Archive for the ‘Santa Cruz Mountains Estate’ Category

What’s Up Lunch?: The Take & Bake Pizza Chronicles

February 20, 2012

Greetings all!

Readers of this blog may be familiar with a series of postings we’ve run over the past couple of years; our “What’s Up Lunch?” series, in which we document unique luncheon pairings with our wines. Well, I’m not sure this qualifies as a “unique” pairing, per se, but it certainly occurred at lunch, and it definitely involved our wines. And I’ll argue for the singularity of the event by virtue of the constraint …

Constraint? Of course! We can’t just sit around and eat pizza all day! But what we CAN do, is a taste test with four different Take & Bake pizzas!

So that’s what we did; four pizzas, two wines, two tasters.

The tasters? Myself, and my colleague Sam Howles-Banerji; one time harvest intern cum cellar rat, long-time tasting room staffer, and now, full-time member of the Monte Bello Hospitality Team.

The wines? 2005 Ridge Vineyards Grenache, and 2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs.

And the pizzas?

 
The challenge? Determine which was the best pairing of wine and pizza.
 
 
Round I commences, with the Whole Foods offering; the decision? Grenache by a nose. The thin crust is appealing, but chewier than expected, and while the sauce does a nice reconciliation of sweet and tart, the cheese lacks flavor, and comes off a tad oily accordingly. That said, as far as the pairing goes, the spice of the grenache plays off the oil well, and the sauce’s balance of sweet and tart matches the architecture of the wine quite decently. A good, if not great pairing, with the wine, in the end, just seeming slightly too big for the pizza. Comparatively though, the pizza just swallows the back half of the Lytton’s finish, so, as noted, the Grenache gets the nod with this one.
 
 
Round II commences, with the Uncie Ro’s (Santa Cruz’s own!); the decision? Our Estate Cabernet! I know, I know, that wasn’t supposed to be part of the tasting, but we just KNEW it would be perfect after tasting this pizza. The crust is a lovely, chewy, thin NY style, and while it’s a bit shy on cheese, the herbs (particularly the parsley) are perfect, and they just cry out for cool climate cabernet. Thus, the 2008 Ridge Vineyards Estate Cabernet. That said, still not a perfect pairing. A pretty great one, but not PERFECT.
 
 
Round III commences, with the Annie’s offering. BAM! Unquestionably, this is one of the very best take & bakes we’ve ever had. I was worried at first, because it has a very, shall we say, “puffy” crust, and I usually don’t like a puffy crust. But the voluminous explosion of sauce and cheese on the palate is just exquisite; piquant and sweet, herbal and cheesy, just totally excellent. That said, and sadly, not a great pairing for any of the wines we were tasting. The grenache was the best option of the three, but the two, at best, co-existed; there was no real magic.
 
 
So the final round commenced, with the Vicolo. This is a corn crust offering, so it was kind of odd-man-out in the group, but it tasted quite good. The crust was both sweet and granular, the cheeses were present without being overtly fatty or oily, and the addition of sun-dried tomatoes is genius for adding a bit of tang. And the wines? Not so great a pairing with the Lytton Springs; it certainly gave definition to the palate movement, and showed the wine as a full journey, but it sort of thinned the fruit out a bit, and gave too much attention to the structure. But with the Grenache? KILLER! Totally magical, the total greater than the sum of its parts, the mojo third flavor; perfection as a pairing.
 
So, what’s up, lunch?
 
Best overall Take & Bake Pizza goes to the Annie’s offering, though we would certainly prefer less puff to the crust. Runner-up goes to the Uncie Ro’s, which really was delicious, and we loved both the herbs and the “local” factor, but it was just a tad too shy on cheese to sweep the award.
 
Best overall pairing goes to the 2005 Ridge Vineyards Grenache and the Vicolo Quattro Formaggio; while we liked (but didn’t love) the pizza on its own, the two together just absolutely came alive. Runner-up goes to the Uncie Ro’s with the  Estate Cabernet.
 
What’s up, lunch?

For Those About To Type, We Salute You ! The Final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011 …

December 20, 2011

Anyone who’s read about this tasting series, or perhaps even attended an episode, will know that there is always a theme to each tasting event. This was again the case for what was the final Wine Bloggers Tasting of 2011, held recently here at Monte Bello.

I must say, that as we’ve progressed the series, it has gotten potentially more and more challenging to develop engaging and creative themes. Fortunately, Ridge itself is a unique and surprising enough institution that quite often, the themes essentially present themselves. The theme for 2011: Episode IV, was suggested by the release of a new series of wines from Ridge Vineyards, our Historic Vineyard Series.

Thus, the theme was History, a viticultural going back in time. Each of the Historic Vineyard Series wines is crafted from fruit coming specifically from blocks that conform to the original historic plantings of our mountain’s “Founding Farmer Families,” and as such, each harkens back to a time when the mountain was comparatively raw and uncharted, a time before much of what we now take for granted in the modern world had been invented, a time long before electricity had even come to the mountain.

