Archive for the ‘Geyserville’ Category

ZAP!

January 27, 2012

That’s right folks, ZAP! Not Shazam, not Wonder Twin Powers Activate (form of an Ah So, shape of a Zinfandel bottle!), but ZAP!

Not familiar? ‘Tis an acronymn, and it stands for Zinfandel Advocates & Producers. From their Mission Statement:

ZAP and its members revel in Zinfandel’s mysterious history and its evolving story fuels the embers of discovery, entrepreneurship and agriculture that are truly American. ZAP is the only organization that has established and provided funding for education and research to study the history, genetics and propagation of a wine varietal to ensure its future. ZAP and its members not only enjoy growing and drinking Zinfandel, but they also value its character and its heritage.

Meaning, in short, these folks LOVE Zinfandel.

Chances are, if you’re reading this blog, you’re probably already aware of ZAP, and quite possibly, you’ve actually attended their legendary Zinfandel Festival.

We’re huge supporters, and we participate every year. The highlight of the lovefest is of course the Grand Tasting. This is essentially Tantric Oenophilia.

We’re believers, and accordingly, we like to bring a really special roster of wines every year to share at the Grand Tasting. This year is no different. Dig the list:

1. 2009 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel –

2. 2009 Lytton Estate Zinfandel –

3. 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel –

4. 2010 East Bench Zinfandel –

5. 2010 Geyserville – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

6. 2010 Lytton Springs – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

7. 2010 Lytton Estate Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

8. 2010 Carmichael Ranch Zinfandel – (barrel samples, not yet released!)

As is hopefully evident, we like to put on a show. Come see us. We’ve got lovely wine to pour for you.

“Holy Ah So Wineman, it’s Zinfandel!”

 

The Old School Is New Again …

January 26, 2012

You know it’s coming, yet somehow you won’t admit it to yourself. It’s inevitable, of course, but it’s impossible survive the days if you’re in conscious embracement of the facts. Somehow, we have to psychically suspend our realities in order to keep on keepin’ on. But all things must pass.

The news came yesterday. They’d pulled it.

The 2007 Ridge Vineyards Old School was removed from the website. It was over.

Fortunately, the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School ain’t too far down the road!

I’ll be sure to let you know when it’s released, but in the meantime, here are some tasting notes, just to keep you going through these tough times …

 

2009 Ridge Vineyards Old School

As you may or may not know, the Old School designation is actually part of our Geyserville estate, but as it’s a group of vines that traditionally provide fruit that ripens to a greater degree of intensity, the juice is traditionally bottled separately in small amounts under the Old School name, and released as a special winery-only offering.

Stylistically, because of the selection criteria, the Old School favors a flavor profile that can run the gamut from sweet in character (a ripe quality that presents the illusion of sweetness without any actual real and significant amount of residual sugar) to actual sweetness (featuring actual residual sugar).

The 2009 is definitely of the former ilk; while the wine is certainly rich and intensely flavored and fruit-driven, a combination of notable water-stress and early ripening during the growing season, and an aggressive and disciplined selection process at the winery (made possible courtesy of a new receiving and sorting system), have made for a wine of surprising integrity and balance.

In addition to the voluptuousness of the fruit and the generosity of the bouquet, there are strong hints of that classic Geyserville spiciness that creep into the flavor profile at just the right moments. These notes primarily come courtesy of the vineyard-blend model deployed for the assemblage of this wine; the zinfandel (at 78%) is structurally rounded out and enhanced by the inclusion of carignane and petit sirah, two classic “mixed blacks” that also form the architectural backbone of the Geyserville.  

The 2007 Old School was one of our top-selling winery-only wines last year, and while it was a sweeter, riper rendition than the 2009, I think the ’09 is poised to not only keep the ’07 fans very happy, but also accrue a whole new set of believers as well. It’s got the fruit for the ’07 set, but it’s also got the complexity, structure, and spice that should win over some converts who may not normally find themselves on the ripe side of life.

If I may say so, it’s a perfect February wine; it’s got Valentine’s Day written all over it …

Things I’m Thankful For …

November 23, 2011

This is the third year in a row I’ve had the opportunity to write and present a “Things I’m Thankful For” post on this blog. Each year, on November 23rd, I have sat down in front of the typer and tried to find a way to express my gratitude for all I’m surrounded by, the blessings life has bestowed, the magic of it all. It’s impossible, but I’ve tried. And I’m going to do so again. It’s November 23rd, and this is what I’m thankful for (please note, there is likely to be some overlap with previous renditions!):

My missus, who did not so much save my life, as reinvent it for the drastic better. Who teaches me, everyday, why love exists. Who is perfect. She is who I was born to fall in love with. I am so thankful that she found me, and I her.

