Archive for the ‘Tasting Flights’ Category

ZAP!

January 27, 2012

That’s right folks, ZAP! Not Shazam, not Wonder Twin Powers Activate (form of an Ah So, shape of a Zinfandel bottle!), but ZAP!

Not familiar? ‘Tis an acronymn, and it stands for Zinfandel Advocates & Producers. From their Mission Statement:

ZAP and its members revel in Zinfandel’s mysterious history and its evolving story fuels the embers of discovery, entrepreneurship and agriculture that are truly American. ZAP is the only organization that has established and provided funding for education and research to study the history, genetics and propagation of a wine varietal to ensure its future. ZAP and its members not only enjoy growing and drinking Zinfandel, but they also value its character and its heritage.

Meaning, in short, these folks LOVE Zinfandel.

Chances are, if you’re reading this blog, you’re probably already aware of ZAP, and quite possibly, you’ve actually attended their legendary Zinfandel Festival.

We’re huge supporters, and we participate every year. The highlight of the lovefest is of course the Grand Tasting. This is essentially Tantric Oenophilia.

We’re believers, and accordingly, we like to bring a really special roster of wines every year to share at the Grand Tasting. This year is no different. Dig the list:

1. 2009 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel –

2. 2009 Lytton Estate Zinfandel –

3. 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel –

4. 2010 East Bench Zinfandel –

5. 2010 Geyserville – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

6. 2010 Lytton Springs – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

7. 2010 Lytton Estate Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

8. 2010 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

As is hopefully evident, we like to put on a show. Come see us. We’ve got lovely wine to pour for you.

“Holy Ah So Wineman, it’s Zinfandel!”

 

We Feel The Earth Move Under Our Feet: Lytton Springs & Winter Wineland!

January 9, 2012

Winter Wineland is undeniably one of the biggest events to hit Sonoma Wine Country in any given year, and this year it’s going to be even bigger. Why? Because it’s the 20th Anniversary!

The theme for this very significant 2012 celebration is Wine ~ Art ~ Education, and each participating winery will  be either hosting an artist, or offering a special educational component to their tasting experience.

Winter Wineland
Wine ~ Art ~ Education
January 14 – 15, 2012
11am – 4pm each day

Hmmm … Art, or Education?

Tough call for Ridge, but in the end, we’ve selected Education as our governing theme, and the team at Lytton Springs has come up with something really and truly extraordinary.

As you probably already know, single-vineyard winemaking is at the absolute core of our endeavor at Ridge Vineyards, and our belief in the importance of terroir, and the honest, authentic representation thereof, drives just about everything we do in both the vineyard and the winery. The importance of our foundational belief in accurately, transparently, faithfully carrying the vineyard to the bottle with as little interference as is possible cannot be  overestimated, and without this faith, this discipline, this credo, questions of sustainability, organics, etc, are essentially rendered hollow. Sustaining a property you don’t believe in is but an exercise in process, nothing more, nothing less. For Ridge, we don’t farm sustainably and/organically for any reason other than that it’s the absolute best and most effective way to both honor the land, and make the best wine possible. To make wines of place is to embrace natural methods and traditions; to embrace natural methods and traditions is to make wines of place.

The word itself can be controversial; terroir.

But taken literally, it’s essentially just a reference to the earth, and as such, we thought perhaps the most illuminating answer to the question of education at Winter Wineland would be to devise a presentation revolving around the earth itself; the soil: that pure miasma of nutrient, mineral, and history from which a vine springs forth to eventually present its offspring at the altar of vinification.

But lest ye fear a heavy-handed dogma-laden session in the classroom, fear not!

The endlessly imaginative team at Lytton Springs has instead devised a rather disarmingly playful way to enjoy both your wines AND your education. After tasting four single-vineyard wines produced from four of our most legendary and highly regarded vineyard sites, guests will have the opportunity to experience a soil exhibit featuring actual soil samples from each of the relevant four vineyards, with accompanying text describing the conditions, characteristics, and qualities of each property.

Once digested (wine AND knowledge!), guests will be given the opportunity to try and match the soils to the wines via the submission of a contest entry. Once the event is over, entries will be reviewed, and a winner will be drawn from the correct submissions. Hopefully needless to say, the prize will be … ahem … groovy.