To set the stage for our oenophilic time travel, I set a price of admission for our guest Wine Bloggers. To participate in the tasting, each would have to commit to typing at least one tasting note on a vintage manual typewriter, four of which I provided from my personal collection, with the oldest dating to 1924. All agreed, and the game was afoot!

Upon arrival, each of our guests was greeted with a glass of the 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay, for my money, one of the greatest Monte Bello Chardonnays Ridge Vineyards has ever produced. This was just a treat to get things off on the right foot, a little treat to whet the collective viticultural whistles.

(As an aside, I should note that the event was not in any way shape or form some sort of No Tech Zone. These ARE wine bloggers after all. So the public access Wi Fi was live, and we had a Twitterfall feed up to chronicle the chatter as it happened in real-time.)

Anyhow, after everyone had settled in, I distributed some information about our Historic Vineyard Series wines, and poured the first offering, the 2009 Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with its cool-climate origins, this 100% solo-varietal Cabernet stuns with its subtlety, elegance, balance, approachability, minerality, and herbaceousness. It shows as proof once again that cool-climate cabs have a unique potential to reflect a truly singular sophistication. I’ve nothing against muscle wines per se, provided they’re built well, but give me a cool-climate cab any day! It’s sort of like the difference between Steven Wright and Sam Kinison. Or Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska” and Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA.” Or the quiet part of “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and the loud bit. Or Mary Oliver and Charles Bukowski. Or “Casablanca” and “The Bourne Identity.” Or Basil Rathbone’s Sherlock Holmes and Robert Downey’s.

Anyhow, from here we moved to the Torre Ranch Merlot, a perfect showcase for the upended paradigm that is a cool-climate mountain property; here, the Cab provides the subtlety, whereas it’s actually the Merlot that brings the structure. In our archetypal Monte Bello assemblage construct, the Merlot provides the beams and girders, the Cab paints the walls in. That said, on its own in solo-varietal fashion, the Merlot is most certainly not without grace; it still manages to be balletic in its power, not unlike a star athlete; a compressed and perfectly calibrated reconciliation of grace and force.

We concluded this portion of the tasting with the Perrone Cabernet Franc. In my estimation, the Cabernet Franc grown on our mountain is of a superior caliber on a shockingly regular basic; but the intensity of its acid profile in particular means its potential role in the assemblages is often constrained. On its own, however, it is what I oft refer to as “an excitement wine.” Excitement wines are those that somehow rise above their impressive component profiles (acid, tannin, fruit, herbs, alcohol, minerality, etc.) and functionally well-executed structures to achieve a mysterious captivatory quality that transcends simple flavor. They leap out of the glass, capture your attention, deploy an indecipherable layer of attraction that, for lack of a better term, is truly exciting. Pure and unadulterated excitement in the glass.

Continuing with our looking back into the past theme, I then introduced the second portion of our tasting, a three-vintage vertical of Library Estate Cabernet; the 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages. As I have recently reviewed these wines on this blog, I’ll opt to let you read from some of our guest’s works; some of which can be found by clicking the following links:

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

 and to see my notes, you can click here (you’ll need to scroll down to just below mid-page):

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/10/28/the-2011-ridge-vineyards-holiday-packs-are-here/

Our tasting closed with another fascinating contribution from the magical vaults of one Allan Bree, who goes back far enough with Ridge to remember calling Paul Draper with a tin can and string.

Kidding! I’m kidding, I’m a kidder, I kid …

In all seriousness, Allan does go back a ways with Ridge Vineyards, which means that any time he brings something special, you can be sure it’s going to be special. Should you wish to do so, you can click the following to read of some past examples of Allan’s generosity:

 http://blog.ridgewine.com/?s=allan+bree

For today’s tasting, he brought something we later determined constituted a full 5% of the world’s available supply. Meaning, Ridge itself only has about a case of this wine left, and Allan had two bottles, one of which he shared with the Wine Bloggers Tastings. It’s about as rare a Ridge wine as can be found, partly due to its bottle age, and primarily because Ridge only ever made it once. One vintage. Only 33 barrels produced. Most of which, as far as we can tell, no longer exists. Unless you have some?

Oh, the wine, of course! A 1994 Monte Rosso Zinfandel! And may I say, it was delicious! Which was particularly impressive, given Paul Draper’s original estimates of its longevity. From the original label text:

These very ripe grapes—like those in the Ridge ’79 and ’80 Glen Ellens from the adjacent Moon Mountain vineyard—were the very first zinfandels of the vintage to be harvested. This old-vine fruit from Monte Rosso’s warm, red-earth slopes received special attention. To maximize intensity, we used three small tanks rather than a single large fermentor. Despite keeping new cooperage to twenty-five percent, spicy oak is a major component, complementing the wine’s rich, black fruit. This big—yet elegant —zinfandel will benefit from a year of bottle age, and be at its best over the next five to eight years. PD (12/95)

Suffice it to say, it was quite a tasting, and in fact it was quite a year of tasting. This is the second year of our Wine Bloggers Tasting series, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with its development and progress.

I’ve gotten to know a fantastic and fascinating cadre of writers and wine lovers, and I’ve tasted an extraordinary roster of wines in truly great company.