My daughter, who is proof that miracles do happen. The most delightful creature I’ve even known, my favorite person in the world. Who invents for me, every day, new ways to cry with happiness.

The chance to write this blog, because it means I get to write posts like this one.

The iPhone that Ridge gave me. Because while I am not, in any way shape or form, a tech evangelical, I do have to admit that Apple did a really, really good job with the iPhone.

Antonio Galloni. Because he gets Ridge, and he gets Paul Draper. Because he wrote, “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” Because this is true.

Grandparents, especially my daughter’s. Because this bond, this connection, this grandparent-grandchild relationship, is a friendship like no other, and a delight to watch in action. Because grandparents suffer from a most delightful strain of insanity.

Verizon’s cell phone service, circa 2008. For giving me a good connection when interviewing with Nicole Buttitta (VP of HR at Ridge) for the first time, from a truck stop in Wyoming.

Really awful looking old corks, in the necks of really old and awful looking bottle-necks, that somehow still protect really, really, really amazing mature wines. Lead-shrouded, moldy, juice-stained, and crumbling, but still doing their jobs to perfection.

Amy Monroe, Antonio Favela, Barry Campbell, Howard Hickok, Jane Occhialini, Jenny Merit, Karen Cai, Kim Korupp, Michael Riese, Nancy Tarng, Peter Yaninek, Sam Howles-Banerji, Samantha McMillan, Sonja Seaberg, Tara Einis, and Zani Nesvacil. Who have taught me that hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team” have within them the gold of truth, because I am of little to no worth whatsoever without the blessing of these fine people by my side. You know them as the Monte Bello Tasting Room team. I am proud to know them as inspirations; and more than that, friends.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and Salt & Vinegar crisps.

Wine & Food pairing; specifically, Champys and other food besides Salt & Vinegar crisps.

The Owle Bubo.

Jazz Winemaking, as performed by Paul Draper.

Guests who do all the right things in the tasting room.

The 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay.

Drinking 2008 Monte Bello Chardonnay in the fog while watching rabbits.

The Monte Bello Collector Component Tasting, which is one of the coolest tasting opportunities I’ve ever experienced.

The Vegetarian Lasagna from Bash Catering. To Chef Jaci Rossi and the Bash Catering team, a hearty congratulations; it’s very, very hard to make truly outstanding lasagna!

The 1995 Monte Bello, for so pleasantly surprising me by quite unexpectedly transitioning from one of the tightest, most angular, most intensely structured Monte Bellos ever, to this very poised, aromatic, beautific Monte Bello that I am looking at right now, feeling very, very thirsty.

People who don’t chew gum.

Really good wine bloggers.

People who believe me when I tell them Jazz, Haiku, and Winemaking are intimately related.

People who write me e-mails about all the amazing ways our wines have been a part of their stories: births, deaths, weddings, anniversaries, reunions, etc. These e-mails remind me that what we do really is something special; we produce that which ritualizes that which you will remember forever.

Wine Berzerkers. Which is pretty self-explanatory.

Pizza.

Three-day old Geyserville out of a flat-bottom glass, with pizza. Mushroom and Olive pizza. And Geyserville.

Our vineyard and winery teams. Watching them during the 2011 Harvest reminded me all over again about what Sam Howles-Banerji refers to as their “awesomeness.”

That Kyle Theriot and Will Thomas have joined the vineyard teams.

Lytton Springs. The place, the people, the wine.

People who understand it’s important to wear cool shoes when tasting wine.

Drinking the new 2008 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel (which, in my estimation, is the most delicious vintage since the ’04) while wearing ankle boots.

Parents who understand how to go wine tasting with their children.

The way a properly set tasting looks before anyone has arrived. The shimmering glasses, the ordered plates, the small hills of freshly sliced bread, the cool perfection of the cheeses, the crisp diamond sparkle of the water in the glasses, the wine bottles standing at attention, awaiting their deployment …

My almost-three-year-old-daughter’s hysterical one word wine reviews …

My wife’s preposterously expensive taste in wines, and that fact that two-day-old Ridge wine still consistently appeases her …

My boss, Ryan Moore, who does not regurgitate hackneyed corporate aphorisms like “”I’ve always found that the speed of the boss is the speed of the team.” Who does occasionally deploy tidbits of corporate-speak, but always with a twinkle in his eye and a twist at the corner of his lips. Who consistently forces me to come up with new and ever-more hyperbolized ways of explaining just how great I’m doing. Like stupendaliscious, or outer-galaxial.

That my co-workers keep having cool babies.

