2008 Ridge Vineyards Jimsomare Zinfandel
One sniff and I know I’m in Jimsomare country; a great and strange place; funkily mystical, mountainously ghosty, soulfully perfect. Jimsomare.
This is rarefied juice; pure Black Mountain, the aroma and flavor of another California; Prospector Zinfandel, Cowboy Zinfandel, Pioneer Zinfandel; this is 5 acres worth of Occurrence Appearing Of Itself, of wine singing We Got More Soul, Dig it …
The nose is rich with saturated blue and black fruit, fragrant tobacco and autumn leaf, and a dense brambliness that brings both berry and branch to the fore; these middle harmonics are undergirded by a firm bassline of pemmican, persimmon, and fig, and topped by a tenor line of loganberry sweetness.
The palate is uniquely supple, with a deft braiding of cool-climate acid and old-vine concentration. Fruit character is almost elusively complex; at once moodily beguiling, laconically demonstrative, and languidly sensual. No one trait dominates, and while the essential core is a dark one, there is a wild mountain liveliness that lends a smoldering intensity to the redder notes of the flavor spectrum.
The finish is perfectly executed — lengthwise and depthwise — and the integrative endeavor has prospered through several years of bottle age, making this a wine that is just now entering its first perfect stage. This is Keith Richards of “Satisfaction” days.