Archive for June, 2011

A Parade of Rarities …

June 16, 2011

A trio of us here at Ridge/Monte Bello were fortunate participants recently in an event of unexpected reverence, decadence, and untamed historical significance.

It was a Saturday evening. The few scarves of sun that remained wrapped around the neck of the day had given way to the blue fleece of dusk; faint rays slalomed over the pale powders that crept up the bobbled landslides of the mountain as faint tendrils of fog Grinch-fingered their way between the coarse limestone fractures.

The heaters had been warming up the Old Winery Barn for several hours, and the lingering heat from the times when the sun had blanched the windows still remained. Every chair, as it unfolded, sent a creak around the rafters, every table leg that landed sounded shots across the beams. As the tablecloths were dropped, and softly pressed against their structures, one could start to sense the gathering to come. Finally, it was done, every glass buffed to perfection, every water pitcher filled, and in the trench behind the bar, all the tools soon to be called on, all the Ah Sos and the Double-Stops, the pullers and the strainers, the decanters and the funnels …

The barn was empty, we were ready …

It began just like a party always does, a lot of talking, idle drinking, social planets, misaligned, finally coming into orbit, but the sun and its trajectory made mincemeat of it all, of the watches, all the gold ones and the silver’d, in the pockets, on the wrists; no time for talking, what’s this wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!?

What’s this wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!

And now, we say poetry, Godspeed ye on your way, for now’s no time for words; wicked prose, begone, ye idler of time!

To borrow a phrase from a guest in attendance, it’s time to “geek out” on the wine …

So, what was it in that wood crate on the bar? The centerpiece of the evening. A 6 liter bottle of …

of …

of 1968 Monte Bello!

What is that wood crate on the bar?!?!?!?!?!?!?

 
Yours truly was called on to open and decant. The role of a lifetime. Under the intensest of scrutinies, I went to work. Spelunker in the sediments of 1968. Inch by inch, row by row, tool by tool, I was making it. A crumble here, a nudge there. Movement, then no movement. I was sweating. Finally, some 25 minutes later, I was done. The wine lay there, in decanters of many shapes and sizes, tasting its first lungfuls of the cool mountain air since being genie’d to the bottle over 40 years ago. It looked magnificent. It was royal, it was holy. We were thirsty.
 

Hello. Hello again.

But is it really “thirst” one feels when one is facing such a wine? Certainly it’s not the thirst of a parched throat, a grumbling stomach. Perhaps the thirst of a mendicant in the desert of one’s mind, seeking answers to a koan never answered? Or is it just flat-out greed, the wish to taste that which has never been tasted, the desire to own an experience that, once felt, cannot be claimed by any other. God only knows, but we were thirsty!
 
I am ashamed to admit how little of the taste I can recall now. The experiential was almost too much to bear, too much to conceive. How, when tasting a wine with this kind of history writ into its very DNA, could one possibly resort to platitudes of the “nice, round tannins, mid-tone fruit, lovely cedar, just a hint of a clove and anise” sort? Answer? One can’t. Because you don’t TASTE a wine like this, you RELIVE a wine like this, as if you’re falling off a cliff, and life in its entirely is passing by your eyes. You RELIVE a life you never even had. You RELIVE the life we ALL have had; to drink a wine like this is to tap into the Dundesian Collective Unconsciousness, the shared folklore of all human-hood.
 
I could tell you about some of the other wonderful, surprising, stunning wines we prepared and tasted that night. Like the other 1968 contribution, the Ruby Cabernet …
 
 
Or the now-legendary 1970 Occidental Late Harvest Zinfandel …
 
 
Or the 1975 Geyserville (truly outstanding!) …
 
 
 
Or the 1979 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, which, from a “normal” tasting standpoint, was in its own way kind of the wine of the night …
 
 
But truly, with the hallowed ghosts of the Old Winery Barn as my witnesses, I will never forget that 6 liter bottle of 1968 Monte Bello.
 
To you (and you know who you are!) I thank you. On behalf of my colleagues and myself, who had no expectations other than to host an evening event, I thank you. For adding our names to an exalted list in the books of Ridge history, I thank you. Simply, I thank you.
 
 
 
 
 

Big, Big, Big Doin’s up at Lytton Springs!

