Archive for August, 2010

ESPN, The Oakland As, True Love, & Monte Bello

August 31, 2010

From one of our great friends at the Astoria Wine Group comes proof yet again that, fundamentally, Monte Bello causes true love.

Monte Bello; it’s the Viticultural Make-A-Wish Foundation, the Genie in the Bottle, The Magic Lamp; not so much Kevin Costner’s Field of Dreams (Build it and they will come!), but Paul Draper’s Vineyard of Dreams (Make it, and they will drink it!) It’s like that.

Anyhow, the story goes like this; our friend was watching ESPN2, and caught a show called First Take. They were running a story on an Oakland A’s Bat-Boy, who got to go on a date with a girl he saw up in the stands. They went to the very fine La Fondue, just down the road from us in Los Gatos. When the program cut to images of what they’d shared for their romantic dinner date, guess what the wine was???

Monte Bello!!!

The moral of this story, is that you haven’t found your true love yet in this life, you need to be drinking more Monte Bello. And if you are fortunate enough to have found that very special someone? Drink Monte Bello with them, every night! Or they’ll leave you for the first newcomer through the door … Ok, I was kidding about that last part. But the truth of the matter is, Einstein’s wasn’t the greatest formula after all. It’s not this:

E=mc2

It’s this:

Monte Bello = Love.

Light On Lytton!

August 30, 2010

For this week’s issue of our Light on Lytton series, we’re quite literally going to show you … the Light at Lytton!

The following is a picture that was taken by Jamie Bakas, who happens to be married to Rick Bakas, who happens to be the social media heavyweight at St. Supery; both were at Lytton Springs Saturday night for our TasteLive/TweetUp,  and she snapped it in between sips of our new Fall Release zinfandels. If you follow her tweets (and you should! @jaimiebakas), you’ll see that while she seemed to love the new 2008 Pagani Ranch best, she was in her “happy place” when she tasted the 2007 Monte Bello, a little unannounced treat that Sandy pulled out!

If you’d like to see what others had to say about the tasting, just use your favorite Twitter ap — I prefer TweetDeck – and search #ridgewines, and you’ll see a great stream of thoughts and observations by Rick and Jamie, Meg Houston Maker (makerstable.com), Lenn Thompson (lenndevours.com/newyorkcorkreport.com), Carrie Becker (thechicagoist.com), Amy Cleary (winebookgirl.com), and more!

Anyhow, now for a little Light on Lytton:

(c) jamie bakas

The MBTR Brings You

August 29, 2010

MBTR: The Monte Bello Tasting Room. Doing a whole lot of this:

 

 

So that you can do this:

 

Monte Bello to coat the California Coastline?

August 27, 2010

Ok, I admit it, that’s a pretty sensationalist and misleading headline; Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvingon isn’t actually going to coast the coast. Though if it did, you can bet I’d be on the beach with a bucket!

Oddly enough though, there is some truth in the heading; did you know there is a ship named the Montebello laying on the bottom of the ocean, four miles of the coast near Cambria? And that it’s STILL carrying 3.5 million gallons of oil?

You can read all about it here:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/08/27/MN5L1F24VA.DTL

Nero Wolfe, Lytton Springs, and the search for the Perfect Omelet

August 26, 2010

When it comes both to cooking, and guilty-pleasure in-bed reading, I have to confess to being an absolute mendicant at the altar of Rex Stout and his immortal creation Nero Wolfe.

A recent reissue of the entire catalog of Nero Wolfe mysteries offers a particularly delightful set of additions for the Stout-o-philes amongst us; each book closes with some tidbit of memorabilia from the Wolfe files, running the gamut from personal letters to Italian-issue book covers from World War II.

So, I was recently re-reading Where There’s A Will (the photo below is a copy of the original 1941 cover!)

and in the back of this particular edition, in addition to the cover shot above, is a typewritten recipe for how to make a proper omelet. It’s Rex Stout’s recipe of course, but essentially, this means it is also Wolfe’s. I learned how to make an omelet properly the first time I read this, and I have never wavered from the fundamentals since. With an opening line like “It is better to make two small omelets than a large one …” how could one go wrong!

Anyhow, in a previous post I shared some tasting notes on the very excellent 2002 Lytton Springs, and with 2/3 of a bottle still available, I took it home to share with the missus. I had already eaten, so was content with just wine, but we needed a pairing for her (this is how cooking usually works in my house; we decide what to eat based on what wine is available!). We collaborated conceptually, and then I went to work; a pesto omelet on a bed of pan-fried spinach with garlic the result. To properly make the omelet, I as always consulted Nero Wolfe.