To see our calendar entry for this amazing event, please click here, and to skip right on ahead and purchase tickets, please click here.

See you at Winter Wineland!

In Praise Of A First Friday Past: Oh, What A Time We Had!

January 7, 2012

It’s 2012 now.

Twelve months, twelve First Fridays.

One done, eleven to go.

It was a beautiful evening on the mountain …

And First Friday was nearly afoot …

The nibbles were nigh …

Including my 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache-infused Marinated Mushrooms and Mixed Olive Tapenade

And the line-up …

…of wine …

… was ready.

All we needed, was you.

And then suddenly, there you were!

And we were very, very happy to see you!

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Wine Bloggers Tasting, Final Edition, 2011!

November 27, 2011

Ladies & Gentleman, the final 2011 Wine Bloggers Tasting is coming, and if you write a wine blog, or a tangentially related blog (food, culture, etc.), and can potentially be in Northern California on December 11th, then  you are potentially invited. I say “potentially,” because this edition’s theme (there is ALWAYS a theme) will, of necessity, restrict our head count somewhat. Need a clue? See below …

Anyhow, just in case you’re not familiar, we are into our second year now of hosting our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and it’s been a lovely, lovely success to date. We host it quarterly, and each time, we invite an inside circle of elite wine bloggers (each session features a few returning vets, and the guarantee of a few new faces as well) to enjoy a special selection of wines selected around a particular theme. Past Wine Bloggers Tasting themes have included:

–Tasting The Exact Same Wines That Robert Parker Just Reviewed

–The Acrostic Anagram Sessions

–Limited-Production, Winery-Only

–Lytton Springs Vertical

–Monte Bello Library List Offerings

and more …

To see a rundown on previous posts related to this singular tasting series, please click here.

And now, on to the official announcement:

Wine Bloggers Tasting #4, 2011
Sunday, December 11, 1pm
Ridge Vineyard/Monte Bello
Attendance By Invitation Only

As to the theme? See below …

Still no idea? No worries, it’s a particularly good one!

So, want to attend? Let me know! You can comment on this post, or respond via either Facebook or Twitter. And one thing to note, if you’ve not yet attended one of these tastings, please make sure to include a link to your blog.

Looking forward to hearing from you soon!

Black Friday Tasting Update …

November 20, 2011

If you’ve been following this blog, you’ll already know that we’re offering quite a groovy tasting opportunity on Black Friday, 11.25.11 (please click the link for more details).

As part of our By-Appointment Estate Tastings on that day, we’ll be including two of our very new, very rare Historic Vineyards Series wines, the 2009 Torre Ranch Merlot, and the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon!

If you’re not familiar with how these mid-week by appointment tastings work, here’s the scoop, and it couldn’t be easier. Basically, just go to our website, click the Visit link in the header, then click on either Lytton Springs or Monte Bello; whichever location you wish to visit. Then, scroll down the page until you see the “Book Your Reservation” header. Enter your number of guests, and select 11. 25.11 in the date field. Assuming there is still availability, two times will come up, 11am and 2pm. Select your slot of choice, and just fill in the details requested. Boom, you’re done! You’ll receive an automated confirmation e-mail, and you’re in like Flynn.

These tastings are semi-private, seated, and hosted, and they are a fantastic opportunity to experience our single-vineyard wines.

And on Black Friday, these special tastings will be all the more magic by virtue of the Historic Vineyard Series being included.

So, book soon, the slots are filling up!

And here is a little marketing material sample from the Monte Bello coffers, to give ya just a bit of the flavor of what goes on up here on the mountain …

A Very Special Black Friday Tasting Opportunity!

November 18, 2011

EXTRA! EXTRA! Historic Vineyard Series Wines Available To Taste On Black Friday!

It’s becoming quite the tradition for us to do a little something special on Black Friday, that semi-infamous post-Thanksgiving shopping frenzy that so regularly pocks the countenances of our collective social marketplaces.