June 13, 2011

As if you needed another reason to visit one of the most beautiful properties in Northern California! As if your already beauty-battered soul could actually withstand yet even more lusciousness!

I am telling you, what those Lytton Springs folks are doing up there is DANGEROUS! They are playing with fire, and they are not afraid to get burned. They are pushing giant Sissyphean balls of beauty up a mountain of love, and ain’t nothin’ rollin’ back down! They were up above it, now they’re down in it. They are lifting you up where you belong, they are lighting up your life, and they are hopelessly devoted to you. They are forever yours, faithfully.

I have but two words for you: Vineyard, and Terrace.

 
This is bigger than Sinatra, than Shaq, than Bear in the Big Blue House’s house. This is Big In Japan big.
 
This is the “official” announcement:
 
It is with great excitement and enthusiasm that we announce our new Vineyard Terrace at Lytton Springs in Healdsburg, California. This outdoor tasting area provides guests visiting our estate a wonderful opportunity to enjoy our single-vineyard wines in a relaxed and comfortable setting. Overlooking some of the oldest vines in Sonoma County, the Vineyard Terrace is a truly unique experience, providing our guests a new level of engagement, education and hospitality. We look forward to welcoming you to Lytton Springs this summer.
 
And after digging that, dig this …
 
 
 
I kid you not, I don’t even work at the Lytton Springs property, and I am THRILLED about this development, and knowing well as I do the hospitality team up there, I can only imagine the kind of fantasticness that awaits visitors who opt to experience this new environment. It will be transformational. Not like Transformers transformative, where you become some sort of Humvee-thing, not Wonder Twin Powers Activate! transformative, where you become the form of an ice windmill, or the shape of an elephant seal, but transformative like meditating your way to another plane of consciousness.
 
And yes, to pre-empt your questions, he does actually work at Lytton Springs …
 

Yes. Yes he does ...

Won’t you come for a visit? It will truly be loverly …
 
For more about visiting Lytton Springs, please click here.

Next Wine Blogger Tasting!

June 9, 2011

If you like this sort of thing:

In this sort of place:

At this sort of table:

Then you might want to consider attending this event. It’s our second Wine Blogger Tasting of 2011, and it will be held at Ridge Vineyards/Monte Bello on 6.17.11. If you blog about wine, and if you’re interested in attending, let me know. I’m pretty sure you won’t regret it.

For more about this very special event series, please click here.

2005 Paso Robles, Tasting Notes!

June 8, 2011

 It’s not very often that I get to taste a library Paso Robles zinfandel. You’ll probably be able to tell that I rather enjoyed the opportunity!

2005 Ridge Vineyards Paso Robles (library release)

An emphasis on concentration, structure, depth, and intensity was paramount to the process of bringing this zinfandel to bottle, particularly as regards how the juice was handled in the winery. Small tank fermentations, submerged skins, and the inclusion of a majority of press wine all contribute to a varietal zinfandel of notable compression and richness; one that is truly authentic to its central coast micro-climate. That a designation notable for its front-and-center fruit-driven opulence should be showing all these same traits with 5+ years of bottle age under its belt is particularly noteworthy. The aromatics are still plush with plum and cherry notes, and the garnet belly and mauve limn bespeak a host of fruit still on offer. Front of palate affirms this prediction with a healthy dose of ripe, succulent fruit and a pleasingly oleaginous mouthfeel. What is particularly fascinating is the subtle emergence of spice and tobacco notes that begin to permeate the aromatics with a bit of time; after tasting two bottles, our recommendation is double-decanting, with a good 20-40 minute breathing session to follow. The spice notes filter into the front-palate, but really begin to take root in the middle; here is where fruit and spice intensely co-mingle, and the results are both easily pleasant and complexly head-turning; just as one’s palate is set to bask in the plushness, a new piquancy emerges.  The finish wraps up a fine narrative of approachability hybridized to complexity; a very pleasant surprise for a designation usually noted for its ripeness of fruit and fleshiness of mouthfeel. Not a timid wine by any means, but with a bit of maturation, a wine that has definitively laid additional tracks across its otherwise fruit-forward landscape.

 

p.s. if you’re a member of one of our wine programs, you can actually purchase this wine, but hurry, this won’t last!