I thank all of our guests over this past year for their participation, and I thank Ridge Vineyards for continuing to produce exquisitely crafted and magical wines, for providing support for this series, and for blessing me with the job of writing the Ridge Vineyards blog!

Cheers to all, and thank you for a great 2011’s worth of Wine Bloggers Tastings!

And as a final note of appreciation for our Wine Bloggers, and to that oft-misunderstood subset of the population at large that is the Wine Blogger Community, might I just point out that Wine Bloggers too appreciate the importance of wearing groovy footwear whilst drinking fine wine

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

Soul On Saturday … A Passport To Soul!

November 17, 2011

Sam & Dave

Funky, Funky Monte Bello

Land of 1000 Zinfandels

Agent Double-O-Wine

How Sweet It Is (To Drink Ridge With You)

Get Up (I Feel Like Being A) Wine Machine, Part I

Reach Out (I’ll Be There, With A Glass Of Ridge)

Aretha Franklin

In a marked shift from tradition, we will be playing 5 straight hours of nothing but vintage soul in the Monte Bello Tasting Room  this coming Saturday. So if you like the idea of quaffing our very delicious wines while shakin’ your tail feather to the likes of Wilson Picket, Sam Cooke, Aretha Franklin, Eddie Floyd, Rufus Thomas, The Bar-Kays, James Brown, Albert King, The Four Tops, and more, then you just might want to scoot your hot pants up to Monte Bello this Saturday. We don’t do this very often.

Albert King

I should note as well that this Saturday is a Passport Saturday (the appellation-wide quarterly promotional event put on each year by the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrower’s Association), so you can consider this Saturday as your Passport to Soul. If you want to …

Otis Redding

And, stay tuned for an upcoming announcement regarding the wines we’ll be featuring for Passport!

 
Agent Double-O-Soul, over and out.

 

 

 

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holiday Packs are here!

October 28, 2011

It’s only October, I know, but in order to make certain we assemble the finest selection of wines possible to escort you through your holiday season, we begin the tasting process early, and I am now happy to report that the final collections have been confirmed. We are extremely excited by this year’s offerings, particularly as we’ve included a rather stunning array of library wines in the various packs, and we’re all extremely eager to share with you the results.

In order to kick things off properly, we scheduled an internal library tasting of wines included in the holiday packs, with members of the Ridge team participating from three different locations: our Warehouse in Milpitas (where both the warehouse and customer service groups are based), our Lytton Springs Estate, and here at Monte Bello. Using a web feed, winemakers Paul Draper and Eric Baugher led all three locations through the wines on offer, while yours truly manned the camera, and peppered our hosts with questions.

Paul Draper and myself, talking shop in advance of the tasting ...

(photo by Sonja Seaberg)

I think all concerned came away from the tasting feeling extremely excited by, and energized about, this year’s holiday selections; the wines are in tremendous form, and armed with all the additional insights we gleaned from the opportunity to taste with Paul and Eric, I think everyone is beside themselves with anticipation as regards talking these wines with you. And you, and you, and you …

 
For myself, I humbly offer the following tasting notes (to see more about this year’s holiday offerings, please click here):
 
 
 

2005 Ridge Vineyards Stone Ranch Zinfandel

While planted on Geyserville soil, these vines traditionally produce a lighter, more fruit-forward, more easy-drinking style, and accordingly, the fruit is often held out of the Geyserville assemblage, in favor of a separate bottling, under the Stone Ranch designation. Such was certainly the case in 2005; a notably ripe year.

 A kindred spirit of sorts to the Carmichael — another approachably fruit-driven ATP offering — the Stone Ranch nonetheless shows a slightly higher-tone profile, evidencing a more bramble-driven red-fruit character than the comparatively moodier Carmichael.

 To my palate, the carignane continues to lend great acidity to the overall mouthfeel, while allowing the chalkiness of the minerality pride of place simultaneously. Hints of oak-derived sweet vanillin speckle the early aromatics, while traces of coriander and citrus peel enliven the finish. With half a decade’s worth of bottle age, this wine has settled into a surprisingly (and rewardingly!) complex offering that nonetheless retains its youthful lightness and approachability.

 Should prove to be a great Autumnal offering, perfect with appetizers and first courses at the holiday table.

 2004 Ridge Vineyards Oltranti Zinfandel

 One of only two vintages crafted from the younger zinfandel planting on the legendary Mazzoni Home Ranch, this offering is as unique a wine as any released under the ATP banner. Buoyed by the small introductions of older vine carignane and petite sirah, this has historically been a notably tannin-forward, intensely structured offering. With approximately 5 years of bottle age woven into its fabric, it’s still a big wine; a strutting, cocksure wine with its money where its mouth is; meaning, the aromatics offer the promise, and the body delivers the goods.

Autumnality is front-and-center as regards its “at table” personality; loads of dried fruits on the nose, with shades of mincemeat, figs, and toasted nuts calling up all sorts of holiday reflections. The mouthfeel at point-of-entry is almost impossibly round; a mouthful of a mouthfeel, as it were. Not content to wow you with physical prowess, however, the Oltranti serves up some great tobacco, bramble, and forestation as well; the second and third-tier supporting characteristics give a unique lift to this fleshily omnipresent Atlas. A great offering to meet the middle of your holiday meal; the entrée!

