Archive for September, 2009

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Did Gary Vaynerchuk compare Ridge Geyserville to Big League Chew?

September 10, 2009

Q:

Did Gary Vaynerchuk just compare Ridge Geyserville to Big League Chew?

 

A:

Not exactly, but for what I imagine might be the first time ever, Big League Chew and Nerds both came up while discussing the 2006 Ridge Geyserville! The conversationalists in question were one Gary Vaynerchuk and one Jancis Robinson, and the setting was Wine Library TV. To read a lovely article about all the above, please follow this link  to Eric Asimov’s post (from this past Tuesday) on his wonderful New York Times-based blog The Pour. To see the original Wine Library TV episode where this all takes place, please click here.

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Posted in Press Reviews, Viticultural Salmagundi, Wine Blogs, Wine Tales, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

1996 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello: Tasting Notes

September 10, 2009

I had the rather unexpected pleasure of tasting the 1996 Monte Bello today, and thought I’d post some quick thoughts; has anyone out there tasted this vintage recently? Let me know! Also, should you wish to cross-reference and do a little compare/contrast, I tasted this wine out of a 375 ml bottle back in late June, and posted my notes here …

 

1996 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello (750 ml)

 

Appearance:

Co-mingled hues of rich garnet and black cherry, limned by a bright Montmerency halo — medium-weight legs moving steadily and affixedly down the bowl-sides …

 

Aromatics:

Tender yeast-and-dough notes reminiscent of Sunday morning baked goods (perhaps a currant scone?), some ever-so-slightly-sweet, every-so-slightly-ripe plum preserves, a hint of Kirschwasser, the sanctifying nuttiness of fig paste, the dark herbality of licorice, all wrapped in a gentle duvet of soft vanilla …

 

Front-Palate:

Wryly precocious acidity on all points front-and-center; buoyant, playful, exciting!

 

Mid-Palate:

Absolutely mouth-watering tannins running parallel on either side of the tongue, leaving twin wakes of salivary expectation …

 

Finish:

Almost preposterously warm, long, and comforting; a big-bowl-glass contribution to late nights in the study with leather-bound books and wisps of pipe tobacco smoke …

 

Summary:

A rather joyous combination of youthful impertinence and regal gravitas; nearing contemporary first-wave approachability, but still years away from full blossom … James Laube, writing in Wine Spectator back in 2001 rated this wine a 96 point offering (96 in ’96!), do I hear 109 points?

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Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello, Tasting Notes | 2 Comments »

Questions Of Essence

September 3, 2009

My recent post on Essence wines elicited a few rather specific queries, so I thought I’d just do a quick post to try and speak to them; in all cases, it was necessary that I speak to Paul Draper, so although I’ll certainly be paraphrasing here, the core of the information I’ll be offering does indeed originate with “the source” …

The first question raised had to do with a 1979 Essence that one reader/commenter wasn’t certain fit a portion of Paul’s definition of what makes an Essence an Essence (“The wine was vinified from grapes that were intentionally left to hang on the vine”); the reader/commentor indicated he thought that the 1979 Essence was comprised of fruit that had over-ripened “by mistake.”

79CES1-L

In speaking with Paul about this, I think it’s safe to say there is a kernel of truth in this contention. Due to a confluence of somewhat unexpected factors in the vineyard over the previous two vintages, primarily climatic in nature, the condition of the vineyard in 1979 was such that a substantial amount of fruit was dropped early, making for a very small crop that ripened much earlier than expected. Accordingly, Ridge was rather “caught off guard” in that, by the time sugar sampling commenced, the remaining fruit has ripened far more rapidly than expected. While there was still an even smaller portion of fruit that was ostensibly “normal,” the decision was made to declassify the Monte Bello that year (releasing the majority of the juice under the Santa Cruz designation), and instead work with what Mother Nature had unexpectedly delivered; ideal ripening conditions for an Essence. So while it’s essentially true to say that the over-ripening was not expected, planned for, or even necessarily desired, at the same time, the decision to make an Essence in 1979 was still very much in keeping with the general philosophies deployed by Ridge as regards vineyard management; namely, the vineyard determines what the producer will do, not the other way around. To summarize, the 1979 Essence was sort of both mistake and inevitability.

Which leads me to my next answer, which has to do with the question of just how Ridge selects a vineyard for Essence production. Basically, as things stand now, the only properties Ridge will consider for the production of an Essence are the Geyserville and Lytton Springs properties, the reason being that direct influence on, and oversight over, a vineyard is fully necessary to determine whether or not the stars have aligned in such a way as to make an Essence a possible; meaning essentially, that because Ridge will not FORCE the creation of an Essenceper se, rather, we will only RECEIVE it should one essentially appear (via a suitable and appropriate confluence of growing conditions), it is vital that Ridge be able to closely monitor development in the vineyard at all times, watching for that elusive synchronicity that enables the promise of an Essence to emerge.