Haig’s. The greatest hummus in the world. Perfection in pairing with our chardonnays. When experiencing a line-up of excellently selected and staged food & wine pairing selections, one might be tempted to deploy a hackneyed aphorism like “No member of a crew is praised for the rugged individuality of his rowing.” Except that when Haig’s is involved, one must conclude that the rugged individuality of the rowing is indeed deeply praise-worthy.

People who don’t wear cologne or perfume.

Carignane. Especially the John Olney kind.

The 2011 Ridge Vineyards Holilday Packs. Especially the Estate Cabernet vertical, for being so good. And, oddly enough, especially the Dusi vertical, which has suprised me immensely by being truly delicious. Not because they’re not good wines; they are. But because I personally like them so much. Because I am not normally a drinker of this style. But these are really, really, really good.

The fact that my post on this blog with the somewhat laughably lunatic title of  ”Zoot! And Poetry, And Wine, And Jazz, And Steve Martin, And The Muppets, And Jack Kerouac!” remains one of the Top 5 most viewed posts of all time.

Honest people. People who say true things. Like, “Champys should only be drunk from Coupe glasses.”

People who drink Champys from Coupe glasses. Because these are people who obviously have perfect aesthetic taste. And are accordingly inevitably the sorts of people who will also appreciate the opportunity that our new Historic Vineyard Series release represents. People who drink solo-varietal Cabernet Franc. And Champys. From Coupe glasses.

People who, like my father, fell in love all over again with Merlot after seeing Sideways. People who, like my father, have refused to buy Pinot Noir ever since, even though it’s kind of silly, and certainly self-defeating. People who, like my father, deserve  admiration for having principles like this. People who, like my father, remind me of aphorisms that are not all hackneyed, like this relevant one from Mark Twain: “Principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.”

That we are fortunate to oft be well-fed.

People who remember that not everyone in the world is well-fed; that in fact, far too many in the world have never, ever experienced being well-fed. And accordingly, I am thankful for people who not only remember this, but work to correct it. Or at minimum, at least walk the world with appreciation, as opposed to arrogance.

Humble winemakers like Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and John Olney. Who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t.

Humble assistant winemakers like Shun Ishikubo and Muiris Griffin, who are good enough to be arrogant, but aren’t. Who are also good enough to be head winemakers, but choose instead to be part of something beautiful.

People who don’t wear skinny jeans.

People who understand that wearing skinny jeans while drinking good wine makes puppies cry.

People who listen to wine podcasts. Because that is serious dedication.

People who know that there are far better things to pair with red wine than chocolate.

People who pair sautéed mushrooms and garlic with red wine.

People who know you can pair red wine with Indian food.

People who understand that, despite the schtick, ZZ Top is actually a really good band.

People who know that Motorhead has their own wine now, and still don’t drink it, even though they really like Motorhead.

That Rex Stout’s immortal literary creation, the detective Nero Wolfe, insists on the use of Tarragon Wine Vinegar in his kitchen instead of sherry.

Good Poets. Because in this day and age of shallow superficiality, cultural devaluation, and emotional disconnect; in this age where protective irony and deliberate obfuscation rule the emotional day, we desperately need people who are still trying to connect our heads to our hearts for us.

People who understand what wine and poetry have to do with one another.

Really, really ridiculously hyperbolized wine tasting notes.

All wine writers who have not used the word “millenial” in the past year, if there are any.

Cecilia Aguilar, Chris Seguin, and Mary Devine; the dictionary definitions of Customer Service. And really nice people on top of that.

Cellos.

David Gates.

Coated tannins.

People who use terms like “coated tannins” in their tasting notes.

That I was invited to attend the Monte Bello Assemblage tasting, the greatest wine experience of my life.

Cellar Tracker, and the admirably obsessed people who use it.

Zen.

That Elliot Nett and Jason Shelton are now esteemed full-time members of the Lytton Springs hospitality team.

People who drink wine both in formal wear, and naked.

Old men who keep their belts below their bellies, as opposed to above.

Whoever first described my approach to clothing as “hobo chic,” because it’s given me a way to explain away comments about my clothing.

Ties with subtle wine stains.

Wine stains that look like the profiles of famous classical composers.

Tasting Rooms that do not play baroque classical music or Santana.

People who are willing to let themselves love, because this is the bravest thing of all.

Having someone to love.

Having something to love.

People who, when asked “Don’t you want something to love?,” answer “Yes.”

That I have had the chance to love almost every single vintage of Monte Bello going all the way back to 1964.

The things people say to one another while drinking wine, like, “You know, socks are a really great idea,” or “Pass me another crostini,” or “Ayn Rand was wrong,” or “Has it ever occurred to you that some of our best memories involve autumn?” or “Wow, that is an amazing Syrah,” or “I love you too.”

