Archive for July, 2009

Brand-New Feature! The Official Ridge-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire!

July 9, 2009

I’m very excited to be launching a new feature here on 4488: A Ridge Blog. I call it

“The Official Ridge-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire”

and today is the day we debut the first installment!

(Before doing so however, I need to credit my good friend Lenn Thompson, esteemed wineblogger extraordinaire and host of the site Lenndevours.com; it was a similar feature on his site that inspired me to launch this.)

And now, on with the show!

The idea here is that I’ve drawn up a set of 20 questions that I’ll be posing to members of the Ridge staff, with the goal of posting a different person’s answers each week. I’m already enjoying reading some early responses tremendously, and I hope you’ll experience the same; I think it’s a really fun and fascinating way to find out a bit more about the people here, and the answers I’ve seen to date truly form an inspired encapsulation of the passions that drive these wine lovers to bring their individual talents to the collective RIDGE table.

Anyhow, I’m proud to debut the feature with a gentleman I consider it an honor to work beside. His name is Michael Riese, and he’s been affiliated in one fashion or another with Ridge Vineyards for over 30 years. Although he currently only works part-time in the Monte Bello Tasting Room, his every appearance on the mountain is a valued opportunity for myself and all the staff members to steep themselves in a little more Ridge history; I learn something new every time. So that said, I give you the debut of The Official Ridge-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire, featuring Michael Riese!

The Official Ridge-ite 20 Questions Questionnaire

 

1. Can you briefly describe the first time you remember “consciously” drinking a bottle of wine (meaning, you were aware of what you were tasting, and to what extent you were enjoying it)?

Age 7 (I’m not kidding!).  My father slipped me a jelly glass of Buena Vista Cab.  It took a bit of getting used to, but obviously it made a lasting impression.

2. Who first “turned you on” to drinking good wine?

College friend (and one-time Ridge employee).

3. Do you remember the first time you tried a wine from Ridge? (What was it, where did you try it, etc.)

Per # 2, at the winery in the spring of 1970.  Had Riesling drawn from a carboy and a few zins, including ’68 Lodi.

4. When did you first realize you had an interest in wine that went beyond that of the “casual” consumer?

Late sixties.  By mid-seventies, I was working at Ridge and making wine at home.

5. What was your first job “in the industry?”

Am I being repetitive?  Ridge, of course.

6. When did you first join Ridge, and what led you here?

See nos. 1 – 5.

7. If you had to pick, is there one Ridge wine that you prefer above all others?

Year – over – year, I think I’d have to pick Geyserville.

8. Do you have a favorite food and wine pairing?

Nope.  Good wine makes any good food better.

9. If you could have any Ridge wine, served with any meal, cooked by any chef, with any companion, anywhere in the world, what would you select?

Gotta confess one of my favorite meals / locales is the Bracebridge Dinner at The Ahwanee in Yosemite.  There certainly is better food to be had, but the combination of place, season, dining companions (a dear friend of mine and another couple we’ve come to know well) and an older Monte Bello – ’96 has been the recent pick, but I’m down to my last two bottles, so I’ll have to move on soon – and a couple of zins and / or syrahs is most satisfying.  Ask me that question if I ever get to Europe again and fulfill my fantasy of sailing down the Canal du Midi and hitting the local eateries.

10. Is there a common “myth” or “belief” or supposed “truism” in the world of wine that you’d like to take the opportunity to debunk? (white wines only with fish, wine is made in the winery, alcohol levels in California are too high, the 100-pt wine rating scale is obsolete, etc.)

I’d like people to understand a little better when higher sugars at picking are desirable and when they detract from the finished wine.  For that matter, I would simply like those who make such global statements about wines as those you’ve chosen as examples to challenge these notions and themselves by being open to broader experience.  As to the 100 – point rating system, I don’t think it’s especially meaningful, but it drives sales of wines and wine publications and I don’t especially want to tilt that windmill.

11. Outside of California, what is your wine region of choice?

The Medoc.

12. When you’re not drinking wine, what is your beverage of choice?

 Rum.

13. If you could have any other job in the food/wine industry than the one you have now, what would it be?

 If I were younger, I’d go back to school and get my degree and work in production.