Last year, we put on quite a delightful series of tastings (you can see a run-down on the 2010 Black Friday here: http://blog.ridgewine.com/2010/11/22/turn-black-friday-red/), and I think for all concerned it was a very welcome alternative to being trampled underfoot by a maddened gate-crashing mob storming the doors of their local Wal-Mart at 4am, in search of one last remaining copy of “Halo” or one last “Let’s Rock Elmo.”

This year will be no different!

You will have two choices, this:

Or this:

The choice seems clear to me.

In all seriousness, while avoiding the lunacy of Black Friday is certainly incentive enough, we actually have a much better reason for you to visit. As part of the private tastings on offer on Black Friday, we’ll be showcasing … wait for it, wait for it … two of our new, never-before released, Historic Vineyard Series wines! Ah, the volta …

Have you heard about these very special wines? If you’re a Ridge Vineyards Wine Club Member, you certainly have. And if you’re not a member, well, this might just be a really good chance to experience just why membership is so decidedly the grooviest of badges to affix to the cub scout or brownie outfit of your aesthetic life. Meaning, these very rare wines are only available to members, but for just one day, and one day only, we’re going to make them available for tasting to all who secure a reservation! And, if you’re a member, you’ll be able to purchase as well. And if not yet a member? Well …

Anyhow, just to back track a bit and give you the rundown on these wines, the gist of the story is this;  courtesy of a long and educational engagement with our own unique history here on the Monte Bello Estate, we have been able to delve deeply into the pre-Ridge story, and part of what we’ve been able to do is not only identify the key families who first planted on our mountain, but also ascertain their stories, and the boundaries surrounding their original plantings. And with those families, lines, and properties properly identified, we’ve been able, in a sort of feat of viticultural gerrymandering, to conceptually redraw the lot lines on our property so as to make wines that hew to the original plantings, and bottle them under the names of the original families! It’s quite a unique addition to our primary bottlings from this property (the Monte Bello and Estate Cabernets), and we’re very excited about this extraordinary new series.

2009 is the very first vintage of our Historic Vineyard Series wines on offer, and this Black Friday will be the first “public” opportunity to taste two of them, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2009 Torre Ranch Merlot. This is truly a tasting opportunity not to be missed, as these wines couldn’t possibly be more rare, more significant, more cachet-laden, or more delicious! Did I mention these are also single-varietal wines! That’s right, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% Merlot. How’s that for rare and special?

Here is a bit of history of the two families:

Torre

In 1890, John Torre, a successful Nevada cattle rancher purchased one hundred acres on Monte Bello Ridge, planted vines, and built a barn atop a cellar dug into the hillside. In 1908, John’s nephew Vincent and wife, Dominica, left Nevada to run the vineyards and winery at Monte Bello, acquiring the property upon John’s death in 1913. The Torre winery produced mostly zinfandel, selling it for shipment by rail to New York.

Prohibition closed the Torre winery in 1920 and the vines died out over time. After several changes of ownership, William Short acquired the property and replanted to cabernet sauvignon and a small amount of chardonnay. By 1959, Short, weary of the work, sold the land to four scientists from Stanford Research Institute.

Initially, the partners intended to sell the grapes, but one of them, Dave Bennion, made a half-barrel of wine from the 1959 harvest—his first foray into winemaking. Its quality convinced the partners to re-bond the old winery, and to undertake the venture that would become Ridge Vineyards.

Dave, with his partners, went on to make seven commercial vintages (1962-1968). Paul Draper—impressed by the exceptional 1962 and 1964—joined the group as winemaker in 1969. Paul assisted with that vintage and made the 1970 and 1971 on his own, the last to be made in the old Torre Winery.

Today the oldest vines are those planted by William Short in 1949. The old Torre winery building now houses the Monte Bello tasting room and group facilities.

Klein

Pierre Klein (1855-1922) was an Alsatian who came to California in 1875. For years, as manager of the restaurant in San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel, he championed the best of California wines. In 1888 he purchased 160 acres on Monte Bello Ridge (currently known as the Jimsomare Ranch.)

