow, ask yourself: Which
is stronger? Roots? Limbs?

2011 Monte Bello
Sweet soul perfection
of campground wisdom; as with
smoke, so with memories.

2012 Monte Bello (2nd Assemblage)
There is strength to fear
and strength to love; run from one,
run to the other.

2010 Monte Bello
Elegance within
a corset; beauty of denial,
of promise: a dream

~

When all was said and done, a new Assemblage had been born: The 2nd Assemblage. The new details are as follows:

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc 7% Petit Verdot, 13.6% ABV

Welcome.

~

As we do every year, we continue to invite our Monte Bello Collector Members to experience firsthand the burgeoning development of the vintage that will one day be theirs; they have now seen the 2012 Monte Bello in its Component state (for more, please click here), in its 1st Assemblage incarnation (for more, please click here), and next weekend, they’ll sample that which we have just created, the 2nd Assemblage. And if history repeats itself, it’s quite likely this will be the Final Assemblage, meaning this will be the last opportunity to taste this wine before it goes into bottle for its long hibernation; not to awaken again until its release in 2015. For more information about this very special event, please see below:

Final Monte Bello Tasting
Saturday & Sunday, May 18th & 19th
11-5pm each day
Cupertino, CA

This event is for Monte Bello Collector members only (a total of 4 attendees per membership), there is no fee to attend, and an RSVP is required. We look forward to seeing you!

Eventbrite - Monte Bello Final Assemblage Tasting - May 18th & 19th, 11am-5pm

A Mazzoni Island of the Mind ~or~ First Friday at Monte Bello!

May 3, 2013

Greetings!

It’s May 3rd, and it’s First Friday at Monte Bello!

IMG_0010

For our May edition of this very special monthly event, we will be celebrating the release of the new 2009 Mazzoni Home Ranch Zinfandel! The 2009 is one of the most notably zinfandel-forward Mazzoni offerings in recent years, and while it shows all the compact rusticity and culinarily companionable spice and acidity we’ve come to expect from this old-vine vineyard, it does so in a comparatively lusher, more fruit-driven fashion, and as such, is already showing beautifully with just two years in the bottle.

09ZMZ1-front

And dig this!

We’ll be pouring the 2009 in a two-vintage vertical with its predecessor, the 2008 Mazzoni!

08ZMZ-front-01

This is the last chance we’ll have the ’08 on hand as a current release, making this an especially rarefied tasting opportunity.

Making today, a good day to be a member.

So remember, if you’re a member, remember:

First Friday!

~

First Friday at Monte Bello
Date: 5/3/2013

May 3rd ~ 4-7pm

Please join us on the first Friday of each month for an evening affair of delicious wines and small bites. While this is a Member Event, we are more than happy to host guests of our members as well! We’ll have some delicious small bites on offer for your enjoyment.

Members with shipments available for pick up at this event:
ATP – Monthly
ATP – Consolidated
(be sure to note that you are picking up on your RSVP)

Eventbrite - First Friday at Monte Bello - May 2013

~

For a bit of history on the Mazzoni Home Ranch:

zmz

A Ridge Vineyards Spring Release YouTube-A-Looza!

April 18, 2013

Moist spring moon -

raise a finger

and it drips.

-Issa

 

Who is it for,

this pillow on the floor,

in the twilight of spring?

-Buson

 

Oh, these spring days!

A nameless little mountain,

wrapped in morning haze!

-Basho

~

Springtime is magical in so many ways, not the least of which is the arrival of our New Spring Releases!

If you’re a member, you’ve received them

If you’ve visited, you’ve tasted them.

If you’ve been shopping, you’ve bought them.

But for those of you for whom the Wine Spring has not yet arrived, you can experience the flowing magnificence of these new wines virtually via the moving image!

Behold, a Ridge Vineyards Spring Release YouTube-A-Looza!

~


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Tasting A True Rarity: 2001 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs

April 11, 2013

An honest-to-goodness treat today; the opportunity to taste a genuine rarity: the 2001 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs.

I tasted with my colleague Sam Howles-Banerji.

We opened, we double-decanted, we poured, we smelled …

Indian food.

I couldn’t think of anything but Indian food.

I was thinking Coriander, Cardamom, and Cumin.

As Sam said, The Three Cs.

Not so much turmeric. As discussed; the wine was less “yellow-y” than that.

Really, just The Three Cs.

Sam swirled, Sam tasted, Sam wrote.

01zls1

Can you spot the oh-so-rare Lytton Springs?

Just a fascinating display of aromatics altogether; totally fascinating.

Unbelievably, Sam happened to have brought Indian for lunch.

“Should I bring it out?”

“Yes!”

He brought it out. We smelled. The Three Cs indeed.