14. Wine & Cheese, or Wine & Chocolate?

 Yes.

15. What has been the best wine experience to date in your life? (Where were you, who were you with, what did you drink, etc.)

 1977, 30th birthday, ’47 Chateau Cheval Blanc shared with five friends of the same age.

16. What’s the funniest thing you’ve ever seen happen in a wine tasting room?

Not exactly side – splitting, but I will never forget the taster who wanted to know what that Whitten Ranch cardigan was all about.

17. What do you consider to be the five most important items in your fridge right now?

Chardonnay, scallions, capers, a few wedges of cheese, eggs.

18. If you could offer one piece of advice to someone who is interested in getting a job in the wine industry, what would it be?

Be prepared to put in your time doing the not-so-romantic grunt work, no matter where you want to go in the end.

19. How do you feel about the “aroma wheel”?

It’s interesting and it does start people thinking about what they associate with certain aromas.

20. What’s the desktop photo on your computer?

A spot along the Tuolumne River following the trail down into the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, accessible only on foot.

 

Thank you Michael!

Matchmaker, Matchmaker: Pairing Food with Monte Bello

July 9, 2009

The Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello inspires a lot of things, and per some research I did online today, one thing it certainly seems to inspire is inspired food pairings! Take a look at just a few of the items I came up with:

From our friends over at Vinography.com, I found Monte Bello paired with “Cocoa and spice slow roasted pork with onions” …

… and at Snooth I found three suggestions: “Pork Tenderloin with Rhubarb-Currant Chutney, Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Fresh Peach and Ginger Sauce, and Mixed-Herb Pasta with Red Bell Peppers and Feta.”

Hungry yet? Try these:

Over with the oeno-legends at Gang of Pour, I found this humdinger of a pairing: “Roast Rack of Lamb (French cut with herb crust of rosemary, marjoram , parsley, sea salt and pepper), Roasted Broccoli Florets with Toasted Breadcrumb Gremolata, Potato Gratin with Goat Cheese and Garlic and Zingerman’s Sourdough Bread with Compound Herb Butter.”

Outstanding!

At Eric Asimov’s The PourI found Monte Bello very favorably paired with “Roasted leg of lamb and green beans with grilled persimmons.”

And at Wine Spectator, Monte Bello got a “best with dish” ranking for successfully pairing with “Sweetbread Ravioli w/ wild mushroom and truffle foam.”

 Fiona Becket, on her fine blog “Matching Food and Wine”suggests Monte Bello with “Bone-in sirloin served blue.”

Wow.

And from a special tasting hosted by a restaurant named Enoteca Vin, in Raleigh, NC (which, sadly, I understand closed earlier this year, despite a wealth of rave reviews) I found this dish paired with the MB: “Braised Waygu short ribs with lentils and shallots.”

And in an article in the Sacramento Bee about sommelier Joe Vaccaro (Ella Dining Room & Bar) I found him recommending “Braised oxtail, or mushroom ravioli.”

So, can you see where I’m heading? SEND ME YOUR FAVORITE MONTE BELLO PAIRINGS! And in the meantime, I need to go eat. I’m starving.

RIDGE In The Round: The RIDGE Round Table Reviews The New 2007 Buchignani Ranch Carignane!

July 6, 2009

So, it’s time for another edition of RIDGE In The Round, and in keeping with my currently obsessive focus on Carignane, the RIDGE Round Table reviews the new 2007 RIDGE Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Carignane, which was the ATP Wine Program release for June. My compatriots for this tasting were Zani Nesvacil, Sam Howles-Banerji, Karen Cai, and Darren Gardner.

Before I commence with a round-up of our Round Table, I want to pass on a link to some backround information on the new Carignane. You can click here to read Winemaker John Olney’s notes.

Ok, on to the show!

Right out of the gate, everyone got very excited by the stunningly complex color of this wine. Oddly enough perhaps, one taster described it as being “light ruby in color” while another deemed it “crimson; deep & rich,” clearly indicating the degree of hue complexity this wine offers in  the glass. Still another described it as “blackberry purple,” and another as “ruby red with a hint of purple/blue.” Personally, I took a slightly different approach, describing it as being roughly the same shade as the stains on one’s fingers after going blackberry picking in Maine. But that’s just me … Mainly, it was really impressive to see this range of characterization regarding color; that’s not usually a realm of much debate! In addition to discussions of color two tasters commented on the relatively slender and rapidly-moving legs, which seemed to bespeak a reasonably less-than-weighty mouthfeel, which indeed proved to be the case.