Determined to produce a fine claret in the style of the Médoc, he planted Bordeaux varieties on their own roots. In the early 1890s, he began selling his Mira Valle wines to several San Francisco restaurants; in 1895, he entered his wine in the Bordeaux Exposition, where he took an honorable mention At the Paris Exposition of 1900, he won two gold medals—one for his Claret, the other for his “Grand Vin”—known as the “Château Lafitte of America,”

When phylloxera attacked his vines after the turn of the century, he did not replant. Retiring in 1910, he sold the property in 1913. In 1936, it was purchased by the Schwabacher family of San Francisco who renamed the property “Jimsomare” from their names Jim, Sophie, and Marie.

Although Klein’s Bordeaux varietals had died out, a small nineteenth-century zinfandel vineyard survived. Ridge bought those grapes, and made its first Jimsomare Zinfandel in 1968. Ridge convinced the family to replant the Bordeaux varietals, and a small amount of chardonnay. In exchange, Ridge provided rootstock, and a promise to purchase the grapes. The first cabernet bottling was in 1978.

By the late 1990s, the Schwabachers no longer wished to manage day-to-day farming, and signed a long-term lease with Ridge. Today, Ridge farms the original Klein property as part of its Monte Bello Estate.

And if all that isn’t enough to pique your curiosity, I’m now going to get going on some tasting notes, to hopefully & proverbially whet your viticultural whistle as regards these extremely rare and historic, limited-production, member-only, single-varietal offerings:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Torre Ranch Merlot

Tremendous post-decanting development on aromatic display; at first whiff, the nose is dominated by strong baker’s chocolate notes, with only minor hints of peppercorn and tarragon, but as the wine airs out, fascinatingly strong strains of fig and amber liqueur emerge. The bowl-view bespeaks a fair amount of girth to come; big, slow-moving legs languidly taking their time down the bowl-sides (raise up mama, get yer big leg offa mine!), and first taste does nothing to dispel this foreshadowing; the wine is mouth-filling to the nth, with strongly granular tannins on full display, and a good wallop of low-tone fruit spreading out all across the front-palate. Layered under this hearty spread of harvest berry and plum lays a layer of beurre noir and toasty caramel, and across the top, a slightly minty, cool-climate herbaceousness. The wine is still quite young, no doubt about it, and structure is still the dominate component, but again, with air, there is a good array of fruit notes beginning to show their colors as well. Mirroring the color, which is decidedly concentrated and rich, the fruit notes are dense as well; not at all extracted, mind you, but expressing their collective essences with a vengeance. This is a lot of wine in the glass, and a fascinating inversion of the Merlot-Cab relationship; here, the Merlot is structure, depth, tannin, and concentration, bringing muscularity and girth to the table, albeit in a broodingly romantic package. A most baroque wine, this is viticultural poetry of the most saturated kind … Purple prose-ish, if you’ll forgive the pun …

2009 Ridge Vineyards Klein Cabernet Sauvignon

Unbelievable aromatics; the quintessentiallity of cool-climate cab in action; minerality, spice, herbality, spice, percolation, spice, and spice! And a singular relationship between color and body; if anything, denser and more vibrant than the merlot, yet swifter of leg and less-viscous of body; rivulets a-runnin’ (brooks run into the ocean, ocean run into the sea!). Extremely elegant mouthfeel, with acidity on display for days upon days upon days; such vibrancy and bounce for a California solo-varietal cab! The fruit here is definitely high in tone, lots of both sweet and sour cherries, strong pluot notes, and a bit of young raspberry as well. The tannins here are of the extremely refined sort; soft, supple, resolved, and covered, and the mid-palate structure retains its bounce while spreading its fruit in a comparatively wider arc.  The finish is a deceptive one; at first swallow, the youth of the wine seems almost restrictive as regards retaining some flavor in the aftermath, but lo and behold, with 5 or 10 seconds of wait-time, a delicious lingering decadence starts to emerge, perhaps hinting at the richening to come. This is a wine with a lot of growing still to do, no question, but it’s expressive and buoyant now, and exciting beyond compare. It’s easy to see how the ying and yang of cab and merlot from this mountain work together, but there is something sweetly, intimately refreshing about seeing these varietals in their solo and separate fleshes; they have a home-ness to them that, for all their grace and power, the assemblages of Monte Bello and Estate don’t necessarily evidence; this is the farmgirl or boy that you fall in love with for their innocence, their purity, their honor and their integrity. They don’t flash, but they’re honest, and there is no more reassuring lap to rest your weary head in.