Delicious! And the omelet was pretty good too! Maybe not Nero Wolfe good, but good nonetheless!

Vine Watch 2010: Veraison!

August 24, 2010

Oh, I am just so proud!!!

Veraison!

Light On Lytton: Shining A Light On Lytton Springs!

August 23, 2010

Greetings all!

I am very happy to announce the debut of a new series here on our blog: Light On Lytton! Each week, we’re going to devote one day’s post to news from our sibling to the north, Lytton Springs! That’s right, each week, we’ll be shining a Light On Lytton, to see just what those Sonomans are getting up to.

So, we begin, appropriately enough, with a look at a bottle of Lytton Springs, and tasting notes as compiled by the Lytton Springs staff who very recently tasted this offering. The wine in question is the 2002 Lytton Springs, and the staff tasted this just last week; a rather rare and special treat, given that this tremendous vintage is scarcely available any longer; Sandy Johnson, Tasting Room Manager at Lytton Springs, only has about 6 cases left, and at $50/btl. they’ve been going fast!

2002 Lytton Springs, at Lytton Springs!

So, I have to confess that, after reading Sandy’s synopsis of the Lytton Springs staff’s thoughts, my interest was rather piqued, so I pulled a sample from the cellar here at Monte Bello, and decided to taste along, as it were. So in the notes below, I’ve added a few thoughts of my own (my notes are the italicized lines in parentheses).

And now, on to the tasting notes!

2002 Lytton Springs, ready to taste!

Dark brooding aromas of  allspice, clove, lavender and sage …

(Totally agree, especially on the brooding, the clove, and the lavender. For me, I found the herbaceousness to be less like sage, and more almost pistachio-like in character; a hint of greenish herbality, but with a nutty quality … I did also find the florality in the aromatics to be slightly sweet in character, perhaps closer to lilac than lavender? Hard to say, there are certainly hints of both …)

On the palate, concentrated black fruit, plum, mission fig, and blackberry. .

(Concentration is definitely the key word here, this is a powerful wine that flexes tremendously muscular compression; strength of a boxer, finesse of a dancer …Definitely some black fruit, and the plum is quite present; not sure I’m getting the figginess per se; I don’t quite see that particular combination of sweetness and earth as being overtly noticeable here, though there is certainly something close; for me, it’s something more akin to a cocoa powder sensation; some nice tanginess, a touch of sweetness, a little rusticity, etc. Overall though, I totally agree with concentration, black fruit, plum, and blackberry …)

Long lingering finish, completed by silky tannins. Beautiful now, can last another 2 or 3 years.

(Agreed! The finish is astounding, and the tannins are just absolutely luxuriant. This can certainly go another 2-3 years – Paul Draper gave 2013 as his estimation of peak pourability, which jibes well with the LSers perspective – though based on how it’s showing today, I think it may have even more in it than that …)

And that’s this week’s Light On Lytton! Cheers to Lytton Springs!

Zinfandel: The Art of the Blend!

August 21, 2010

If you’re anywhere in the area of either our tasting rooms today, and if you have any interest in Zinfandel, I think we may have a little something special on offer for you. It’s the third edition of our Summer Wine Series for 2010, and for today’s theme, we’ve selected “Zinfandel: The Art of the Blend.” And what we’ve put together for a tasting flight, is, I think, a rather uniquely educational opportunity to experience the full range of what this oft-misunderstood varietal truly has to give.

What we’ve done is put four wines together, and staged them as a progression of blending varietal expressions; meaning, the first wine is solo-varietal zinfandel, the next has one varietal in the blend, the next two, and the next three. The specific wines we’ve selected are as follows:

2008 Paso Robles
—Zinfandel—

Vines ripened uniformly, and we harvested all three parcels within a week—a record.  Primary fermentation was carried out by natural yeasts. Juice was pumped over the cap twice daily until pressing—day eight, on average. Uninoculated secondary fermentation took forty days. The finished lots were blind-tasted for assemblage; for once, all could be included. Exotic barrel spices complement the vineyard’s ripe bramble fruit, and this year’s intense color is striking. Integrated and enjoyable now, this excellent vintage will develop over the next five to seven years. EB (8/09)

2008 Ponzo
—Zinfandel & Petite Sirah—

Cool spring weather delayed budbreak, but flowering and fruit set were complete by early June, and a warm summer ripened the grapes fully by early September. The grapes all fermented on their natural yeasts for twelve days, on average. After natural malolactic, we racked the new wine to american oak barrels, fifteen percent of which were new. Rich and full-bodied, the 2008 Ponzo is nonetheless elegant—a zinfandel to be enjoyed over the next five to seven years.  JO (11/09)