So, regarding the question of whether or not a Petite Sirah Essence is on the horizon, it’s accordingly quite difficult to say. Paul is a firm believer that Zinfandel is absolutely a brilliant varietal for what he deems to be a “naturally produced” red dessert wine (as opposed to dessert wines that require some form of “intervention”, i.e. alcohol or sugar being added in the winery), but he does not rule out the possibility of a Petite Sirah Essence either; I would say the difference is that, with every vintage, Paul hopes to see conditions emerge that will make a Zinfandel Essence possible, while with Petite Sirah, he’s not looking for it per se, but he would make one if conditions were right.

I hope this serves to answer the queries that were posed, but please feel free to keep the questions coming! And I thank you for your engagement!

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello, Petite Sirah, Varietals & Blends, Vineyards and Oenology, Winemaking, Zinfandel | 2 Comments »

New Grape Sorting System At Monte Bello! (Photos included!)

September 3, 2009

Things have been very exciting up here at the Monte Bello winery; just days before harvest is due to commence, the finishing touches on a ten-year labor of love are being applied.

MB_GrapeSorter_IV

Eric Baugher, our VP of winemaking here at Monte Bello, has been working around the clock to help bring this immense project to fruition, as have an astonishingly devoted cadre of dedicated workers.

MBGrapeSorter_I

Eric has written the following about the new Grape Sorting system:

Starting with the 2009 vintage, we will inaugurate a new grape-sorting system at our Monte Bello winery. We launched the renovation this last June, after ten years in development, thousands of research and engineering hours, and several revisions along the way. Our original plan was to install a conveyor belt receiver to gently deliver grape clusters directly to the destemmer. That plan would have allowed for additional sorting as the fruit arrived. The new design will do that, but goes further, with post-destemming sorting. As grapes and stems are separated and pass through the open rollers, the whole berries will travel across a series of conveyors, shaker tables, and an automated sorter. Stem fragments, called “jacks”, green shot berries, and sun-damaged grapes will be removed from the stream of fruit on its way to the fermentor. This new facility and equipment will further implement our philosophy of gentle handling.

MBGrapeSorter_II

 

One of the things that I am particularly impressed with is the extent to which Ridge is willing to slow down for the sake of quality, and efficiency. Again, from Eric:

Although the new equipment operates at a slower rate than the machinery it replaces, quality gain makes the project worthwhile. Efficiency and quality outcome are not mutually exclusive; the new machinery and special LED lighting will consume half as much energy as the previous equipment.

MB_GrapeSorter_III

Thanks to the efforts of one Sean Yamamoto (our Marketing and Sales Coordinator, and the taker of these wonderful photographs!), you can now keep tabs on how this new and exciting project is developing. To read more about Eric’s thoughts, and to see more photos, please click here.

Posted in Monte Bello, Vineyards and Oenology, Winemaking | Leave a Comment »

Fall Release Weekend!

September 2, 2009

This coming weekend is one of my favorite weekends of the year! Why? Because it’s Fall Release Weekend, which means, among other things, the arrival of the new Monte Bello! And this year we’ve got a double dose of Monte Bello, because we’re releasing a Monte Bello Chardonnay as well!

We’re also releasing the new 2007 Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch, and York Creek Zinfandels, and we’ll be pouring all five of these wines this weekend! If you’re going to be anywhere near either our Monte Bello or Lytton Springs tasting rooms this weekend, this is a flight you don’t want to miss! For full details, please click here for Monte Bello, and here for Lytton Springs.

And here’s a quick tip, be on the lookout for news about The Last Chance Chalkboard! It’ll be the straight dope, the inside scoop, the 411, the buzz, the skinny, the story morning glory …

In the meantime, here are some quick winemaker notes on the new releases:

2006 Chardonnay Monte Bello

Grapes were whole-cluster pressed, and the juice racked to barrel. Natural primary lasted four months; natural secondary took only three. In August 2007, we chose four exceptional parcels, which were racked, assembled, and returned to barrel. At eighteen months the wine cleared, and was bottled without filtration. This fine chardonnay will benefit from a year or two in bottle, and develop fully over another six or seven. EB (2/08)
2007 Lytton Springs

After a dry winter and spring, budbreak came early. Despite the lack of spring rain, temperate summer weather mitigated vine stress and created ideal ripening conditions. A warm August ripened the fruit earlier than expected, and we harvested the thirty-four parcels as flavors developed fully, fermenting each separately on its natural yeasts. We chose twenty-one lots for this year’s wine. Aged for fifteen months in air-dried american oak, this classic Lytton Springs is remarkable for its richness, balance, and elegant texture. It will soften and gain complexity over the next ten years. JO (11/08)
2007 Pagani Ranch

