Archive for July, 2009

The 1972 RIDGE Vineyards York Creek Petite Sirah, And A 37th Birthday

July 19, 2009

One of the most fascinating and excellent things about my job here is the opportunity to field stories from people who share their experiences with our wines. It never fails to amaze me the part RIDGE wines have played in people’s lives; we’ve been there for weddings, for anniversaries, for births, for funerals — from romantic getaways for lovers, to desperate and trying times for the lonely, RIDGE has found a deep an important place in people’s personal histories. I think it’s truly remarkable …

Anyhow, with that in mind, I wanted to take a quick opportunity to share a story and photo that came across my bow the other day. RIDGE was fortunate to be a part of a 37th birthday celebration recently, in the form of our 1972 RIDGE Vineyards York Creek Petite Sirah, and I’m happy to say that the birthday honoree found the wine to be “surprisingly excellent,” and showing “wonderful character.” Fantastic! And here’s the wine in question:

72PYC1

 

Happy Birthday to you sir, and thank you for allowing us to be part of your celebration!

 

p.s. As a point of cultural reference, do you know what the top-selling album of 1972 was? “Harvest” by Neil Young!

315yDbByD5L_SS500_

1 Wine Dude, Anthony Dias Blue, And Yours Truly, A Happy Wine Blogger!

July 19, 2009

Wow. I read quite a post over on 1 Wine Dude  today. Joe Roberts, host of 1 wine Dude (a great blog, if you’ve not yet visited) writes about wine writer Anthony Dias Blue (described on his own website  as “one of the most influential wine, food and lifestyle personalities in the United States”) and his apparent recent verbal “attack” on wine bloggers. In the July 2009 issue of Tasting Panel in a piece titled “…And Who Regulates the Bloggers?” Mr. Blue apparently wrote the following:

“And who are these bloggers anyway and, more important, what is their motivation? It would be comforting to find that they are altruistic wine lovers who see their purpose as bringing insight and valuable information to like-minded consumers. But the image that presents itself is of bitter, carping gadflies who, as they stare into their computer screens and contemplate their dreary day jobs, let their resentment and sense of personal failure take shape as vicious attacks on the established critical media.”

Wow.

Well, I’ll leave it to you, the readers, to visit both Joe’s site, the article in Tasting Panel, and perhaps even Anthony Dias Blue’s site, to draw your own conclusions, but personally, I’d just like to note a couple things, beginning with the fact that to date I’ve never had reason to feel particularly one way or the other about Mr. Blue, other than that in the past I’ve fundamentally noted and appreciated his endeavors on behalf of wine lovers everywhere via his writings, his appearances, and his being the Executive Director of the San Francisco International Wine Competition. As regards the quote above, however, I’d like to note the following:

My day job is pretty darn fine! I taste Ridge wines for a living! I talk about Ridge wines for a living! I share Ridge wines with other people for a living! And yes, I post blogs about Ridge wines as part of my work here! So I guess, to answer Mr. Blue’s question (…and who are these bloggers anyway?…), that’s who this wine blogger is!

Another Passport Come & Gone!

July 19, 2009

Yesterday was Passport Saturday up here on the mountain (a remarkable promotion put on by the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association), and I have to say, despite the intense crowds and the draining heat, it was quite a fine day! We had a great flight on, a hard-working and enthusiastic staff, and some very dedicatedwine tasters. Our Syrah II Lytton Estate was the big-seller for the day, and the fact that it’s showing so beautifully right now is quite well-timed indeed, as we’re about to offer a very good special on this and another wine next month (stay tuned for more details!)

Anyhow, just wanted to drop a quick line to say thanks to all our Passport visitors; on behalf of all of us here at RIDGE, we hope you enjoyed your visit!

My Anniversary At RIDGE!

July 17, 2009

I apologize in advance, but I believe I’m going to be a bit self-focused over the course of this particular post. Why? Because today is the day I celebrate the anniversary of my arrival at RIDGE! July 17th. The day I signed my Employment Offer. Quite a day for me, to say the least. It was the culmination of what was truly one of the more difficult journeys of my life.