2003 Ridge Vineyards Independence School

A true collector’s item in every sense of the term, this is the first release of what would become our Old School designation, and the only one to actually carry the “Independence School” name. This, as with the Stone Ranch, is ostensibly Geyserville fruit, but as with the Stone Ranch (though for very different reasons!), the blocks that make up this wine are held out of the Geyserville assemblage due to their singular personalities. In this wine’s case, the fruit is held out for a separate small-batch, winery-only offering in acknowledgement of its traditionally riper, sweeter, more fruit-forward character. Accordingly, expect unctuousness in spades, voluptuousness in decadently seasoned excess, and luxuriant fruit at all points across the palate.

While there is little that one could claim as tame about this wine, I am consistently and pleasantly surprised by its balance; this is an athlete of an offering; you experience the grace, and are hard-pressed to remember that it comes via endless hours in the weight room. A great wine with which to close a hearty holiday meal; cheeses, fruits, and chocolates should abound, as friendships are re-solidified, and family bonds affirmed.

“Dusi Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Dusi Ranch Zinfandel, 2006 & 2005

Quite a treat to taste these side-by-side! Benito Dusi’s ranch is such a legendary fixture of the Ridge portfolio, and while our Paso Robles zinfandel is one of our most consistently shaped offerings, it is often via the comparatively more mercurial Dusi Ranch designation that one comes to truly know and love these vines, and this vineyard. Traditionally comprised of blocks held out of the larger Paso Robles assemblage by virtue of their comparatively riper, sweeter profile, the Dusi is actually capable of not only showing unexpectedly complex characteristics, but evidencing authentically enticing seasonal variables as well.

These two vintages are, in many ways, a perfect study in contrast. Conventional wisdom (if anything about Ridge can be said to be conventional!) would certainly propose the Dusi offering as a ripe, warm-climate zinfandel, and the 2006 vintage does not disappoint in this regard. It wears its natural fruit on its shoulder, but also shows itself to have been (as it was) the product of a submerged cap fermentation; there are tannins, there is earth, and there is some darkness under all that concentratedly rich fruit. But fruit is the word, is the word, is the word …

That said, if you expect more of the same when heading into the ’05, be prepared for an adjustment of sorts. Sure, it’s still warm-climate, old-vine zin, and sure there is a lot of fruit on offer, but there is also acidity! Not something one normally expects from this combination of region and varietal. And in fact, there is a whole host of structural components on offer; in addition to acidity, there are some nicely coated and resolving tannins, there is some herbality and woodsiness, and there are some fine layers of fruit as well.

In October of ‘06, Eric Baugher gave a 5 to 6-year projection of longevity for this wine. Were that accurate, we’d be calling this wine to task right now, branding it as being at its peak. But when tasting this wine with Eric and Paul Draper today (October of ’11), I found I was not the only one who thought this wine had years of life still ahead; both Eric and Paul said it was going to “go out”; and go out it will. Certainly drinkable now, but if you want a rarefied library offering to sit on just a bit longer, this might just be your perfect catch.

“Estate Cabernet Vertical” Holiday Pack

 

Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate (now Estate Cabernet), 2005, 2004, and 2003

I admit it. I am spoiled. This should have been one of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life. But I have to confess, I just tasted these wines rather recently, as part of the worldwide #CabernetDay celebration. That said, guess what this was? One of the greatest tasting opportunities of my life! Three truly tremendous vintages, of a truly tremendous wine, tasted in the company of Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and a whole host of my most excellent colleagues; priceless.

It would take pages upon pages to truly navigate the unique history of this designation, and its singular relationship to the Monte Bello, so suffice it to say that one might not be far off the mark in suggesting that, with the 2003 vintage, this designation truly came into its own, emerging out of the shadow of the Monte Bello as its own wine; grown, harvested, and vinted in similar fashion, beneficiary of an equally intense attention to detail, but selected and assembled with an altogether different overarching aesthetic in mind.

Put another way, it’s a hell of a wine, and particularly for the price; meaning, from a price break to quality standpoint, you rarely get this much wine for this little of an investment. And the 2003 is where this really and truly becomes the indisputable case.

All that said, the tasting begins with the 2005. The only vintage of the trio without Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the assemblage, this wine perfectly enacts the growing season that year; preposterously low yields (less than 1 ton an acre) resulting in a deep, dark, concentrated, structure-forward profile. The nose is all chocolate and campfire and s’mores, and the mid-palate is all gluttony and indulgence. That said, it’s still a frighteningly balanced wine; frightening in that it manages to pack all that baroque romanticism and architectural decadence into an almost sexually-charged come-on; you want this wine, because it moves so well, but at the same time, you can’t help but sense the primality lurking just below the surface. One to watch, one to wish for, one to covet.

