Archive for October, 2010

Blessed Are The Cheese-Makers!

October 29, 2010

“I’m just crackers about cheese!”

Wallace, Gromit, and Cheese!
 
I’m with Wallace on this one, and I think it’s probably safe to say all of us at Ridge are; we love cheese here. And fortunately, we have many occasions to serve it, and taste it. Of course, in the end, our mandate is to present our wines, so accordingly we select cheeses specifically for their contributions to the successful pairing paradigm. And being localists and site-specificists at heart, we traditionally make our selections from the extraordinary bounty on offer in Northern California.
 
“Blessed are the cheesemakers!”
 

from Monty Python's "Life of Brian"

And so they are! And that said, my primary impetus for writing this, and the reason why I have cheese on the brain this morning, is that I have just had the great pleasure of picking up our new cheese order, and it is comprised of a holy quartet of favorites …
 
Were these cheeses in fact a quartet, then Cypress Grove’s Humboldt Fog would have to be the cello; warm, resonant, dense, heavy, yet elegant and rich with gravitas and sonority …
 
 
 
 
 
And surely Cypress Grove’s Lambchopper, with the long, long strokes of its elegant and buttery finish, could play no other part than that of the rich, middle-layer viola …
 
 
And lastly, we have Redwood Hill Farms’ Camellia and Bellwether Farms’ Carmody dancing atop the quartet as the two violins; the tart and tang of goat’s milk and rind mimicking the pluck of pizzicato, and the warm Jersey milk evoking  the elegant long strikes of a bow …
 
 
Ah, the beautiful music of cheese …

Light On Lytton Springs: Block 23!

October 28, 2010

There are few things in the world more visually stunning than a vineyard in the mercurialy pathos-laden clutches of autumn. Autumn in and of itself seems perennially notable for the broodingly poetic emotions it evokes, from the compellingly beautific and austere brilliances of Basho’s haiku:

Autumn moonlight–
a worm digs silently
into the chestnut.

to the heart-rendingly blunt heartland realism of James Wright:

In the Shreve High football stadium,
I think of Polacks nursing long beers in Tiltonsville,
And gray faces of Negroes in the blast furnace at Benwood,
And the ruptured night watchman of Wheeling Steel,
Dreaming of heroes.

All the proud fathers are ashamed to go home.
Their women cluck like starved pullets,
Dying for love.

Therefore,
Their sons grow suicidally beautiful
At the beginning of October,
And gallop terribly against each other’s bodies.

and on to the near-baroquely emotional fundamentalism of Rilke:
 
Lord: it is time. The huge summer has gone by.
Now overlap the sundials with your shadows,
and on the meadows let the wind go free.

Command the fruits to swell on tree and vine;
grant them a few more warm transparent days,
urge them on to fulfillment then, and press
the final sweetness into the heavy wine.

Whoever has no house now, will never have one.
Whoever is alone will stay alone,
will sit, read, write long letters through the
evening,
and wander the boulevards, up and down,
restlessly, while the dry leaves are blowing.

Autumn moves us. Unquestionably. And to observe autumn twining the tendrils of its melancholically zen-like in-the-present-ness with the fading vigor of vines who’ve made their dramatic contributions to the harvest and are now receding slowly into their long hibernation, is to be moved by the sheer beauty and complexity of life itself in all its compellingly mystic beauty.
 
Accordingly, my thanks go out to Sandy Johnson, our tasting room manager at Lytton Springs, for sending the following; these shots are of Block 23 at Lytton West, and, well, I should just be quiet now, and let you see for yourself … 
 

 

 

VineWatch 2010: We Made It!

October 25, 2010

On a cold and wet Friday morning, our lil’ vine came to the end of a long and significant journey; through thick and thin, rain and wind, sun and cold, it has weathered this most mysterious of growing seasons with staunchness, grit, and determination. Determination to see its fruits come to fruition, to make its final contribution to what will one day be the 2010 Monte Bello. Lil’ vine, I salute you, you made it!

VineWatch 2010: The End

 

It was a bright, brisk spring day when David Gates first walked with me up the hill into the vines to make our selection. Hard to believe it all started like this …

VineWatch 2010: In The Beginning

 

I await with a special sense of appreciation next year’s Monte Bello Component Tasting, my first opportunity to share with you the fruits of this beautiful vine, and all the beautiful vines on our mountain. I sincerely hope to see you there.

Sunday Morning Rain = Red Wine Drinking Weather!

October 24, 2010

Against a blurred and shimmering backdrop of misted slate,
the green-black boughs of stalwart mountain trees
whip and dance in the muted frenzy of autumn’s fraying passions;
in the rivulets that run to the puddles one can see reflections
of the gray turbulence above,
and as a gnarled palm can tell its open tale,
so too do thin and running threads
evoke a narrative of steadfastness and insanity
–if sanity be giving in to odds
and disbelief–
that bears a telling over claret, with a lover,
on a mountain; wind the brushes
gently striding on a snare, aching barn
the ponderous bass, the spackling rain against the panes
suspended fourths on the piano,
and the sound of sincere solitude
just a hiss along the brass
out through a mute
into a Sunday.

