Archive for August 31st, 2009

1994 Geyserville: Tasting Notes (and a new web-only offer!)

August 31, 2009

Just a quick note to let you know, in case you haven’t checked in on our website recently, that there is a brilliant “From Our Reserves” web-only offer on the 1994 Geyserville that’s just gone live! (You can find the info by clicking here).

 

I had the opportunity to taste this Vintage from the Vaults fairly recently, so I thought I’d post some tasting notes, in case you were on the fence about considering this wine:

1994 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville

Notable for having the least alcohol of these first three vintages (I tasted this wine alongside 1992 and 1993 vintages), yet showing comparatively slightly more heat, or should I say warmth, essentially in the form of a long, warm, chest-filling finish. Not obstreperously so, not by any means, and I think I probably wouldn’t have noted it at all, save for the fact that I was tasting in context. But again, I did notice it as a structural component. As to the other architectural contributants, I would say that tannins have receded to a point of extreme subtlety, dare I say, gentleness, while the vibrancy on offer from the acidity is still youthfully prevalent; quite pleasantly so, in fact. And as is often the case with Geyserville, I find that the fruit is taking somewhat of a comparative backseat here, with the aesthetic emphasis being more on the secondary and tertiary layers of herbs, spices, and a fundamentally tempered rusticity . Overall, this makes for a slightly leaner, more elegant offering than either the ’92 or the ’93, but conversely, this vintage also begs for food pairing in perhaps a more insistent fashion than do either of the other two vintages; higher-fat-content dishes in particular will benefit from pairing with this wine: cheeses such as triple cream Bries or Goudas, cream or butter-based sauces, meats such as duck or sausage, or coconut-milk-based curries.

Tags:
Posted in Food & Wine Pairing, Tasting Notes, Varietals & Blends, Viticultural Salmagundi, Zinfandel | 1 Comment »

The Essence of Essence

August 31, 2009

There is a lot of excitement about Essence wines around these parts lately, for reasons that will soon become clear …

And in that spirit, we convened another RIDGE In The Round Session this past weekend (the wrap-up will be in a follow-up), to have a look at an Essence. Not the Essence that was causing all the excitement, mind you; that’s something else. Which will soon become clear …

But in the meantime, back to our Essence. Or should I first ask, “Hands up for who knows what an Essence is?” Well, from my office deep below the Halls of Monte Bello, from which I can scurry, gopher-like, through a myriad of tunnels that allow me to pop up anytime, anywhere, on the Monte Bello property (running the risk, of course, of being whacked in the head with a rubber mallet!), I can’t see any raised hands, so perhaps I better offer some explanation first…

And who better to explain than Paul Draper himself, who has written the following:

What classifies a wine as an ESSENCE?

  • The wine was vinified from grapes that were intentionally left to hang on the vine for an extended period of time.  During this added length of time, the grapes concentrate the flavor and sugar by on-the-vine dehydration.  Typically the sugar, when picked, exceeds 35oBrix. (Although this is impossible to measure due to the soak out effect of the dehydrated berries.)
  • The fermentation typically stops naturally at an alcohol content between 10.5 – 13% v/v with substantial residual sugar remaining (generally 6-10+% w/v).  The combination of high alcohol and residual sugar content creates an intolerable living condition for saccharomyces cerevisiae (and most other microbes, including acetobacter) due to osmotic pressure within their cell walls. This allows the wine natural stability from future spoilage while aging. 
  • Generally this natural stability allows for bottling without filtration, and therefore occasionally one may find sediment in such bottlings.
  • The typical attributes for essences are: unctuous ripeness, jam, plum, raisin, candied fruit.  The palate tends to be amazingly thick, heavy, viscous-syrup, dense exotic fruit definition, and spicy.

Sugar is a natural preservative to allow for extended bottle aging.  An essence, 30 year old, will still have amazing depth of flavors, color, and richness.  The complexity increases as the essence takes on caramel- like flavors as the primary sugar combine into more complex polysaccharides.   

After perusing this document with the rest of our esteemed staff, I made my dramatic flourish, unfurled my cape in the brisk winds, and reveled in the collective gasp as its silken black-and-crimson folds fluttered beautifully above the offering that suddenly, magically appeared in my trembling yet sure hand; an Essence!

What Essence, you might ask? This Essence, says I:

03ZES0-L

From the back label, a wee bit more information:

 

2003 Zinfandel Essence, bottled January 2005

 

After a late start in spring, intense heat in early September ripened these grapes far beyond the norm. We first picked on September 20. Then—realizing we had a dessert wine on our hands—delayed the rest of the harvest for four days to gain even greater concentration. At these high sugars, the wine took four more days to show signs of natural-yeast fermentation. We pumped over daily for color and tannin extraction; by the eighth day, despite the remaining sugar, fermentation had come to a halt. We pressed, and just before racking to barrel, included the still-richer press wine. Ten months in air-dried american oak added spice to the intense black fruit. This is a delicious young wine, which will continue to develop over the next five to eight years. EB/PD (11/04)

 

Initial sugar at harvest 35.6% By Volume
Residual sugar in the wine 10.0% By Volume

 

 

And less than 300 cases of this wine made, can you believe it!

And on that note, I need to go write the RIDGE In The Round Wrap-Up (see next post, coming to a theater near you. Soon)!

Tags:, ,
Posted in Vineyards and Oenology, Viticultural Salmagundi, Zinfandel | 5 Comments »

September Is California Wine Month!