Aromatics proved to be a very interesting set of discussions. Everybody got on the berry train, but there wasn’t a lot of agreement about just what sort of berry notes we were experiencing. Some felt a blackberry character, which I was in agreement with, though others got stronger notes of blueberry, which I didn’t so much experience. One taster chimed in with dried cranberry, and while no one else had noted that originally, all immediately agreed there was a strong showing of this in the bouquet. There was general agreement on a certain sweetness to the aromatics as well, probably most unifiedly described as a lightly oak-derived waft of caramel; interesting, given that the wine was only in barrel for 12 months, and with only 10% of those barrels being new oak. But it was there! I personally felt there was a certain herbality to the nose, almost but not quite eucalyptal, more of a grassier character, not dissimilar from chamomile tea leaves. I also got a tremendous amount of cherry strains, though apparently more so than the rest of the gang did. Two tasters felt there was some smoke to the aromatics, but only in minute strains. With that last disclaimer in place, I was inclined to agree, but only slightly!

Front-palate invited a near-universal response; what acidity! Tip of  the tongue, sides of the tongue, back of the tongue, inside the cheeks, on the roof of the mouth; we were all pretty much salivating right away; this wine redefines mouth-watering! In a good way certainly, which a slew of food pairing suggestions coming up immediately: lamb chops, traditional autumnal turkey and stuffing, grilled chicken, herbed alfredo sauce pasta, baked brie, grilled bacon-wrapped apples, etc. Color-as-metaphor-wise, the references were all red all the time: red plum, red raspberry, red cherry, red, red, red (but no strawberries!). Probably the most interesting facet, as we moved into the mid-palate discussions, was the interfacing of some unexpectedly sweet fruit notes juxtaposed up against the more expected tart characteristics (notably, some ever-so-slightly tart yellow plum flesh strains). One taster made the rather spot-on notation of dusty bay leaves, which all were pleased to discover upon having been alerted … The sweet/tart balance probably found its most effective reference in the yellow-flesh plum, in that the wine seemed to both evidence qualities of sweet plum skin and tart plum flesh …

To the collective RIDGE In The Round palate, the finish showed two key characteristics; a certain warmth (not alcohol heat, mind you, just warmth), and intensely mouth-watering tannins across the back of the tongue/taste buds; again, we were all salivating!

Overall, everyone appeared very positive about this wine, finding it to be both a classically lean, acidity-driven carignane with an unexpectedly supple mid-palate, and a surprisingly buoyant fruit offering; it’s every so slightly tart in a perfectly culinary companion sort of way, it’s bright with loads of red fruits, it’s mouth-watering and saliva-inducing, it’s warm but not hot, and its exceptionally approachable, particularly given that it’s a 100% solo varietal carignane.

Which is all well and good, but the real key, according to one taster, is that this wine is a “baby making wine!” Or, as the significant other of said taster has apparently put it, it’s “liquid excellence!”

The Red Wine Haiku Review …

July 2, 2009

I’ve just stumbled on a great blog, and I just have to share it. It’s called The Red Wine Haiku Review, and it’s a site where all the posted wine reviews are done in Haiku form! I absolutely love it!

There are over 300 reviews on the site, but I couldn’t find one of a Ridge wine, so I implore you, our dear readers, if you would, please, if it’s ever possible, review our wines in Haiku and post to this site! I mean really, I just love this idea, and I’d LOVE to see a Ridge review in Haiku …

Anyhow, you can find the site here: http://redwinehaiku.blogspot.com/

Integrated Pest Management at Ridge Vineyards, The Movie!

July 2, 2009

Here’s a few questions for you:

-Have you ever wondered what Integrated Pest Management is?

-Have you ever thought about Agro-Oenology?

-Have you ever wondered what mealybugs and the band Survivor have in common?

-Can you spell Cryptolaemus Montrouzieri, and did you know they ship by mail?

-Do you know what a “Viticulturist” actually does?