A Moody, Lovely Morning on the Mountain!

October 23, 2010

10.23.10, approx. 9am

On The Road

October 22, 2010

Ridge Vineyards maintains a pretty small staff roster overall, and accordingly, we’re a many-hatted lot. This means we all go on the stump at some point, spreading the viticultural message, preaching the oenophilic word, evangelicizing the gospel of the grape.

Given the conventions of the industry, much of this time on the road is spent visiting the usual suspects; restaurants and wine shops primarily (bless them all for their support!). But every now and again, a rather more unusual event comes looming on the horizon, and accordingly, the Ridge-o-lites go on the road to places rather more unconventional …

Such an occasion was on the calendar in the not-too-distant past; the 10th of October to be exact. Our president, Mark Vernon, attended an event at the Sharon Heights Country Club in Menlo Park (Northern California, if you’re not familiar with the area …) called “Soirée du Vin” which, if my high school French still serves me in any capacity, roughly translates to “party of wine.” Sounds like a rather fine event to me!

This was in fact a benefit for the International School of the Peninsula, and while the European Classic Car show was I’m sure wonderful to behold, I have to imagine the primary draw was the following:

Talk by Tyler Thomas,
“Smells like blither, tastes like blather:
exploring our cultural history of aroma appreciation
or lack thereof and how to (NOT) write a tasting note”

Hmmm … I wonder what Mr. Thomas would think about my notes? Just for fun, I decided to go back through some of the notes I’ve written on this blog, to see if I could find a distinctly egregious bit of purple prose-ish excess. Amongst many other examples, I found the following:

…The nose is youthfully funky, compressed, and dense, while the mouthfeel is comparatively lean and spicy; all aspects of the profile are showing quite deliciously, but the overall melodocism is still en route from discordance to harmony…

…the finish is both elegant and muscular, in the way of an Olympic skater perhaps, the acidity flashing bright blades of flavor across the wide rink of your palate, a small yet powerful spectacle of beauty and athleticism…

…wood and bark bracket the aromatics, with hints of dried fruit, exotic cardamom, and a touch of fennel & graphite; there is even a dose of jerked umaminess, and a trace of cured & spiced pepperoni…

…the point-of-entry is predictably tannin-heavy, though as the wine moves to mid-palate, its notable how much blueberry-esque fruit tones begin to emerge from the primordial LaBrea of young petite sirah structure … the finish is tannin, tannin, and more tannin; pleasing tannin, mind you, and cloaking a very sincere and earnest display of kinder/gentler petite sirah inkiness, but this is, at this point, a wine to watch, but not to drink … come winter, when this sees release, look for me, and a wedge of aromatic cheese, to be hiding in your basement, with a candle lit, reading Dickens …

Well, Mr. Thomas, what do you make of all that?

Anyhow, in Mark’s company was the rather appropriate choice of companion Jean-Marie Pratt, one of our wonderful harvest interns this year, and a genuine Frenchman through and through. I have him to thank for the following lovely pics from the event:

 

VineWatch 2010: The End of the Beard?

October 22, 2010

Soon, Mr. Beard, so very, very soon …

Doth The Beard Endeth?

Harvest 2010 Report: Nearing The Finish Line!

October 19, 2010

What a season! Hard to believe the ups, the downs, the twists, the turns, the surprises, the doubts, the challenges, the triumphs; hard to believe it’s all happened THIS year! Seems like it’s been enough excitement to span several seasons …

And speaking of seasons, all our drama has been playing out against the orange & black backdrop of the Giants mad and improbable run for the pennant …

Anyhow, I’m very happy to report that we’re finally nearing the finish line; zinfandel is pretty much picked out, almost all the chardonnay is in, even the bulk of the merlot and petit verdot has come in off the mountain; what this means is the focus is now squarely on the Monte Bello Cab, as the holy halo of harvest’s heavy coda rings its heaven-sent-down rim around the autumn, and the vineyard hums a simple Neal Young melody …

Will I see you give
more than I can take?
Will I only harvest some?
As the days fly past
will we lose our grasp
Or fuse it in the sun?

As a digression of sorts, we’ve regularly been the grateful hosts to wonderful harvest interns year after year after year, and this vintage has been no exception. I’m particularly grateful to one Jean-Marie Pratt, who has not only been a great harvest intern , he’s also been a steady supplier of harvest documentation, particularly in the form of photographs.

Here’s a great shot he took of our new sorting table in action (one more addition to our already preposterously high-maintenance harvest MO), and I tell you what; a special treat in the Monte Bello tasting room for anyone who can name all four of the folks in this pic!

 

Sortin Cab at Monte Bello ...

 

 

Will I see you give
more than I can take?
Will I only harvest some?
As the days fly past
will we lose our grasp
Or fuse it in the sun?