Old Vine To Table

June 6, 2011

Monte Bello is a storied locale. There is no getting around it. It’s where Ridge began. The first vintage was 1962. It’s 2011 now. That’s a lot of years to be making wine, and a lot of years to be hosting people for tastings. Talk to the old timers. They remember when it was just Paul Draper, sitting on a bench, ladling Monte Bello out of a soup tureen while feral dogs ran wild through the vineyards. (Disclaimer: Paul never used a ladle.)

Seriously though, things have changed a bit, and also not so much. But the point is, Monte Bello has a lot of history notched into its belt when it comes to tasting wine.

Lytton Springs is the diamond in the rough. History for days (can you say 115+ year-old vines?), a stunning legacy of Single-Vineyard Estate Wines (anyone notice that bit from Thomas Keller –French Laundry– about how he would choose Lytton Springs if it was to be his last wine on earth?) but a wee youngun’ when it comes to tastings.

Have you been there? If you have, then you don’t need no stinkin’ convertin’. But if you’ve not yet made the pleasure of acquaintance with all that goes on up there, I am here to help you dig it to the fullest extent of your cranial-emotive capabilities.

The staff at Lytton Springs? Amazing. The location? Amazing. The wines. Amazing.

But I am telling you, they also know how to put on an AFFAIR! I mean, a Top-Shelf, Grade A, USRDA approved, #1, Top of the Pops, Presidential Seal of Approval, HAPPENING.

Take the very recent Old Vine to Table event as but one example. And then hire a detective, who is able to travel through time and space, in a rocket ship, to go find your mind. Because it will be blown.

Put another way, what an event!

Just a little something Lytton Springs threw together for some members. Just a little somethin’ somethin’ …

Meaning, a gourmet four-course meal amidst the backdrop of our century-old vines. With featured wines including the following:

–1987, 1994, 2003, 2004 & 2008 Lytton Springs 

–1995 Monte Bello

–2007 Geyserville Essence

And did I mention that dinner was prepared from ingredients entirely sourced from Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma? Or that Farm owner Tara Smith and her husband Craig were on hand to host? 

And if that’s not enough, did you also know that Winemaker John Olney, President Mark Vernon, Vice President of Vineyard Operations David Gates, and Vice President of Sales David Amadia were also there?

I mean, hell’s bells, this thing was interstellar on fire magnificent!

Alright, dig, I know, you want to know more about the food. Well, menu up yourself!

Passed Hors d’ Oeuvres

House Cured Wild Pacific Salmon

Spring Pea Blini, Flowers & Bell Creme Fraiche

Pickled Beef Tongue Crostini

Farm Egg, Maple, Brioche

1st Course

Chicken Crepinette, Maitake, Pickled Grapes

2nd Course

Slow Roasted Pork Tenderloin

Spoon Bread, Cilantro, Hibiscus, Charred Pineapple

3rd Course

Braised Brisket

Redwood Hill Cheddar Fondue Potatoes, Fava Beans, French Onion Broth

(cheffed up by the very great folks at Feast!)

Oh yeah, that’s the stuff.

I’m just sayin’, this was some kind of special event, and do you really want to know what made it the special-est? Not the century-and-then-some- old-vines, not the roster of Ridge principals on hand, not the Fondue Potatoes (though good lord, that sounds good!), not even the wine. It was the guests in attendance. Just really fine, fine, folks. The best.

On behalf of us all, thank you for attending this very special event. It was such a pleasure to have you.

And to everyone out there, while we can’t promise an event like this every day, we do really want you to visit us, because we love what we do; we love these wines,we love the how, where, what, why of how they’re made, and more than anything else, we love to share them with you, to talk about them with you, and perhaps best of all, to hear from you later, when you tell us all the amazing stories about the how, where, what, why of how you ended by sharing the wine you took home from us.

Old Vine to Table? Certainly. But event more than that? Us to You.

Ridge is going to Twitter … No, I mean it, I am GOING to Twitter! Meaning, I will be at Twitter/SF tomorrow!

June 6, 2011

No, I’m not going to start USING Twitter. I already DO that. And no, I’m not going to Tweet. I already do that too. No, I am GOING to Twitter! I mean, I am really GOING to Twitter!

Because Twitter is not just a state of mind. It’s a real place. A REAL place. Not a place like Atlantis, or The Death Star, or a Town Called Malice.