For example, my very first interview with Nicole Buttitta, the Vice President of Human Resources at RIDGE, took place at some strange truck stop somewhere in the wilds of Illinois!

Why? Because I was in the middle of a 3001-mile solo truck journey across the great expanse of America, from Long Island, NY to Davis, CA, to rejoin Amy, who at the time was my pregnant fiancee (being now my wife and the mother of our daughter!). Needless to say, I was in a hurry …

Anyhow, I’d like to share a strange little record of that particular day, which comes from what is now the manuscript of a book I am working on. It’s a book-length sectional narrative poem chronicling my cross-country drive. What follows is the Preface from the manuscript, which will hopefully do a better job of explaining exactly what I’m talking about:

“This book-length sectional poem chronicles a 3001-mile truck journey from Port Jefferson, New York to Davis, California that I undertook to rejoin my pregnant fiancée who’d flown ahead two weeks before. After 13 years of living all across this vast country, we were finally returning to our promised land of Northern California, to raise a child conceived in one of the most trying of all our many ports of call; the north shore of Long Island, a strange finger of land off the East Coast of America. On the drive I kept with me a digital voice recorder into which I entered a continual stream of spontaneous aural poetry as I tried to capture my thoughts, observations, and descriptions during the long and lonesome journey. The poem is comprised of 96 sections, each of which is essentially a loose transcription of each entry into the recorder.”

So that’s what the book is, a somewhat more structured transcription of everything going through my mind as I struggled though that trip. And in thinking about my anniversary today, it occurred to me that Ridge, and my first interview with Nicole, makes a brief cameo in the poem. I’ve included this section below, and in order to give some context, I’ve also included a few sections before and after as well. (more…)

A Fine Repast, Top Class In The Glass With A Nod To The Past, And An Excellent Cast!

July 16, 2009

These are the moments I live for; at table with my beautiful wife and my wonderful parents, before an unimaginably fine spread of food, and a bottle of 1997 Monte Bello gently decanting. Truly magical, heart-warming, and soulful. Let’s begin with the decant, shall we?

Tasting notes should rightfully follow I suppose, but Tasting Notes seem so, I don’t know, base at a time like this! I think I’d rather just describe the food, and let the wine be experienced by proxy.

So, to begin with, we must discuss Haig’s.  Haig’s Delicatessen. I first discovered this most holy of pilgrimage destinations when I lived in the Richmond District some 17 years ago. It was just a tiny, almost innocuous Middle Eastern deli in the Middle Richmond, near Green Apple Books, where one could obtain, for a laughably small amount of tender, truly the finest falafel and hummus sandwich on the face of our earth. Haig’s Hummus! They shouldn’t even call it hummus. Or all other hummus should be re-named. The two substances just bear no resemblance to one another. Haig’s is just that much better. Back then, you could only get it at the deli. Now, Whole Foods has it, Staff of Life has it, New Leaf has it. Fortunately, there’s been no sacrifice in quality, though the packaging is a little more mainstream now. Anyhow, from Haig’s we had the following:

-Falafel with tahini sauce
-Muhamarra (a blend of pomegranates and roasted red peppers mixed with ground walnuts and spices)
-Roasted Red Pepper Hummus & Original Hummus

We also had a remarkable array of olives:

-mixed olives marinated in cracked blood orange
-kalamata olives
-mixed late harvest olives
-picholine olives

As well as smoked jalapeno sauerkraut from Farmhouse Culture.

From Nugget in Davis, we had both basil pesto and sun-dried tomato pesto, as well as locally-grown organic green grapes, plums, romaine lettuce, and baby carrots. In addition, we had organic avocado slices spritzed with fresh lemon, and diced English cucumber.

Ah, and then the cheese. Such cheese! We had the following:

-Red Dragon (welsh mustard and ale cheddar)
-Purple Haze (chevre with lavender and fennel pollen from Cypress Grove)
-Midnight Moon (also from Cypress Grove)
-Mike’s Farmouse Cheddar (with habenero and jalapeno peppers)
-Smoked Gouda
-Parmiggiano
and the classic, Tillamook Sharp Cheddar!