To secure a reservation for these very special tastings, at either our Lytton Springs or Monte Bello Estates, please follow the following links:

Lytton Springs

Monte Bello

As an alternative, you can also e-mail us at reservations@ridgewine.com.

And last but not least, here is a bit of video documenting a tasting session of these wines earlier today:

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holiday Packs are here!

October 28, 2011

It’s only October, I know, but in order to make certain we assemble the finest selection of wines possible to escort you through your holiday season, we begin the tasting process early, and I am now happy to report that the final collections have been confirmed. We are extremely excited by this year’s offerings, particularly as we’ve included a rather stunning array of library wines in the various packs, and we’re all extremely eager to share with you the results.

In order to kick things off properly, we scheduled an internal library tasting of wines included in the holiday packs, with members of the Ridge team participating from three different locations: our Warehouse in Milpitas (where both the warehouse and customer service groups are based), our Lytton Springs Estate, and here at Monte Bello. Using a web feed, winemakers Paul Draper and Eric Baugher led all three locations through the wines on offer, while yours truly manned the camera, and peppered our hosts with questions.

Paul Draper and myself, talking shop in advance of the tasting ...

(photo by Sonja Seaberg)

I think all concerned came away from the tasting feeling extremely excited by, and energized about, this year’s holiday selections; the wines are in tremendous form, and armed with all the additional insights we gleaned from the opportunity to taste with Paul and Eric, I think everyone is beside themselves with anticipation as regards talking these wines with you. And you, and you, and you …

 
For myself, I humbly offer the following tasting notes (to see more about this year’s holiday offerings, please click here):
 
 
 

2005 Ridge Vineyards Stone Ranch Zinfandel

While planted on Geyserville soil, these vines traditionally produce a lighter, more fruit-forward, more easy-drinking style, and accordingly, the fruit is often held out of the Geyserville assemblage, in favor of a separate bottling, under the Stone Ranch designation. Such was certainly the case in 2005; a notably ripe year.

 A kindred spirit of sorts to the Carmichael — another approachably fruit-driven ATP offering — the Stone Ranch nonetheless shows a slightly higher-tone profile, evidencing a more bramble-driven red-fruit character than the comparatively moodier Carmichael.

 To my palate, the carignane continues to lend great acidity to the overall mouthfeel, while allowing the chalkiness of the minerality pride of place simultaneously. Hints of oak-derived sweet vanillin speckle the early aromatics, while traces of coriander and citrus peel enliven the finish. With half a decade’s worth of bottle age, this wine has settled into a surprisingly (and rewardingly!) complex offering that nonetheless retains its youthful lightness and approachability.

 Should prove to be a great Autumnal offering, perfect with appetizers and first courses at the holiday table.

 2004 Ridge Vineyards Oltranti Zinfandel

 One of only two vintages crafted from the younger zinfandel planting on the legendary Mazzoni Home Ranch, this offering is as unique a wine as any released under the ATP banner. Buoyed by the small introductions of older vine carignane and petite sirah, this has historically been a notably tannin-forward, intensely structured offering. With approximately 5 years of bottle age woven into its fabric, it’s still a big wine; a strutting, cocksure wine with its money where its mouth is; meaning, the aromatics offer the promise, and the body delivers the goods.

Autumnality is front-and-center as regards its “at table” personality; loads of dried fruits on the nose, with shades of mincemeat, figs, and toasted nuts calling up all sorts of holiday reflections. The mouthfeel at point-of-entry is almost impossibly round; a mouthful of a mouthfeel, as it were. Not content to wow you with physical prowess, however, the Oltranti serves up some great tobacco, bramble, and forestation as well; the second and third-tier supporting characteristics give a unique lift to this fleshily omnipresent Atlas. A great offering to meet the middle of your holiday meal; the entrée!