And so many other things also, like Bud Powell, and Laura Chenel’s Melodie, and solid-color carpets and the people who love them, and co-fermenting Viognier with Syrah, and the Haiku of Issa, and Ah So Cork Pullers and the people who use them, and pacifists, and the Optima font, and typewriters from before 1960, and books, and wearing PF Flyers and a suit, and anyone who doesn’t have a mirror in their bag, and really weird and cool wine stores, and France, and fractured limestone, and grape sorting tables, and people who don’t iron their jeans, and very worn-in bandanas, and firefighters, and people who really aggressively swish while wine tasting, and the fact that spittoons are used by both oenophiles and cowboys, and romance, and candles that don’t have scents, and owls, and wine bars that don’t play house music, and restaurants that always bring out the vintage that’s on the menu, and Thai restaurants who understand that if you can’t make green papaya salad properly you shouldn’t be a Thai restaurant, and Italian restaurants who understand the same thing about gnocchi, and people who know first-hand that thirty-year-old cab goes really well with japanese-style barbecued okra, and friends of any kind, and people who don’t call me Chris after I’ve introduced myself as Christopher, and the movie Casablanca, and Ah So Cork Pullers and those that have them, and Watsonville Sourdough, and the days when one doesn’t have to cut one’s toenails, and dew, and that lunatic fringe cadre of loyalists who re-wrote the zinfandel rules, and sweet potatoes, and the taste of a wine spill being licked off the stomach of a lover, and December, and people with awful handwriting, and the paintings of Pissarro, and college radio, and really fine wine.

And most of all, I am thankful to Ridge Vineyards. By your dedication to me, and mine to yours, my family is happy, healthy and safe, and my heart is, accordingly, intact. Thank you.

And to you all, may all the best of everything be yours, and may you always have cause to be thankful.

To share a glass of wine is to share the experience of love. May you all be, feel, and share true love this holiday season.

To all at Ridge, please know I am so thankful for you.

And to every person, place or thing I have neglected to mention in this post, please know I am praying for ten thousand more years of writing “Things I Am Thankful For” posts, so that at some point, I might thank everything.

The Old Patch … (#Harvest2011)

October 3, 2011

To be engaged in the wine production endeavour is to live in many eras; to travel time with impunity, to traverse the Vonnegutian Timequake spectrum with full awareness of all that history has to, and will, offer.

Viticulturist Will Thomas is one such traveler of time. Before the first crowing glory of morning light, his big black boots are already walking; walking through the ghosts of another century; gnarled Hobbity figures in the mist, in perennial enactment of plantings past.

He’s in The Old Patch. It’s a vineyard parcel like no other, a quiet, noble portion of the Geyserville Estate, upon which are planted vines that date to 1885 …

Antonín Dvořák was actively composing then, as were Jean Sibelius, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, and more. It was the year Huckleberry Finn was published. Vincent Van Gogh was painting Amsterdam scenes. And The Old Patch was entering the ground.

This is where Will and the vineyard crews are working; half in history, half in today’s damp morning …

In less than a few hours, Will will have left the vineyards for the winery, calling ahead to let them know what to expect of the 2011 Old Patch …

It’s extraordinary fruit, and you may be so lucky as to taste it in … 2013. For this is where Will, and all the production team, are now; their heads have left 1885 far behind, and they are timequaking now into the future. What will 2013 hold? Where will you be? With whom might you be drinking wine?

You may not be thinking about your future yet, but they are.

To be engaged in the wine production endeavour is to live in many eras; to travel time with impunity, to traverse the Vonnegutian Timequake spectrum with full awareness of all that history has to, and will, offer.

What’s Up Lunch? Edition II: The Pizza Files

September 28, 2011

Pizza and Wine? Yeah, I know, not exactly “interesting” or ”unorthodox.” (To see the manifesto for this tasting series, you can click here). But this wasn’t just any pizza!

First off, it was topped with spinach, a somewhat notorious pairing option due to its intense green-ness and astringency. Add a garden-lode’s worth of large chunks of chopped garlic, and you’re in interesting and potentially challenging territory. But that wasn’t all!

Just to make things even more fun, this was no ordinary crust; it was a corn crust! A uniquely provocative pairing test because of both its sweetness, and its comparative granularity.