For the grains portion of the fest, we had sweet baguettes from Acme Bread, and chips from Food Should Taste Good, (who more than live up to their company name with both their Olive Chips and their Jalapeno chips). It all looked a little something like this:

I won’t soon forget this meal. I loved every minute of it! And what joy to test each and every pairing with the 97 Monte Bello. From Tillamook and Muhamarra on sweet baguette, to smoked sauerkraut and avocado wrapped in romaine; from an olive chip dipped in roasted red pepper hummus to a cracked blood orange olive, it was all so beautiful. And what a wine! Unimaginable complexities! Every pairing a re-education for the palate!

I can’t urge you all enough to contact loved ones and arrange a night together, with delicious food, and fine wine. As with what happened to The Grinch, your heart will grow three sizes that day. I promise.

The Official RIDGE-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire, #2!

July 14, 2009

It seems proper to me that I should continue our new feature with responses from the individual I probably work most closely with here at RIDGE, both literally and figuratively, Sara Teeter. She is our Hospitality Representative, and not only do she and I work together on all matters related to guests visiting RIDGE Monte Bello, but we share an office together! I first met Sara when she applied for a part-time position in our tasting room; she was the first person I interviewed, and I knew from the first minutes that she’d be perfect. I also suspected, and in the end was proven right, that her connection to RIDGE would go far beyond the weekends, and far beyond the tasting room. Sara and her husband Ryan, a winemaker who is based at Lavender Ridge, and who with Sara has his own label Bonfire Vineyards, are consummate foodies who love fine wine and imaginative foods (see #8 below!), and together they’ve brought a brillaint perspective to what we try and accomplish here at RIDGE as regards our visions for hospitality. It’s a real pleasure having her here, and it’s a real pleasure to present her answers to The Official RIDGE-Ite 20 Questions Questionnaire!

The Official Ridge-ite 20 Questions Questionnaire

1.    Can you briefly describe the first time you remember “consciously” drinking a bottle of wine (meaning, you were aware of what you were tasting, and to what extent you were enjoying it)?

I was 22 years old and on a tour at Opus One in Napa, and I can’t recall the vintage…

2. Who first “turned you on” to drinking good wine?

My husband Ryan is a wine maker, and early on he made it a goal to educate both of us about all of the wine regions in California before branching out to other countries.

3. Do you remember the first time you tried a wine from Ridge? (What was it, where did you try it, etc.)

Yes, a 1971 Cab… I want to say York creek? It was at a Z list after hours event, when we still had them on the knoll. I had just turned 21 and it was my first time wine tasting, ever. What a way to start. To my unsophisticated palette, at the time, I remember it just tasting downright old and musty.

4. When did you first realize you had an interest in wine that went beyond that of the “casual” consumer?

I suppose when Ryan began making it, seriously, and we had barrels of it in the garage.

5. What was your first job “in the industry?”

Working Sundays in the Tasting Room, here, at Monte Bello.

6. When did you first join Ridge, and what led you here?

I joined Ridge about 8 months ago, after deciding I wanted out of my Stanford Univ. job. I had been in Petroleum Engineering, and was starved for people who shared similar interests to me.

7. If you had to pick, is there one Ridge wine that you prefer above all others?

Oh my god, this is sooo tough! My favorite changes weekly, I suppose it would be the 1997 Geyserville.

8. Do you have a favorite food and wine pairing?

A Chardonnay with Asian pear slices, topped with a tiny smidge of crumbled blue cheese and sprinkled with ground cardamom, then broiled for a few minutes in the oven. Heaven!

9. If you could have any Ridge wine, served with any meal, cooked by any chef, with any companion, anywhere in the world, what would you select?

That ’97 Geyserville, with something in season and rustic, created by Jamie Oliver, with my husband on the terrace of the Hotel Splendido in Portofino Italy.

10. Is there a common “myth” or “belief” or supposed “truism” in the world of wine that you’d like to take the opportunity to debunk? (white wines only with fish, wine is made in the winery, alcohol levels in California are too high, the 100-pt wine rating scale is obsolete, etc.)