The 2004 is an altogether different animal, the product of a perversely unusual growing season; one in which the harvesting of Monte Bello (the estate) was essentially bisected; early picking on one side of the October rains, late picking the other. The resulting wine, I will confess, is one of my personal favorites. To borrow a colloquialism, it’s just my kind of funky. It’s a bit rustic, a bit earthy, a bit dirty, a bit bluesy. In short, delicious! The big “B” gets thrown around a lot in wine circles (Bordeaux), much the same way that “Genius” is oft-misused by certain rather purple-y writers in the various arts fields; meaning, if I had a dollar for every tired, derivative, re-hashed, substance-less wine, poem, play, novel, song, album painting, etc. … Anyhow, the point is, that still, to this day, “Bordeaux” is prized as the ultimate comparative; “In a blind tasting, I would have sworn this was a first growth!” And while that’s instructive in certain realms, and nonsensical in others, it serves a purpose here, because this is truly cause for a pause; if your wish is to embrace an American producer who can very successfully and authentically produce wines that are fully in line with all that we hold dear about the legitimately still-great Bordeaux producers, all while doing so in uniquely American fashion, and on top of that, at disarmingly populist price breaks, then please, do yourself a favor, and find a way to drink this wine. It’s just that kind of excellent.

And finally, we return to the 2003, which, as Paul himself noted, is really and truly coming into its own. If you want to seriously wow your holiday table guests, without digging too deep into your cellar, or into your wallet, just serve this out of decanter, and watch the mouths drop. This is a serious, serious wine, and it lacks nothing, and I mean nothing, when compared to bottles of twice the price break, if not more.

 

The Last Chance Monte Bello …

August 30, 2011

It’s her last chance
Her timing’s all wrong
Her last chance
She can’t idle this long
Her last chance
Turn her over and go
Pullin’ out of the last chance texaco
The last chance
–from “The Last Chance Texaco” by Rickie Lee Jones

Don’t YOU idle too long, and don’t let YOUR timing be wrong!

There is a three-vintage vertical of Monte Bello waiting for you just around the next turn, and this is your last chance to pull out and find it!

And this is not just any three-vintage vertical, mind you. This is a three-DECADE, three-vintage vertical!

 This is the 1985 Monte Bello (“…great intensity to its mineral and currant flavors … will age gracefully for years … Wine Spectator, 2001), the 1995 Monte Bello (Top 100 Wines of the Year, Wine & Spirits Magazine), and the 2001 Monte Bello (99 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate)!

And this majestic trio will be prefaced by another three-vintage vertical, the 2004, 2005, and 2006 vintages of our Estate Cabernet!

Have we lost our minds???

No! It’s just #Cabernet Day!

You can read an in-depth blog post about Cabernet Day here, or you can just cut to the quick and get your tickets here.

If you love Cabernet, this is an unprecedented opportunity to celebrate both in virtual solidarity with like-minded believers around the globe, and right here at home, at either of our estates: Lytton Springs or Monte Bello. Both don’t delay, Cabernet Day is this Thursday, and there are only a few tickets left.

Turn her over and go, it’s the last chance Monte Bello!

10 Questions For Paul Draper: Number 6!

August 22, 2011

We begin the second-half of our special ten-question series with Paul Draper today, please enjoy!

(And by the way, thanks to everyone who has been sending in their own questions, we look very forward to presenting a reader-initiated Q & A series soon; so please keep the queries coming!)

6-    Which Ridge wine would you recommend to someone who has never tasted a wine from California?

 If they are experienced in drinking Bordeaux or Chilean Cabernets, I would recommend they try our Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. If they generally like all wines, I would recommend the Geyserville or Lytton Springs Zinfandels.

***Do you have a question for Paul? Let us know! wine@ridgewine.com***

(“10 Questions for Paul Draper” questions composed by Rodrigo Mainardi of Mistral, Brazlian Distributor for Ridge Vineyards)

Paul Draper grew up on an eighty-acre farm in the Chicago suburb of Barrington. After attending the Choate School and receiving a degree in philosophy from Stanford University, he lived for two years in northern Italy. Later he attended the University of Paris and traveled extensively in France, gaining practical experience in traditional winemaking. In the mid-sixties, with a close friend, he set up a small winery in the coast range of Chile and produced several vintages of cabernet sauvignon. He joined Ridge Vineyards in 1969, and presently resides atop Monte Bello Ridge with his wife Maureen and daughter Caitlin. He is known for his crafting of fine cabernets and chardonnays from the Monte Bello estate vineyards, and as a pioneer in the production of long-lived, complex zinfandels.
 

 

 

Three-Vintage Vertical of Ridge Estate Cabernet: The Other Half of #CabernetDay!

August 4, 2011

Have I been remiss? In exalting the wonders of our “Three Decades of Monte Bello” #CabernetDay tasting, did I inadvertently give short shrift to the three-vintage vertical of Estate Cabernet that we’ll also be tasting? Heaven forfend if I have!

This trio of wines comprises three vintages of what is, for my money, one of the absolute best price break-to-quality Cabernet offerings out there, anywhere. And yes, I am biased, but I really believe it! There is a tremendous amount of complexity and character on offer in these wines, and they are consistently made available at what I think are mind-bendingly competitive price breaks.

Don’t believe me? All the more reason to attend our very special #CabernetDay tastings! You might have heard these wines referred to colloquially as “baby Monte Bellos”, and while there is certainly some tangential validity to the comparison, I think you’ll find, should you be able to join us, that these wines speak for themselves, stand up for themselves, and very much demand recognition in their own rights.