2003 Ridge Vineyards Independence School

A true collector’s item in every sense of the term, this is the first release of what would become our Old School designation, and the only one to actually carry the “Independence School” name. This, as with the Stone Ranch, is ostensibly Geyserville fruit, but as with the Stone Ranch (though for very different reasons!), the blocks that make up this wine are held out of the Geyserville assemblage due to their singular personalities. In this wine’s case, the fruit is held out for a separate small-batch, winery-only offering in acknowledgement of its traditionally riper, sweeter, more fruit-forward character. Accordingly, expect unctuousness in spades, voluptuousness in decadently seasoned excess, and luxuriant fruit at all points across the palate.

While there is little that one could claim as tame about this wine, I am consistently and pleasantly surprised by its balance; this is an athlete of an offering; you experience the grace, and are hard-pressed to remember that it comes via endless hours in the weight room. A great wine with which to close a hearty holiday meal; cheeses, fruits, and chocolates should abound, as friendships are re-solidified, and family bonds affirmed.

“Dusi Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, 2006 & 2005

Quite a treat to taste these side-by-side! Benito Dusi’s ranch is such a legendary fixture of the Ridge portfolio, and while our Paso Robles zinfandel is one of our most consistently shaped offerings, it is often via the comparatively more mercurial Dusi Ranch designation that one comes to truly know and love these vines, and this vineyard. Traditionally comprised of blocks held out of the larger Paso Robles assemblage by virtue of their comparatively riper, sweeter profile, the Dusi is actually capable of not only showing unexpectedly complex characteristics, but evidencing authentically enticing seasonal variables as well.

These two vintages are, in many ways, a perfect study in contrast. Conventional wisdom (if anything about Ridge can be said to be conventional!) would certainly propose the Dusi offering as a ripe, warm-climate zinfandel, and the 2006 vintage does not disappoint in this regard. It wears its natural fruit on its shoulder, but also shows itself to have been (as it was) the product of a submerged cap fermentation; there are tannins, there is earth, and there is some darkness under all that concentratedly rich fruit. But fruit is the word, is the word, is the word …

That said, if you expect more of the same when heading into the ’05, be prepared for an adjustment of sorts. Sure, it’s still warm-climate, old-vine zin, and sure there is a lot of fruit on offer, but there is also acidity! Not something one normally expects from this combination of region and varietal. And in fact, there is a whole host of structural components on offer; in addition to acidity, there are some nicely coated and resolving tannins, there is some herbality and woodsiness, and there are some fine layers of fruit as well.

In October of ‘06, Eric Baugher gave a 5 to 6-year projection of longevity for this wine. Were that accurate, we’d be calling this wine to task right now, branding it as being at its peak. But when tasting this wine with Eric and Paul Draper today (October of ’11), I found I was not the only one who thought this wine had years of life still ahead; both Eric and Paul said it was going to “go out”; and go out it will. Certainly drinkable now, but if you want a rarefied library offering to sit on just a bit longer, this might just be your perfect catch.

“Estate Cabernet Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate (now Estate Cabernet), 2005, 2004, and 2003

I admit it. I am spoiled. This should have been one of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life. But I have to confess, I just tasted these wines rather recently, as part of the worldwide #CabernetDay celebration. That said, guess what this was? One of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life! Three truly tremendous vintages, of a truly tremendous wine, tasted in the company of Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and a whole host of my most excellent colleagues; priceless.

It would take pages upon pages to truly navigate the unique history of this designation, and its singular relationship to the Monte Bello, so suffice it to say that one might not be far off the mark in suggesting that, with the 2003 vintage, this designation truly came into its own, emerging out of the shadow of the Monte Bello as its own wine; grown, harvested, and vinted in similar fashion, beneficiary of an equally intense attention to detail, but selected and assembled with an altogether different overarching aesthetic in mind.

Put another way, it’s a hell of a wine, and particularly for the price; meaning, from a price break to quality standpoint, you rarely get this much wine for this little of an investment. And the 2003 is where this really and truly becomes the indisputable case.