That said, with an hour of aeration (when I began my notes), the exotic spice had subsided to a certain extent, reclining back into a pleasantly rustic cushion of almost claret-like sophistication.

The first frequencies on the palate were immediately lower-tuned; rich with dark berry notes and black herbs; speckled with a punchy minerality.

The earthiness transformed into something more savory and meatier mid-palate; not gamey per se, but with a certain lightly charred umami melody.

The finish was a pristine act of reconciliation, drawing spice, earth and herb together with layered fruit and a sweeter note unique to the lingering post-finish echo.

In summary, a delicious wine in an excellent stage of development.

What a treat!

Would You Like To Chat With Paul Draper While You Taste Wine Together?

April 11, 2013

 

MBC_XX_PaulDraper_TheNoseKnows

Because you can.

You see, due to the magic of technology, Paul Draper can be beamed right  into your living room –this Friday night– for a live wine tasting. And you can be beamed into his.

~

Virtual Winemaker Tasting of Spring Releases

Friday, April 12, 2013 from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM (PST)

~

It will be like Princess Leia’s hologram and FDR’s Fireside Chats all rolled into one.

You, Paul, the night, and the music.

Engage.

The tasting. The chat. The magic.

He sips. He sip. You make a comment. He chuckles appreciatively, compliments you on your palate.

He sips, smiles. You smile too. This is amazing.

Wine after wine. The banter, the insights, the stories.

You remember France. So does Paul.

You like lamb. Paul does too.

This is amazing.

You note a hint of cedar. Paul notes eucalyptus.

You, a pleased half-laugh. Paul, a knowing grin.

This is amazing.

Then, finally, the last sip of Cabernet.

It’s over. The lights dim.

Paul says, “Beam me up, Christopher.”

And then he’s gone.

Like The Cat and the Hat and his proverbial moss-covered three-handled family gradunza, he is gone.

But with you

remains a memory

that will last

forever.

~

vt_header

Join us live online Friday, April 12th at 6pm PT / 9pm ET for a virtual tasting of our new spring releases!

RSVP here: springvirtualtasting2013.eventbrite.com/

Taste along online as our winemakers explore the spring release wines and provide you a wealth of information about the winemaking techniques, vineyard history, food pairing ideas, longevity of the wines, and the unique aspects about each vintage. You’ll be able to ask questions in real time and hear what the winemakers have to say about these exciting new wines.

Wines to be tasted:
(Download a tasting mat to follow along!)

ATP Spring Releases
2008 Lytton Estate Syrah
2009 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel
(Join ATP to regularly receive these wines)

Z List Spring Releases
2011 Geyserville
2011 East Bench
(Join Z List to regularly receive these wines)

Monte Bello Collector
2011 Estate Chardonnay
201o Estate Cabernet
(Join Monte Bello Collector to regularly receive these wines)

The Nights of Buchignani

April 5, 2013

Days of Wine & Roses, Nights of Buchignani.

The ’09 drops … tonight.

09zbg1

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel

Preparation: Double-decanted, aerated approximately ½ hour …

Appearance: Incredible color: an amethystian core enveloped in a broad weave of mulberry highlights and a multi-shaded striation of magentian variations. Fascinating to watch the balance of hues change in the light; well worth upholding your crystal to the nearest light source …

Aromatics: Good strong mineral component to the bouquet; a particularly “wet” sort of stone character … A winsome decadence prevails via a subtle note of Chambord, but the dominant trait is a seed-and-sweet dark berry preserve layer. Not as earthy as some previous vintages of this offering; the aromatic emphasis is definitely mineral-and-fruit …

Front: Pleasantly spry acidity, with a wide spread of flavor that runs-cheek-to-cheek with fresh ripe fruit and a subtle architecture. Some black plum sweetness lends a touch of extracted depth, but the overall feel is light and precise …

Mid-Palate: Fairly austere mid-palate; not overtly viscous or ripe, the comparatively restrained fruit spectrum stays in the background, allowing the powdery tannins to come forward, in the company of the foreshadowed minerality evident in the aromatics …

Finish: Straightforwardly built; focused and clean, with a lingering black herb coda that carries with it a subtle savoriness …

Summary: One of the fresher, cleaner, more fruit-driven Buchignani Ranch Zinfandels to come down the pipe, with a great deal of complexity wrapped in a form-fitting architecture that favors compression over volume.

The Very First ATP Wine I Ever Gave My Dad (Is Coming To First Friday!)

April 1, 2013

There are four people from whom I learned what it means to be a man in this world.

What it means to be a man, and how to be a man.

One of them is imaginary: Rick, from the movie Casablanca.

Rick

(Historical note: I got married in white coat and black bow tie!)