It’s a real place.

And I’m going there. Tomorrow. Tomorrow night, in fact. I am going to Twitter.

There is not a 140-brick Yellow Brick Road to get there. Nor is it 140 miles to get there. And it doesn’t cost $140 to gain entrance. Nor are there 140 velvet ropes to lie your way past, or 140 security guards to plead with. It is not $1.40 to park there. Nor does a small cheese pizza cost $14.0 there. And there are both less, and more, than 140 people who work there. And I am not bringing 140 bottles of wine there. And if it’s 140 degrees there, all the cheese I am bringing will melt. And the bread I am bringing will toast. I am not bringing 140 loaves of bread.

What I AM doing is going to Twitter. And I will be there from 6pm Pacific Standard Time, until 7pm Pacific Standard Time. Just one hour. Not 140 hours. Just that one hour. But during that one hour, I will be pouring some very, very, very, very good wine, for some very, very, very, very nice people. They work at Twitter. I don’t. But I am going to where they work. I am going to Twitter. Not quite like Jaqueline in Luka Bloom’s “Gone to Pablo …

With dreams and magic pictures to uncover/Now that all that earthly sadness was behind/Jaqueline’s gone to Pablo …

but sort of.

Mainly, I want you to join me. Maybe not all of you. But at least 140 of you. Yes. I want 140 of you to join me as I taste wines in Twitter.

IN Twitter.

Which, if  Twitter was an imaginary place, would be like saying I want 140 of you to join me as I taste wine with William Faulkner in Yoknapatawpha County.

Except that Twitter is a real place. All 140 square feet of it. Except it’s bigger than that. WAY bigger than that.

At 6pm (Pacific Standard Time) tomorrow night, I would really like it if you would join me in the virtual Twitter-sphere to taste some Ridge wines. 140 of you. Just open some Ridge wine, wherever you are. Just do this. And if 140 of you will do this, it would then be really great if you would post your thoughts on Twitter. And if you would do that, it would be really great if you would make sure to include #RidgeVineyards in your tweet. Because then I’ll know you were with me. All 140 of you. With me.

With me, in a land called Honalee.

Except that Honalee is imaginary. And Twitter isn’t. It’s a REAL place. Not like Narnia. Or Brooklyn. But a REAL place. And I’m going there. Tomorrow night. 6pm.

Be there, or make the world of dreams die. Like in The Neverending Story.

Where The Nothing threatens.

Put it this way, if 140 of you don’t join me in tasting Ridge wine at 6pm Pacific Standard Time tomorrow night, then Moses Gunn will cry 140 tears.

And just in case 140 of you are confused by that reference, you might recognize Moses Gunn this way …

And you don’t want HIM to cry, do you?

Of course not …

Funk Power. Over & Out. A reference that hopefully at least 140 Clash fans will recognize.

Funk Power. Over & Out.

#RidgeVineyards

I Have Two Words For You: “Zinfandel,” and “Barbecue” … THE EVENT OF THE SUMMER!

June 6, 2011

I have two words for you: Zinfandel and Barbecue.

We go together like rama-lama-lama-lama-ding-de-ding-de-dong

Zinfandel …

and Barbecue …

And now I have five more words for you: THE EVENT OF THE SUMMER!

Zins, Blends, and BBQ!

 My personal invitation to you:

It sounds so simple, and in many ways it is; Zinfandel & BBQ: a perfect pair. But think about Kansas City, think about Memphis, think about Texas! Research is clearly required … and Ridge is here to help. I happily invite you to join me for an exploration of regional barbecue styles, and how to pair them with different zinfandels. Our specially-selected chefs will be offering a quartet of regional styles (yes, there will even be a Northern California spin!) perfectly paired with our singular array of single-vineyard zinfandels, and all you have to do is sip, taste, and enjoy! So please join me this 4th of July weekend for an engaging afternoon of delicious wine, food and friends.

The “Official” Specs:

Zins, Blends & BBQ
Saturday July 2nd ~ Monte Bello
11-5pm, complimentary to Members, $30/person otherwise

The “Unofficial” Specs:

This is going to be so good!