So it was game on, needless to say …

And so I started with my two wines: Lytton Springs, and Monte Bello. Which, at face value, might seem like an unfair pairing, but more closely inspected, everything is possibly not what it seems, depending on your personal rendition of conventional wisdom. For example:

If you come from the ”Duh, Monte Bello is, like, world-famous, and totally expensive” side of the tracks, than obviously this would seem an unfair set-up; pitting a $35 zinfandel against a $145 legendary bordeaux-blend. But on the other hand, if you’re in the “Duh, pizza and wine is, like, Bert and Ernie, Joanie and Chachie, peanut butter and chocolate (you got your chocolate in my peanut butter!!!)” camp, then this would seem an equally unfair set-up; no way a cab blend is going to best zinfandel when it comes to pizza pairing!

The point being, is that I truly had no idea what would pair best …

And guess what? Neither of them did! I mean, neither was a bad pairing, but solutions to the particular challenges of this particular pizza proved elusive for both wines, so I had to — reluctantly, of course! — pull in a third wine …

Yes, it was Enter The Geyserville time, and I am happy to report that the pairing was perfect! The intense secondary and tertiary herb & spice layers in the Geyserville were a perfect match for the spinach and garlic, and the comparatively leaner, more acidity-driven backbone took on the sweetness of the masa in fine form, while the luxuriant fruit of the 2009 zinfandel harvest wrapped itself around the crust’s granularity in most reassuring fashion.

Success!

Stay tuned for another episode of “What’s Up, Lunch?”!

10 Questions For Paul Draper: Number 6!

August 22, 2011

We begin the second-half of our special ten-question series with Paul Draper today, please enjoy!

(And by the way, thanks to everyone who has been sending in their own questions, we look very forward to presenting a reader-initiated Q & A series soon; so please keep the queries coming!)

6-    Which Ridge wine would you recommend to someone who has never tasted a wine from California?

 If they are experienced in drinking Bordeaux or Chilean Cabernets, I would recommend they try our Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. If they generally like all wines, I would recommend the Geyserville or Lytton Springs Zinfandels.

***Do you have a question for Paul? Let us know! wine@ridgewine.com***

(“10 Questions for Paul Draper” questions composed by Rodrigo Mainardi of Mistral, Brazlian Distributor for Ridge Vineyards)

Paul Draper grew up on an eighty-acre farm in the Chicago suburb of Barrington. After attending the Choate School and receiving a degree in philosophy from Stanford University, he lived for two years in northern Italy. Later he attended the University of Paris and traveled extensively in France, gaining practical experience in traditional winemaking. In the mid-sixties, with a close friend, he set up a small winery in the coast range of Chile and produced several vintages of cabernet sauvignon. He joined Ridge Vineyards in 1969, and presently resides atop Monte Bello Ridge with his wife Maureen and daughter Caitlin. He is known for his crafting of fine cabernets and chardonnays from the Monte Bello estate vineyards, and as a pioneer in the production of long-lived, complex zinfandels.
 

 

 

10 Questions with Paul Draper: #5!

August 19, 2011

The question seems almost inevitable, and today Paul addresses it; the question of alcohol levels in zinfandel. Enjoy Q & A # 5 in our special ten-question series with Paul Draper!

5-    Your Zinfandel based wines such as Geyserville and Lytton Springs have low alcohol levels as compared to other wines made with Zinfandel. Why is it so and how can they age so gracefully for so many years?

 Zinfandel must be grown in warmer climates like Napa, Sonoma or Paso Robles to develop the fruit flavors that give it its character.  As with the over-ripe Cabernets of Napa today, Zinfandel only needs to be fully ripe, not over-ripe, to produce the most complex, age-worthy wines.  It does ripen quickly if days of very warm temperatures come during harvest; however, if you are sampling carefully and are determined not to make over-ripe wines, that can usually be avoided.  We have worked with over fifty old-vine Zinfandel vineyards over the last forty years.  The Geyserville we first made in 1966 and it has proven to be one of the most consistently fine wines. Likewise we first made the Lytton Springs in 1972 and it has rivaled the Geyserville in its consistency of quality and ageability. We took over the Geyserville vineyard in 1990 and purchased Lytton Springs in 1991 because of the quality of those terroirs.  All but a few of the others were dropped after a year or after ten years.  These wines come from particularly great sites.

***Do you have a question for Paul? Let us know! wine@ridgewine.com***

(“10 Questions for Paul Draper” questions composed by Rodrigo Mainardi of Mistral, Brazlian Distributor for Ridge Vineyards)

Paul Draper grew up on an eighty-acre farm in the Chicago suburb of Barrington. After attending the Choate School and receiving a degree in philosophy from Stanford University, he lived for two years in northern Italy. Later he attended the University of Paris and traveled extensively in France, gaining practical experience in traditional winemaking. In the mid-sixties, with a close friend, he set up a small winery in the coast range of Chile and produced several vintages of cabernet sauvignon. He joined Ridge Vineyards in 1969, and presently resides atop Monte Bello Ridge with his wife Maureen and daughter Caitlin. He is known for his crafting of fine cabernets and chardonnays from the Monte Bello estate vineyards, and as a pioneer in the production of long-lived, complex zinfandels.