 

2007 Lytton Springs

—Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, & Carignane—

After a dry winter and spring, budbreak came early. A warm August ripened the fruit earlier than expected, and we harvested the thirty-four parcels as flavors developed fully, fermenting each separately on its natural yeasts. Aged for fifteen months in air-dried american oak, this classic Lytton Springs is remarkable for its richness, balance, and elegant texture. It will soften and gain complexity over the next ten years. JO (11/08)

2008 Geyserville
—Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, & Mataro—

In tank, color and tannin extraction was unusually rapid, as were uninoculated primary fermentations. We reduced pump-overs and pressed early, avoiding harsher tannins. Zinfandel and carignane showed exceptional quality, and form the core of the blend. (Wines from the petite sirah parcels were too tannic; the six percent included comes from a field-blend.)  Twenty percent new oak adds exotic spice. Superb concentration and firm acid will allow this fine zinfandel to develop over the next ten to fifteen years. EB (11/09)

And if that wasn’t enough, we’ve capping this tasting with a sample of our 2006 Monte Bello, and our 2007 Geyserville Essence!

2006 Monte Bello

Summer was unusually warm; picking began on September 18, ahead of schedule. Though a cool October slowed ripening, all parcels were harvested within five weeks, and natural yeasts started the primary within three days. Uninoculated secondary began in tank; eighty percent of the thirty-six lots were racked to barrel for completion. Thirteen were selected for the first assemblage in late January. Additions of petit verdot and cabernet franc contributed depth. Balanced and elegant now, this exceptional vintage has the structure to carry it for twenty-five years or more. EB (3/08)

2007 Geyserville Essence

We made our first Zinfandel Essence from Geyserville in 1966. To produce an essence, the vines must remain vigorous late into the season, with green leaves for photosynthesis. To intensify color and concentrate sugar, the grapes were left on the vine for three additional weeks; they co-fermented on natural yeasts. To our delight, the initial Brix reading was beyond the hydrometer’s ability to measure. It took five days for the yeast to begin fermentation, another five days to stop naturally—fully stable. The wine aged in air-dried american oak barrels; clarity was achieved through careful racking. Opulent and full-flavored, the 2007 Essence can be enjoyed now and over the next twenty years. EB (9/08)

So, if you can, come join us!

Food & Wine Pairing

August 20, 2010

I have had, on a number of occasions of late, the rather exquisite opportunity to experiment with, and subsequently present, taste, and enjoy, Ridge wines in a variety of food pairing constructs, and I thought I’d share some of the pairings I was particularly fond of.

To begin, my absolute favorite pairing for our chardonnays in general, and the 2006 Monte Bello Chardonnay in particular …

… is the one and only Haig’s Hummus.

If you’re a reader of this blog, then you’ve certainly heard me wax beautific about Haig’s before, and if you’ve tasted wines with me in a wine and food pairing situation, then you’ve probably heard some variation on my feelings for this hummus; that either it, or all other hummus, needs  a name change, because Haig’s is simply so much better that it is accordingly a linguistic disservice to both to link the two.

Moving on from Chardonnay, I usually like to pour one of our single-vineyard zinfandels, and preferably, one of the more elegant, subtle, and less weightier offerings; a zinfandel that expresses herb, spice, and acidity over muscularity of structure and opulence of fruit. The 2008 Geserville is just such a wine …

 

… and I recently took a bit of a gamble, and paired this with bruschetta topped with a dollop of chevre, and served with crostini …

 

I say “gamble,” by the way, because I actually  find fresh tomato dishes somewhat challenging to pair with red wines (you can see more on this here), but in this case, the pairing was delicious!

Moving on, were we to consider this a proper tasting flight, I would probably go with another zinfandel, something with a tad more muscularity, and perhaps a wine that introduces a touch of rusticity, earthiness, even shades of umami savoriness. One particular pairing caught my palate recently, the 2007 Carmichael Zinfandel (also Alexander Valley in origin, but a very limited-production, winery-only offering) paired with a delicious spread composed primarily of eggplant, garlic, and fefferoni peppers …

 

I quite like the combination of ingredients in this dish; the eggplant adds just a hint of smokiness, without being oppressive, the garlic brings a bit of bite, while the peppers add a nice blend of sweetness & spice; perfect with an Alexander Valley zin!

From here I would traditionally make a turn towards the Rhone; I’ve been pouring our 2008 Buchignani Ranch Carginane in the #4 spot quite often lately, and a particularly favorite pairing of mine for this wine is chevre topped with a sprinkle of dried basil and a drizzle of olive oil …

 

… I find that the acidity of the Carignane is a nice counter-balance to the fatter, fleshier side of the chevre’s flavor profile (enhanced by the olive oil), while the herb & spice component of the wine blends nicely with the chevre’s tanginess, and the dried basil draws just a touch of rusticity from the wine.