For more about our #CabernetDay tastings, please click here, or if you just wish to cut to the chase, you can purchase tickets here.

And should you be interested, here are my most recent tasting notes (i.e. yesterday!) of this remarkable Cabernet vertical:

2006

2006 Ridge Vineyards Estate Cabernet

(Santa Cruz Mountains Estate/Monte Bello Vineyards)

Good rush of opulent fruit on the nose, dominated by sweet red plum, co-mingling with some hints of black cherry skins. Shy trace of classic Monte Bello minty/eucalyptal herbaceousness woven throughout, and a dash of both black and white pepper; very complex aromatics all around … Nice round mouthfeel, with a gentle tannin underbelly supporting some layered baked blackberry and ollalieberry fruits. Tannins are elegant and nicely coated throughout … Acidity manages to be both bright and subtle, and the Petit Verdot brings a lovely floral layer and just a hint of cooler climate rusticity. A very complex, multi-tiered panoply of flavors wrapped into a very approachable, fruit-forward construct. An excellent reconciliation of easy drinkability and complex layering.

2005

2005 Ridge Vineyards Estate Cabernet

(Santa Cruz Mountains Estate/Monte Bello Vineyards)

Good, strong amount of fruit on the nose, in congress with a dark and decadent low-tone layer, and a touch of forestation. Big, rich front palate at point-of-entry, with a strong presence from the tannin architecture, particularly in the lip-to-tooth realm. Mid-palate shows some very pleasing vanilla notes emerging, discreetly sweetening up the combination of umami savoriness and tart red fruit that continues to expand as the wine moves towards the finish. The finish itself is intensely structured; tannin forward and muscular. This is a wine that likes a lot of air at this point in its development; double-decanting and hearty swirling are highly recommended! As the wine opens, the wine shows more and more of its fruit-driven opulence, and this, combined with a good amount of structure, makes for a rich and full-bodied mountain offering.

2004

2004 Ridge Vineyards Estate Cabernet

(Santa Cruz Mountains Estate/Monte Bello Vineyards)

An almost impossibly complex nose, with all the layers one wants from a cool-climate, mountain Cabernet-based blend; bright red fruit and dark black fruit, herbaceous fresh herbs and funkier dried herbs, sweet vanilla oak notes, and tart, piquant grapeskin notes … Every varietal is already doing its full dance by first sip; rich berry fruit from the cab, plushness and structure from the merlot, lavender and lilac florality from the Petit Verdot, and acidity and herbaceousness from the Cab Franc; just exquisite. The mid-palate gets good and country funky, and shows some nice, chalky tannins … The finish is long and vibrant, with a lot of acidity dancing over every portion of every taste sensor; not overtly structured, but certainly elegant and complex. Certainly rustic, and less fruit-centric, but rewardingly rich all the same.

Unbelievable “Three Decades of Monte Bello” tasting! Open to you!

August 1, 2011

It’s exactly one month until Cabernet Day. That is to say, #CabernetDay!

#CabernetDay!

The second annual.

It’s an international phenomenon, a worldwide celebration of all things Cabernet, taking place across all social media platforms.

In Bangladesh? Join in! Buenos Aires? Can’t wait to chat! Baltimore? See you on Facebook! Blaenau Ffestiniog? I’ll be looking for your tweets!

Ridge Vineyards is ALL IN on this one, boyos and birds!

Ever heard of a lil’ ol’ wine called Monte Bello? You can bet we’ll be doing #CabernetDay. And dig how we’ll be doing it …

On September 1st, at both of our estate locations (Lytton Springs and Monte Bello) we’ll be offering special by-appointment seated tastings of not only a three-vintage vertical of our Estate Cabernet (2004, 2005, & 2006), but a THREE-DECADE VERTICAL OF MONTE BELLO! And not just any three-decade vertical, mind you. We’ll be tasting the 1985 Monte Bello, the 1995 Monte Bello, and …. drum roll … the 2001 Monte Bello! Yup, the vintage that just got a 99 POINT RATING FROM ROBERT PARKER!

Listen, I’m biased, and I admit it. There is a reason I work for Ridge Vineyards. But I’m telling you, with total objectivity front and center, you’re simply out of your mind if you miss this. This is one of those rare tasting opportunities that just don’t come along that often, and I really, really, really hope that you can come. 

Now, of course I won’t really think you’re insane if you miss this. I just really  think you should come taste these wines with us. I really do.

So, on to the important part. To reserve your place at the tasting table, just click here.

There, you’re done.

In fact, you’re already here. It’s already the 1st. You’re already seated at the table. Your host is pouring the first wine into your glass. Angels are out in broad daylight, plucking soothing melodies on harps of gold outside the window. The sun’s soft finger is lightly brushing the back of your neck. All over the world, people are laying down their guns. The markets are surging. The wind whispers your name, and you say “Yes, it is I.” Somewhere a puppy is born.