What IS High Alcohol In Wine?

August 8, 2011

If you’re a part of the wine industry, or if you follow it, it’s hard to get away from the debate; the alcohol level debate. Everywhere you turn, it’s a dominating topic of conversation.

A recent example is a column (Decanter Magazine, September 2011) by the famed English wine writer Oz Clarke, which was summed up by Decanter’s own Adam Lechmere as follows:

There is no style revolution in California: low acid, velvet tannins and high alcohol is what Americans want from their wine and Californian winemakers will continue to feed that need.

There was, predictably, a whole host of responses to the article (and to Mr. Lechmere’s summary!), including a notable offering from Steve Heimoff (Wine Enthusiast), who wrote the following:

I’ve been saying it for years: this supposed “trend” toward lower alcohol wine is largely a fiction invented and perpetuated by writers who (a) wish it were true and (b) need something sexy to write about in their columns and on their blogs.

All of which got me thinking of an admittedly tangential, but certainly related question: what IS high alcohol?

Is it the 14% cut-off, with “high” being above and “low” being below? This certainly seems to be the most commonly deployed barometer, but is it appropriate?

Honestly, I don’t think so, because I think “high” and “low” are relative terms, and what is high for one varietal, for example, may not be so high for another varietal. To simply say that if it’s over 14% ABV it’s a high-alcohol wine is, to my mind, a fairly meaningless assessment, and one doomed to inaccuracy, because it’s devoid of context.

As far as I’m concerned, the question should be, is the wine balanced? If you’re noticing too much of the alcohol, and not enough of the other components, then it’s a high-alcohol wine. This can happen at 13.2%, and it can happen at 15.2%. Conversely, if the wines wears its alcohol well, and is integrated and harmonious, then the wine is accordingly a balanced wine, and not high-alcohol at all. This can happen at 13.2%, and it can happen at 15.2%.

Consider the Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, long hailed as one of the most consistently balanced, elegant zinfandels California has ever produced. (“Year after year, Ridge makes some of the most polished, refined, and beautifully balanced zinfandels in California.”  – Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible)

I took a look at the past thirty years or so of Geyserville, and came up with some interesting tidbits. For example:

1996 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, 14.9% ABV

“A powerful wine that manages to wear its alcohol gracefully” – excerpted from a Stephen Tanzer review

And from Wine & Spirits Magazine: “This is the Ridge zinfandel of the vintage and certainly one of the very best overall. Well-farmed old-vine fruit, combined with Paul Draper’s informed winemaking, provide a supple and elegant zin. Because the fruit isn’t as dense as in some vintages, the wine has a lightness and grace to it that is ideal with food. It’s dark red in color with vivid aromas of oak spice, pepper, venison, bacon, plum and wild berries, the palate supple with firm acidity. Not overly complex, just beautifully balanced and complete.”

And from Wine Spectator: “… Supple and harmonious …”

Graceful? Supple? Lightness and Grace? Harmonious? At 14.9% ABV? Go figure …

Now, take the 1998 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville. It clocked in at 14.1% ABV. And yet here is Robert Parker, the purported Godfather of Support for the “ripe” style:

“One of Ridge’s classic efforts, the 1998 Geyserville (74% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignan, and 1% Mataro) possesses Bordeaux-like complexity and elegance…This classy, elegant, restrained, yet authoritatively rich Zinfandel should be consumed over the next 5-6 years.”

Hmmm …

Now, let’s jump all the way back to 1982! What did the critics say then? Well, Wine Enthusiast called the nose “overripe.” It was 12.6% ABV! But, lest you go thinking, “Aha! See! That’s the way it used to be done, lower alcohol!”, jump back even further to 1978, and you’ll find the Geyserville coming in at 14.9% ABV, and being described by the very same Wine Enthusiast reviewer as: “Deep, complex … almost Burgundian style.”

The point being that, while the alcohol levels vary notably (something the reviewer notes, insomuch as he calls the 82 “low alcohol” and the 78 “high alcohol”), the quality remains consistent, and balance is paramount.

In its many-decade history, the Geyserville has been as low as the low 13s, and as high as the high 14s, and it has accrued praise and appreciation throughout, and given great joy and pleasure to those who have tasted it.

So is Geyserville a “high-alcohol” wine?

Don’t bother answering, says me, because it’s the wrong question.