In the tasting room, I find I am often deploying the Buchignani Carignane as a set-up for the 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Cabernet/Merlot; something about these two wines in this order seems to really serve both well.

So, as to a food pairing, one of my favorite pairings for our Cabs is one of our truly favorite cheeses around here, Cypress Grove’s Humboldt Fog, a goat’s milk cheese with a washed rind and an ash thread …

 

This is truly a magic pairing; funky, fruitful, lascivious and luscious!

The #6 spot in a 6-wine flight invariably goes to something with some huskiness, muscle, and depth, and in this case, I’m going to mention another of my favorite pairings, our 2004 Lytton Estate Syrah (co-fermented with viognier, and winery-blended with two small blocks of old-vine grenache), with an olive tapenade …

 

This pairing is all about dark, deep, rustic, earthy, fleshy flavors, and a great way to end a flight crafted to achieve a trajectorial experience in which the movement from lighter to heartier flavors is the key architectural determinant.

So there you go, a small sampling of some of my favorite recent pairings. How about you? Any particular pairings for Ridge wines that you’re particularly fond of? I’d love to hear about them!

A Four-Decade Monte Bello Vertical: Tasting Notes!

August 16, 2010

MB Vertical, Post Tasting!

 

2007 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Deep purple belly in the bowl, with a gorgeous magenta limn … aromatics rich with blueberry, lavender, anise, and fennel, populating an architecture built with great crushed rock and wet-stone minerality … loads of herb & spice front-palate, with hints of pepper, clove, and blackberry-seed tannin … ridiculously full mouthfeel, with almost kinky-supple tannins spreading to every part of the palate … acidity is both vibrant and supple … while the finish is still somewhat short on the palate, the ostensibly empty bowl of the glass, 15 minutes down the line, is still humming a blueberry-and-lavender tune …

2006 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Interwoven ribbons of garnet, magenta, and plum make up the tapestry of hue in the bowl, halo’d by a rich ruby limn; gracefully premeditated legs bespeaking graciousness and depth run elegantly down the glass … aromatics are redolent of plum, currant, quince, and blackberry preserves, with hints of black peppercorn and charrings from the grill … the mouthfeel is round, resolving, and rich without obtuse girth; secondary and tertiary herbatics (herb and spice profiles) dominate, with an emphasis on the autumnal C-triumverate of clove, coriander, and cinnamon … lots of dried fruit notes as well, and a tad leathery (or perhaps suede-y?), with a heavy dose of lip-to-teeth tannins that show a decidedly adhesive intensity, as opposed to, say, a more powdery astringency; less saliva-inducing, and more culinarily companionable …

1995 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Tremendously rich, ripe, meaty, and bloody on the nose (but not gamey!); with a spectrum running from pate to pot roast; hearty and hale, but not at all aged; it’s still only showing the very early stages of secondary maturation characteristics … the color in the bowl is almost black it’s so concentrated; so deep, with no degradation of color at the limn at all; rather, an elegant, pale ruby only barely pokes through … a chandelier’s worth of silky rivulets ring the inside of the bowl; visual elegance incarnate … On the palate, resolution is divine; supple acidity, elegant tannin, all in perfect balance; acidity bright at the first, then tempering, tannins tempered at first, then lingering … at 15 years, this is a promising young athlete, with intellectual maturity beyond its years, physical prowess to die for, and only experience required to complete the conceptual circle …

1984 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Slight bricking in the belly, and some salmon/crimson hues in the limn; elegant viscosity and streamlined legs … aromatics definitely moving towards the dry fruit realm (currant, raisin, plum), all ensconced in a delicious bed of yeast and sugar; almost pannetone-like … remarkably sweet, buoyant fruit on the palate, tremendously relevant and vital acidity, and well-tempered tannins fully integrated … sweetness of the fruit on the finish is just remarkable, possibly decadent, assuredly graceful …

1978 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Deeply rusty and rustic bowl hues; a blackened magenta of sorts, with an amber-y, oolong-tea-ishly-hued limn … wood and bark bracket the aromatics, with hints of dried fruit, exotic cardamom, and a touch of fennel & graphite; there is even a dose of jerked umaminess, and a trace of cured & spiced pepperoni … As to the mouthfeel; plush, supple, seamless, and truly unbelievable! So elegant, so lush, so layered, so silken; not so much the experience of walking on air, but rather, air walking on you …


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