All that said, the tasting begins with the 2005. The only vintage of the trio without Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the assemblage, this wine perfectly enacts the growing season that year; preposterously low yields (less than 1 ton an acre) resulting in a deep, dark, concentrated, structure-forward profile. The nose is all chocolate and campfire and s’mores, and the mid-palate is all gluttony and indulgence. That said, it’s still a frighteningly balanced wine; frightening in that it manages to pack all that baroque romanticism and architectural decadence into an almost sexually-charged come-on; you want this wine, because it moves so well, but at the same time, you can’t help but sense the primality lurking just below the surface. One to watch, one to wish for, one to covet.

The 2004 is an altogether different animal, the product of a perversely unusual growing season; one in which the harvesting of Monte Bello (the estate) was essentially bisected; early picking on one side of the October rains, late picking the other. The resulting wine, I will confess, is one of my personal favorites. To borrow a colloquialism, it’s just my kind of funky. It’s a bit rustic, a bit earthy, a bit dirty, a bit bluesy. In short, delicious! The big “B” gets thrown around a lot in wine circles (Bordeaux), much the same way that “Genius” is oft-misused by certain rather purple-y writers in the various arts fields; meaning, if I had a dollar for every tired, derivative, re-hashed, substance-less wine, poem, play, novel, song, album painting, etc. … Anyhow, the point is, that still, to this day, “Bordeaux” is prized as the ultimate comparative; “In a blind tasting, I would have sworn this was a first growth!” And while that’s instructive in certain realms, and nonsensical in others, it serves a purpose here, because this is truly cause for a pause; if your wish is to embrace an American producer who can very successfully and authentically produce wines that are fully in line with all that we hold dear about the legitimately still-great Bordeaux producers, all while doing so in uniquely American fashion, and on top of that, at disarmingly populist price breaks, then please, do yourself a favor, and find a way to drink this wine. It’s just that kind of excellent.

And finally, we return to the 2003, which, as Paul himself noted, is really and truly coming into its own. If you want to seriously wow your holiday table guests, without digging too deep into your cellar, or into your wallet, just serve this out of decanter, and watch the mouths drop. This is a serious, serious wine, and it lacks nothing, and I mean nothing, when compared to bottles of twice the price break, if not more.

 

Scenes From A Wine Blogger Tasting

September 30, 2011

9.25.11 was the date, 1pm was the time, Lytton Springs was the place. Wine Bloggers Tasting, Edition III, 2011.

And before I proceed any further, a big Cheers! to Marcy Gordon, whose blog “Come For The Wine” wins the prize for swiftest post-tasting post. You can read it here.

Now, to return to the task at hand. In attendance (you can click each name to visit each writer’s site):

Alison Smith

Amy Cleary

Chiara Shannon

Dave Tong

Deb Kravitz

Fred Swan

Joe Manekin

Marcy Gordon

Martin Redmond

Richard Jennings

Thea Dwelle

And the theme? (There is always a theme!) Small-production, winery-only library wines from the Lytton Springs Estate Vineyards. I’ll let you visit our blogger’s sites to discover the list of offerings, but suffice it to say it was an exquisitely delicious array of wines!

As has been the case on numerous past occasions, my offerings proved not to be the only wines tasted; this time around, the very excellent Richard Jennings brought a surprise treat for everyone to taste …

Not familiar? Not many people are. The vineyard doesn’t actually exist any longer, and even when it did, it didn’t cast much of a shadow; it wasn’t even an acre’s worth of vines (it was located quite near downtown Sonoma), and this was in fact the last vintage that Ridge produced from this property. To see a review of this wine from back in 1992, you can click here, and as to a current review: it was fantastic! I’m not kidding you, this wine was truly, truly, truly, truly delicious; thanks RJ!

And here’s a bit of video from the tasting:

I wish to offer full and sincere gratitude to our guests. This tasting series has been a fantastic success, and so very much of that is due to the caliber of our bloggers; they’re a fascinating and deeply knowledgeable lot, and I encourage you to read them as often as you can.

I also wish to thank everyone at Lytton Springs for all the help and support. Sandy, Jason, Eliot, and Brandye, I simply couldn’t have done this without you, thank you so much! And thank you to Keren and Joany for so commandingly holding down the fort even as I was poaching your co-workers! And special thanks to John Olney (VP of Winemaking, Lytton Springs) and Muiris Griffin (Assistant Winemaker, Lytton Springs) for being so gracious with your time, and allowing our bloggers to share in, and experience firsthand, the excitement of harvest.