Monte Bello Library Tasting: Tasting Notes!

October 11, 2010

Well, it’s only the second weekend of our special new Monte Bello Library Tasting, so we’re still in the early pleasurable throes of learning, re-learning, discovering and re-discovering these vintages (1994, 1992, 1992, in 375ml), but I thought I’d give a little run-down on our collective internal consensus (meaning; the generalized, centralized, and codified co-consensae of the MBTR staff) to date:

1994 Monte Bello (375ml)

The astonishing thing about the 1994 is that, despite the age of the wine (14 years in the bottle!) and the bottle format (faster maturation in the smaller format), it’s actually still showing quite young; almost adolescent even. It’s very structure forward, with firm tannins and bright acidity front and center. The nose is youthfully funky, compressed, and dense, while the mouthfeel is comparatively lean and spicy; all aspects of the profile are showing quite deliciously, but the overall melodocism is still en route from discordance to harmony–this is a fascinating and tasty peek at a slow-moving, tremendously complex vintage, that is undeniably going to keep offering rewards for years to come.

1992 Monte Bello (375ml)

Of the trio, the 1992 is currently showing as the most elegant of the three; the mouthfeel is utterly silken, the acidity is brightly interwoven, the tannins are refined and subtle, and the fruit is seamlessly integrated with the structural components. By comparison, the ’92 is showing as a quieter wine, cool jazz rather than hot, zen brush & ink as opposed to abstract expressionism; the movement across the palate is gentle, graceful, gracious, and delicate. Still showing slightly to the young side, but very much beginning to approach a finessed resolution.

1991 Monte Bello (375ml)

Well, to date the 1991 is still holding fast to its top-of-the-pops reputation; there is just no getting around the fact that this is an extraordinary vintage, and to taste it at this point — 17 years in a 375ml!– is an extraordinary palate experience, a real proof-of-concept moment as regards ageability and the Monte Bello. In addition to its notable longevity, the vintage exhibits an astonishing and singular flavor profile: so dense, so compressed, so concentrated; the purity and decadence of the fruit is almost too much for the palate to bear. One can only withstand the sensually oenophilic equivalent of goosebumps for so long … A fittingly stunning coda to a gleefully stunning tasting.

Thelonious Monk!

October 10, 2010

On this day in history, one of the true heroes of my life was born; the inimitable Thelonious Sphere Monk. There is simply no sound on earth like the sound of his piano playing; no groove more perfectly, elegantly swinging; no melody more eccentrically soothing; no harmony more angularly, insightfully compelling; no music more idiosyncratically brilliant; Monk.  

  

    

“There ain’t no wrong notes on the piano.” As good a mantra for life as any.  

Listen, if you haven’t already, to Monk’s solo piano reinvention of “Between The Devil And The Deep Blue Sea.” I defy you to come away unconverted.  

Monk is, for me, the archetype of everything I adore in life. My Grandfather Gene Logan, after careers running the gamut from USC football trainer and author of texts on anatomic kinesiology, to Navy man and bluegrass musician, ended up making his money in life as a sculptor; one of his great inspirations was a quote from Francis Bacon (the 16th century English philosopher, not the painter of, among other masterpieces, Study after Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X, though the quote could certainly apply to Mr. Bacon’s work):  

Francis Bacon By Francis Bacon

  

By Francis Bacon

There is no excellent beauty that hath not some strangeness in the proportion.  

Which is the sound of Monk. It is also your lover’s face, and your child’s tummy; it is a perfectly imperfect haiku, and Bukka White performing Shake ‘Em On Down; it is a hand-harvested, wild-yeast-fermented, unfiltered, well-matured, gently and perfectly decanted bottle of wine, and it is the friends you share it with; your glorious, imperfect, strange, and wonderful friends.  

You and everything around you is imperfect, and beautiful. Drinking wine and listening to Thelonious Monk is a meditation on this, an awareness ritual of the profoundest sort.  

That oh-so-equally profound, and perhaps most spiritually intense of jazz musicians John Coltrane, once said of Monk, “When you learn one of Monk’s pieces, you can’t learn just the melody and chord symbols. You have to learn the inner voicings and rhythms exactly. Everything is so carefully related.”  

John Coltrane

 

Everything is so carefully related. The Buddhist cosmology.  

Complexity for complexity is nothing, just noise in the air. And simplicity for simplicity is just that; simple. But multi-tiered sheets of complexities upon complexities upon complexities; seamless integrated, and inter-related; am I talking Jazz? Or Wine? Or Life itself?  

And speaking of mantras, the Monk quote I probably dig the most, because it’s an instruction for anyone engaged in the creative act; musician or poet, winemaker or chef, architect or engineer, painter or photographer, any and all of us for whom an act of any kind is an exercise in creativity, to us all, Monk’s reminder:  

Everyone is influenced by everybody, but you bring it down home the way you feel it.  

Bless you Thelonious Sphere Monk, on this, the anniversary of your birth on this earth, for bringing it down home the way you felt it.  

 

 


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