If the puppy and the angels and the 99-point rating didn’t get you, here is a look at the wines we’ll be offering:

1985 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Excellent umami aromatics! Plus, lovely wafts of cedar and pipe tobacco, with a hint of boysenberries. Meticulously elegant point-of-entry, laying soft on the tip of the tongue and skipping into the cheeks with some nice acidity and a touch of sweetly, modestly covered tannin. Good dark fruit mid-palate, with some rusticity and earth rumbling through. Not particularly weighty; an easy sipper. The finish shows a bit of the age, but no degradation, just nice, mature, pure and quality Cabernet fruit. As gentle as it gets, and fascinating accordingly. 

1995 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Rich, concentrated, compact and compressed nose, a muscular jolt of big red fruit, cassis, anise, fig, and leather. Huge at the front, taking up every available space at point-of-entry. Unctuous and lush, a whole lot of wine on offer. Mid-palate opens up and shows some cherry and mixed red berries, and spreads a plush quilt of viscosity seamed with fine-grained tannins and a lingering hint of eucalyptal herbaceousness. The finish is intensely structured; amazing for a wine that’s been in bottle nearly 15 years. Almost impossibly youthful still, but with a load of meat on the bone.

2001 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Good lord, what a lot of wine! This is an intense, intense vintage; the nose is positively loaded! Ripe, rich, sweet, cola and licorice and blackberry pie! The mouthfeel is just about as viscous as the aromatics would lead you to believe, with a luxuriant point-of-entry and a multi-tiered middle that, despite all the decadence, ripeness, and viscosity, still manages to showcase the herbs, spice, and forestation of a classic Monte Bello. The finish is strong on blue fruit and nice dusky tannins, but overall, the wine is still almost mind-bendingly young. Perfect proof that big doesn’t mean sabotaging balance; this is every bit as graceful as, say, the 1985 described above, but this is a bigger, wilder rendition.

If you’d like to see Eric Baugher’s recent tasting notes on this vintage (Eric is our VP of winemaking here at Monte Bello), well, good luck!

The important things to note in there are words like “Fresh, alive, layered, complex,” and “youthful/delicious,” and “young and capable +15-20 more years.”

Anyhow, the amazing thing about the whole #CabernetDay phenomenon is that it really and truly does play out as envisioned; we participated last year, and it was truly remarkable. People from all over the world, literally, tasting their favorite Cabernets at the same time, sharing their thoughts on-line, engaging in dialogue, talking. This is what wine does. It makes you talk. With other people. About pleasant things. Like wine.

Seriously, every liquid indulgence has its effect; beer makes you sleepy and want to play pinball. Tequila makes you quiet and want to hit people with pool cues. Vodka makes you dance way too much, and not well, and then completely forget that you danced way too much, and not well. Martinis make you have more martinis, taking you swiftly  from sophisticated to unconscious. Absinthe makes you see dead people. But wine? Ah, wine. Wine makes you nice. And comfortable. Wine makes you feel like cooking, and sharing your cooking with other people. Wine makes you not only tell good stories, but listen to them as well. No one ever opened a newspaper and read of a murder-suicide committed after drinking a bottle of single-vineyard Cabernet. No, wine makes you congenial, and poetic. Wine makes you like music, and bread. Wine makes people love people.

This is what happens on #CabernetDay. People love people.

And now, with our new and very special #CabernetDay tastings, you can love Cabernet and people both, and you can do so both virtually, and in proximity.

Please consider yourselves invited.

A Chardonnay Vertical? Oh, no you didn’t! Oh, yes I did!!!

June 27, 2011

(spoiler alert: this post is going to end with an opportunity to taste for yourself the chardonnay vertical i’m about to wax poetic on …)

Chardonnay and Vertical. Not sure you see those two words together that often. Cabernet & Vertical, sure. Bordeaux & Vertical, sure. Ridge & Vertical even, sure again. But Chardonnay & Vertical? Maybe not so much.

But why not?

I had a conversation just the other day with Fred Swan (he of NorCalWine.com fame), who wrote me to ask if a chardonnay I’d recently had him taste had been decanted. Fantastic! That’s another two words you don’t hear too often in the same sentence: Chardonnay & Decant. But because Fred is the real deal, he knows that Chardonnays often should be decanted. Why? Same reason why a vertical. Because if it’s a good, well-made, complex wine that is going to grow, develop, and mature over time, than a) it’s likely to benefit from decanting when it’s young, and b) it’s going to be both delicious and educational to taste it in a vertical.

So, absolutely a chardonnay vertical! And not just any chardonnay vertical! Dig this:

2003 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Chardonnay

2004 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Chardonnay

2005 Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay (#2, Wine Spectator Top 100)

2006 Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay

And how does one get to experience this exalted tasting?

To answer that question, I’ll have to take you all the way back to February 6, 2009. Do you remember that day? It was the morning after we learned that Olympian Michael Phelps had been caught smoking marijuana. Dublin’s airport had just been closed because of snow. We were on the verge of confirming A-Rod’s steroid use. It was heady times, to say the least. Up here on the mountain, we were en route to launching a legendary event, but on that cold, wet day, things weren’t looking too auspicious. It was to be our very first First Friday event; something we’d never, ever done before. But things didn’t look good. It wasn’t just raining. It was DUMPING! It was a monsoon! A maelstrom! All the wine we’d opened, all the bread we’d sliced, all the cheese we’d readied, it was all to be for naught. Surely no one would come.