I have a tremendously fascinating video I’d like to share with you. Caleb Mosely, our viticulturist here at Monte Bello, has been very involved in something called “Integrated Pest Management,” which is, per the website of the Environmental Protection Agency, “an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices. IPM programs use current, comprehensive information on the life cycles of pests and their interaction with the environment. This information, in combination with available pest control methods, is used to manage pest damage by the most economical means, and with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment.”

For our purposes here at Ridge, Integrated Pest Management is yet one more way of trying to harmonize with our land and environment in the service of sustainable, ecologically-sensitive viticultural production; I personally think this is truly one of the most fascinating things we’re currently engaged in, and I’ve been tremendously impressed with Caleb’s dedication to, and knowledge about, these philosophies and methodologies. I encourage you to watch the video, it’s phenomenal! You can see it here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iRS17G4sCc

 

More Ancient Chinese Wine Poetry

July 1, 2009

As you may have noticed from a previous post (to be found here), I very much enjoy reading ancient Chinese and Japanese poetry, and I’m especially fond of the role wine often plays in these works. Accordingly, I’ve got a few more oeno-poetic items to peruse …

The first poem I want to look at is by the great Sung Dynasty poet Su Tung p’o, who lived from 1037 to 1101.

SuTungPo

Not only is this a stunningly beautiful poem, with a stunning wine image in its volta, it is also an excellent occasion to showcase just how much translation can affect our experience of a poem. Accordingly, I’ll excerpt from two different translations, one by Kenneth Rexroth and one by David Hinton. First, the Rexroth translation (in whose hands the poem in entitled “The Red Cliff”), with the excerpt below being the closing few lines of the poem:

Let people
Laugh at my prematurely
Grey hair. My answer is
A wine cup, full of the
Moon drowned in the River.

And now, the David Hinton translation, who titles the poem “At Red Cliffs, Thinking Of Ancient Times.” And again, the closing lines:

Surely spirits of that ancient time
roam here, smiling at all these feelings
and my hair already turning white.
Our life’s like dream,
so pour out the whole cup, offering to a river and its moon.

Wow! What a difference, eh? Both renditions are stunning to me, but so, so very different. For my purposes here though, what’s most important is the image of the wine cup; it’s utterly indispensable to the potency of the volta in both translations.

Here is another beautiful poem, with wine a little more incidental, but still vital. (The poet is Lu Yu, a late Sung Dynasty poet).

LuYu

I will admit that, despite the comparatively limited role wine plays here, I really wanted to include this poem because it has such a fantastic, and fantastically long, title:

“7th Moon, 29th Sun, Yi Year of the Ox: I had a Dream Last Night in Which I Met a Stately Man, and at First Sight We Were Like Old Friends. He Had Written Pages of Lovely Poems Long Ago, All Perfectly Pure and Simple. I Started Reading Through Them, but Woke Before I Could Finish. To Record What Happened, I’ve Written This in Long Lines”

Whew! Anyhow, the poem (in a Hinton translation):

This traveler is an instant friend, utterly clear and true:
even before we dip out wine, we share kindred thoughts.

The pillow is cold, but I don’t understand it’s all a dream
in the clear night. I just savor that vision of an old sage.

Star River tipped, Dipper sunk, ancient histories empty,
mist scatters and clouds leave. Our two bodies are mirage,

and mind is perfectly clarity. It sees through this illusion.
Awake, you can’t avoid it: all things the same bittersweet.

 

Will someone please remind me to “dip out wine” the next time I have wine? I think we need to incorporate more ladels into the tasting experience …

 

Anyhow, one last poem, one I consider to be just an absolutely quintessential expression of the metaphysical, naturalistic, cosmologically integrated  joys of drinking wine. It’s a Rexroth translation of another work by Su Tung P’o, titled “Moon, Flowers, Man”:

I raise my cup and invite
The moon to come down from the
Sky. I hope she will accept
Me. I raise my cup and ask
The branches, heavy with flowers,
To drink with me. I wish them
Long life and promise never
To pick them. In company
With the moon and the flowers,
I get drunk, and none of us
Ever worries about good
Or bad. How many people
Can comprehend our joy? I
Have wine and moon and flowers.
Who else do I want for drinking companions?

 

Just lovely.


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