And on another note, Steve Heimoff made an interesting comment to his own blog post (in response to an earlier comment in the feed); when he wrote:

All I’m saying is that, from my vantage point of tasting nearly 5,000 California wines a year, I don’t see them moving away from high alcohol, especially the Cabernets.

Which of course got me thinking of the Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello.

So I did the same sort of thing as I did with the Geyserville; I went looking back through the long history of Monte Bello, to see what I could discover about alcohol levels. Dig this:

The 1970 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello was 13.5% ABV.  The 1962 (the first Monte Bello ever produced) was 12.4% ABV. The median there is about 13% ABV. The 2007 Monte Bello (current vintage) is 13.1%ABV.

Interesting.

Now, are we the exception to the rule? Perhaps. Perhaps not. But I’m pretty sure it’s not the Monte Bello that Steve (or Oz) are talking about. And I’m certainly not presenting the above as any sort of challenge to their points.

Rather, it’s just another way of approaching my primary thesis, which is that,  at the end of the day, I truly believe we should be debating balance first and foremost, not alcohol levels. ABV is certainly a legitimate sub-category in any debate about any given wine (as are fruit, minerality, structure, spice, acidity, etc.), but it’s just that, a sub-category, and nothing more or less.

Now, I should disclaim all the above by saying I recognize that Oz Clarke and Steve Heimoff are talking about something a little different; what they’re essentially talking about is the continuing dominance of a style despite a sea of rhetoric seemingly indicating a sea change in another direction; their point seems to be that it is everything from wishful thinking to out and out hypocrisy to believe that the style in question is in fact changing.

This is not what I’m on about. They may in fact be right. But my concern is the focus of the debate itself, which I believe may need some re-framing; getting away from primarily obsessing over alcohol levels, and the question of high vs. low alcohol wines, and focusing instead on the question of balance.

And on yet another note, I think we also need to be careful about getting too cynical about our wine buyers out there.

As wine producers, I think we can actually happily show great respect for, and faith in, our consumers and their palates. They may not all understand secondary malolactic fermentaion, or know what the word “veraison” means, or be able to discuss the difference between pad and membrane filtration methods, or define “brix levels,” but they can tell balanced from unbalanced, on a visceral if not always analytical level. And that’s a great thing. And sure, they might buy the “fruit bombs” sometimes, but they buy lots of other styles too, and that’s also a great thing. Their ability to discern and to experiment, to learn and to change, to vary and to sample; this is what keeps us all in business. And believe you me, they can spot a good wine, and they can spot a not-so-good wine, and the difference is balance. Balance is what give a wine its magic; that unnameable certain something that makes one wine an “excitement wine,” and another one not. And I truly believe that, in the end, that’s what wine consumers are responding to.

Balance. It’s what makes a wine sing.

I see it every day in our tasting rooms. I see it in their faces, that slight and subtle, inward-looking smile that twinkingly emerges when a magic wine hits their palate. They may not always know the what, where, how, and why of why the wine tastes the way it does, but they can sense it when it’s good.

And I say it’s good, when it’s balanced.

A Parade of Rarities …

June 16, 2011

A trio of us here at Ridge/Monte Bello were fortunate participants recently in an event of unexpected reverence, decadence, and untamed historical significance.

It was a Saturday evening. The few scarves of sun that remained wrapped around the neck of the day had given way to the blue fleece of dusk; faint rays slalomed over the pale powders that crept up the bobbled landslides of the mountain as faint tendrils of fog Grinch-fingered their way between the coarse limestone fractures.

The heaters had been warming up the Old Winery Barn for several hours, and the lingering heat from the times when the sun had blanched the windows still remained. Every chair, as it unfolded, sent a creak around the rafters, every table leg that landed sounded shots across the beams. As the tablecloths were dropped, and softly pressed against their structures, one could start to sense the gathering to come. Finally, it was done, every glass buffed to perfection, every water pitcher filled, and in the trench behind the bar, all the tools soon to be called on, all the Ah Sos and the Double-Stops, the pullers and the strainers, the decanters and the funnels …

The barn was empty, we were ready …

It began just like a party always does, a lot of talking, idle drinking, social planets, misaligned, finally coming into orbit, but the sun and its trajectory made mincemeat of it all, of the watches, all the gold ones and the silver’d, in the pockets, on the wrists; no time for talking, what’s this wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!?

What’s this wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!

And now, we say poetry, Godspeed ye on your way, for now’s no time for words; wicked prose, begone, ye idler of time!

To borrow a phrase from a guest in attendance, it’s time to “geek out” on the wine …

So, what was it in that wood crate on the bar? The centerpiece of the evening. A 6 liter bottle of …

of …

of 1968 Monte Bello!

What is that wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!?!?!?