Don’t believe me? Then let Steve Heimoff – legendary wine author, Wine Enthusiast West Coast Editor, and host of the award-winning blog SteveHeimoff.com –tell you all about it. Steve just very recently penned a piece for Wine Enthusiast Magazine all about pairing zinfandel with barbecue, and alongside a delightful panoply of delicious possibilities, he highlights our 2009 Ridge Vineyards East Bench with a 92 point rating!

92 Ridge 2009 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $26. A rich and satisfying Zinfandel, showing classic varietal flavors of ripe, wild red berries, tobacco, soy sauce, bacon and white pepper. Alcohol is notable in the slight heat and glyceriney sweetness, but those elements are welcome parts of the wine’s personality.

You can read Steve’s full article here.

Now, back to our Zins, Blends, and BBQ Event. To RSVP and/or purchase tickets, please click here.

Zinfandel & Barbecue.

Remembered forever like
shoo bop shoo wadda wadda yipitty boom de boom …

Why Are There So Many Songs About Rainbows?

June 5, 2011

Why are there so many songs about rainbows
And what’s on the other side?
Rainbows are visions, but only illusions,
And rainbows have nothing to hide.

–Kermit the Frog (written by Paul Williams)

 

Why ARE there so many songs about rainbows?

Because they’re beautiful.

Because when their shimmeringly translucent septet of colors

makes its first hesitant appearance

–as a snail does on a sidewalk after rain,

sliding its hesitant eyes out from under the coiled shed of shell–

our hearts are called at once to tenderness and nurturing;

how could something so fragile exist in this world?

This is why the rainbows draw our songs.

Because in the end, they can’t last, and we know this,

and we mourn, even as we revel in their beauty,

expressed like a letter pledging love,

the majesty arcing over valleys, over mountains, over oceans,

or, like last night, over the city as it rests below my vineyard.

I know I shouldn’t, as I’m just about to take the wild descent down Monte Bello,

but the moment calls for more, and so I open up my trunk,

and pull a half-empty bottle from its worn cardboard case.

Tipped toward the rainbow, the cork is an arrow,

fired from the Cupid of my longings,

and once fired, then the liquid; just a bit upon my tongue,

there to be savored with a prayer,

that all the world might sample beauty,

sample fervor and devotion,

even just for one fine moment

of vision and illusion.

Howl, Superfly, and the new 2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane!

June 3, 2011

I have been listening to Superfly and typing on a 1940s Royal. Why? Because June 3rd is the birthday of both Curtis Mayfield and Allen Ginsberg, and I LOVE that kind of synchronicity! Too hip …

In the spirit of Allen Ginsberg’s immortal “first word/best word” mantra, I have been typing spontaneously, no editing. A feat of Kerouacian stamina … and that may explain why I used “pop rocks” as a verb. But in honor of Mr. Mayfield, I was beautiful and funky while I did it …

Because we’re pouring the new 2009 Buchignani Ranch at First Friday tonight, I thought I’d have a go at typing up some tasting notes. Here is where me, Allen, and Curtis ended up:

And here is what it all looked like in picture and video. And do note, if you would, the video. It’s the GREATEST decanting video EVER. Or so I think, emboldened as I am with all my Superflyness and Howlness …

The video:

The pics:

And of course, if necessary, a typewriter transcription:

2009 Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane

It’s baaaaaack! Not that the 2008 rendition wasn’t a fine wine; it was. But in certain vintages, the old-vine carignane from this extraordinary property just sings in a way that is inexplicably magical. The 2009 is clearly going to be one of these vintages, you can smell it as soon as the wine hits the glass. It’s that utterly singular combination of bouncing high-tone fruit and sweet, lascivious melted caramel, the blend of exotic spices, that cool herbaceousness … One sniff is all it takes. Front-palate takes a quick black turn, drawing in a nice tobacco-y tarriness before returning the tickling of bright spice and acrobatic acidity to pride-of-place. The mid-palate pop rocks a horde of bright red berry liveliness across the sensors, wrapping pinpoint acidity in a sleek coat of gossamer vitality. Put another way, it’s juicy, it’s got acidity, it’s just a touch sweet in character (if not actual sugars) and it’s utterly beguiling. The finish gets a touch of red apple skin into the mix, completing the chorus of components. Just a total winner, and now? I want cheese, glorious cheese, high fat cheese, triple cream cheese, cheese, cheese, cheese, nice round warm cheese to absorb all that crisp, clean acidity …


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