August 31, 2009

A little message from California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger:

CaWineMonthLogo

 

 

Governor Schwarzenegger Proclaims September 2009

California Wine Month:  
Vintners and Growers Recognized for Agricultural Tradition and Contributions to the State

 

Sacramento, Calif. — Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger has declared September 2009 California Wine Month for the fifth consecutive year.  Recognizing the Golden State’s vintners and growers for their more than 200-year-old agricultural tradition, positive impact on the state and national economies, and commitment to sustainable winegrowing practices, the proclamation praises the wine community’s many contributions.

            “Our wineries attract tourism and provide countless jobs for Californians.  Many are also committed to serving their communities and promoting socially and environmentally responsible farming practices,” said Governor Schwarzenegger in the proclamation.   

            California wine generates 820,000 jobs in the U.S., including 330,000 in California.  The state’s vintners and growers, along with California’s 80,000 restaurants, have helped make the Golden State a top destination for culinary travelers from around the world, attracting nearly 21 million visitors each year to its wine regions. 

“It’s a great honor to be recognized by the Governor and to receive his support for the September California Wine Month celebration,” said Robert P. (Bobby) Koch, President and CEO of Wine Institute.  “Our industry is a major economic driver for California, contributor to the important tourism industry and the world’s leader in sustainable winegrowing.”

The Governor is also an advocate for tourism and has given his support to a partnership between Wine Institute and the California Travel & Tourism Commission (CTTC) by appearing with First Lady Maria Shriver in CTTC’s TV spot promoting California as the “Land of Wine and Food.”  The spot will broadcast this September and October across the nation and in Canada.

Visitors to California can explore the state’s 2,800 wineries which produce 90 percent of U.S. wine.  Wine Institute’s consumer web site at discovercaliforniawine.com offers a database of California winery tasting rooms and a trip planning tool that provides maps and driving directions to the wineries.  The database allows visitors to search wineries by region, variety produced and by dozens of amenities, including winery gardens, picnic grounds and green winegrowing practices.

 “California is the fourth largest wine producer in the world.  With over 60 percent of the state’s winegrowers participating in the Sustainable Winegrowing Program, it is truly a model for wine regions in other states and abroad.   The program has won Governor Schwarzenegger’s top environmental award,” said Karen Ross, President of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, whose organization is supporting California Wine Month and with Wine Institute established the Sustainable Winegrowing Program in 2002.

            The discovercaliforniawine.com web site also features special events at wineries throughout the state during California Wine Month and includes a California Wine Month poster offer, the official proclamation from the governor and an “Insider’s Guide to California Wine Country.”

Retail and restaurant establishments throughout the nation are celebrating California Wine Month and several publications will feature special coverage of the state’s wines.
Retail/Restaurant Partners Celebrating California Wine Month (CWM)

Safeway, Von’s and Pavilions stores (Newspaper ads and in-store displays in stores nationwide)

Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (Posters and shelf talkers in stores throughout the state)

Kimpton Hotels (Special wine promotions in all restaurants)

Beverages & More! (Posters in stores)

Costco (California stores) 

Roy’s Restaurants (Special wine promotions in all restaurants)

Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines (Special wine promotions on board all ships)

The Melting Pot (Special wine promotions in select restaurants)

Vino Volo (Special wine-by-the glass promotions in all airport locations)

California Wine Merchants (In-store tastings with vintners)

Gary’s Wine & Marketplace New Jersey (Three stores doing in-store tastings with vintners)

Grande Harvest Wines New York (In-store tastings with vintners)

Morrell & Company New York (In-store tastings with vintners)

Sherry-Lehman Wine & Spirits New York (In-store tastings with vintners)

Union Square Wines New York (In-store tastings with vintners)

Zachy’s New York (In-store tastings with vintners)

Cork Bar Los Angeles (Special California wine flights throughout September)

Media Partners

            Wall Street Journal — September 12

San Francisco Chronicle — August 28

Los Angeles Magazine — September edition

The Restaurant Standard (California Restaurant Association) — August/September Edition  

California Wine Month is also supported by several association partners including the California Travel and Tourism Commission, the California Olive Oil Council, the National Restaurant Association and the California Restaurant Association which recently conducted its second annual “Best California Wine List Competition.” 

Winners of the 2009 California wine list competition included The Melting Pot in the category of restaurant companies with 10 or more outlets, The Firehouse Restaurant in Sacramento in the category of restaurant companies with fewer than 10 outlets, annual sales revenue $1 million or more per location, and California Café, Los Gatos, in the category of restaurant companies with fewer than 10 outlets, annual sales revenue less than $1 million per location.

            Established in 1934, Wine Institute is the association of more than 1,000 California wineries and wine-related businesses that initiate and advocate state, federal and international public policy to enhance the environment for the responsible production, consumption and enjoyment of wine.  Wine Institute members represent 85 percent of U.S. wine production and 90 percent of U.S. wine exports.

The California Association of Winegrape Growers (CAWG) was founded in 1974 with the mission to provide industry leadership to advocate public policies, research and education programs and trade positions that enhance the business of growing California winegrapes.  CAWG’s membership represents the growers of approximately 60 percent of California’s total annual grape crush.

            Join us in celebrating California Wine Month in September 2009.

Tags:, ,
Posted in Press Reviews, Viticultural Salmagundi | Leave a Comment »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 81 other followers