 
Yours truly was called on to open and decant. The role of a lifetime. Under the intensest of scrutinies, I went to work. Spelunker in the sediments of 1968. Inch by inch, row by row, tool by tool, I was making it. A crumble here, a nudge there. Movement, then no movement. I was sweating. Finally, some 25 minutes later, I was done. The wine lay there, in decanters of many shapes and sizes, tasting its first lungfuls of the cool mountain air since being genie’d to the bottle over 40 years ago. It looked magnificent. It was royal, it was holy. We were thirsty.
 

Hello. Hello again.

But is it really “thirst” one feels when one is facing such a wine? Certainly it’s not the thirst of a parched throat, a grumbling stomach. Perhaps the thirst of a mendicant in the desert of one’s mind, seeking answers to a koan never answered? Or is it just flat-out greed, the wish to taste that which has never been tasted, the desire to own an experience that, once felt, cannot be claimed by any other. God only knows, but we were thirsty!
 
I am ashamed to admit how little of the taste I can recall now. The experiential was almost too much to bear, too much to conceive. How, when tasting a wine with this kind of history writ into its very DNA, could one possibly resort to platitudes of the “nice, round tannins, mid-tone fruit, lovely cedar, just a hint of a clove and anise” sort? Answer? One can’t. Because you don’t TASTE a wine like this, you RELIVE a wine like this, as if you’re falling off a cliff, and life in its entirely is passing by your eyes. You RELIVE a life you never even had. You RELIVE the life we ALL have had; to drink a wine like this is to tap into the Dundesian Collective Unconsciousness, the shared folklore of all human-hood.
 
I could tell you about some of the other wonderful, surprising, stunning wines we prepared and tasted that night. Like the other 1968 contribution, the Ruby Cabernet …
 
 
Or the now-legendary 1970 Occidental Late Harvest Zinfandel …
 
 
Or the 1975 Geyserville (truly outstanding!) …
 
 
 
Or the 1979 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, which, from a “normal” tasting standpoint, was in its own way kind of the wine of the night …
 
 
But truly, with the hallowed ghosts of the Old Winery Barn as my witnesses, I will never forget that 6 liter bottle of 1968 Monte Bello.
 
To you (and you know who you are!) I thank you. On behalf of my colleagues and myself, who had no expectations other than to host an evening event, I thank you. For adding our names to an exalted list in the books of Ridge history, I thank you. Simply, I thank you.
 
 
 
 
 

Are You Experienced?

May 31, 2011

The sun has long since seceded from The Union of my Santa Cruz sky.

Where once there were epaulets of gossamer light cascading down the low, shallow shoulders of my cloudscape, there is now only darkness; rivulets and epaulets, indigo and purple, the onyx and the ebony, the ether.

I try to put my mind to wine, but it wanders —as it should — into the vast, experiential other ethos; to the ethos of experience, the gatherings and happenings, the welcomings and wishings, the praisings and the mournings, the mornings and the evenings.

In my mind, it is a movie; Wine Noir. All smoke and contrast, where what is right resides alone in noble hearts; where one does what feels like right because a feeling is as lawful as a law; is as right as is a toast to all the world.

The stories I could tell.

Every letter, every e-mail, every phone call. My father’s favorite wine was Monte Bello. We got engaged over a glass of Geyserville. I bought up futures from the year my son was born. I still remember where I was when I first had the Lytton Springs; the war was done, and I was home, and it was good. For forty years now we’ve been married, and the ’71 ain’t half as good as us.

Are you experienced? Have you ever been experienced? Well, I have.

I heard a chef on the radio, early in the morning, speak of memory. Vividity, Variety, and Story.

Heard a singer on the radio late last night
He says he’s gonna kick the darkness
’til it bleeds daylight

Will you come taste some wine with me? I am high up on a mountain, where the wet air of the ocean meets the dry spells of the valley, where the mountain lions chase the wingspan shadows of the hawks, where the rattlesnakes engage in the honor of the duel, where a flower is a home is a meal is a medal, where the sky could not be bigger, then it is.

I understand the myth of genies in a bottle, and the wishes that are granted.

I understand the faith of Piglet, and his message in the bottle, and I understand why Pooh takes it for granted it’s important. I was named after Christopher Robin, and I’ll rescue anyone, from any rain; the faith is in the bottle, and we’ll tell a gallant tale. And we’ll have a hero party, where we’ll serve straight from decanters; we’ll dip fingers in the sediment, and paint our faces pacifist.

This is how a mind ascends the ladder of a train that runs on tracks whose sole direction is to parallel the ocean. My Santa Cruz, my ocean, my wine.

Are you experienced? Have you ever been experienced? Well, I have.


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