I really can’t stand it when I open a bottle of wine for a customer who has purchased it to picnic with outside, and they sniff the cork looking wildly contemplative. As if they are sniffing out the entire life span of the wine and calculating whether or not the vintage was decent or not. People, sniffing a cork means nothing! You can’t tell anything about a wine from the cork, except maybe if the cork appears to be rotted and the wine is corked.

11. Outside of California, what is your wine region of choice?

Penedes, Spain for my love of Cava.

12. When you’re not drinking wine, what is your beverage of choice?

I love coffee with almond milk or soy.

13. If you could have any other job in the wine industry then the one you have now, what would it be?

A Cheese Maker! Ok, so it’s not in the wine Industry, but I just know I’d be awesome at it.

14. Wine & Cheese, or Wine & Chocolate?

Cheese!

15. What has been the best wine experience to date in your life? (Where were you, who were you with, what did you drink, etc.)

We met a gentleman at Talbot in Carmel Valley who seemed to take an interest in us. Talbot is known for their magnificent aged Chardonnays. He was making a grand purchase of roughly six cases, each bottle starting at $100. He opened up three of the oldest vintages for us to sample and discuss with him. I distinctly remember a 1991 Chard that made me weak in the knees. We were absolutely stunned by his generosity and will never forget him.

16. What’s the funniest thing you’ve ever seen happen in a wine tasting room?

It’s more “the funniest thing I’ve ever heard”. I really can’t recount any of them here as they are highly inappropriate.

17. What do you consider to be the five most important items in your fridge right now?

Champagne, butter, soy sauce, lemons and Parmesan.

18. If you could offer one piece of advice to someone who is interested in getting a job in the wine industry, what would it be?

It’s not glamorous, I wash a lot of dishes. Most wineries are run on the bare minimum of staff, so you can end up being a lot of things to a lot of people, and you need to have innovating ideas to be successful.

19. How do you feel about the “aroma wheel”?

It helps. I wouldn’t mock anyone who uses it. Whatever helps you learn!

20. What’s the desktop photo on your computer?

My West Highland Terrier, Remy, taking a nap.

Thank you Sara!

A Carignane Confluence! -or- A Conversion Conversation! -or- Monroe On Carignane!

July 13, 2009

Amy Monroe is a serious and well-educated wine drinker. And in addition to being an esteemed member of the Ridge Monte Bello staff, she also writes a column on wine for the San Francisco Bay Guardian. AND, without any provocation from me (just a pure and true case of oeno-synchronicity) she very recently happened to write an article about a particular carignane! Not ours, mind you, but a very interesting one, in that, despite Amy Monroe’s previous and professed dislike of this particular varietal, she found it highly appealing! Accordingly, I thought it would be appropriate to make note of Amy’s journey towards the light. You can read the full article here, but just to whet the whistle of your interest, a sampling of rather colorful quotes:

“Carignane is the viticultural equivalent of Jon & Kate, the Duggars, and Octo Mom. Left to its own devices, it bears prodigious amounts of fruit.”

“Carignane lived up to its infamous reputation: I hated every one I tried. They all tasted like burnt rubber, and a single sip was often so acidic that I worried about the state of my tooth enamel.”

“…my formerly least favorite grape variety is quirkily appealing. Drinking it is a lot like eating a steak dinner and following it with strawberry shortcake for dessert. It’s an adept coupling of sanguine and sweet that’s deliciously familiar.”

And my personal favorite, “it doesn’t always suck.”

I encourage you to read her column; it’s a delightful, insightful, downright inviting combination of high-brow and low-down, just like we like it.

Monte Bello Voted Vineyard Of The Year!

July 11, 2009

All of us here at RIDGE are very proud that our Monte Bello Vineyard has been awarded Vineyard of the Year by The California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition, which is recognized as North America’s oldest wine competition. Paul Draper and Eric Baugher were on hand to receive the award, which is now proudly displayed in the Monte Bello Tasting Room.

For a full list of all the award recipients, click here.

1977 and 1988: Through The Eyes Of A Double-Barrel Bello …

July 10, 2009

Let me just give you a little context for this particular Monte Bello tasting.