Fully-crushed fruit fermented on its natural yeasts in eight small, open-top tanks. As juice circulated through the skins, rich color and firm tannin extracted quickly. We pressed early, on day five, avoiding an excessively tannic structure. When uninoculated malolactic fermentation finished in late November, the lots were combined and racked to air-dried american oak barrels. This opulent Pagani exemplifies the complexity that can be drawn from old field-blend vines. Enjoyable now, it will develop fully over the next ten years. EB (1/09)


2007 York Creek

For the 2nd year in a row, the vines produced a full crop, which slowed ripening, and pushed harvest into October. We fermented each of the seven parcels separately, on their natural yeasts. Re-tasting after assemblage, we decided to include a significant amount of petite sirah for greater complexity and firmer structure. The wine was then racked to american oak barrels for twelve months of aging. This York Creek, though rich and structured, is one of the most supple and elegant wines we have made from the vineyard. Enjoyable now, it will continue to develop over the next six to eight years. JO (8/08)

2006 Monte Bello

Winter was wet and cold through April, but May’s warm weather let the vines set a full crop. Summer was unusually warm; picking began on September 18, ahead of schedule. Though a cool October slowed ripening, all parcels were harvested within five weeks, and natural yeasts started the primary within three days. Uninoculated secondary began in tank; eighty percent of the thirty-six lots were racked to barrel for completion. Thirteen were selected for the first assemblage in late January. Additions of petit verdot and cabernet franc contributed depth. Balanced and elegant now, this exceptional vintage has the structure to carry it for twenty-five years or more. EB (3/08)

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Posted in Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Events & Photographs, Lytton, Merlot, Monte Bello, Petit Verdot, Tasting Flights, Tasting Notes, Tasting Rooms, Varietals & Blends, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

The Official RIDGE-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire #5!

September 2, 2009

Greetings, and welcome to our own homespun 20 Questions Questionnaire Affair! I have to say, I am particularly excited about this episode, because we’re going to be taking a little visit up to Lytton Springs, to check in with Stephanie Tower, a most esteemed member of the Lytton Springs Tasting Room staff. Given that I work at Monte Bello, I get very little opportunity to spend time with the Lytton Springers, so this is a real treat for me (and I hope for you as well!). My first read of Stephanie’s answers to our questions was perfectly enthralling, and each subsequent read has remained so as well; she was a wonderful way of approaching a query, and a fascinating and singular life history to bring to bear, and I am extremely happy to offer some perspective from Lytton Springs, and from Stephanie Tower; enjoy!

The Official Ridge-ite 20 Questions Questionnaire

1. Can you briefly describe the first time you remember “consciously” drinking a bottle of wine (meaning, you were aware of what you were tasting, and to what extent you were enjoying it)?

I was in the Army, stationed in Louisiana, which explains the answer to this question; It was a Kendall Jackson Syrah.

2. Who first “turned you on” to drinking good wine?

I grew up in Sonoma County, so I think that there might have been wine in my baby bottle. More seriously, my mom.

3. Do you remember the first time you tried a wine from Ridge? (What was it, where did you try it, etc.)

I had never had a Ridge wine prior to being employed here.

4. When did you first realize you had an interest in wine that went beyond that of the “casual” consumer?

When I took a week off from work and school to volunteer for the SF Chronicle wine judging competition; to be paid in wine.

5. What was your first job “in the industry?”

Volunteering at Raymond Burr on event weekends.

6. When did you first join Ridge, and what led you here?

Two years ago May. I needed a job.

7. If you had to pick, is there one Ridge wine that you prefer above all others?

Monte Bello, Duh! Also a huge Geyserville fan.

8. Do you have a favorite food and wine pairing?

Carmichael and a bubble bath.

9. If you could have any Ridge wine, served with any meal, cooked by any chef, with any companion, anywhere in the world, what would you select?

Camping in Yosemite, with my husband, grilling tri tip and a 1994 Monte Bello.

10. Is there a common “myth” or “belief” or supposed “truism” in the world of wine that you’d like to take the opportunity to debunk? (white wines only with fish, wine is made in the winery, alcohol levels in California are too high, the 100-pt wine rating scale is obsolete, etc.)

(no answer)

11. Outside of California, what is your wine region of choice?

Valpolicella (Northern Italy)

12. When you’re not drinking wine, what is your beverage of choice?

Martini.

13. If you could have any other job in the food/wine industry then the one you have now, what would it be?

I like my job.

14. Wine & Cheese, or Wine & Chocolate?

Cheese.