The second is my missus. Bless her her patience and her love.

The third was my Grandpa. A scholar, an author, a musician, and a sculptor (Kirk Douglas holds one of the largest private collections of my Grandpa’s work!). I learned so much from him. Perhaps most importantly, he taught me about Lightnin’ Hopkins.

Lightnin

And then there is my Dad.

The greatest, kindest, smartest man I’ve ever known. His love for my Mom and I taught me just about everything there is to know about being a husband and a father, and when I finally got old enough to be able to understand the books he wrote, he became my teacher for just about everything else I hadn’t already learned from him.

Dad

And, he is a lover of wine.

~

As a student, you want to impress your teacher. As a husband, you want to impress your spouse. As a son, you want to impress your father.

So when I began at Ridge, it was deeply symbolic for me to begin offering my Dad wine.

Which brings me to the subject of this story. The very first ATP wine I ever gave my Dad.

The 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel.

04zbg1_labelcloseup

Surprised?

At face value, maybe an odd choice. It’s not one of our most famous wines. It’s not the Monte Bello.

But it’s a special wine. It’s a small-production, winery-only wine. And it’s an old-vine vineyard, family-owned and farmed. And its origins go back to Italy (my family and I lived in Italy for quite some time when I was young). And it’s funky. And my Dad likes funky.

So that’s the wine I gave him. And he loved it. And I was happy.

That was years ago. We’ve had many, many, many Ridge wines since then. We’ve had Monte Bellos from the years we lived in Italy, to the year his grand-daughter was born. We’ve had old zins and young zins, Rhones and Bordeauxs. My Dad has even conceded his affection for our Chardonnays, though he remains a red man at heart. And, he’s seen his pronounced disdain for the movie Sideways (after seeing the movie, he swore he’d never drink Pinot Noir again, and commenced buying Merlot by the barrel-ful instead) rewarded by Ridge’s return to Merlot.

But the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel remains a special wine for us.

Which made it all the more special that we were able to enjoy another bottle of it this past Thanksgiving. You can read a summary of our reaction here, but suffice it to say it was truly wonderful. Delicious, even.

Which means I am ESPECIALLY excited for April First Friday, because we’re going to be sharing this very special wine with our guests.

I should confess though, that the experience is likely to be bittersweet for me. There is almost none of this wine left, and we are pulling the last 5 cases from Reserve just for this event.

Which means, if the wine shows anything like it did last Thanksgiving, there isn’t likely to be much left after Friday.

But I’ll always have the memories.

As will you, if you can join us.

You might even want to invite your Dad.

~

The occasion for selecting the 2004 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel is in fact the release of another Buchignani Ranch offering, the new 2009 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel. We will of course be showcasing this wine as well. And on top of that, we’ll also be pouring for our guests our newly-released trio of Estate wines: the 2011 Estate Chardonnay, the 2010 Estate Merlot, and the 2010 Estate Cabernet.

As my Grandpa used to say, not so very bad …

__

First Friday at Monte Bello
April 5th ~ 4-7pm

Please join us on the first Friday of each month for an evening affair of delicious wines and small bites. While this is a Member Event, we are more than happy to host guests of our members as well!

Members with shipments available for pick up at this event: ATP-Monthly
(be sure to note that you are picking up on your RSVP)

Eventbrite - First Friday at Monte Bello - April 2013

In Jimsomare Country

March 8, 2013

08zjm1

2008 Ridge Vineyards Jimsomare Zinfandel

One sniff and I know I’m in Jimsomare country; a great and strange place; funkily mystical, mountainously ghosty, soulfully perfect. Jimsomare.

This is rarefied juice; pure Black Mountain, the aroma and flavor of another California; Prospector Zinfandel, Cowboy Zinfandel, Pioneer Zinfandel; this is 5 acres worth of Occurrence Appearing Of Itself, of wine singing We Got More Soul, Dig it …

The nose is rich with saturated blue and black fruit, fragrant tobacco and autumn leaf, and a dense brambliness that brings both berry and branch to the fore; these middle harmonics are undergirded by a firm bassline of pemmican, persimmon, and fig, and topped by a tenor line of loganberry sweetness.

The palate is uniquely supple, with a deft braiding of cool-climate acid and old-vine concentration. Fruit character is almost elusively complex; at once moodily beguiling, laconically demonstrative, and languidly sensual. No one trait dominates, and while the essential core is a dark one, there is a wild mountain liveliness that lends a smoldering intensity to the redder notes of the flavor spectrum.

The finish is perfectly executed — lengthwise and depthwise — and the integrative endeavor has prospered through several years of bottle age, making this a wine that is just now entering its first perfect stage. This is Keith Richards of “Satisfaction” days.


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