Archive for August, 2010

To Louis Armstrong: Happy Belated Birthday!

August 5, 2010

I was out of the office yesterday, so I’m accordingly a day late in posting this, but I wanted to take the occasion to celebrate, with you, the birthday of the very, very, very great Louis Armstrong, who was born on August 4th, 1901!

 

The man and his music, his character, his influence, his life; these are all reasons enough to celebrate, but courtesy of our viticultural bias on this blog, I of course want to make sure we’ve a tie-in, and in this case, mine comes in somewhat funny, timely, and rather coincidental form.

I was reading a quite fine essay in the New York Times last night (from this past Sunday’s edition) over an asparagus, red pepper, mushroom, and fresh mozzarella pizza (with a glass of 2007 Carmichael, followed by the 2007 Lytton Springs), and the link popped into my head; the essay in question was sort of an extended investigation of the idea that all the various aphorisms related to the art of writing (“write what you know”, for example, which gives the essay its title) can oft be equally applied to the act of drinking — just substitute “drink” for “write”, and off you go — and it occurred to me that if one applied this same idea to some of Mr. Armstrong’s quotes, you could really come up with some doozies as regards wine. For example:

“What we play is life” becomes “What we drink is life”

“If you have to ask what jazz is, you’ll never know” becomes “If you have to ask what good wine is, you’ll never know”

 ”There is two kinds of music, the good and bad. I play the good kind” becomes “There are two kinds of wine, the good and bad. I drink the good kind.”

and “You blows who you is” becomes “You drink who you are.”

 

(You can read the full essay, by Geoff Nicholson, here.)

 

Now, if that’s not enough for you, I’ll offer up one more wine-and-Louis Armstrong connection; which comes courtesy of a story told in Louis Armstrong: An American Genius By James Lincoln Collier:

Sometimes in this house, they’d have contests, like they’d put a jug of wine in the center of the floor and cut figures around it. “Cutting figures,” that’s what it was called. They’d dance around this jug of wine, a whole lot of steps, dance as close to it as they could and still not touch it or knock it over. The man who touched it, he’d have to go out and buy another gallon, buy more wine for everybody, the musicianers too — and then there’d be more dancing.

Now that’s wine the way I love it!

I’ve written laments on this blog before about how narrow the world of wine drinking has in some ways become

(see most recently Heimoff, The Bums, The Snobs, and #WBC10  from which comes the following: “I learned to drink wine from The Beats. Wine went with wild poetry readings, and mountain meditation sessions. Wine went with trains, and camping. Wine sometimes went with nothing other than, well, wine. Just wine. And mainly, wine went with people. It was living with people, in a memorable way. Being where you were, and demanding nothing less that an exhilarating devotion to the moment …”)

and I think this story is just an exquisitely perfect expression of that “other” world of wine …

Anyhow, that’s all, Happy Birthday Mr. Louis Armstrong, and thank you for everything. I’m going to enjoy my 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Cab, and listen to you blow and sing St. James Infirmary, just the way it ought to be … and I might just dance a bit.

The Return Of Monte Bello Fog

August 4, 2010

There are any number of signals the mountain gives that tell me the growing season is not only in full swing, but that harvest is soon approaching.

Some of these signals are vineyard specific; veraison, for example (the point at which the grapes change color, and accelerated ripening commences). We’re starting to see it in Sonoma, and it should be right around the corner here at Monte Bello.

Sometimes though, the signals are more tangential; one of the more beautiful of these is the return of Monte Bello Fog.

Driving up the mountain, early on a weekend morning, there is a point along the road — one of the final hairpin turns before the winery comes into view — where you break through the fog cover, and it’s as if you’re in an airplane finally cresting the clouds. Behind you stretches a beautiful plush expanse of fluffed and rippling white so dense it’s easy to imagine one could stride right across the valley to the mountains in the east. It’s breathtaking.

Monte Bello Fog In The Morning

Almost equally striking is the change that occurs as the day progresses. Early in the day, it’s almost too much to conceive that such a lush expanse of cover could ever disappear, yet still it does, every day; the stridency of the summer sun wields its warmth with metronomic ferocity, burning away every last strand, and leaving only the heat and haze of the valley in its wake …

Monte Bello Fog: Before

Monte Bello Fog: After

1993 Monte Bello: A Revelation

August 3, 2010

I’ve a confession to make; in the course of my work here at Ridge, I am often called upon to suggest a back-vintage of Monte Bello to include in a tasting flight; perhaps for a visiting winemaker, a wine writer, a sommelier, a team of growers, a film crew. And while this is in fact one of the great pleasures of my job (because it requires that I be very familiar with a great many vintages!), it can also be a bit nerve-racking.

I feel so fortunate to be here for so many reasons; one of these is the company I get to run in. I get to spend a lot of hours, every week, in the company of a great many of my viticultural heroes; not the least of whom are Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and David Gates, they all being based here at Monte Bello. But we also receive an astonishing cavalcade of visiting wine cognoscenti, whose collective knowledge base can be humbling, intimidating, even overwhelming. Preparing tastings for such a rich bedrock of talent and knowledge can be a worrisome task.

It can be easy, accordingly, to rely on favorites of a sort, to fall into patterns. For example, I’ve been pouring the ’95 Monte Bello out of 375ml with some degree of frequency of late. It’s showing beautifully out of this format; brilliant color, loads of fruit, acidity to spare.

And here is my confession, I have not been pouring the ’93 out of 375ml. Why? Essentially, I’ve been relying on my own internal sense of its’ character, based on past tastings, feeling it to be perhaps too rustic, too earthy, dare I say too funky, for even the most unconventional of palates. Unfair? Not necessarily. It’s shown that way before. And while I’ve quite liked it this way (I do prefer a bit of funk in my wines …), my presentation nervousness has in the recent past prevented my rolling the of the oenological dice on this vintage.

So there must have been something in the air on Friday; I was feeling wild, I wanted a change, I needed to shake my tailfeathers out and wine-freak a bit. The viticultural light-bulb went off, I dove into the cellar, and out I came with the ’93 in hand.

1993 Monte Bello (375ml): A Revelation

Immediately upon disgorging the juice into decanter, it was apparent something magical was afoot; it smelled astonishing! The color was gorgeous, the aromatics both lively and decadent, I was entranced. Needless to say, the experience in the glass and on the palate delivered more of the same. Still rustic? Perhaps? Gamey? No! Barnyard? No! Earthy? A tad, but also mellifluous and delightful; an absolute revelation.

VineWatch 2010, V!

August 2, 2010

Our little vine ain’t so little anymore! Veraison still to come, but we’re now seeing lovely clusters and beautiful berries …

Vine Watch 2010, V!


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