15. What has been the best wine experience to date in your life? (Where were you, who were you with, what did you drink, etc.)

1999 Raymond Burr Cab, Charcuterie in Healdsburg with husband. We had duck and escargot.

16. What’s the funniest thing you’ve ever seen happen in a wine tasting room?

Customer pouring their own wine.

“Is there any rabbit in this Paella? Cause I don’t eat Bambi.”

Dog peeing on tasting room floor and owner leaving without cleaning it up or saying anything. Another customer who saw this happen, felt bad, and wanted to help me clean it up.

17. What do you consider to be the five most important items in your fridge right now?

Chris’s home brew, ketchup, extra sharp cheddar cheese.

18. If you could offer one piece of advice to someone who is interested in getting a job in the wine industry, what would it be?

People are crazy anyway, give them a little wine and they are absolutely nutz!

19. How do you feel about the “aroma wheel”?

It is like training wheels, helpful when you are just starting out, but not needed after you develop your own descriptors.

20. What’s the desktop photo on your computer?

My husband and I at dinner, on honeymoon in Thailand before the full moon party. I ordered fish and chips and was brought the entire fish, eyeballs and all.

Thanks Stephanie!

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Posted in RIDGE Staff | Leave a Comment »

The Last Chance Chalkboard!

September 2, 2009

The Last Chance Chalkboard. What is it?

Here’s a little language from our website:

“…This will be a unique opportunity to taste and purchase special older vintage and end-of-vintage wines from the Ridge cellar … Offerings will vary at each location and bottle purchase limits will apply. Please try to arrive early for the best selections, as availability will be very limited…”

And what does that mean?

It means during the course of our Fall Release Weekend, each of our tasting rooms (Lytton Springs and Monte Bello) will be pulling some extraordinary wines from our respective cellars; to be tasted, then purchased, ’til there ain’t no more left! We’ll go one wine at a time, and when all remaining bottles of the current offering have been purchased, we’ll move on to the next wine.

Here’s a quick look at some of the  elusive acquisitions you might snare at the Lytton Springs Tasting Room:

2000 Lytton Springs (only 1 case left; what a vintage!)

2003 Geyserville (just 3 cases on hand!)

1999 Buchignani Zinfandel (only 1 case left of this brilliant old-vine zin!)

2005 Lytton Springs (the last magnums!)

1999 Lytton Estate Grenache (just over 2 cases left!)

1977 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (1977! Need we say more?)

And here’s a sampling of some of the rarities you might be able to acquire at the Monte Bello Tasting Room:

2001 Lytton Estate Syrah (less than 3 cases left!)

2003 Pagani Ranch (less than 1 case left!)

2005 Santa Cruz Chardonnay (#2 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year!)

1977 York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (see above!)

2005 Syrah/Grenache (less than 3 cases left!)

1992 Whitten Ranch Carignane (16-year Sonoma Carignane! It doesn’t get rarer than this!)

If you’ll be near Monte Bello or Lytton Springs this weekend, then please come join us in celebarating the new Fall Releases, and prepare thyself for the magic that will be The Last Chance Chalkboard!

Posted in Carignane, Chardonnay, Events & Photographs, Grenache, History, Lytton, Monte Bello, Ridge Memorabilia, Syrah, Tasting Rooms, Varietals & Blends, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

Natural Winemaking -or- Got The Natural Blues? Drink The Natural Reds! -or- The Chronicle Chronicles A Chronicle Of Natural Wines!

September 1, 2009

Jon Bonné wrote an excellent piece in the San Francisco Chronicle this past Sunday in which he discusses “natural” winemaking. It’s a fascinating topic, and of course a topic of great interest to those of us here at Ridge (Paul Draper in fact gets name-checked in the article), given that Ridge has long been at the forefront of advocation for more “natural” processes as regards making wine.

I actually missed the article when it came out, but Paul brought it  up during our Monday morning meeting; he was particularly impressed with the writer for expressly acknowledging the winemaking side of the equation; so much attention gets paid to vineyard methodologies as regards organic farming, biodynamism, etc., that it was very heartening to see wineries being looked at as well.

In a rather strange confluence of occurrences, Paul happened to mention the matter of “ingredient lists” for wine labels during this meeting, and after I returned to my computer, I found an e-mail from a customer wanting to know if we used any milk products in our wines! Knowing our winemaker Eric Baugher’s passion for the creation of just such an ingredients list, I passed the e-mail on, and he immediately noted it as being a perfect example of why such labeling is so important.

And by the way, no, no milk products are used!

Any thoughts on the matter of “natural” winemaking or the possibility of establishing new labeling standards (i.e. an ingredients list) for wines? Let me know!

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Posted in Press Reviews, Vineyards and Oenology | Leave a Comment »

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