In 1977, women dressed like this:

1977-pre-washed-denims

Men dressed like this:

1977_Men

We listened to this:

Led_Zeppelin_on_stage_1977

or this:

bee-gees

 

This man was president:

jimmy_carter_300px

And this man:

wine_advocate_logo-256x256

who would go on to practically single-handedly reinvent the rules for modern wine tasting, released the first issue of The Wine Advocate.

Fast forward to 1988:

250px-Plymouth_Reliant_Station_Wagon_lateSonny_Bonokidnplaydukakis-tank-717905cocktailAnd it was clear we were in a different era. For those of you to whom these images might be unfamiliar, by the way, that’s a Plymouth Reliant, which debuted in 1988, that’s Sonny Bono, who assumed the mayorship of Palm Springs in 1988, that’s Kid n’ Play, who hit the charts with “2Hype” in 1988, that’s Michael Dukakis, who ruined his bid for the presidency in 1988 by having himself photographed in this helmet, in this tank, and that’s  Tom Cruise, showing us how cool bartenders could be in “Cocktail,” which opened in 1988.

And just as different as these two eras were, that’s just how different these two vintages of Monte Bello taste today! The 1977 Monte Bello, as expected, will play to the palates of those who prefer austere, serious, mature wines; the sort of serious, mature wines that should be drunk by serious, mature individuals, in austere, serious settings, to the sounds of mature classical tones. Something like this perhaps:

masterpiecetheater

Just add wine. 1977 Monte Bello perhaps. With its appearance of orange-tinted garnet, its aromas of chocolate-covered raisins, fennel, dried embers (as in smoky, but not savory per se), dried fruit, and the unmistakable whiff of autumn leaves raked after a rain; with its fine, chalky, baby-powder-esque tannins and its terse acidity, its hints of Worcester sauce and apricot, and its warm, almost cognac-like chest-filling finish, this is a wine to be savored over canonical literature, by a fire, in a library full of leather-bound books that is heavy with the somberness of deep, dark rugs and low candle-light.

The 1988 Monte Bello, on the other hand, is a young person’s game, a spring person, a green-thumbed person; this is a wine for gardens and gazebos; picnics and rowboats; blankets in the grass and the twinkling eyes of couples contemplating love.  Don’t let the deep, dark plum appearance fool you, nor the firm legs and viscous glaze. Skip to the dried herb bouquet, the notes of quince and persimmon, the dried sweet cherries. And take a sip, then bask in the elegant and palate-coating mouthfeel, the subtle warmth, the supple tannins, the long and graceful length of the finish. Then lie back in your field, gaze up at the clouds, and find in them the lost shapes of childhood.

77_88_MBUnmasked

1977 and 1988. Those were the days, my friends.

Brie And Chianti: More Wine In Poetry!

July 10, 2009

A confluence of three occurrences called to mind a particular, and particularly beautiful, poem for me last night: 1) My conversation yesterday with our VP of HR Nicole Buttitta about favorite wine moments, 2) A recent dinner shared with my missus at Santa Cruz’s fine wine bar Soif, and 3) the Orchestral Suite #3 in D by Johann Sebastian Bach that I listened to on KDFC while driving the mountain home last night.

The poem in question is entitled “Brie And Chianti At Midnight,” and it was written by Robert Lavett Smith. The poem was included in his collection “Everything Moves With A Disfigured Grace” (Alsop Review), a book I highly, highly recommend. Here is the poem:

 

Brie And Chianti At Midnight

 

In a tiny hotel room in a city renowned

for its medieval bridges, we share quiet

caresses, Brie and Chianti at midnight.

 

We have learned silence on our

journey together, passing through

lands where our words were useless.

 

My eager hands navigate your face

in the darkness: an oddly joyous act,

like reading a Bach sonata in Braille. 

 

The moments in life we remember, that affect us so profoundly, the ones we carry with us through all our days; strange how often they involve food and wine, how tightly these sensuous and sensual components are sewn into the fabric of our personal narratives. There is life in food, life in wine, life in us all. Bless you Robert Lavett Smith, bless you poetry, for constantly reminding us of this.


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