But from out of the whipping shrouds of black and gray, out of the spastic tendrils of fog and mist, they came. Dank, damp, huddled figures; bemused and soaking, but present. All told, some 40+ folks made it up Monte Bello Road on that nasty February evening, and accordingly a legend was born; the sweet wine song of First Friday. If you’ve not been, a rite of passage awaits, an indoctrination, an awakening.

You just have to be a member. Or a friend of a member. And you just have to RSVP, so we can make sure we’ve got enough delicious wine, bread, cheese, tapenade, hummus, charcuterie, etc., to keep you and your palate happy.

So, the point of all this gibberishing is this; the July First Friday event is unique. Because it’s too hot to send member shipments out, we accordingly don’t schedule a July release at all; meaning, there is actually no pick-up opportunity at the event in question.

But we want you to come anyway!

Come together. Right now.

So what do we do? Well, every year, for the July FF edition, we try and come up with something singularistically quadruple-groovy to entice your participatory attendance.

Thus, the Chardonnay Vertical …

Your mama’s alright, your daddy’s alright, it just seems a little bit weird. Surrender.

Full disclosure, there is not much of any of these wines left, and the inventory train is already running light on freight …

You been a good ol’ wagon, daddy, but you done broke down.

Meaning, this is your chance!

You’re going off the rails on a crazy train.

Come join us. Be a member. Become a member. Befriend a member. Do whatever it takes. But join us.

My notes:

2003 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Chardonnay

Comprised of the first 17 barrels to go out under the Monte Bello designation since the 2000 vintage, the 2003 was a welcome addition to the portfolio upon arrival. With well over 5 years of bottle age now upon it, the color has deepened to an intensely concentrated gold. The aromatics percolate with weighty notes of lychee, pineapple, beurre blanc and apricot, wrapped in a swaddle of sweet summer corn and warm winter caramel. The wine still retains much of its mountain acidity, though the viscosity has developed some heft. The movement across the palate has admittedly simplified somewhat; in that it doesn’t carom around betwixt the various sensors the way it might have done so in its youth, but this is more than made up for by the dignified compression of all the multi-tiered complexities.

2004 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Chardonnay

Lighter in hue than its predecessor, and possessing a comparatively lighter, more delicately playful mouthfeel, this is an exquisitely fruit, mineral, and acidity-driven wine; archetypally mountainous in character, quintessentially cool-climate in profile. Apricot dominates the aromatics, with hints of fig, quince, and especially poached pear chiming in. The acidity is concentrated in comparatively narrower fashion than the ’03, less in the cheeks and more on the tongue, but has a lengthier finish that showcases a greater degree of minerality. Side-by-side, these two offerings afford the taster a textbook case study of vintage variation; both are well put together, both are complex, rich, and flavorful, but each has very different personalities that will play differently for different palates.

2005 Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay

Oddly enough, despite all the critical hype that has surrounded this wine in recent years (#2 on Wine Spectator’s year-end Top 100 list!) it’s not an offering I’ve tasted with much regularity, so I was quite pleased by this opportunity looming on my horizon. In the glass, the wine displays an intensely golden color, and its legs evidence a staunch viscosity. The aromatics put forth a quite singular intersection of nothing so much as cantaloupe and peanut brittle, hammocked by a sort of crèche of poached tropical fruit, mango especially. Quite fascinating, and truly unique. The flavor profile spreads wide across the palate immediately upon entry, with little tip-of-the-tongue action but lots of cheek activity; not a tremendous outlay of acidity, but some good and fleshy fruit, and a pleasingly mitigated sweet oak dose. Mid-palate is dominated by opulent apricot characteristics, which round out into a sort of pastry effect in the finish; brioche-y yeasts, and a rich and sweet apricot spread. A truly singular wine.

2006 Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay

Appropriately paler in the glass that the rest of the ensemble above, the hues are positively aureate; splendidly vibrant, and bright with dancing flaxen highlights. High-toned on the nose, citrus notes are clearly present; a sort of lime-ade summer freshness skipping about in the grass. A somewhat unexpectedly weightier mouthfeel perhaps suggests (based on how the more mature offerings above are showing) a wine in transition, making its move from a more youthfully crisp, acidity & mineral driven offering towards a wine of greater gravitas, depth, and heft. In its current form, an almost dangerously approachable wine; soft, inviting, sensuous, and even a tad deceptive; like being drawn into the aural beauty of a soft and gentle song, seemingly lullaby-esque in its simplicity, only to realize later the words tell of sacrifices, dangers and redemptions of the most desperate sort. The finish is still coming together, and while the complexities are evident as regards the layers of fruit, spice, yeast, acid, and viscosity, the wine still seems slightly, adolescently discordant. Abundantly promising, but perhaps another year away from full maturation. That said, I personally would drink it now; it’s delicious.

Would you be mine? Could you be mine? Won’t you be my neighbor?

 

July First Friday. Dig.


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