If you’re interested in being a guest at an upcoming tasting, please let us know either by commenting on this post, sending a tweet (#RidgeVineyards, @RidgeVineyards) or posting on our Facebook page (facebook.com/RidgeVineyards).

Cheers!

A Look Back at the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello (i.e. Event pics!)

September 9, 2011

With all the excitement of harvest looming on the horizon, and all the forward looking this involves, it does indeed seem as if a proper “look back” at the Monte Bello Fall Release Event is in order; even though it was only last weekend!

Anyhow …

On behalf of all of us here at Ridge, and most especially the team here at Monte Bello, I wish to thank everyone who attended this extraordinary happening; I don’t know who was happier, our guests, or us!

I drove up that morning nervous, exhausted, stressed, and unhealthily focused. A huge event afoot, and all responsibilities on my shoulders. I was deranged.

What paused me, and fully recalibrated my psyche, was this:

That’s what I was looking at as I was unlocking the driveway gate. I was instantly unwound.

Once inside the Old Winery Barn, it was down to my office. That’s when things started to heat up again. So much to do, so little time. Staff began to arrive, the catering team arrived, the parking team arrived. So many people. I was beginning the routine that would be mine the rest of the day; running laps around the property. I was frenzied.

But pause was soon again given. It was tasting time.

You probably know by know just how good these new vintages are showing. I was happily rediscovering. Point scores are nice, and we’re happy to receive good ones, but at the end of the day, the wines have to perform when it matters most; when YOU’RE tasting them. I mean, sure the new issue of Wine Advocate had just simply showered down praises on these wines (97 points for the 2008 Monte Bello, and 95 points each for the 2009 Lytton Springs and the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay!) …

… but what were YOU going to think?

After tasting the line-up, I felt very good. Very, very good. And I felt that you, too, were going to feel very, very good.

Which was good, given that the first arrivals were starting to arrive, and as expected, the event had drawn out a hearty crop of serious Ridge-o-Philes. And believe you me, these weren’t the only two seriously vintage Ridge shirts I would see, though these are certainl two classic and excellent examples:

So it was go time, and we were ready. We had a great team on hand, the wines were showing beautifully, and some very key members of the winemaking team were in the house:

Paul Draper & Eric Baugher talking Monte Bello winemaking ...

Shun Ishikubo pouring 1992 Monte Bello out of magnum ...

Tara pouring below the ghosts of founders past ...

 

Zani expertly enacts the art of wine tasting merriment ...

 

Pete pours cool as a cucumber in the face of hot demand ...

No discussion of the Fall Release Event at Monte Bello is complete without acknowledging the presence of Pizza Politana. Not only did they manage to actually drive a wood-fired pizza oven up our mountain, but they then proceeded to serve some of the most delicious (and PERFECTLY paired) offerings we’ve ever had the pleasure of placing alongside our wines.
 
 
But a great idea (wood-fired pizza oven truck!), great ingredients (local, sustainable, organic, NorCal farmer’s market fare), and great pairing do not a great event make. It takes great staff, and the folks from Pizza Politana were tops.
 
 
 Things were definitely getting intense. You know when you’re starting to golf-cart the guests in that the event is really starting to happen.
 
 
Then suddenly this …
 
 
 … becomes this!
 
 
Fortunately, there was this to adjourn to (once the collective tummy was full up on pizza and wine!) …
 
 
Yeah, that’ll do …
 
 
 What a day, what a day …
 
When I began assembling the components of what have become this post, I was looking for one image, something that could somehow capture the magic of it all; I found this, and figured I had it …
 
 
Pizza and Monte Bello. Perfect.
 
But in looking through all the images I’d shot over the day, there was another idea that I just couldn’t shake, and in the end, it’s what I’ve decided to go with; the bookend.
 
After all was said and done, and I was coming down the mountain …
 
 
… I knew, finally and for certain, that all was well.
 

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